Turkey: Bodrum to Marmaris, with walks



by Michael Bussmann, Gabriele Tröger, Brian and Eileen Anderson, Dean Livesley

I’ve previously used other Sunflower guides so made sure to get hold of this one when travelling to the small coastal town of Akyaya. Many guides to Turkey are insufficiently detailed because it's such a vast country, and even books devoted to specific areas have to cover a lot of ground. This guide was perfect for us, giving us ideas of things to do in Bodrum and what to see within a fairly easy journey time. The section on practicalities was especially helpful to us as first time visitors to Turkey, and the fold-out map was so much easier to use than conventional maps. (purplepadma, Amazon)

I used the whole series of Sunflower Turkish guides during my last year trip to Turkey, all are very informative and of special value to ‘walking’ travellers as they contain detailed maps and descriptions of the routes. (AG, Amazon)

I bought this book along with a 'Rough Guide' as we were visiting the Bodrum area for the first time. The Sunflower guide was by far more precise & superior. The walks were a good extra to have as well. We used the maps when driving around & were impressed with the candid view of the area. (Chris, Amazon)

Click below to read walker’s reviews and use the ‘Look Inside’ feature on Amazon.co.uk (RRP £14.99)


Or, purchase the complete book as a downloadable PDF using the Add to Basket button below (£12).

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Turkey BodrumThis guide book — the only general guide in English to cover this part of the Turkish coast in detail — is an ideal companion for motorists who want to tour the Bodrum and Marmaris peninsulas by car, as well as those planning a holiday walking in Turkey. The book combines the best features of our ‘Landscapes‘ walking and car touring guides with all the detail you would expect in a hefty general guide, but it is pocket size and in full colour. Coverage includes getting there and getting about; recommended accommodation, campsites and restaurants (all with prices); practicalities A-Z; history; 15 main walks with many variations, all with large-scale topo maps; fold-out area map; large-scale town plans showing locations of all sights, hotels and restaurants; plans of historical sites; and many ‘feature’ panels.

A Turkish poet once described the area between Bodrum and Marmaris as ‘terrifyingly’ beautiful. Silver-leaved olive groves and wild inland mountains yield up the stone remains of ancient civilisations. The dazzling multi-coloured bays, framed by fissured cliffs and collared with golden sand, are the stuff of dreams. This is one of a trilogy of ‘Complete’ guides to the Turkish Coast; moving east, they explore first the area between Dalyan and Kas and then Demre and Antalya. All the authors have been visiting Turkey for many years, writing general and walking guides.

Area covered: Focussing on Bodrum and the Bodrum Peninsula, this book travels round the Gulf of Gokova to Marmaris and the Resadiye and Bozburun peninsulas. Also included are full details of excursions to Pamukkale/Hierapolis, Aphrodisias and Ephesus.

Many correspondents tell us their knowledge of the geography of Turkey is very limited and want to know which resorts are covered in each of our guides. Here is a simple map showing the locations of the principal towns within the three regions covered by our Turkish Coast titles.

map of Turkey

To check if a specific resort is included in one of the books, check the book’s contents or index on Amazon’s ‘Look Inside’. If you are unsure of the locations of smaller resorts in relation to the areas covered in our guide books, please refer to the maps appearing in tour operators’ brochures.

The best months for walking in Turkey around Bodrum and Marmaris are April, May, September and October

Where to stay

For ease of access to bus services, stay in or near one of the towns shown on the map below. If you are hiring a car, choose any resort near the main coastal road.

map of Turkey

Edition/contents etc

184 pages + touring map and area map of the Bodrum Peninsula
Town plans: Bodrum, Marmaris, Datça
Site plans: Knidos, Pamukkale/Hierapolis, Aphrodisias, Ephesus
20 walks, each illustrated with large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
3rd ed, 2012; ISBN 978-1-85691-403-1; UK retail price £14.99 / USA retail price $19.99

Table of contents:

IMPORTANT: Place names in Turkey often contain characters with accents, which are not included in western European fonts. Accented characters such as these often appear incorrectly when viewed on the web and if used may be replaced by unrecognizable symbols when viewed on a different computer. Accented characters in the place names shown here have therefore been replaced by characters without accents. However, in the book, the appropriate font has been used to ensure that all place names appear with the correct accents.

Preface 5

Publisher’s note 6

Turkey in facts and figures 8

Introduction 10

When to go 10
Getting to Bodrum and Marmaris 10
By air 10
By car 11
By train 12
Getting around Bodrum and Marmaris 12
By car or motorcycle 12
By bus 14
By Fez Bus 15
By dolmus, taxi 16
By train, ferry, chartered boat, organised tour; ‘Blue cruises’ 17
By bicycle, hitchhiking 18
Walking 19
Accommodation 22
Food and drink 25
Practicalities A-Z 31
Ancient sites – the most important terms, Beaches 31
Books for background reading, Chemists, Children,
Climate and weather 32
Consulates/embassies, Crime, Currency 33
Dress, Electricity 34
Festivals and holidays, Flora and fauna 35
Gays and lesbians, Greeks and Turks, Import and export 36
Information about Turkey, Inoculations, Internet access,
Invitations 37
Islam 38
Medical care, Music and belly dance 42
Newspapers and magazines 43
Opening times, Police, Post offices, Prices 44
Shopping and bargaining 45
Sites and museums 46
Sport and leisure 47
Telephone 48
Time, Toilets 49
Travel documents, Turkish 50
Women 53

History 54

Town plan 64-65

Gumbet 74
Bitez; area map of Bodrum Peninsula 75
Ortakent and Yahsi, Kargikoyu/Kargi Plaji, Akyarlar 76
Turgutreis 77
Gumusluk 78
Yalikavak 79
Gundogan, Turkbuku 80
Golkoy, Torba 81
Walk 1: From Akcaalan to Akyarlar 82
Walk 2: Karakaya circuit from Gumusluk inland village 85
Walk 3: Yalikavak · Sandima · Geris · Yalikavak 87
Walk 4: Yalikavak · Sandima · Yaka · Ortakent 91
Walk 5: Copyolu · Sandima · (Geris) · Yaka · Ortakent 93
Walk 6: From Dagbelen to the Bitez road 95
Walk 7: From Gundogan to Dagbelen 97
Walk 8: Ortakent · Yaka · Derekoy 99
Walk 9: Konacik · Pedesa · Bodrum 101
Walk 10: Bodrum · Pedesa · Bodrum 103

The bays of Ciftlikkoy, The bays of Mazikoy 105
Cokertme 106
Oren 107
Akyaka 108
Sedir Adasi 109
Karacasogut Bay 110

Walk 11: Cetibeli · Camli · Cetibeli 111
Walk 12: Cetibeli · Gulf of Gokova · Cetibeli 113
Walk 13: From Akcapinar to Gokce 116

Town plan 120-121
Walk 14: Beldibi circuit 129
Walk 15: From Armutalan to Siteler 131
Walk 16: From Armutalan to Beldibi or Marmaris 134

Icmeler 136
Turunc 137
Amos and Kumlubuku Bay, Bozburun Peninsula 139
Walk 17: Marmaris to Icmeler promenade 143
Walk 18: From Icmeler to Turunc 144
Walk 19: From Turunc to Icmeler 147

Between Marmaris and Datca 149
Datca 150
Town plan 152
Bays around Datca 155
Knidos (with site plan) 157
Walk 20: Datca · Kargi · Armutlu · Datca 161

(with site plan)163
8 EXCURSION TO APHRODISIAS (with site plan)170
9 EXCURSION TO EPHESUS (with site plan)175
Index 183
Fold-out area map inside back cover

Guidebook index

IMPORTANT: Place names in Turkey often contain characters with accents, which are not included in western European fonts. Accented characters such as these often appear incorrectly when viewed on the web and if used may be replaced by unrecognizable symbols when viewed on a different computer. Accented characters in the place names shown here have therefore been replaced by characters without accents. However, in the book, the appropriate font has been used to ensure that all place names appear with the correct accents.

Akcaalan 82, 83, 84
Akcapinar 116, 117, 117
Akyaka 108
Akyarlar 75, 76, 82, 83, 84
Amos 139
Aphrodisias 6, 18, 29, 170, 172-4
plan 171
Arkutca 128-129, 131
Armutalan 128-129, 131, 132, 134
Armutlu (Bay) 153, 161, 162

Bagla 75, 76
Beldibi 128-129, 134, 135
Bitez 75, 95, 96, 97
Bodrum 5, 10, 24, 26, 61-73, 63, 71
town plan 64-65
walks 101-104, 103
Bodrum Peninsula 74-81, 75
walks 82-104
Bozburun Peninsula 136-148, 139

Camel Beach (also known as Kargikoyu or Kargi Plaji) 32, 75, 76
Camli 111, 112, 113
Cetibeli 111, 112, 113, 115
Ciftlik Bay 125, 141
Ciftlikkoy, bays 105
Cop Yolu 88-89, 93
Cokertme 106

Dagbelen 75, 88-89, 95, 97, 98
Dalaman Airport 10, 118
Datca 20, 149-162, 151, 161
town plan 152
walk 161
Derekoy 75, 88-89, 99, 100

Ephesus 6, 55, 175-182, 176
plan 178 Eski Datca 150

Geris 75, 87, 88-89, 90, 93, 94
Gokce 116, 117
Gokova, Gulf of 5, 105-110
walks 111-117, 113, 114
Golkoy 75, 81
Gumbet 74, 75, 103
Gumusluk 75, 78, 85, 86
Gundogan 75, 80, 96, 97, 98
Gunnucek Milli Parklar 48, 128-129

Halicarnassus 64-65, 69
Hayitbuku Bay 155
Hierapolis 163, 168, 169
plan 167
Hisaronu Bay 142

Icmeler 125, 136, 137, 143, 144, 146, 147
Inceyali Bay 106

Karabag 75, 82, 83
Karacasogut Bay 110
Karaincir 75, 76
Karakaya 75, 85, 86
Kargi 153, 161
Kargikoyu (Kargi Plaji, Camel Beach) 32, 75, 76
Kibrel 75, 95, 96, 97
Knidos 6, 149, 157, 160
plan 158-159
Konacik 75, 101, 102, 103
Kormen Limani 155
Kumlubuku Bay 139

Marmaris 5, 10, 23, 118-128, 122, 124, 137, 142, 148, 149
town plan 120-121
walks 120-121, 129-135, 128-9, 130, 134, 135, 143; see also Bozburun Peninsula
Mazikoy, bays 105
Milas-Bodrum Airport 10, 61
Myndos 75, 78

Oren 107
Orhaniye Bay 142
Ortakent 75, 76, 88-89, 91, 92, 93, 94, 97, 99
Ovabuku Bay 155

Palamutbuku 156
Pamukkale 6, 163, 164-165
plan 167
Pamukkale Koy 163, 164, 165
Pedesa 101, 102, 103, 104
Physcus 119, 128-129, 130

Resadiye Peninsula 6, 12, 149-162, 156

Sandima 75, 87, 88-89, 91, 93, 94
Sedir Adasi 109, 126
Selimiye Bay 141
Siteler (Marmaris) 128-129
Sogutkoy 140, 141

Torba 75, 81
Turgutkoy 141
Turgutreis 75, 77, 82, 83
Turkbuku 75, 80
Turunc 137, 144, 146, 147

Yahsi 75, 76
Yaka 75, 88-89, 91, 92, 93, 99, 100
Yalikavak 75, 79, 87, 88-89, 91, 92, 93

Current update

TURKISH COAST: BODRUM TO MARMARIS, 3rd edition (2012); updated 15/05/2013

Updates for walks and all general information given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

We regret a major error on the pull-out map, which shows the walking areas in the Kas to Dalyan guide rather than the Bodrum – Marmaris guide. Please use this link to download a pdf of the correct map for the Bodrum/Marmaris region.

Walk 2: I have just used the 3rd edition 2012 Sunflower guide for walking in the area. Near the start of the walk, the path contours around a hill between a white pump house and the Karakaya road. They are erecting a building to the left above the path. To form the building foundations the bulldozers have pushed rocks and rubble down the hillside across the footpath. It is possible to scramble up this pile of rocks, but having a walking party with mixed abilities, I decided not to take the risk. Unfortunately because of this obstruction we could not complete the walk. Hope this helps towards re-establishing the route as the walk and views were excellent. (User, 5/13)

Walk 5: Unfortunately, we couldn’t get started on this walk. We duly walked down from Cop Yolu, found where the banking dipped and saw the track running up at about 45 degrees to the main road towards some houses (as shown on map). However, at this point there was a new concrete track with a manned barrier on it leading to some housing development. It may be that the walk can be accessed in some other way. (User, 10/11)

Walk 15, alternative suggestion: If you walk along the road from Marmaris towards Turunc, you pass the market place. At the exit from the market (Turunc side) there is an arch. Just on the opposite side of the road is a green iron gate and behind it an electricity sub-station. You cross a stream 4 times; after the 4th crossing you come to a fork. This route is the route of Walk 15 (the orman yolu). If you go left here, you can follow Walk 15 back to Armutalan or take the shorter route to Arkutca and catch a dolmus.If you go left, you can follow Walk 15 to Siteler or go via Seyir Terasi to Armutalan. If you continue, after about 30-35min from starting out you come to a fork: If you go right you come to the highest peak between Marmaris and Içmeler, some 600m high. The route is a very steep and stony fire-break, which climbs straight up and then straight down. On the downward slope it’s skiddy and needs care. After crossing about 5 peaks you come back to the route of Walk 15 some 600m south of the turn-off at the ‘Kampyeri’ signpost, and you can continue to Siteler. This is a beautiful but quite demanding walk for those based around Içmeler – only suitable for very fit walkers with boots, walking sticks and rucksacks. Nothing should be loose, since you have to go on all fours at times. (User, 2004) + After passing the fountain on ‘Sinan Cad’ the road is now tarmac-ed and developed, and we were unable to find a waymarked path/trail half a minute past a U bend by a dry steam bed. Looks like a house has been built by the U bend, and that the path might have been obliterated. Instead we chose to follow a clear track just after the fountain that made its way up the hill and eventually joined the forest track between Mamaris and Seyir Terasi (picnic spot on the alternative walk). Descending to the Siteler track (1h45 point on the main walk), we found an excellent (and only one discovered!) information board showing all the forest trails in the Amatulan Trekking area, and we chose to follow a track back to Icmeler. After a pleasant walk through the rural farming valleys we eventually met the Icmeler to Datca road, for a 5 km. walk back to Icemeler (or we could have caught one of the many passing taxis…) (User, 5/11)

Alternative route to the ridge beginning in Turunc village: This route is more convenient for those staying in Turunc, as you can reach the path just below the ridge directly from Turunc without having to go up the road to the Loryma Resort. However, the route is steeper and not waymarked with paint. The route begins at the small graveyard at the bottom of the pine woods, behind the beach at the north end of Turunc village. To find the graveyard, walk north along the main street in the center of Turunc, go past the Sen Apart hotel, and turn right onto 60 Evler Cd road, and continue for a couple of minutes past the Hotel Mavi Deniz. Go through the graveyard gates and up the steps to the back of the graveyard, then turn left and follow the broad track leading upwards which bends to the right and go past several new graves. Follow a dry stream bed upwards for around 200 meters, until you see a large rock and goat track on the right. The track is marked with a small cairn (although it cannot be guaranteed to still be there). Follow the goat track through the woods, dipping down to cross another small dry stream bed after several minutes, and follow the track (again, there are small cairns marking the way, but these may or may not still be there) as it begins to climb the side of the hill. After 10 – 15 minutes of fairly steep walking, you reach the main path from the Loryma Resort just below the ridge, where there are plenty of painted waymarks. Turn right on the main path to continue up to the ridge and beyond to Icmeler. (User, 9/10)