Walking and Eating around Nice


walk & eat around NICE

by John and Pat Underwood

Just discovered this gem of a book while on holiday in Cote d’Azur — this book was a revelation — it provided just what we wanted: walking routes around some of the most attractive coastal and inland locations near Nice. On top it gave some great tips about restaurants along these routes… Walk/Eat is a niche book; great format, easy to use, light to carry on walk, usable maps.! (CG, Amazon)

Sunflower have led the field for years with their brilliant Landscapes walking and car touring guides. Now they have raised their game even higher with a superb new Walk & Eat series. (Frank Barrett, Mail on Sunday)

Click below to read walker’s reviews and use the ‘Look Inside’ feature on Amazon.co.uk (RRP £8.99)


Or, purchase the complete book as a downloadable PDF using the Add to Basket button below (£7).


You might also like...


W&E Nice

This pocket-sized full-colour guide to walking in Nice and the Côte d’Azur is designed for short-break walking holidays using the excellent public transport services. Nice is easily and inexpensively reached by several budget airlines, and the climate makes for brilliant walking and excursions all year round. Even ‘non-walkers’ will appreciate the large-scale plan of Nice centre, descriptions of the sights, and recommendations for restaurants in Nice and places like Cap Ferrat, La Turbie, Menton, Théoule-sur-Mer. For each suggested restaurant there is a photograph of the décor and one of their dishes, sample menu, price guide, opening times, and a recipe for one of their specialities. Other sections include: planning your trip, logistics on arrival, local markets and specialities, glossary of local food terms, and a restaurant mini-vocabulary. A special feature is the emphasis on natural local foods suitable for those with food intolerances. All recipes have been made by the authors and are known to ‘work’.

For an extremely useful source of information about the city, click here: http://www.travelsavvy-europe.com/city-breaks/nice.html

Area covered: Besides Nice itself, the book describes walks and excursions in the most beautiful coastal and inland areas easily reached by public transport — from the Esterel in the west to Cap Martin in the east and from the coast north to the Alps.

The best months for walking in Nice and the Côte d’Azur are from mid-September until early June — high summer is far too hot.

Where to stay

Your choice of where to look for accommodation will be governed by several factors. For instance, if you intend to hire a car you will benefit from a much wider choice. On the other hand if you plan to rely on public transport, you will need to choose a centre offering good access to the walk routes or excursions you plan to do. There is also the factor of what type of accommodation you plan to use, for example whether you plan to stay in a hotel or in a self-catering apartment or villa. The author provides useful advice on the various options in the Where to Stay chapter which will be found in the introductory pages of the book.

Edition/contents etc

12 walks and 2 fairly long excursions — one by train and one by bus, with walks from each
144 pages + plan of Nice; area map; 1:35,000 topo maps for the countryside walks
5th ed, 2016; ISBN 978-1-85691-480-2; UK retail price £8.99 / USA retail price $15.00

Table of contents:

PLAN OF CENTRAL NICE inside front cover

the walks 5
the excursions 5
the restaurants 6
the recipes 6
planning your visit 7
when to go 7
where to stay 8
what to take 8
planning your walks 10
verifying timetables in advance 12
on arrival 15
city bus pass 15
tourist information 15
shopping for self-catering 16
markets 17

Walk 1 · on the rooftops of nice 20
restaurants: café de turin and rené socca in nice 26
recipes: socca and petits farcis (stuffed vegetables) 30

Walk 2 · mont chauve d’aspremont 32
restaurant: hostellerie d’aspremont 39
recipe: roast leg of lamb with juniper, garlic and rosemary 41

Walk 3 · peillon and peille 42
restaurant: auberge de la madone in peillon 48
recipe: christmas-day pheasant (in brandy cream sauce) 49

Walk 4 · around cap ferrat 50
restaurants: various around cap ferrat, le pot d’étain in nice 55
recipes: cassoulet, potato cake, chocolate cake 58

Walk 5 · to the esterel 62
restaurants: various in théoule, la mère besson in cannes 66
recipes: chicken with tarragon and cream, bourride (fish stew) 67

Walk 6 · la turbie and èze 70
restaurants: various in la turbie and èze 76
recipe: caramelized rabbit with lemon 78

Walk 7 · ste-agnès and castellar 80
restaurants: various in ste-agnès, monti, castellar, menton 85
recipe: menton lemon tarte 87

Walk 8 · cap martin 88
restaurants: roquebrune, le canne à sucre in nice 91
recipes: turbot or halibut, in wine or à la provençale 92

EXCURSION 1 · train des pignes 94

restaurants: various in entrevaux and annot 101
recipe: daube à la provençale (beef stew in red wine) 102
restaurant: caffé promenade in nice 103

Walk 9 · above puget-théniers 104
restaurants: various in puget-théniers 108
recipe: lamb stew with chestnuts 109

Walk 10 · grès d’annot 110
recipe: osso bucco nice-style 115

EXCURSION 2 · gorges du cians 116

Walk 11 · above beuil 120
restaurants: various in beuil 125
recipes: various chestnut recipes, blettes (chard) à la provençale 126

Walk 12 · cime de l’arpiha 128
restaurant: les trois vallées at the col de turini 132
recipe: venison steaks with blackberry sauce 133

EAT GF, DF 134
eating in restaurants 135
self-catering 136
gf, df shopping 137
gf, df cooking; conversion tables 138

GLOSSARY (menu items, shopping terms) 140
IN the restaurant (pocket vocabulary) inside back cover

Guidebook index

The following is the index of places; the book also contains an index of recipes (which is not shown here). Page numbers shown in bold are where photographs appear; those shown in italics are where maps appear.

Annot 96-97, 99, 110, 111, 112, 113
Grès d’Annot 110, 111, 112, 113
Aspremont 33, 34, 35, 38
Authion, L’ 128

Balcons de la Côte d’Azur 34, 63, 64-5, 65, 83
Beuil 116, 118, 120, 121, 122, 123

Cannes 63
Cap Ferrat 50, 52, 53, 55
Cap Martin 88, 89, 90
Castellar 80, 82, 83, 84
Cians Gorge 96-97, 99, 116, 117, 118, 119
Cime d’Arpiha 129, 131
Colline du Château, Nice 22, 23

Daluis Gorge 96-97, 99
Digne 96-97, 100

Entrevaux 96-97, 98, 99
Esterel, L’ 62, 64-65
Eze Village 70, 71, 72-73, 75
Eze-Bord-de-Mer 72-73

Grande Corniche 72-73

Menton 86, 88
Monaco 75
Mont Alban 21, 22, 23, 24
Mont Boron 21, 23, 24
Mont Chauve d’Aspremont 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38
Monti 83

Nice 9, 14, 20, 23, 27, 95
city plan inside front cover
map of hinterland 96-97

Peille 42, 44, 45, 46
Peillon 42, 43, 44, 48
Pointe de l’Aiguille 64-65
Pointe de St-Hospice 51, 52, 53
Puget-Théniers 94, 96-97, 99, 104, 105, 106, 107

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin 89, 90
Scaffarels, Les 113
St-Agnès 80, 81, 83
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat 51, 53, 54

Théoule-sur-Mer 63, 64-65, 66
Train des Pignes (Nice/Digne) 94, 95, 96-97
Trophée des Alpes 71, 72-73, 74
Turbie, La 71, 72-73, 74, 76, 77
Turini, Col de 129, 130, 131

Var River 32, 35, 96-97, 99, 118

Current update

NICE, 5th edition (2016); updated 20/05/2016

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

Walk 2 Mont Chauve d’Aspremont. NB we did the Alternative Walk – Aspremont Circuit which we thought was stunning. Fabulous flowers en route in May and fabulous views. It is worth pointing out that the Fort is a continiuing military establishment – you cannot enter – as we were politely told by an official at the summit….We found the tunnel mentioned on the return to Tourette to be closed (locked)  at the far end having already stumbled our way through. Ignoring the tunnel and continuing on the waymarked path towards Basse de Guingo brings you to the outside of the far end of the tunnel nevertheless… Waymarking  at Basse de Guingo for the return to Aspremont is missing – Need to stress to look for the wide grassy path leading downhill to the right of the one you have just arrived by… There now appear to be three restaurants in Aspremont village centre and a small, friendly  Relais – which offered welcome refreshments after the walk. (User, 5/16)

Walk 3 Peillon and Peille. At the start of the return from Peille village you could make it clearer that you zigzag down grassy footpaths to the last hairpin,  not the road itself. NB there is a red painted wooden ‘Peillon’ signpost, indicating the route to follow to the right, halfway down the zigzags which cuts off a fair number of the road hairpins. You can also follow orange painted arrows and XMB markings on the ground which indicate the paths to take… The path to follow  through the woods after crossing the stream is now quite clear  with apparently freshly painted thick yellow flash markings showing the way… We didn’t see the large boulder mentioned with red and yellow marks but didn’t need to as the route ahead seemed quite clear… The ‘second tall cairn’ at the ‘important junction’ no longer exists but the onward path is clearly marked  with a left handed upside down L flash clearly pointing to the left. Branches have also been laid blocking  the path straight ahead as a further indication to turn left… Again ‘2 minutes later at a Y-fork’ the right hand path is clearly marked with a yellow L flash and branches blocking the path in front… We didn’t notice the building mentioned at 2h 55 mins but arrived at ‘col and marker stone 128’ without problem… NB we thought both Peillon and Peille were more picturesque villages than Eze – which is very commercialised and touristy. (User, 5/16)

Walk 6 La Turbie and Eze (alternative La Turbie Circuit). The two tunnels and the path between them on the Corniche track just after the Maison de La Nature are both currently closed and this whole section blocked off due to maintenance work repairing the roof of the tunnels. The route to follow is sharp left at the first tunnel to the Table d’Orientation to follow the ‘sentier botanique’ in reverse. A good 20 minutes diversion but very pretty in its own right. (User, 5/16)