Walking and Eating in Rhodes


walk & eat RHODES

by Brian and Eileen Anderson

A good little book packed with useful information [on what to do in Rhodes]. If you want to get off the beaten track and see some real Rhodes, read this book. (RH, Amazon)

This is the second Walk & Eat guide I have purchased and, should a future trip take me to another location for which a guide has been written, it will not be the last. I did 6 [walks] and found them enjoyable and easy to follow. I also visited a number of the recommended restaurants, all of which were good (one, Arxondiko in Lindos, was superb). (GD, Amazon)

Click below to read walker’s reviews and use the ‘Look Inside’ feature on Amazon.co.uk (RRP £8.99)


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W&E RhodesThis pocket guide is designed to add another dimension to a walking holiday in Rhodes. It caters for those who only want to stroll, those who prefer a long walk — or even those who are just want recommendations for things to do in Rhodes and restaurants in Rhodes. Whether you fly out for a week or a fortnight, with this book you’ll have in your hand enough walks, excursions, restaurants and recipes to last throughout — so you can choose the most appealing. For each suggested restaurant there is a photograph of the décor and one of their dishes, plus sample menu, price guide, opening times and a recipe for one of their specialities. Other sections include: planning your trip, logistics on arrival, local markets and specialities, glossary of local food terms, and a restaurant mini-vocabulary. A special feature is the emphasis on natural local foods suitable for those with food intolerances. All recipes have been made by the authors and are known to ‘work’.

For an extremely useful source of information about the island, click here http://www.greekisland.co.uk and choose Rhodes.

Area covered: all of Rhodes; there is also a boat trip to another island, Kastellórizo

The best months for walking in Rhodes are mid-April to mid-June and September/October (the summer is far too hot for walking).


Where to stay

Your choice of where to look for accommodation will be governed by several factors. For instance, if you intend to hire a car you will benefit from a much wider choice. On the other hand if you plan to rely on public transport, you will need to choose a centre offering good access to the walk routes or excursions you plan to do. There is also the factor of what type of accommodation you plan to use, for example whether you plan to stay in a hotel or in a self-catering apartment or villa. The author provides useful advice on the various options in the Where to Stay chapter which will be found in the introductory pages of the book.

Edition/contents etc

12 walks, 2 excursions
144 pages, plan of Rhodes Town, very large-scale map of Rhodes Old Town, large-scale (1:35,000 topo maps
2nd ed, 2013; ISBN 978-1-85691-434-5; UK retail price £7.99; USA retail price $14.99

Table of contents:

PLAN OF RHODES TOWN inside front cover

the walks 5
the excursions 5
the restaurants and tavernas 6
the recipes 9
eating greek 11
rhodian food 13
the menu 14
rhodian wines 20
retsína, oúzo & soúma 22
planning your visit 23
when to go 23
where to stay 25
what to take 27
planning your walks 28
on arrival 29
tourist information 29
transport 29
shopping for self-catering 30
G-F, D-F shopping 33
rhodes market 34

Walk 1 · rhodes old town 36

Walk 2 · old town walls 43
cafés, tavernas & restaurants: rhodes town 46
hotel & taverna: ixiá 50
tavernas: koskinoú and faliráki 52
recipes: briám, poltós eliás mávri, chocolate soufflé pudding 54
recipes: hoirinó kai manitária me lemóni, soutzoukákia 56

Walk 3 · petaloúdes 58
cafés, tavernas, ostrich farm & winery near petaloúdes 62
recipes: revíthia sto horiátiki foúrno, pitaroúdia, talagoútes 65

Walk 4 · eftá pigís (‘seven springs’) 68
café and taverna: archángelos and eftá pigís 74
recipes: saganáki, féta saganáki sto foúrno 75

Walk 5 · archángelos – stegná bay circuit 76
tavernas: stegná 81
recipes: petroniatíki salad, kalamári tiganitó 83
recipes: kserotígana (thiples), galaktoboúriko 84

Walk 6 · foundoúkli circuit 86
cafés & tavernas: near foundoukl, apóllona 89
recipes: soúpa revíthi, marulosaláta, kokkinistó 90

Walk 7 · profítis ilías from sálakos 92
cafés & tavernas: near profítis ilías, sálakos 95
recipes: garídes tiganités, hoirinó tigánia crassáta, yaoúrti me méli kai karïdes 96

Walk 8 · vlichá to líndos 98
tavernas & restaurants: líndos 103
recipes: garíthes piláfi, melizanosaláta, kolokithákia tiganitá 104
recipes: mousakás 106

Walk 9 · mount akramítis 108
taverna: monolíthos 112
recipes: gígantes, tirokeftédes 113

Walk 10 · kritinía castle 114
tavernas: kámiros skála, kalavárda 119
recipe: marídes tiganités, skordaliá, horiátika saláta 120

EXCURSION 1 · líndos 122


Walk 11 · tomb of kleoboulos 127

excursion 2 · kastellórizo 128

Walk 12 · walking tour of megísti 131
tavernas: megísti 134
recipes: spanakópita, yemistá me kimá, tzatzíki 135

GREEK (language) 138
GLOSSARY (menu items, shopping terms) 140
IN the restaurant (pocket vocabulary) inside back cover

Guidebook index

The following is the index of places; the book also contains an index of recipes (which is not shown here). Page numbers shown in bold are where photographs appear; those shown in italics are where maps appear.

Ágios Nikólaos Foundoúkli 86, 87, 88, 89
Afándou 26
Apóllona 17, 89, 94
Archángelos 68-70, 71, 72-74, 76, 77, 78, 79-81
Archípoli 62-63, 69-70

Eftá Pigís 68, 69, 70, 71, 73, 74
Émbonas 17, 20, 81, 89
Faliráki 2, 25-26, 30, 53

Ixiá 25, 50, 51

Kalamónas 60, 63-64
Kalavárda 119
Kalithéa 25, 26
Kastellórizo 5, 24, 25, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134
Kámiros Skála 6, 115, 116, 118, 119
Kolímbia 25, 26, 69, 70, 71
Koskinoú 2, 39, 45, 52, 53
Kritinía 114, 115, 116, 117, 119

Lárdos 26

Líndos 5, 25, 26, 30, 69, 75, 98, 99, 100, 101-103, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127

Moní Kalópetra 58-59, 60, 61, 62, 63
Moní Kyrá Napení 72, 73
Monolíthos 109, 112
Mount Akramítis 108, 109, 110, 111

Péfkos 26, 100
Petaloúdes 2, 58, 59, 60, 61, 64
Profítis Ilías 92, 93, 94, 95, 108
Psínthos 60, 62-63

Rhodes Town 2, 4, 5, 13, 25-26, 29, 30, 31, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 41, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 59, 69, 83, 93, 119, 129, 144
plan inside front cover
plan of old town 38-9

Sálakos 87, 92, 93, 94, 95
Siána 23, 109, 110, 111
Sími 6, 48, 95, 103, 119, 141-142
Soroní 62
Stegná 69, 71, 76, 77, 78, 79, 81, 82, cover
Triánda 25, 50

Vlichá Bay 98, 99, 100, 101

Current update

RHODES 2nd edition (published 2013), updated 27/05/2014

Updates for the walks, restaurants, shops and recipes on Rhodes given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

Walk 4: Efta pigis is a pleasant enough spot, but the walk (along dusty tracks swallowing dust and pollution from locals’ pickup trucks, jeep safaris and even tourists abusing their hire cars) is tedious at best and at times downright unpleasant. Archangelos is a stinking hole even without the main road being diverted through it, when it becomes hellish. (User, 5/14)

Walk 5: map error: the map has been printed in a truncated form. It should look like this:


Walk 9: There is a decent walk to be had on Akramitis, but this isn’t it. It’s much more satisfying to make a circuit using the ‘direct route’ to chapel, then ascend to summit, then return via ‘long route’. 1-2 mins along the road in the direction of Siana from the ‘lay-by’, the ‘pilgrim’s path’ is marked by a metal signpost Ag Ioannes (in greek script). It’s narrow, but fairly well-defined throughout and marked with occasional yellow pointers and arrows on boulders. The first 15 mins is through the forest, then 5 mins of steeper ascent through a rocky area, 10 mins of further zig-zags and then an easier gradient through forest to reach the chapel in about an hour. The route to summit is adequately marked with red dots and takes about 1 hour return. When you near a low point on the ridge, there is a way up that would require the use of hands for most people, but it’s easier to continue through the thistles and follow the path just a minute or 2 further on. The ridge is broad and there is little feeling of exposure on the marked route, although it’s an impressive drop off the western side by the time you reach a building obviously popular with the local ovine population. From here it’s only another minute to the trig point. The sight of almost-barren Halki floating on an intense blue sea is what grabs the attention most, but the all-round view is better than that from Profitis Ilias. For the return, take the route initially signalled by a prominent blue dot just a minute or so down from the chapel and then continued mainly by red dots – this is the book route through the hidden valley. However, instead of forking left and up to descend by the ‘sheep route’, continue ahead and eventually ignore a further left fork, which reaches a viewpoint and a plaque, but doesn’t yield better views than those on the main path. This continues until you meet the viewpoint described in the text. This was the best walk on Rhodes for us. (User, 5/14)