Walking in Crete (West)

£10.00

Landscapes of WESTERN CRETE: 8 car tours + 45 long and short walks

by Jonnie Godfrey and Elizabeth Karslake

This new 9th edition of Western Crete has been carefully revised just a few months prior to publication, and all the maps have been redrawn using OpenStreetMap source material with GPS tracking. The printed maps show waypoints, and free downloadable GPS tracks are available for all the walks. Colour coding on the Contents page enables you to see at a glance the grading of various walks.

Click below to read walker’s reviews and use the ‘Look Inside’ feature on Amazon.co.uk (RRP £12.99)

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SKU: LANDSCAPES-CRETEW Categories: , , , , , ,

Description

Crete West

‘Mountains rearing straight up from the sea, deep wooded gorges, ravines and valleys — and yet more glorious mountains, standing proud and acting as a magnet to the eye and the imagination — that’s Western Crete, or real Crete, as some would say. Its strong, dramatic scenery and colours create sweeping landscapes of harsh but beautiful countryside — countryside that has been the backdrop for heroic deeds, ancient civilisations and constant intrigue for thousands of years, and the home of obdurate, tough-spirited people — made so by their labours on the land and their experiences.

‘Getting to know Western Crete takes time; the number of people who explore beyond the obvious is slowly growing. We hope we will lead you straight to the heart of the matter with this book, whether you are a first- or second-time visitor unsure about how best to get to know the island or, indeed, if you are someone who doesn’t need convincing but would like a reliable, thorough and different guide. We encourage you to explore to the full. We won’t need to inspire you; one look at Western Crete will do that.’ (from the Preface)

Key features:

  • 45 long and short walks, colour-coded for grade
  • 1:50,000 topo maps with waypoints
  • free downloadable GPS tracks
  • E4 long-distance hiking route highlighted on all relevant maps
  • satnav coordinates to walk starting points
  • 8 car tours and fold-out touring maps of both Eastern and Western Crete – ideal for planning
  • plans of Hania and Rethimnon
  • strolls to idyllic picnic spots
  • timetables for local transport
  • online update service

Area covered: From the Gramvousa Peninsula east to the area around Rethimnon

The best months for walking in Crete are April to June, September or October

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Where to stay

Hania gives good access by public transport to a wide range of walks. Otherwise Rethimnon could be a suitable base as it, too, has good transport links. Obviously your own wheels give you the opportunity to explore more of Crete by car.

Edition/contents etc

8 car tours, 45 long and short walks, many picnic suggestions
136 pages + two touring maps covering both western Crete and eastern Crete; plans of Hania and Rethimnon; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
9th ed, 2017; ISBN 978185691-490-1
UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $18.00

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Background reading 6

Getting about 7
Plans of Hania and Rethimnon 8-9

Picnicking 10
Picnic suggestions 11

A country code for walkers and motorists 13
Touring 14
Some points worth noting 15

1 THE FAR WEST 16
Hania • (Kastelli-Kissamos) • (Polirinia) • Vathi • Moni • Chrisoskalitisas • (Elafonisi) • Elos • Topolia • Hania

2 PALEOHORA AND SOUTH COAST BEACHES 20
Hania • Tavronitis • Voukolies • Kandanos • Paleohora • Kandanos • (Sougia) • Hania

3 COUNTRYSIDE, COASTAL BACKWATER AND HIGH CRETAN PASTURELAND 22
Hania • Nea Roumata • Agia Irini • Epanohori • Sougia • Omalos • Lakki • Fournes • Hania

4 THE AKROTIRI PENINSULA 25
Hania • Kounoupidiana • Stavros • Agia Triada • Moni Gouverneto • (Souda Bay Cemetery) • Hania

5 THE FOOTHILLS OF THE LEVKA ORI 27
Hania • Aptera • Katohori • Kambi • Mournies • Hania

6 A SLICE OF CRETE 28
Hania • Vrises • Askyfou • Hora Sfakion • Frangokastello • Selia • Asomatos • Moni Preveli • Rethimnon • Episkopi • Georgioupoli • Hania

7 CRETAN TREASURES 33
Hania • (Rethimnon) • Armeni • Spili • Agia Galini • Festos • Agia Triada • Hania

8 THE AMARI VALLEY 35
Hania • Rethimnon • Apostoli • Thronos • Fourfouras • Agios Ioannis • Gerakari • Rethimnon • Hania

Walking (see explanation of symbols on page 38) 37
Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 38
Things that bite or sting 39
What to take 40
Weather 41
Where to stay 41
Walkers’ checklist 41
Greek for walkers 42
Organisation of the walks 44

THE WALKS
1 Circuit via Agia 45
2 Kotsifou Gorge 48
The Diktamos Gorge: from Katohori to Stilos or Nio Horio) 50
4 Kambi • Volika refuge • Kambi 52
5 Georgioupoli circuit 56
6 Lake Kournas circuit 59
7 The Prassanos Gorge 62
8 Rethimnon • Chromonastiri • Myli 66
9 Myli Gorge 69
10 Gouverneto and Katholikou 71
11 Rodopos • Agios Ioannis Gionis • Rodopos 72
12 A circuit from Kolimbari via Moni Gonia 76
13 From Sirikari to Polirinia 78
14 Katsomatados • Mouri • Voulgaro 80
15 Sasalos • Katsomatados • Topolia 84
16 The Agia Irini Gorge 86
17 Sougia • Lisos • Paleohora 88
18 From Paleohora (Krios Beach) to Elafonisi 90
19 Xiloskala • Linoseli Col • Gingilos • Xiloskala 92
20 A high mountain circuit from Kallergi 95
21 The Samaria Gorge 99
22 From Agia Roumeli to Loutro 102
23 Loutro and the Aradhena Gorge 104
24 From Loutro to Hora Sfakion 111
25 The Imbros Gorge • Komitades • Hora Sfakion 112
26 Kares (Askyfou) • Asfendos • Agios Nektarios 115
27 Circuit via Moni Preveli 118
28 Ano Meros • Tripiti • Ano Meros 122
29 Circuit from Mixorouma via Frati 125
30 The Kamares Cave 128
31 Eleftherna 130

Bus timetables 133
Index (of geographical names) 135
Fold-out touring maps inside back cover of Western and Eastern Crete

Guidebook index

Ágios Pávlos (chapel on the Rodopoú Peninsula) 73, 74, 75
Akrotíri Peninsula (Ak-ro-tir-ry) 25, 42, 71
Amári Valley (Ah-ma-ree) 12, 13, 34, 36
Ano Méros (A-no Meh-ross) 36, 122, 123, 124
Anópolis (A-no-poh-lee) 31, 105, 106-7, 109
Apóstoli (A-pos-toh-lee) 35
Aptéra (Ap-teh-ra; site) 27, 33
Arádhena (A-ra-day-na) 106-7, 108, 109, 110
Gorge 94, 104, 106-7, 108, 110
Argirimoúri (Ar-gee-ree-moo-ree) 57, 58
Arméni (Ar-meh-nee) 31, 33
Asféndos (Ahs-fen-doss) 112-3, 115, 116
Ask´yfou (Ahs-kee-foo) 28, 29, 115, 166
Asómatos (Ah-so-ma-toss) 12, 28, 30, 119, 121, 134
Astrátigos (As-tra-tee-goss) 76, 77

Chromonastíri (Kro-mo-nas-tir-ry) 66, 68, 69

Díktamos Gorge (Deek-ta-moss) 11, 50-1, 51

Elafonísi (Ella-fo-nee-see) 4, 16, 18-9, 90-1, 134
Eléftherna (El-eff-there-na) 12, 130, 131, 132, 134
Elos (Ell-oss) 16, 19
Epanohóri (Eh-pa-no-ho-ree) 22, 23, 86, 87
Epískopi (Eh-pis-ko-pee) 28, 32
Exópolis (Ex-oh-po-lee) 56, 58

Falasárna (Fah-la-sar-na) 18
Féstos (Fay-stoss; site) 33, 34
Fourfourás (For-for-ahs) 35
Fournés (For-nes) 22, 24, 47
Frangokástello (Fran-go-kass-tel-lo; site) 28, 29, 30
Fráti (Fra-tee) 125, 126, 127

Georgioúpoli (Yeor-you-po-lee) 11, 28, 32, 56, 57, 58, 59, 61
Gerakári (Yer-ra-ka-ree) 36, 122
Gíngilos (Gyn-gee-loss; mountain) 92, 93, 93, 94, 98
Gramvoúsa Peninsula (Gram-voo-sa) 17
Haniá (Han-ya) 16, 20-1, 22, 25, 27-8, 33, 35, 133-4,
town plan 8
Hóra Sfakíon (Ho-ra Sfa-kee-on) 28, 29, 31, 33, 101, 104, 106-7, 111, 112, 113, 114, 116, 113-4

Ida (Eye-da; mountain — and range of mountains; also called Psilorítis) 4, 34, 36, 125, 128-9
Imbros (Eem-bross) 12, 29, 112, 113, 115
Gorge 29, 112, 113
Iráklion (Ee-rak-lee-on) 133-4

Kallérgi (Kal-lair-gee; refuge in the White Mountains) 96-7, 98
Kaloudianá (Ka-loo-dee-a-na) 19
Kamáres (Ka-ma-race) 128, 129, 134
Cave 128, 129, 129
Kámbi (Kam-bee) 11, 27, 52, 55, 56
Kándanos (Kan-da-noss) 20-1
Karés (Kar-ress) 28, 112-3, 115
Kastélli-Kíssamos (usually just referred to as Kass-tel-ly or Kiss-a-mohs) 16, 18, 133-4
Katohóri (Ka-toe-ho-ree) 11, 27, 50-1, 51, 55
Káto Stalós (Ka-to Sta-loss) 16, 44, 45, 46, 47, 134
Katsomatádos (Kat-so-ma-ta-doss) 12, 19, 80, 82, 83, 85
Kédros (Keh-dross; mountain) 34, 36, 121
Kolimbári (Ko-lim-ba-ree) 16, 77, 77, 133
Komitádes (Ko-mee-ta-dess) 29, 112, 113, 115
Kotsífou (Kot-see-foo) Gorge 32, 48, 149
Kounoupidianá (Koo-noo-pee-dee-ah-na) 25-6
Kournás (Kor-nass) 32, 60
Lake 11, 32, 59, 60-1
Kourtaliótiko Gorge (Koor-ta-lee-o-tee-ko) 13, 28, 30, 119, 125-7
Kríos Beach (Kree-oss) 90, 90-1

Lákki (Lak-kee) 22, 24
Levká Ori (Lev-ka O-ree; ‘White Mountains’) 1, 11, 21-2, 27-8, 50, 56, 108, 112
Likotinará (Lik-o-tee-na-ra) 57, 58
Linoséli (Lee-no-say-lee; col below Gíngilos) 92, 93, 94
Lisós (Lee-soss; site) 88-9; 89
Livanianá (Li-va-nee-a-na) 94, 104, 106-7, 108
Loutró (Loo-tro) 94, 102-103, 104, 105, 106-7, 109-10, 111
L´ykkos (Lee-kos) 102-3, 107

Máleme (Ma-leh-meh) 16, 134
Marioú (Ma-ree-oo) 30
Mathés 59, 60, 61
Mávri (Ma-vree; mountain) 95, 96-7
Megalopótamos (river) 120, 119, 126, 127
Melindaoú (Me-lin-dow-oo; mountain) 95, 96-7
Mesara Plain 34, 124
Missíria (Mi-see-ree-a) 64-5
Mírthios (Meer-tee-oss) 30, 35, 49
Mixórouma 34, 125, 126, 127
Moní (Mo-nee; monastery or chapel)
Chrisoskalítisas (Hri-so-ska-lee-tee-sass) 16, 18, 19, 134
Goniá (Gon-yah) 17, 77, 77
Moní (continued)
Gouvernéto (Goo-ver-neh-toh) 12, 25, 71
Katholikoú (Ka-tho-lee-koo) 26, 42, 71
Préveli (Pray-veh-lee) 28, 30, 118, 119, 134
Mourí (Moo-ree) 80, 82-3
Mourné 125, 126
Mourniés (Moor-nee-ess) 27
M´yli (Mee-lee) 64-5, 68, 70
Gorge 11, 68, 69, 70

Néa Roúmata (Nay-a Roo-ma-ta) 23
Nío Horió (Nee-o Hor-yo) 50-1

Omalós Plain (O-ma-loss) 22, 24, 99, 101, 133-4

Paleohóra (Pa-lay-o-ho-ra) 21, 88-9, 90-1, 133
Palm (Preveli) Beach 119, 119, 120
Perivólia (Pe-ree-vo-lee-a) 69, 70
Plákias (Plah-key-ahs) 30-1, 32, 48, 49, 134
Plataniás (Pla-tan-yas) 16, 47, 134
Plátys River (Plah-tiss) 12, 36
Polirínia (Polly-reen-ya) 10, 11, 16-17, 78, 79
Prasés (Prah-sess) 23
Prasiés (Pra-zie-ess) 35, 62, 64, 65
Prassanós Gorge (Pras-sa-noss) 35, 63, 64, 65
Profítis Ilías (Pro-fee-tiss Ill-ee-ass; chapel above Rethimnon) 11, 66, 69
Psilorítis (Psi-lo-ree-tiss) see Ida

Réthimnon (Reth-eem-non) 11, 28, 31, 33, 35-6, 66-7, 69, 133-4
town plan 9
Rodopós (Ro-tho-poss) 72, 74, 75, 76
Rodopoú Peninsula (Ro-tho-poo) 17, 72, 74, 75, 76

Samariá Gorge (Sa-ma-ree-a) 22-3, 24, 98, 100, 101, 101, 104, cover
Sásalos (Sass-a-loss) 81, 82, 84, 85
Seliá (Sel-yah)
near Mírthios 28, 30
near Georgioúpoli 57, 58
Sfinári (Sfee-na-ree) 16, 18
Sirikári (Sirry-ka-ree) 78, 79
Soúda (Soo-da) 25-7
Soúgia (Soo-yah) 12, 20, 23, 86, 87, 88-9, 89, 133
Spíli (Spee-lee) 33
Stalós (Sta-loss) 2, 26, 44, 47
Stavrós (Sta-vross) 26
Stílos (Stee-loss) 50-1

Tavronítis (Tav-ro-nee-tis) 16, 20
Thrónos (Thro-noss) 35
Topólia (Toh-poll-yah) 12, 16, 19, 82, 84-5, 85, 85
Gorge 19, 80, 82, 84-5, 85, 85
Trípiti (Tree-pi-tee; peak) 122, 123, 124

Váthi (Va-thee) 16, 18
Vólika Refuge (Vo-lee-ka) 52, 53, 54, 55
Voukoliés (Voo-ko-lee-ess) 20
Voulgáro (Vool-ga-ro) 19, 80, 82, 83
Vríses (Vree-ses)
near Haniá 28, 33
near Ano Meros 36
Vríssinas (Vree-see-nas; mountain) 67, 69

White Mountains see Levka Ori

Xilóskala (Ksee-lo-ska-la; staircase with wooden railings leading to Samariá Gorge) 22-3, 24, 92, 93, 94-5, 96-7, 99-100, 101

Current update

Western Crete, 9th edition (2017)

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in Western Crete given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

We have not yet received any update information for this book, which was updated by the authors shortly before publication of this 9th edition.

 

GPS Tracks

GPS files for use with Landscapes of Western Crete:

Download GPS files for Landscapes of Western Crete