Walking in Croatia

£10.00

Landscapes of CROATIA: 9 car tours + 70 long and short walks

by Sandra Bardwell

This is the new, Third edition of…

‘An essential guide for those that wish to experience this lovely country. The emphasis is on the great range of walking tours in Croatia which can be undertaken in conjunction with the detailed tours for exploring Croatia by car. The walks are well detailed with decent maps, I have completed many of the walks down the Croatian coastline and around some of the beautiful islands. The Plitvice National Park is also covered and not to be missed. (JMG, Amazon)

Click below to read walker’s reviews and use the ‘Look Inside’ feature on Amazon.co.uk (RRP £12.99)

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Description

Croatia

Contrasts and diversity sum up Croatia, one of the most beautiful and beguiling countries in Europe: tall forests, wind-combed prickly thornbush and juniper on the stony uplands, the miraculous waterfalls in the Plitvice Lakes and Krka national parks, the aridity of the karst landscapes, modern tourist resorts and timeless old villages, the deserted Krajina region and the intensively cultivated Neretva delta. The parks are particularly welcoming to walkers, with miles of waymarked and well-maintained paths and trails, some bringing seemingly inaccessible summits within quite easy reach.

From prehistoric times to the end of the 20th century, many empires and events have left their marks on the Croatian landscape. There are prehistoric piles of stones on hilltops, Venetian-era town walls and towers, British and French fortresses, opulent Austro-Hungarian villas, partisans’ refuges and poignant memorials commemorating World War II resistance fighters, and even signs of the 1990s strife. Age-old expressions of religious belief survive in many simple, beautiful chapels in small villages. Stone walls and enclosures testify to the centuries-old challenge to wrest a living from the land, even though many are crumbling or are being reclaimed by forests.

Key features:

  • 70 long and short walks for all ages and abilities
  • 1:50,000 topo maps
  • 9 car tours and fold-out touring maps including ferry routes – ideal for planning
  • 30 picnic suggestions
  • public transport information, with websites
  • online update service

Area covered: Croatia’s Adriatic coast from the Kvarner Gulf south to Dubrovnik, 11 islands, and two inland areas. Includes the Mljet, Plitvice Lakes, Krka and Paklenica national parks, Biokovo and Ucka nature parks, five of Croatia’s six World Heritage sites.

The best months for walking in Croatia are May to July, September and October.

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Where to stay

Each walk includes a note that tells you the nearest town with readily available accommodation.

Edition/contents etc

9 car tours, 70 long and short walks, 30 picnics/short walks
136 pages + two touring maps; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
3rd ed, 2017; ISBN 978-1-85691-484-0;
UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $18.00

Table of contents:

IMPORTANT: Place names in Croatia often contain characters with accents, several of which are not included in western European fonts. Accented characters such as these often appear incorrectly when viewed on the web and if used may be replaced by unrecognizable symbols when viewed on a different computer. Accented characters in the place names shown here have therefore been replaced by characters without accents. However, in the book, the appropriate font has been used to ensure that all place names appear with the correct accents.

Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Recommended reading;
Useful contacts 7
Travel 8

TOURING 9
Car tour 1: DUBROVNIK AND BEYOND 10
Car tour 2: CENTRAL DALMATIA 13
Car tour 3: BRAC 15
Car tour 4: HVAR 17
Car tour 5: VIS 19
Car tour 6: LAKES, WATERFALLS, CANYONS 21
Car tour 7: THE KVARNER GULF 23
Car tour 8: LOSINJ 25
Car tour 9: CRES 27

Picnics and short walks 29

WALKING 38
Grades, waymarks, maps 38
Equipment and safety 39
Weather 39
Where to stay 40
Nuisances 40
Country code 41
Croatian for walkers 41
Organisation of the walks 43

THE WALKS
1 Lokrum: tour of the island from Portoc 44
2 Kolocep: tour of the island from Donje elo 47
3 Lopud: tour of the island from Uvala Lopud 49
4 Mljet: Zakamenica viewpoint and Vratsolina from Pomena or Polace 51
5 Mljet: Montokuc summit from Pomena or Polace 55
6 Mljet: Soline from Pomena or Polace 57
7 Peljesac peninsula: Svete Ilija summit from Orebicc 59
8 Adriatic coast: from Makarska to Baska Voda 63
9 Adriatic coast: from Baska Voda to Luka and return 65
10 Adriatic coast: Biokovo foothills from Makarska 67
11 Adriatic coast: Vosak summit from Makarska 69
12 Brac: from Bol to Svete Lucija and Gornje Smokovje 71
13 Brac: Vidova Gora summit from Bol 73
14 Brac: Blaca Monastery from Murvica 75
15 Hvar: Faros Cycle Route and Glavica summit from Stari Grad 79
16 Hvar: from Veliko Grablje to Hvar town 81
17 Hvar: Svete Nikola summit from Stari Grad 83
18 Plitvice Lakes National Park: circuit of the lakes and falls 86
19 Paklenica National Park: Velika Paklenica and Planinarski Dom Paklenica 89
20 Paklenica National Park: AnicaKuk from Velika Paklenica 92
21 Paklenica National Park: Manita Pec and the Vidakov Kuk plateau from Velika Paklenica 94
22 Kvarner Gulf: from Volosko to Lovran via Opatija 96
23 Kvarner Gulf: Vojak summit from Lovran 98
24 Kvarner Gulf: Vojak summit from Poklon 102
25 Kvarner Gulf: Vojak summit from Lovranska Draga 104
26 Rab: Uvala Podsilo and Sahara beach from Lopar 106
27 Rab: Fruga forest from Autokamp San Marino near Lopar 108
28 Rab: Kamenjak summit from Rab town harbour 110
29 Krk: Stara Baska from Baska 112
30 Krk: Obzova summit from Baska 115
31 Krk: Hlam summit from Baska 118
32 Krk: Bag summit from Baska with optional detour to Rt Skuljika 120
33 Krk: Prniba point from the Politin access road 122
34 Losinj: from Nerezine to Osor via the Televrin summit 124
35 Losinj: Planinarski Dom Svete Gaudent from Osor 127
36 Losinj: across the island’s spine 129
37 Cres: Venetian tower and Svete Salvatur from Cres harbour 131

Transport information: ferries and buses 133
Index 135
Fold-out island map inside back cover

Guidebook index

IMPORTANT: Place names in Croatia often contain characters with accents, several of which are not included in western European fonts. Accented characters such as these often appear incorrectly when viewed on the web and if used may be replaced by unrecognizable symbols when viewed on a different computer. Accented characters in the place names shown here have therefore been replaced by characters without accents. However, in the book, the appropriate font has been used to ensure that all place names appear with the correct accents.

Adriatic Sea 5, 8, 9, 15, 23, 29, 31, 38, 59, 62, 63, 65, 67, 69, 73, 128
Anica Kuk 62, 90, 92, 93
Baska Voda 12, 13, 63, 64, 65, 66
Bilopolje 60-1
Biokovo Nature Park 5, 13, 66-7, 68, 71
Borje 21
Bosnia and Herzegovina 12
Brac (island) see Contents
Blaca Monastery 15, 16, 75, 76-7, 78
Bol 15, 16, 17, 70-1, 72-3, 75, 134, cover
Gornje Humac 15, 16
Gornje Smokovje 70-1, 72
Murvica 75, 76-7, 78
Podbarje 72-3
Postira 16
Praznice 16
Pucisca 16
Skrip 16
Splitska 16
Stup 16
Sumartin 12, 13, 15, 134
Supetar 12, 13, 15, 16, 134
Svete Josipa 72-3
Svete Lucija 70-1, 113
Vidova Gora 15, 16, 31, 72-3, 74
Zlatni Rat 16, 72-3, 74
Bratus 63, 64
Brestova 23, 25, 134
Bruvno 21
Cres (island) see Contents
Beli 27, 28
Cres town 27, 28, 36, 131, 132
Lungomare Svete Mikule 36, 131
Gorice 26, 36, 37
Lubenice 27, 28, 37
Merag 23, 25, 134
Orlec 25
Osor 25, 124, 125, 126-7, 128
Osorscica ridge 124, 125, 126-7
Porozina 25, 134
Svete Salvatur 131, 132
Valun 27, 35, 37
Dalmatia 13-4, 19
Dol 99, 100-1, 104, 105
Drvenik 11, 12, 17, 133
Dubrovnik 10, 11, 12, 14, 29, 44, 47, 49, 59, 133-4
Elaphiti islands 30, 47, 48, 49, 133
Goli Otok (island) 110
Gracac 21
Hvar (island) see Contents
Brusje 17, 18
Dol 84, 84, 85
Faros Cycle Route 17, 18, 79, 80, 83
Glavica 32, 79, 80
Hvar town 17, 18, 31, 80-1, 133-4
Jelsa 17, 83, 134
Malo Grablje 80-1, 82
Milna 20, 80-1, 82, 134
Selca 15, 17
Spanjola fort 18, 31
Stari Grad 17, 32, 79, 80, 83, 84, 85, 134
Sucuraj 17
Svete Nikola 83, 84, 84, 85
Veliko Grablje 18, 80-1
Uvala Podstine 31
Istria 27, 37, 103, 104, 113, 128, 132, 134
Jablanac 22, 24, 134
Karlobag 22
Kolocep (island) 29, 47, 48
Bige 29, 47, 48, 50
Donje Celo 47, 48
Gornje Celo 47, 48
Korcula (island) see Contents
Korcula town 11, 59, 60-1, 60-1, 133-4
Korenica 21
Krk (island) see Contents
Bag 114-5, 120, 121
Baska 23, 36, 112, 114-5, 118, 119, 120-1, 134
Batomalj 112, 114-5
Draga Bascanska 24, 114-5, 117, 134
Goricke 114-5, 116
Hlam 62, 114-5, 118-9
Jurandvor 24, 112-3
Krk town 24, 122, 123, 133
Lipica 114-5, 116, 117
Malinska 24, 134
Maslenika 21
Obzova 114-5, 116, 117
Plato Mjeseca 114-5, 118, 119
Prniba Point 122, 123
Puntarska Draga 122, 123
Rt Skuljica 114-5, 120, 121
Stara Baska 112, 114-5
Svete Ivan 114-5, 118, 119
Uvala Svete Danijel 123, 123
Valbiska 23, 24, 25, 134
Zarok 120
Zminja 114-5, 117
Krka National Park 14, 33
Krvavica 62, 63, 64
Kvarner Gulf 23-4, 96-105
Lokrum (island) 29, 44-5, 46
Dead Sea 45, 46
Fort Royal 46
Portoc 44-5, 46
Lopar (island) 23-4, 106-7, 108, 134
Lopud (island) 10, 11, 29, 48, 49, 50
Svete Ivan 29, 49
Benesin Rat 29, 48, 50
Gospa od Sunja 48, 49, 50
Svete Mauro 48, 49, 50
Svete Nikola 48, 49
Lopud (continued) Uvala Lopud 48, 49, 50
Losˇinj (island) see Contents
Grgoscak 26
Mali Losinj 25, 26, 124, 127, 129, 134
Mrtvaska 26, 36
Nerezine 25, 124, 125, 126-7
Planinarski Dom Svete Gaudent 126-7, 127, 128
Pogled 26
Rovenska 4-5, 128-9
Svete Ivan 26, 36
Svete Nikola 129, 130
Televrin 124, 125,126-7
Uvala Javorna 128-9, 130
Uvala Krivica 128-9, 130
Veli Losinj 25, 26, 36, 124, 127, 128-9, 130, 134
Lovran 22, 23, 96, 97, 98, 101, 134
Lovranska Draga 98, 100-1, 104, 105, 134
Luka 65, 66
Lukcova Pecina 90, 92, 93
Luzinski Breg 98, 100-1
Makar 66-7, 68, 70
Makarksa 12, 13, 14, 15, 30, 63, 64, 66-7, 68, 69, 70, 134
Makarska Riviera 10, 12, 13, 61, 64, 65, 66-7
Mala Paklenica 34
Mali Prstavac 87, 88
Mali Ston 11
Manita Pec 90, 94, 95
Mljet (island) and Mljet National Park see Contents
Babine Kuce 52-3, 55, 56
Babino Polje 10
Mali Most 51, 52-3, 55, 56
Malo Jezero 51, 52-3, 55, 56
Montokuc 52-3, 55, 56
Polace 10, 30, 51, 52-3, 55, 56, 57, 133
Pomena 10, 30, 51, 52-3, 55, 56, 57
Mljet (continued) Pristaniste 30, 52-3, 55, 56
St Mary’s Island 30, 52-3, 54
Sobra 10, 133
Soline 52-3, 57
Solinski Kanal 52-3
Veliki Most 52-3, 58
Veliko Jezero 51, 52-3, 55, 56, 57, 58
Vratosolina 51, 52-3, 57
Zakamenica 51, 52-3
Neum 12
Njivarska Strana 90, 91
North Velebit National Park 22
Novi Vinodolski 22
Obravac 21
Omis 12, 13
Opatija 22, 23, 96, 97, 103, 104, 134
Opatija Riviera 21, 94, 96, 97
Orebic 10, 11, 30, 59, 60-1, 133-4
Osejava 30
Paklenica National Park 6, 21, 22, 34, 35, 89, 90, 91-95
Peljesac peninsula 10, 11, 59, 60-1, 60-1
Planinarski Dom Paklenica 89, 90, 91
Planinarski Dom Vosˇak 66-7, 70
Plitvice Lakes National Park (Plitvice Jezera) 6, 21, 34, 86, 87, 88, 88
Ploce 11, 12
Poklon 23, 98, 100-1, 102, 103, 134
Potomje 11
Primosten 14
Prizdrina 11
Promajna 63, 64
Punta Rata 65, 66
Rab (island) see Contents
Fruga forest 108, 109
Kaldanac Park 24, 36
Kamenjak 110, 111
Misnjak 24, 134
Rab town 24, 35, 106, 108, 110, 111, 111
Sahara Beach 106, 107, 108
San Marino 36, 106, 107, 108, 109
Uvala Saramic-Sahara 106, 107, 108
Rijeka 11, 14, 21, 22, 23, 133-4
Senj 22
Sibenik 14
Sipan (island) 29
Luka Sipanska 29
Skradin 14, 33, 34
Soline 65, 66
Split 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 133-4
Starigrad-Paklenica 21, 22, 34, 35, 89, 90, 92, 94, 95, 134
Ston 10, 11
Svete Ilija 59, 60-1, 62
Trogir 14
Trpanj 11, 12, 133
Trstenik 10, 11, 133
Trsteno 10
Ucka Nature Park 23, 98, 99, 100-1, 103, 104, 105
Udbina 21
Vecko Kula 22, 34
Velika Paklenica 89, 90, 94, 95
Veliko Brdo 66-7, 68
Vidakov Kuk 90, 94
Villa Angiolina 96, 97
Vis (island) see Contents
Ceska Vila 32
Fort Wellington 32
Hum 19, 20, 33
Komiza 19
Podspilje 19, 20
Podstrazje 20
Rukavac 20
Svete Duh 19, 20, 33
Titova Spilja 19, 20, 31, 32, 33
Vis town 1, 19, 20, 32
Vodice 14
Vojak 98, 99, 100-1, 102, 103, 104, 105
Volosko 23, 96, 97
Vosak 66-7, 69, 70
Zadar 14, 21, 22, 24, 133-4
Zagreb 8, 21, 22, 133-4
Zaostrog 12
Zaton 21, 22
Zaton Doli 10, 11, 12

Current update

Croastia, 3rd edition (2017

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in Croatia given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

We have not yet received any update information for this book, which was updated by the authors shortly before publication of this 3rd edition.