Walking in Scotland

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Landscapes of the SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS and SKYE: walks and car tours

by Stephen Whitehorne

This wilderness gives me not only the fresh air and physical rejuvenation I crave, but it affects me on a far more profound level as well, providing endless poetic and aesthetic inspiration for my work as a photographer. The region’s social and natural history is fascinating, but this landscape can be an essential spiritual refuge too. (Stephen Whitehorne, author)

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SKU: LANDSCAPES-SCOTLA Categories: , , , , , ,
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Description

ScotlandThis book brings to life some of the most breathtaking scenery in the British Isles. The author has explored every nook and cranny of the Highlands and Skye — as well as the mountaintops. The Highlands are one of Europe’s last great wilderness areas, one of the few remaining landscapes where the luxuries of solitude, silence and space abound. While the tourist boards tend to perpetuate the myths of kilt and bagpipe, the Loch Ness monster and romantic medieval castles, most people visit Scotland for the reality — for the beauty and great diversity of its scenery, to discover remote lochs, atmospheric glens and dramatic mountains. Touring the Scottish Highlands by car, enjoying the picnic suggestions, or walking in the Scottish Highlands, this book will allow you to discover the very best the Highlands have to offer. Stephen Whitehorne is one of Scotland’s best-known photographer/authors. The photographic images in this book — all of calendar quality — will whet your appetite and remain a wonderful souvenir of your holiday in the Highlands.

Area covered: The book covers a vast geographical area — over half of Scotland in fact. Geologically speaking, the Scottish Highlands can be defined as the mountainous area which lies north of the Highland Boundary Fault. This fault line dissects the southern half of Loch Lomond and forms The Trossachs.

The best months for walking in the Scottish Highlands are from May to September.

Where to stay

The book covers such a large area that users are assumed to be touring the Scottish Highlands by car. The car tours are circular; each begins and ends in the same village or town, your most likely base in that area. Each of the car tours takes you to the starting point of some delightful walks.

Edition/contents etc

10 Car tours, 45 long and short walks, 12 picnic suggestions
136 pages + 2 touring maps (eastern and western Highlands); 1:50,000 topo maps
3rd ed, 2010; ISBN 978-1-85691-390-4; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $17.99

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Acknowledgements 7
Glossary 8
Getting about 9
Picnic suggestions 11

TOURING

WILD COUNTRY OF REBELS AND POETS (TOUR 1) 16
Callander · Brig o’ Turk · Trossachs Pier · Aberfoyle · Inversnaid · Port of Menteith · Callander

ARGYLL (TOUR 2) 20
Tarbet · Arrochar · Inveraray · Lochawe · Dalmally · Bridge of Orchy · Victoria Bridge · Tyndrum · Crianlarich · Tarbet

BEAUTIFUL TAYSIDE (TOUR 3) 23
Killin · Ardeonaig · Kenmore · Fortingall · Bridge of Balgie · Ben Lawers · Glen Lochay · Killin · Glen Dochart · Killin

THE SADDEST GLEN AND THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN (TOUR 4) 26
Fort William · Glen Nevis · Fort William · Onich · Glen Coe · Loch Etive · Glencoe · Kinlochleven · North Ballachulish · Fort William

ROYAL DEESIDE (TOUR 5) 30
Braemar · Balmoral · Bridge of Muick · Glen Muick · Ballater · Balmoral · Braemar · Linn of Dee and Linn of Quoich · Braemar

MONUMENTAL MOUNTAINS AND SKI RUNS, BIG RIVERS AND WHISKY GALORE! (TOUR 6) 32
Aviemore · Carrbridge · Grantown-on-Spey · Marypark · Nethy Bridge · Glen More · Glen Feshie · Aviemore

LOCHALSH (TOUR 7) 34
Plockton · Kyle of Lochalsh · Dornie · Shiel Bridge · Glenelg · Arnisdale · Shiel Bridge · Cluanie Inn · Auchtertyre · Plockton

THE ISLAND OF MIST (TOUR 8) 37
Portree · Staffin · Uig · Portree · Sligachan · Broadford · Elgol · Portree

TORRIDON AND APPLECROSS (TOUR 9) 39
Kinlochewe · Torridon · Lower Diabaig · Shieldaig · Applecross · Bealach na Bà · Lochcarron · Achnasheen · Kinlochewe · Beinn Eighe NNR · Kinlochewe

ASSYNT AND COIGACH (TOUR 10) 42
Lochinver · Stoer · Drumbeg · Inchnadamph · Knockan · Drumrunie · Lochinver

WALKING
Weather 45
Safety and equipment 46
Country code 46
Waymarking, maps and grading 47
Where to stay 48
Organisation of the walks 48
Access 50
Munros 50
Nuisances 50

THE WALKS
1 Pedestrian path and cycleway to Strathyre 51
2 Ben Ledi 55
3 Ben A’an 57
4 Wildlife ramble on the ‘Bonnie Banks’ 59
5 The Cobbler 62
6 Rannoch Moor and the Black Mount 64
7 Stob à Choire Odhair 67
8 Following the passage of steam through Glen Dochart and Glen Ogle 70
9 Glen Lyon 74
10 Ben Lawers 76
11 Ben Nevis 79
12 Nevis Gorge 82
13 The Lost Valley 84
14 Pap of Glencoe 86
15 Morrone 89
16 Lochnager 91
17 Glen Quoich 94
18 Rothiemurchus and Gleann Einich 97
19 Ryvoan Pass 100
20 Cairn Gorm and Ben Macdui 103
21 Falls of Glomach 107
22 Beinn Sgritheall 109
23 The Storr 111
24 The Quiraing 114
25 Loch Coruisk and Glen Sligachan 116
26 Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Beinn Eighe) 120
27 Beinn Alligin 124
28 The Mainnrichean Buttress of Fuar Tholl 126
29 Suilven 129
30 Stac Pollaidh (Stack Polly) 132

Index 134
Useful addresses/STOP PRESS 136
Fold-out touring map inside back cover

Guidebook index

Aberfoyle 16, 18-9
Acharn 24
Achmelvich 42
Achnasheen 39, 41
Achnashellach 41, 126, 128
Allanaquoich 31, 94, 96
Allt a’ Bhalachain 62, 63
Altnafeadh 12, 29
Annat 40, 126
Applecross 39, 41
Ardchullarie More 52-3, 54
Ardeonaig 22, 24
Ardvreck Castle 43
Argyll 12, 20-2, 62-3
Arnisdale 34, 36, 109, 110
Arrochar 20
Alps 18, 19, cover
Auchertyre 34, 36
Aviemore 32
Ballachulish 86-7
Ballater 12, 13, 30-1
Ballindalloch 33
Balmacara Estate 35
Balmoral 30-1
Balquidder 51
Bealach na Bà 39, 41
Bealach Ratagan 13, 35
Beinn Alligin 124, 125
Beinn Eighe NNR 13, 39, 41, 120, 121, 122-3
Beinn Ghlas 76-7, 78
Beinn Sgritheall 36, 109, 110
Beinn Toag 65, 66
Ben A’an 57, 58
Ben Lawers 12, 23, 25, 76-7, 78
Ben Ledi 18, 51, 52-3, 54-5, 56
Ben Lomond 18
Ben Lui 22
Ben Macdui 103, 105, 106
Ben More 72
Ben Nevis 12, 27, 79, 80, 81
Ben Venue 17
Bla Bheinn (Skye) 38
Black Mount, The 64-5, 66, 68-9
Borve (Skye) 38
Braemar 30, 31, 88, 89, 90, 94, 97
Bracklin Falls 52-3
Bridge of Balgie 22, 25, 74-5
Bridge of Orchy 20, 22, 64, 66, 67
Bridge of Muick 30-1
Brig o’ Turk 16
Broadford (Skye) 37-8
Brogaig (Skye) 38, 114
Buachaille Etive Mòr 29
Cairngorm Mountains 12, 32-3, 94-106
Cairn Gorm 33, 103, 104-5, 106
Callander 16, 18, 51, 52-3, 55, 70
Carrbridge 32
Clachaig Inn 86
Clachan 20
Clashnessie Bay 42
Cluanie Inn 34, 36
Cobbler, The (mountain) 49, 62, 63
Coire Mhic Fhearchair see Beinn Eighe
Coire Mhic Nòbuil 40
Corran 36, 109
Coylumbridge 33, 97
Craigendarroch (mountain) 13, 31
Crathie 31
Crianlarich 20, 22, 70
Cromdale 33
Cruachan 59
Cuillin Hills (Skye) 116-7
Dalmally 20, 22
Dee, River 30-1, 88-9, 94
Diabaig, Lower 39-40, 41
Dornie 34-6
Dorusdain 107
Drumbeg 42
Drumrunie 42-3, 132
Duirinish 34
Duke’s Pass 11, 18
Dulnain Bridge 32
Dun Telve 35
Duntulm Castle (Skye) 38
Eilean Donan Castle 35, 36
Elgol (Skye) 13, 37-8, 116, 119
Elphin 132
Falls of Dochart 70-1
Falls of Glomach 107, 108
Falls of Kirkaig 13, 44
Falls of Leny 52-3, 55
Feshiebridge 33
Fort William 26, 28, 79, 86
Fortingall 23-4
Fuar Tholl (mountain) 126, 127, 128
Garbh Uisge (river) 52-3, 55-6
Gleann Einich 97, 98, 99
Glen Coe 2, 12, 28, 64, 84, 85
Glen Dochart 23, 25, 70-1, 72, 73
Glen Etive 12, 27, 28-9, 84, 86
Glen Falloch 1, 22
Glen Feshie 32, 33
Glen Finglas 51
Glen Kinglass 68-9
Glen Lochay 12, 23, 25
Glen Lyon 12, 24, 25, 74-5
Glen More 35, 102
Forest 32, 100, 102
Glen Muick 30-1
Glen Nevis 12, 26, 27, 79, 80, 82, 83, 83
Glen Ogle 70-1, 72
Glen Quoich 94-5, 96
Glen Sligachan (Skye) 116, 118, 119
Glen Torridon 120, 122, 126
Glencoe (village) 26, 29, 85-7, 88
Pass of 28, 85
Pap of 86-7, 88

Glenelg 34-5
Grantown-on-Spey 32
Inchmahome Priory 11, 19
Inchnadamph 42-3
Inchree 28
Innerwick 74
Inveraray 20, 21
Inverarnan 12, 22
Inverkirkaig 44
Inveroran 22
Inverpolly 132, 133
Inversnaid 11, 16, 18, 19, 59, 61, cover
Inveruglas 12, 22
Keltneyburn 24
Kenmore 23, 24, 76
Kilchurn Castle 12, 21
Killin 23, 25, 70-1, 76
Junction (old railway station) 70-1, 73
Kilmahog 16
Kilt Rock (Skye) 13, 37
Kincraig 33
Kinlochewe 39, 41
Kintail Country Park 35, 107
Knockan 42-3
Kyle of Lochalsh 34, 126
Laggan 52-3, 54
Lake of Menteith 10, 11, 19
Ledcharrie 25
Ledmore 43
Linn of Dee 30-1
Linn of Quoich 30-1, 94, 96
Loch Achray 16, 17, 57, 58
Loch Ard 18, 19
Loch Arklet 18, 19, 59, 61, cover
Loch Awe 12, 21
Loch Chon 19
Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair 121
Loch Coruisk (Skye) 116, 118, 119
Loch Dhu 19
Loch Duich 35
Loch Etive 26, 29
Loch Hourn 34, 36, 109, 110
Loch Katrine 57
Loch Leathan (Skye) 111
Loch Leven 86-7
Loch Lomond 19, 22, 59, 61
Loch Long 62, 63
Loch Lubnaig 51, 52-3
Loch Lurgain 132
Loch Morlich 100, 102
Loch Ossian 82
Loch Rannoch 74
Loch Shieldaig 39
Loch Slapin (Skye) 38
Loch Tay 23, 24
Loch Torridon, Upper 40, 41, 124
Loch Tulla 21
Lochaber 12
Lochan Uaine 100-1
Lochawe 20-1
Lochcarron 39, 41
Lochinver 42, 129, 130-1, 132
Lochnager (mountain) 91, 92-3
Mamores (mountain range) 79
Marypark 32-3
Meall a’ Bhuirion (Glen Etive) 27
Morrone (Morven; mountain) 88, 89, 90
Nedd 43
Nethy Bridge 32-3
Nevis Gorge 12, 82, 83
North Ballachulish 26, 29
Onich 26, 28
Plockton 13, 34
Polldubh 28, 79
Port of Menteith 10, 11, 16, 19
Portree (Skye) 37-8
Quiraing, The (Skye, rock pinnacles) 114, 115
Rannock Moor 64, 65, 66
Rest and be Thankful 12, 20
Revack Estate 12, 33
Roromore 24
Rothiemurchus 97, 98
Ryvoan Pass 100-1, 102
Shiel Bridge 34-6
Shieldaig 39, 40, 41
Sligachan (Skye) 37-8, 116-7, 118
Spey, River 12, 32-3
Spittal of Glenmuick 91, 92-3
Stac Pollaidh (‘Stack Polly’; mountain) 132, 133
Staffin (Skye) 37
Stank 52-3, 55-6
Steall Bridge 82, 83
Waterfall 12, 28, 79, 83
Strath Fillan 22
Strathellan Wood (Plockton) 13, 36
Strathyre 51, 52-3
Stob à Choire Odhair 65, 66, 67-8
Stob Binnein 72
Stoer 42
Storr, The (Skye, peak) 111, 112, 113
Succoth 20, 62, 63
Suilven (mountain) 129, 130-1, 133
Tarbet 20
Tay, River 23-5
Teith, River 18
Three Sisters, The (mountains) 84, 85
Torridon 39-40, 124
Torrin (Skye) 38
Trossachs, The 16-19, 57-8
Trossachs Pier 16, 17
Trotternish Peninsula (Skye) 13, 111, 112-3
Tyndrum 20, 22
Uig (Skye) 37-8
Victoria Bridge 20, 22, 64, 66, 67, 68-9

Current update

Scottish Highlands, 3rd edition (2010), updated 23/07/11

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in the Highlands of Scotland given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

Map error: Walk 28 and Walk 25 are shown in the wrong place on the touring map: 28 is where 25 should be and vice versa. (User, 7/11)