Walking in Malta and Gozo

Malta, Gozo & Comino, 8th edition (2022), updated 10/10/24

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on on Malta and Gozo given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you.

Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

Transport: We gave up on the buses (very slow and went via all the built up places) so we downloaded the Bolt app (like Uber) for taxis. You select where you go on a map in the app and it shows all their available taxis near you and their ETA.  It was surprisingly cheap  (I think it was 15 euros to the start of walk 16 from the centre of Valletta and under 20 mins to get there.  We used them to turn some of your walks into serial ones and we never had to wait more than 5 mins for a ride even in the middle of nowhere. (User, 3/24)

Inter-island travel: I took the ‘fast ferry’ catamaran from Valetta (Lascaris Wharf) to Mgarr Harbour in Gozo – only took 45 minutes! This is certainly a faster way to get to Gozo if you are staying in Sliema or St Julians than travelling up to the north for the car ferry. In March there were 10 daily sailings in each direction. All the details are here: gozofastferry.com. Of course, being a catamaran, it is less reliable in poor weather conditions – which are much more likely to occur during the preferred walking season of October to May. (User, 4/22) • The user of 3/24 also praises this fast ferry (Sunflower)

MALTA AND GOZO WALKING LEAFLETS

A welcome result of the Rural Development Programme for Malta 2007-2013 that was 75% funded by the European Union has been the publication of eight pocket-size leaflets for Malta and a further eight larger booklets covering walking routes in Gozo and Comino. Three of the Malta walking leaflets share common ground with walks in Landscapes of Malta, Gozo and Comino: Dingli-Fawara-Wied iz-Zurrieq (Red leaflet); Marsascala-Marsaxlokk (White); Marfa (Blue). The other leaflets offer walking alternatives in the area bounded by Rabat, Dingli, Siggiewi and Zurrieq and are colour coded green (Buskett-Siggiewi), orange (Rabat-Dingli), yellow (Qrendi-Mqabba-Zurrieq), blue (Zurrieq-Safi) and grey (Siggiewi-Qrendi). Each leaflet contains a map and a description of the route. The distance of each walk is indicated as are local bus services. The leaflets are available from Malta Tourism Authority offices and are free of charge.

The Gozo and Comino booklets contain more information than their Malta counterparts and each is 22 pages long and illustrated with colour photographs. The walking routes are superimposed on aerial photographs giving a realistic impression of local topography. There is a significant overlap between the five walks in Gozo and Comino in the Sunflower guide and the routes covered by the Gozo and Comino booklets. The booklets can be obtained from the tourist information office in Victoria, Gozo and are free, though you are likely to be asked to make a donation to a local charity.

There is another walking leaflet which has been published by the Ministry for Gozo as part of the EcoGozo project and is titled Gozo Coastal Walk. This provides a walking route that hugs the coast of the island. It is divided into four sub-sections: Mgarr-Xlendi; Xlendi-San Lawrenz; San Lawrenz-Marsalforn; Marsalforn-Mgarr. The map is very general and certainly does not contain sufficient detail for walkers visiting Gozo for the first time. The route notes are briefer than those in the Malta leaflets and Gozo booklets. Douglas Lockhart explored most of this walk when revising the latest edition of Landscapes of Malta, Gozo and Comino and was very unhappy with at least four locations where the path runs too close to the cliff edge. These sections are listed on pages 32 and 34 of Landscapes. In all weather conditions a mistake or a trip on the cliff path could have fatal consequences; in fading light or during spells of windy weather the risks are very considerably greater. I strongly urge Landscapers, who might be tempted to look for alternative routes to those in my book, not to use this walking leaflet. (Author, 1/18)

Car tour 1: From 21 – 28thMay, CWGC Malta celebrated the first ever War Graves Week with free guided tours of Imtarfa Military Cemetery – interesting and informative, and a site visit can easily be combined with a trip to nearby Mdina. Information panels around the site give fascinating background history and volunteer guides are on hand at set days, and by appointment to offer more detailed tours – see cwgc.org/our-war-graves-your-history/war-graves-week/war-graves-week-2022-event-list/ and timesofmalta.com/articles/view/watch-stories-of-the-dead-to-be-told-at-mtarfa-cemetery.956485 (Volunteer with Malta’s National Trust, 6/22)

Walk 3: See Car tour 1 above

Walk 4 (Malta): The White Tower has now re-opened to visitors after restoration works. It is open every Sunday from 11.00am-5.00pm an entry is 2 euros 50 cents, which includes a tour. Free to children aged 12 and under + members of The (UK) National Trust. (Volunteer with Malta’s National Trust, 3/22)

Went to Ghadira to do the number 4 hike around Marfa two days ago. Straight away when leaving the beach the Mellieha Bay resort hotel appears to have been demolished and is being redeveloped, It is impossible to walk along the acess road as it is all now fenced off. I decided to continue along the water edge outside of the fence. You eventually reach a point where large concrete blocks have been placed to stop you going any further. I decided to climb over these and continue anyway. Luckily nobody saw me as I’m sure you would be escorted away if so. You can continue along the water’s edge and there is only one safe way to get up the the trail just before disused jetty the red and white pillar. Luckily I am quite agile and have long legs so was able to climb over the large concrete blocks but this certainly isn’t a given. I continued the rest of the hike following your guide. (User, 5/24) [The simplest solution would be to stay on the bus and alight at Qammieh Roundabout (same stop as Walk 5) and walk along the ridge road until you come to the 50min point of the walk and resume walk 4 from that point. The revised walk would use the start of Short walk 2 – see p.47. (The Author, 5/24)

Walk 11 (Malta): There is a new guide to the Victoria/Dwejra Lines, which provides some interesting background history and a Sunflower-style map detailing the entire fortifications and route – see facebook.com/BDLBooks/posts/4572410859456873/ and bdlbooks.com/product/the-victoria-lines-malta/ for more details. (Volunteer with Malta’s  National Trust, 6/22)

Walks 12 and 13, Chadwick Lakes: Chadwick Lakes are currently being restored making any walks in this area inaccessible – it is unlikely that this work will be completed for a number of years. No diversions have been put in place. (User, 10/10/24)

Walk 13 (Malta): A section of the road/track adjacent to the first large lake/reservoir at the Chadwick Lakes collapsed back in November 2021, resulting in the route being impassable to walkers/drivers at the 1h-1h10min-point. If it is still impassable when you visit, turn right on the track highlighted in purple before waypoint 3, and after 650 metres fork left on a farm road (not clearly shown on our map). Follow this as it goes behind a large farmhouse and continues gently down into the valley through vineyards. You rejoin the original walk route with the hillock Il-Qola clearly visible to your right. Map link for start of the detour here goo.gl/maps/WnZfdaHW4dGbJ3HB8 (Volunteer with Malta’s  National Trust, 3/22) + See also Walk 11 above, about the new guide to the Victoria/Dwerja Lines.

I did hike 13 today from Mosta. 2.5 years later and the route is still blocked as per your update. (User, 5/24)

Walk 22: While the map clearly shows that walkers should turn right at the second inlet and set of pillboxes and a watchtower (waypoint 7), it might be worth saying in the text that it is the second inlet and set. Timings are not very helpful as people walk at different speeds, stop for photos, drinks etc. Also if anyone wishes to walk back from the end bus stop to Marsascala, workmen are busy creating a second pavement all the way back – an easy downhill stroll. (User, 3/23)

Walk 24 (Gozo): Dwejra Tower is currently closed to visitors as restoration works are taking place. The tower and will re-open sometime later in 2022 and details, along with other information about the tower /walking in the surrounding Natura 2000 site at Dwejra can be found here: facebook.com/Dwejra.tower

Xlendi Tower (the other Grand Master Lascaris tower on Gozo) is also undergoing restoration and again is closed to visitors – it is hoped that the tower will re-open in the Summer of 2022. External repair works to the tower are now completed. (Volunteer with Malta’s  National Trust, 3/22)

The road from Xlendi to the Tuta bus stop has been upgraded, probably in association with a new heritage trail, and there was plenty of space to walk along it safely. At the top of page 118 where the path via the rather soggy wied comes to a t-junction with a footpath, the problem is not quite as described. The footpath to the left used to run along the top of a little limestone escarpment which has collapsed at the junction. The footprints along the field edge were useful in showing us the diversion! In the second column on page 118, the bridge over the Wied Ilma is no longer narrow and has been widened as has some of the road… We took the bus to the Xmun bus stop just south of Xlendi. This worked well. (User, 3/23)

Walk 26 (Gozo): Ta’Sopu Tower is also now open on Wednesdays and Sundays from 9.00am-12noon and 13.30-16.00pm. Look for the red and white flag flying to indicate the tower is open. It can be visited with a short detour from the route starting at the Weraq Bus stop (Bus Route 303 via Mgarr or Victoria) and opposite the small park with benches (at the 2hrs 35 minutes mark) – it is then a 15 minute walk to the tower over reasonable tracks, but the last section requires some care, as it is over a rough track through pristine garrigue. Spectacular views of the North East Coast of Gozo and neighbouring Malta can be enjoyed from the tower roof. Free entry. (Volunteer with Malta’s  National Trust, 3/22)

We began by taking the bus to the Weraq bus stop and joining the route there; the worked well. The path past the fishermen’s huts at San Blas bay on p127 was marked Private today and was blocked by a chain before the huts and by a gate after them. Further on, also on p127, there has been road widening work  and a lot of new retaining walls built, and it was not possible to find the track on the left at point 7. (User, 3//23) [Author’s comment: Good to know of the improvements, even though they impact on the book. The collapses are a nuisance, and small collapses occur everywhere after heavy rain. The information about San Blas is concerning, and it may be that the visit to San Blas Bay becomes an optional but recommended detour and the wet weather route [foot of p.126] is adapted to become the main walk.]

Walk 27 (Comino): Both the hotel site and grounds and bungalows are undergoing extensive renovation works, so access to the coastline immediately around these areas is fenced off and inaccessible to walkers, with security personnel on site. Santa Marija Battery was recently restored and is accessible all year round without charge.

New route signage on the island has also being installed. Opening times for Comino Tower can be confirmed on the FB page or by requesting details via messenger at facebook.com/santamarijatowercomino (Volunteer with Malta’s National Trust, 3/22)