Walking in Umbria and the Marche

Walking in Umbria and the Marche

 

Walking in Umbria and the Marche: through Italy’s green heart

Umbria and the Marche, two regions nestled in the heart of Italy, offer a unique and unforgettable walking experience.

With their rolling hills, medieval towns, and charming villages, these regions offer some fantastic walking routes.

Whether you’re looking for a challenging mountain trek or a leisurely stroll through vineyards and olive groves, our guidebook to walking in Umbria and the Marche will help you get the most out of your trip.

Below we have described some of our favourite walks.

Passignano, Lake Trasimeno and Isola Maggiore (Walk 1)

From the little town of Passignano, a pleasant holiday resort on the northern shores of Lake Trasimeno, the first circuit of this walk climbs through olive groves, broom meadows and small woods to a ridge.

Looking back down from here, the wide blue lake, dotted with three tiny islands, is laid out before you.

Back at Passignano, we take the ferry to nearby Isola Maggiore. This unspoilt idyllic islet has no road traffic and only one tiny village, which we discover on the second circuit of the walk.

From Assisi across Monte Subasio to Spello (Walk 5)

Many legends tell of Saint Francis of Assisi’s love of nature and of how he withdrew into the forests of Monte Subasio for prayer and meditation.

This long hike from Assisi to the medieval town of Spello follows in his footsteps.

Past the Franciscan hermitage of Eremo delle Carceri with its ancient holm oaks, we rise up to the mountain pastures of the bleak summit ridge, from where we enjoy a superb panorama. This walk is at its best in early summer, when the wide grassy slopes are blanketed with flowers.

Through the Valnerina from Scheggino to Piedipaterno (Walk 11)

Walking is undoubtedly the best way to enjoy the idyllic scenery of the Valnerina. There’s also the steeply-sloping valley of the river Nera, with its old villages and meadows thick with wild flowers.

To see the loveliest stretch – from Ferentillo in the south, where the valley narrows almost to a gorge, to Borgo Cerreto in the north, beyond which the old trail has disappeared beneath a road – takes two days of easy walking.

The day walk described here covers the middle stretch, from Scheggino to Piedipaterno. It runs a little away above the valley. We walk through oak forests and along meadows full of gorse, with lovely views over the valley.

En route is the remote medieval village of Vallo di Nera, perched on a hill. Anywhere but in Italy, this would certainly be a well-known tourist sight!

On Monte Nerone near Piobbico (Walk 18)

On this hike we explore the varied, sometimes wild landscape on the northern slopes of Monte Nerone.

Winding streams with little waterfalls, rocky limestone cliffs and sombre little woods accompany us through the remote valleys of Fosso dell’Eremita, Fosso Pisciarello and Rio Vitoschio.

The latter is particularly idyllic. Colourful butterflies and shiny blue dragonflies buzz through the fresh green above the clear waters of the stream.

The Gola Della Rossa near Frasassi (Walk 24)

The creation of the Frasassi Nature Reserve has not prevented the construction of an expressway and the continued existence of a large quarry within the protected area.

Nevertheless some pleasant walks through unspoilt countryside still exist around the gorges of the Esino and Sentino rivers, lined by steep limestone cliffs.

This walk leads initially into the remote Valle del Vernino, with its varied vegetation and a cave leading deep into Monte Tordina.

Afterwards we climb Monte Murano for a good view over the mountainous surroundings.

Below the rocky pyramid of Monte Bove (Walk 30)

Monte Bove is probably the most impressive mountain in the entire Sibillini range. Like an Alpine limestone peak, its sheer, mighty northern rock face looms above the Ussita torrent.

This walk follows the shade of its high cliffs through the remote Val di Panico. The route leads you up to the grassy slopes of Pizzo Tre Vescovi, from where we enjoy superb views.

Because of the height gain the walk is quite strenuous. Nowhere along the route are mountaineering skills required.

Above the sea on Monte Conero (Walk 37)

The flat Adriatic coast of the Marche, with its dead straight shorelines full of holiday places, campsites and hotels is definitely not an area for lovely walks through unspoilt nature.

Only the small coastal mountain range of Monte Conero, a nature reserve on the doorstep of Ancona, breaks the scenic monotony.

This walk follows small tracks, trails and paths through typical Mediterranean macchia with evergreen shrubby woods. The sweet-scented pines and broom-filled meadows shining bright yellow in early summer.

At several points we enjoy superb views down to the sea and the steeply-dropping coastal slopes. There’s a chance to swim, too, at Sirolo’s San Michele beach.

The best time for walking in Umbria and the Marche

In the lower mountain ranges, spring (from April to midJune) and autumn (mid-September to the end of October) are the best seasons for walking.

Temperatures are pleasant and often a clear blue sky arches above the undulating hills. But be prepared for rain every now and then, especially from April to mid-May and in October. Although in general wet conditions will not last very long.

During high summer it’s often very hot: only by starting at sunrise, to be back home by noon at the latest, can a walk be enjoyed.

It’s also pleasant to walk from November to March, at least in the lower areas, if the weather is kind to you.

On the high mountains of the Apennines, especially in the Monti Sibillini, conditions are of course a bit different. You can even hike here in high summer, while in winter deep snow often covers the ground.

Getting around Umbria and the Marche

Car hire is available at all airports and also at some railway stations. Trains run from Rome to Florence via Orvieto and Terontola. From Rome they go to Ancona via Terni, Spoleto, Foligno, Fossato di Vico and Fabriano.

From Foligno there are connections to Florence via Assisi, Perugia and Lake Trasimeno. A local line connects Perugia with Todi and Terni.

On the east coast, main line trains run from Bologna to Pescara, stopping at Rimini, Pesaro, Ancona, San Benedetto del Tronto.

Taking your own car (a three-day drive from the UK) is only an option for a long visit.

Details of local buses are given with the walks.

Umbria and the Marche offer a unique and unforgettable walking experience. Buy our guidebook to walking in Umbria and the Marche and find your perfect trails to explore in this beautiful part of Italy.

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Walking in Tuscany

Walking in Tuscany

 

Walking in Tuscany: rolling hills and Medieval towns

Tuscany, with its rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves, and medieval towns, offers some fantastic walking opportunities.

Our guidebook to walking in Tuscany features walks for all abilities, from gentle strolls through charming villages to challenging hikes through the Apennine Mountains.

We cover the following regions:

• Walks north of Florence
• Walks between Florence and Siena
• Walks south of Siena
• Walks in Southern Tuscany

Below we have described some of our favourite walks.

From Bivigliano to Fiesole (Walk 1)

If you have only time to do one walk in Tuscany, then choose this one. It gives you a taste of everything these hills offer: vast panoramas of endless horizons, steep wooded hillsides, holy places, old farms, gentle olive groves, and imposing villas.

There are places to linger and look about you, and other sections where you can really get into your stride and pound down the lanes.

When you return to Florence, you can point to the distinctive shape of Monte Senario on the far horizon and say, ‘I walked from there’.

Circuit from Sant’Agata via the Apennine Ridge (Walk 5)

This walk, which follows the ‘SOFT 13 Ring’, climbs to the summit of the Apennines from the edge of the Mugello.

After a long but pleasant climb (through beech woods in the latter stage), you achieve the summit ridge path with its magnificent views. Ahead are the retreating summits of the Apennine mountain chain.

The huge fertile bowl of the Mugello is to the south, and to the north, in the direction of Bologna, are distant towns. The path is well waymarked and decorated with wild raspberries, sloe bushes and cyclamen.

It passes through meadows covered with purple crocus and snowdrops in March and blue scillas in April. At the Passo Osteria Bruciata (Burnt Inn Pass), the homeward journey begins. The path ndulates through shade down an ancient trading route back to the charming village of Sant’Agata.

Along Michelangelo’s road (Walk 6)

This wonderful introduction to the Alpi Apuane gives you an insight into the magnificence of the area and the lifestyles of inhabitants past and present.

The walk is set among low-level chestnut-covered slopes, but with awe-inspiring ridges above and fast-moving torrents below.

The cobbled mule track followed for part of the way was reputedly built by Michelangelo to bring his precious white marble down from Monte Altissimo.

For walkers, these ancient mule tracks today provide perfect links between the tiny villages with their steep labyrinthine streets the width of a donkey cart.

Monte Falco and Monte Falterona (Walk 10)

This high-level, shady walk is very enjoyable on a hot day – even in August. This area, in the Alpe di San Benedetto, is also a ski resort.

The walk has spectacular views, especially to the north. You can look over the strange desert-like mountain landscape of the neighbouring Emilia Romagna region.

Although there is plenty of climbing (two of the highest peaks in the area are climbed), there are also pleasant strolls through magical beech woods.

Seeing the source of the Arno River with its plaque bearing a quotation from Dante is also fun, even if the spring is without water!

Circuit from Gaiole (Walk 15)

The route goes via the Castello di Meleto and Barbischio.

This walk is set in the heart of Chianti and the Chianti Classico wine-growing area. The route has all the ingredients for a typical Chianti walk.

It passes a 10th-century church, a castle involved in the wars between Siena and Florence, and a medieval tower house.

It is, of course, set among a myriad of vineyards patterning the hillsides not covered with trees.

In autumn, with all the wild fruits around – blackberries, figs and grapes – the walk is a feast both metaphorically and literally.

From Pitigliano to Sovana (Walk 25)

Full of interest, this walk links a medieval town packed tight above a vertical cliff to a miniature medieval village full of charm and historic buildings.

The route is through an area rich in Etruscan remains – tombs, temples, and drainage channels cut into the rock. Much of the walk is along their sunken roads. These are worn deep into the terrain through the pressure of wheels and hooves on soft volcanic rock.

When the ruts became too deep, the humps in the middle were chiselled away, so the roads got deeper. Some roads are as much as 10m/30ft deep, although these were probably cut for ceremonial purposes rather than eroded. These deep roads are shady and cool.

As the whole walk traverses quiet landscapes rich in wild flowers, it is definitely a five-star hike!

The best time of year for walking in Tuscany

Tuscany’s weather is unpredictable; there can be snow at Easter, cool temperatures in August, or a week of rain in June.

The weather can also be extreme, with long periods of very heavy rain (especially in October and November). There are extremes of temperature in the winter and summer.

As with so much in Italy, the secret is to be flexible and well prepared. Fortunately there are plenty of museums and churches to visit, if being out-of-doors is not an option.

July and August have the most predictable weather. It is hot, sometimes very hot; thus they are the least suitable months for walking.

But by starting early in the morning, it is still possible to walk – in wooded mountain areas.

Getting around Tuscany

Almost all of the walks in our guidebook are most easily reached by car. You should also be able to reach the majority by bus (or train). But remember that on Sundays public transport is less frequent.

You will be able to obtain timetables for many buses from the larger tourist offices and the web. But he safest option is to visit the bus company itself. A good public transport app is Moovit, with real-time info.

Tuscany offers a unique and unforgettable walking experience. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a beginner, you’ll find plenty of trails to explore in this beautiful region. Buy our guidebook to walking in Tuscany.

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Walking in Slovenia

Walking in Slovenia

 

Walking in Slovenia: a land of diverse beauty

Slovenia, a small country nestled in the heart of Europe, is a hidden gem for hikers and nature lovers. With its dramatic mountains, lush forests, and crystal-clear lakes, Slovenia offers a diverse range of walking experiences for all abilities.

Whether you’re looking for a challenging mountain trek or a leisurely stroll through charming villages, our guidebook to walking in Slovenia will help you get the most out of your trip.

Below we have listed some of our favourite walks.

Circuit of Lake Bled (Walk 1)

Just as every Slovenian should climb Triglav if he is a true patriot, so should every visitor take this classic walk.

This is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. It’s a magnet for poets, artists and lovers as well as those people who live too hectic a life.

Absorb the timeless beauty and the ever-changing light playing on the water. Enjoy the tranquillity of an easy, gentle stroll that relaxes the mind and soothes the soul.

Tip: this walk is no secret, and on a lovely summer’s day literally hundreds of people will make the circuit. So get up early, see the sunrise, and have it all to yourselves.

Rudno Polje – Viševnik – Blejska Koča – Rudno Polje (Walk 6)

This walk is a good introduction to the beauty and majesty of the Julian Alps.

On the edge of these mountains, Viševnik may only be a handmaiden to old ‘Three Heads’ Triglav, but the views from this 2050m summit are some of the best and most easily gained.

Soška Pot – Trenta – Izvir Soče – Trenta (Walk 12)

This walk has it all! Stunning views of the mountains and swaying suspension bridges over the aquamarine Soča River. There’s an alpine garden, natural wonders, and shady picnic spots.

Circuit from Planina Kuhinja (Walk 15)

The route follows Planina Kuhinja – Krn – Batognica – Jezero V Lužnici – Planina Kuhinja.

This is one of our favourite days out. The slopes of Krn – one huge alpine pasture, almost devoid of trees and with sweeping vistas – are a place of timeless tranquillity.

Here the only sounds you will hear are cowbells, birdsong and the tumbling of water, and occasionally the chiming of a distant church bell.

This is a long walk, but if you are in need of spiritual renewal do not miss it.

Circuit from Ski Hotel Vogel (Walk 24)

You may not consider yourself a mountain walker, but do take the cable car to the Ski Hotel and enjoy the incredible views over Bohinjsko Jezero and to Triglav and the Julian Alps.

However, the effort of climbing to the summit of a mountain is always rewarded, and Vogel will not disappoint you!

Cerknica – Velika Slivnica – Cerknica (Walk 30)
Cerknica is famous for its nearby ‘disappearing lake’. Slivnica is a superb vantage point from which to view the immensity of this natural phenomenon.

Depending on the time of year that you visit this area, you may see hay-making in progress on the dry bed of the lake.Fishermen may be about in boats enjoying their sport.

After the initial climb, Slivnica offers an easy stroll across green pastures with the lure of a refreshing drink at the dom.

The best time of year for walking in Slovenia

The temperate climatic zone in which Slovenia lies means that the winters are cold and the summers hot. In the mountains snow can fall at any time of the year, and you may find some paths still snow-covered in early June.

The warmest months are July and August. The average temperature is around 23 degrees Celsius, but these are also the busiest times, when accommodation will be at a premium.

In May and June, while some of the higher walks may have to be discounted because of snow, the fields and valleys will be a kaleidoscope of colour and activity, and the rivers and waterfalls will be at their best.

September and October are also glorious months. The mountains are usually clear of snow, the trees are ablaze with colour, and the grape and maize harvests are in full swing.

Getting around Slovenia

While the best way to enjoy Slovenia and reach all our walks easily is by car, we have also tried to cater for those who do not have their own transport.

The provincial bus service is both reliable and reasonable, and all towns are linked by the bus network.

Some walks start from town centres, but for those in more remote locations we have always indicated if buses stop nearby.

The tourist information centres will provide you with up-to-date timetables to supplement the information on the touring map.

Taxis are only available in some towns.

For those visitors based in Ljubljana, trains and buses radiate out to all regions.

Walks around Bled and Bohinj are easily accessible as a day out from the capital.

Coach tours are less than ideal for walking, but do give an introduction to this beautiful country. Many start from Bled or Ljubljana and go to some of the areas and attractions we visit on our walks.

Slovenia is a paradise for walkers. With its diverse landscapes, charming villages, and friendly people, Slovenia offers a unique and unforgettable walking experience.

Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a beginner, you’ll find the perfect trail to explore in this beautiful country. Buy our guidebook to walking in Slovenia.

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Walking in the Scottish Highlands

Walking in the Scottish Highlands

 

The Scottish Highlands: a journey through wild landscapes

The Scottish Highlands, a vast and untamed wilderness, is a walker’s paradise. The walks in our guidebook to walking in the Scottish Highlands offer something to suit all abilities and inclinations, from sedate lochside strolls to energetic mountain climbs.

There are walks for those seeking grand views, or routes for those more interested in history, wildlife or geology. We also include several routes on the Isle of Skye.

Below we have listed some of our favourite walks in the region.

Ben Ledi (Walk 2)

Ben Ledi is the mountain by which Callander identifies itself as ‘The Gateway to the Highlands’. Certainly coming from the south or east of Scotland, the ben is very much the beginning of the mountains.

The climb to its summit is a wonderful ‘first’ for those unfamiliar with the Highlands, with strikingly contrasting views as a reward.

The Cobbler (Walk 5)

Ben Arthur, or The Cobbler as it is more commonly known, is one of the most striking mountains in the Southern Highlands.

It is very popular with Glasgow hillwalkers and climbers. Though as it fails by 30m/100ft to reach qualifying height, Munroists often ignore it in favour of other less exciting mountains of the Arrochar Alps.

It is the unusual profile of the schist outcrops on its summit ridge that have given the mountain its name. The rock strata, folded by geological forces and sculptured by millions of years of erosion, are said to resemble a cobbler bent over his last.

Glen Lyon (Walk 9)

Postcards of Glen Lyon confidently echo the assertions of locals, that theirs is ‘Scotland’s most beautiful glen’.

It is indeed a peaceful, lush and fertile haven, beautiful albeit in a tame and rustic sort of way. Very different, for instance, from the dramatic and solemn beauty of the much more popular Glen Coe.

At 48km (30 miles) from end to end, Glen Lyon is considered Scotland’s longest. This walk covers only a small part of it – to my mind the most scenically varied and picturesque section.

Ben Nevis (Walk 11)

By European standards, Ben Nevis is not a big mountain but, by virtue of being Britain’s highest, it is a huge magnet for walkers.

The main ‘tourist’ path, or ‘pony track’, up the west side of the mountain is easy to follow. This ascent involves no technical difficulty. Whilst children frequently make it to the top in trainers, such indifference is not to be recommended.

There are more fatalities on Ben Nevis than on any other mountain in Britain. Although it is true that most accidents befall overambitious rock climbers scaling cliffs on the mountain’s northeast face.

However, the potential for serious hazards, on a summit obscured by cloud nine days in every ten and which records an average mean temperature of just below freezing, is very real indeed.

Do not be deceived by a clear sunny day in Fort William. Always carry plenty of warm clothing and be prepared to make a hasty retreat if conditions on the mountain deteriorate. Never underestimate Ben Nevis.

Cairn Gorm & Ben Macdui (Walk 20)

The romance of the Cairngorms, when expressed in verse, often disguises a potentially-hostile environment. Here lies the highest land mass in Scotland, and nowhere else in Britain is there such a large tract of arctic terrain.

In recognition of the importance of the rare flora and fauna of the Cairngorms, the plateau is within the boundaries of Britain’s largest nature reserve and at the heart of this National Park.

Snow flurries can occur in July, but in good weather it is very rewarding to venture beyond Cairn Gorm itself, to the other peaks of the range.

Proceeding to the summit of Ben Macdui requires an awareness of the potential hazards. You’ll also need an investment of energy, but otherwise the walk is not difficult.

Loch Coruisk and Glen Sligachan (Walk 25)

The Cuillin of Skye is, by common consent, the grandest mountain range in the British Isles. Attaining any one of its jagged peaks involves tough challenges. Together with navigational problems and unreliable compass readings (due to iron in the rock), just about all routes on them are beyond the parameters of this book.

Arduous scrambling and climbing over hard, bare rock is the order of the day on the Black Cuillin. It takes its name from the black gabbro from which this range is formed.

Mountain summits aside, our route includes probably the finest coastal walk in Britain. It also visits a remote loch in the most spectacular setting imaginable and provides an ever-changing perspective on the awe-inspiring Cuillin.

The best time of year for walking in the Scottish Highlands

It is often said that whereas other countries have climate, Scotland has weather. The main feature of Highland weather is changeability.

Highlanders will say to you that ‘if you do not like a particular season, wait an hour and another will come along’. Indeed, when climbing in the hills, it is not unusual to feel that you have experienced all four seasons in a single day!

Scottish weather is notoriously unpredictable but, on balance, the longest spells of dry and settled weather usually occur in the months of May and September.

Getting around the Scottish Highlands

Using public transport in the Scottish Highlands can be an extremely frustrating and very time-consuming way of getting about.

It is also an expensive way to travel compared to many other parts of Europe. That said, the pace of bus travel in the Highlands can have its own joys.

But if you would rather spend the bulk of your limited time exploring the Highlands on foot, and at your own pace, then the use of a car is essential.

The Scottish Highlands have dramatic mountains a rugged coastline, and endless lochs. These all create a unique and unforgettable walking experience.

Whether you are a seasoned hiker or a beginner, there will be a trail to suit your ability and interests. Buy our guidebook to walking in the Scottish Highlands.

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Walking in Northern Portugal

Walking in northern Portugal

 

Adventure in Northern Portugal

Northern Portugal is a region of rugged beauty, rich history and superb walking trails.

From the dramatic mountains of Peneda-Gerês National Park to the lush Costa Verde, you can find it in our guidebook to walking in Northern Portugal.

Below we have described some of our favourite walks in the region.

Serra de Arga (Walk 1)

The Serra de Arga is a small but striking range of mountains on the north side of the river Lima between Viana do Castelo and Ponte de Lima.

Composed of granite, and with a treeless summit reaching almost 800m, it looks like a huge barren flat-topped mound. But it has the distinction of being highly visible for miles around.

This walk will show you that the Serra de Arga is not as barren as it appears from a distance. Right from the start, you climb through woods, and further on encounter old watermills dotted along the streams.

As you climb higher the landscape becomes harsher, with granite peaks and tors providing a natural exhibition of surreal sculptures. At the highest point on the main walk you will get extensive views down to the coast.

From here you could take a detour to an interesting old monastery, São João d’Arga, before returning and rejoining the main route.

The last stretch takes you alongside a beautiful gorge on the river Âncora.

São Miguel circuit (Walk 3)

The route follows São Miguel – Sobredo – Germil – Froufe – São Miguel

Sobredo, Germil, São Miguel are names that roll easily off the tongue, and the images that spring to mind become magical with the passage of time.

Time is the key, for these villages seem to have settled for an existence in an age long since past. Their granite houses, their farming methods, and their mode of life have changed little with the passing of years.

But these villages are just an added bonus to a walk which explores a very scenic region. The route is partially waymarked red/white beyond Germil (GR34).

Brufe circuit (Walk 6)

The route follows Brufe – Casarotas – Chã do Sagueiral – Marco de Anta – Cortinhas – Brufe

Just in front of the Artesanato shop (closed at present, soon to reopen) there is a sign. It reads ‘In 1706 Brufe did not send men to fight in the war, but defended the homeland from here.’

This walk will take you up to the ‘front line’ of defence that the men from this village patrolled in their constant vigil against their Galician neighbours.

You can also explore further on the high ground reached and see an example of a wolf trap.

Bouças Donas circuit (Walk 8)

The route follows Bouças Donas – Branda de Bostejões – Vitoreira – Bostelinhos – Bouças Donas

Variety and points of interest are the highlights of this walk. After an initial climb of almost 200m, you head along the northwest side of a long ridge, before dropping down 450m into the village of Vitoreira.

Climbing steadily, the route then follows a line of old villages, as you circle the ridge to return to the start. Vitoreira is typical of many of the isolated villages of the region which rely solely on their own farming for survival.

Vines for vinho verde are an important crop, as they are throughout the region. In springtime it is always pleasing to see the vines breaking into new leaf. This gives a fresh green look to brighten up the sombre granite houses and give anticipation for the fruit to come.

Saojo – Murça – Saojo (Walk 10)

Soajo is a fascinating and thriving village which attracts visitors. They’re particularly here to see the espigueiros, the granite-built grain stores. These are imposingly grouped together around an open area of rock (used as a threshing and drying floor). It is worth a stop as you drive past to see them.

This circular walk explores the steep valley running north from where the car is parked and down which flows the river Adrão. Scenic interest is not lacking at any stage.

Heading first up the left bank, the river is crossed on stepping-stones by old farm buildings. There is a long climb up the other side of the valley to the farming community of Murça.

Careful navigation through the maze of trails surrounding Soajo is needed to get back to the car.

The best time of year for walking in Northern Portugal

Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October) are generally considered the best times to walk in northern Portugal.

In spring you can enjoy mild temperatures, blooming wildflowers, and lush green landscapes.

During the autumn, experience the vibrant fall foliage, crisp air, and fewer walkers.

Getting around the region

There is a good express bus system in Northern Portugal, with frequent services to the major towns. This is useful if you want to travel from Viana down to Porto, for example. However, the limitations of the railways (slow) and local bus service are soon realised when you want to explore the countryside.

Buses do run along the Lima Valley as far as Arcos de Valdevez, but beyond that you need private transport.

Taxis are available in the major centres, but the distances involved to get you to the start of a walk could be long. In some cases, taxis could be used in conjunction with buses, but you must arrange to be met for the return. Sharing a taxi with friends will obviously reduce the cost.

Car hire, or taking your own car is, however, by far the best option for convenience.

In summary

Walking in northern Portugal is an unforgettable experience. With its stunning scenery, friendly locals, and rich culture, this region offers a truly unique walking adventure. Buy our guidebook to walking in Northern Portugal.

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Walking on Jersey

Walking in Jersey

 

Walking on the Channel Island of Jersey

The Channel Island of Jersey, located just off the coast of France, has some fantastic walking. Use our guidebook to walking on Jersey to discover its dramatic coastline, rolling countryside, and charming villages, with walks for all levels of ability.

Below we have described some of our favourite walks on the island.

Noirmont and Portelet Bay (Walk 3)
This is a fairly short circular walk, although if you take in the optional visit to Portelet Beach, you’ll need stamina for the stiff climb back up the ‘never-ending’ steps.

You can, however, enjoy some fine views of St Aubin’s Bay and Portelet Bay without descending to the beach.

After your walk – or before descending to the beach – the Old Portelet Inn is an ideal place to take on some sustaining refreshment.

The Corbière walk (Walk 4)

It’s a long time since a steam railway operated from St Helier via St Aubin, along the wide bay, to La Corbière lighthouse, one of Jersey’s most visited landmarks.

The old route makes an excellent, easy walk. I have varied the route from the signposted walk (extending the total distance slightly). This gives you much finer views and a close look at a sand-dune environment, as well as some prehistoric standing stones.

Birdwatchers could find this route a happy twitching ground, for woodpecker and warbler, wader and finch.

The Pinnacle (Walk 6)

Witchcraft and pagan rituals have made their mark on Jersey’s history. While researching this book, I exercised my usual traveller’s curiosity at most relevant sites, without being turned into a toad or even faintly discomfited.

But there is something disturbing about this particular windswept cliff-top, with its Nazi detritus and the claustrophobic amphitheatre. See what you think.

For good measure there’s Grosnez ‘Castle’, the ruins of a 14th-century defence against the French. They were demonstrably given to looting, pillaging, arson, rape, and murder on many a bloodthirsty ‘away-day’.

Around St Martin and Rozel (Walk 9)

This delightful inland walk takes you through woodland and along quiet country roads and paths flanked by carpets of wild flowers.

It also visits the seaside village of Rozel and the Dolmen du Couperon.

Jersey War Tunnels (Walk 13)

First-time visitors to Jersey are often surprised to discover the extent and legacy of the five-year Occupation (1940-45).

The story is no more vividly told than at the Jersey War Tunnels. This massive complex was built when the Germans entrenched themselves in the Channel Islands, believing them to be stepping stones to a full invasion of the UK.

A visit to the tunnels will amaze you. Hitler never felt the island sunshine himself, but his command HQ was not far away. You’ll pass it on this walk. Everything remains as it was when the occupying forces left.

This major tourist attraction vividly brings to life the incredible achievement of the architect and slaves who worked in appalling conditions to complete the project. The entry fee includes various multimedia exhibitions.

The walk passes the entrance; allow extra time for this highly recommended visit

The best time of year to walk on Jersey

The best time to walk on Jersey is during the spring and autumn months (April-May and September-October).

During these shoulder seasons, the weather is mild, the crowds are smaller, and the island is at its most beautiful with blooming wildflowers or vibrant fall foliage.

Getting around the island

Jersey is a small island, and it is easy to get around by public transport or car. The island has a good network of buses that connect all the major towns and villages.

There is also a regular ferry service to and from the neighbouring island of Guernsey.

Jersey is a great destination for walkers. With its stunning scenery, diverse walking routes, and friendly locals, it is also the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Buy our guidebook to walking on Jersey.

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Walking in the Bernese Oberland & Valais

Walking in the Bernese Oberland and Valais

 

An adventure in the Bernese Oberland & Valais

The Bernese Oberland and Valais regions of Switzerland offer dramatic Alpine scenery, charming villages, and a wealth of walking trails.

Our guidebook to walking in the Bernese Oberland & Valais gives you an introduction to the best walks in each of these popular regions.

Below we have described some of our favourite walks:

First, Faulhorn and Schynige Platte (Walk 1)

This walk is a classic in the Bernese Oberland, and rightfully so. Legion are the hikers who cross from First to Schynige Platte (or vice versa) – among some of the most splendid scenery in the Alps.

This high traverse runs entirely above the tree line, so pay attention to the weather forecast when you choose your day!

Eigertrail (Walk 3)

The Eiger north face of the ‘triumvirate’ Eiger (3970m), Mönch (4107m) and Jungfrau (4158m) is one of the world’s most famous walls.

No rock face has more recorded history of tragedy and triumph. The walk described below is among the finest in the Alps.

Undertaking the entire hike is strenuous, although not particularly difficult. But it can easily be broken into various stretches that allow the epicure to savour one of the greatest Alpine experiences at a leisurely pace.

Schilthorn (Walk 5)

Schilthorn rose to world fame as the film location for the James Bond film ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’. A 10-minute clip from the film can be seen at the revolving restaurant on top of Schilthorn.

But even without 007, Schilthorn is a mountain not to be missed. The 360° view from the summit is among the most fabulous in the Alps.

The restaurant at the top goes through one revolution per hour, allowing you to watch 200 mountain peaks pass by while you relax from the ascent. Only a few hardy hikers walk up here from Mürren, but naturally throngs come up by cable car.

Great St-Bernard Pass (Walk 7)

The Great St-Bernard Pass (2469m; Col du Grand St Bernard in French, Colle del Gran San Bernardo in Italian) connects Switzerland and Italy.

It’s the most ancient pass through the Western Alps, travelled by pilgrims, traders and entire armies – from Julius Caesar to Napoleon, who crossed the pass into Italy in 1800 with 40,000 men.

Napoleon’s bill with the hospice was not settled until 1984! At this time French President Mitterand made a token gesture (see plaque in Bourg-St-Pierre).

A hospice on the pass for travellers, founded almost a thousand years ago in 1049, is still operational. There is a museum and a kennel for the famous St-Bernard dogs (open daily June-September).

This is a fantastic hike above the treeline: lakes and mountain passes amidst majestic scenery in an historic setting.

Grande Dixence Dam (Walk 10)

Driving up the Val d’Hérémence, you suddenly see an immense structure at the head of the valley – the Barrage de la Grande Dixence.

The Grande Dixence is one of the world’s highest dams. From its base you stare up at this 285m-high (1000ft-high!) wall of concrete in disbelief.

If you do the longer walk to the top of Mont Blava, the view from the peak lets you take in the true dimensions of the Lac des Dix, the artificial lake held back by the dam, set amidst delightful Alpine scenery.

Höhbalmen Ridge Path (Walk 13)

Matterhorn – magical, mysterious, miraculous, marvellous, magnificent, moving.

The Höhbalmen ridge path is a classic walk with breath-taking views over the whole of the Zermatt Valley. From the Mischabel range as far as the Monte Rosa and Breithorn massifs, with the famous Matterhorn north face staring you straight in the face.

As on the north face of the Eiger, fame and tragedy go hand-in-hand on the Matterhorn.

One of Zermatt’s mountain guides became a celebrity: Ulrich Inderbinen (1900-2004), who was still climbing the Matterhorn at the age of 90. His grave is in Zermatt’s cemetery.

Gornergrat Traverse (Walk 14)

Gornergrat is Zermatt’s most popular destination. It’s one of the most famous, awe-inspiring and humbling vistas in the Alps – if not the world.

About two-thirds of Swiss mountains above 4000m are almost within reach – from the gigantic icy masses of the Monte Rosa massif just opposite in the south or the Matterhorn to the west.

Aletsch Glacier and Eggishorn (Walk 19)

The Aletsch Glacier is the largest glacier in the Alps. It covers about 120km sq km, is more than 20km long and has an ice cover more than 900m deep.

The Jungfrau/Aletsch/Bietschhorn UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site is (to quote UNESCO) ‘the most glaciated part of the Alps, containing Europe’s largest glacier and a range of classic glacial features such as U-shaped valleys, cirques, horn peaks and moraines’.

The best time for walking in the Bernese Oberland & Valais

The best time to walk in the Bernese Oberland and Valais is during the summer months, from June to September.

The weather is mild and dry, with long days and plenty of sunshine. However, even in the shoulder seasons of May and October, the weather can be pleasant, and there are fewer crowds.

Getting around the region

The Bernese Oberland and Valais have an excellent public transport system, making it easy to explore without a car. Trains, buses, and cable cars connect all the major towns and villages.

Of course, a car offers more flexibility and allows you to explore more remote areas. However, parking can be challenging, especially in popular tourist destinations.

Driving in the mountains can also be tiring, with narrow roads and hairpin bends.

With our guidebook to walking in the Bernese Oberland & Valais you’ll have an unforgettable experience. The stunning scenery, charming villages and diverse walking trails offer something for every type of walker.

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Walking the Italian Lakes

Walking the Italian Lakes

 

Adventures at the Italian Lakes

The Italian Lakes, a shimmering necklace of emerald and sapphire set amongst dramatic Alpine peaks, offer a walker’s paradise.

From the grandeur of Lake Maggiore to the intimate charm of Lake Orta, each lake boasts unique beauty and a wealth of walking trails to explore.

In our guidebook to walking the Italian Lakes, we cover the following areas:

• Lake Maggiore
• Lake Lugano
• Lake Como
• Lake Garda
• Lake Orta

Below we have described some of our favourite walks.

From Cannero Riviera to Cannobio (Walk 2)

Enjoying the scenic ferry ride between the attractive lakeside towns of Cannobio and Cannero Riviera is a great way to start the day.

On this walk you can look down over the island castles and explore a hillside village that belongs to another age.

There are fine viewpoints as you hike through the shady woodlands, making this an ideal short outing when the weather is hot.

Circuit from Agrano via Alpe Selviana (Walk 10)

An easy walk that is a real gem! A beautiful river cascades into sparkling pools – perfect for a cooling dip, so take your swimsuit.

Later, a steep climb brings you to a marvellous viewpoint above Lake Orta – what more could a relatively short walk provide?

Monte Grona (and Monte Bregagno) (Walk 13)

Climbing the steep mountain slopes to the craggy summit of Monte Grona is a challenge amply rewarded by stunning panoramic views.

If you’re here on a clear day, we highly recommend wandering on and up beyond San Amate towards Monte Bregagno on the superb flower-strewn ridge that follows.

Sentiero del Viandante (Walk 19)

On this walk we take you along part of the long-distance footpath, the Sentiero del Viandante, which runs above the lakeside villages from just north of Lecco to near Colico.

We explore the section that links Bellano, famous for its gorges, with Varenna, an old medieval town with a pretty square and narrow cobbled streets.

We describe the route from Bellano to Varenna, but the route can easily be reversed. To top it all you can enjoy a lovely, relaxing ferry ride back to your resort.

Around Monte Brione (Walk 25)

The wedge-shaped rocky outcrop of Monte Brione at the head of Lake Garda, which separates Riva del Garda from Torbole, cannot be missed.

Left behind by the glacier that carved out the lake, this hill offers excellent views along Lake Garda and, to the north, up the Sarca Valley.

Monte Brione’s strategic position is such that it has several ruined forts, tunnels and bunkers along its length, but today all is peaceful.

This walk along the ridge is full of interest. The return, through the quiet agricultural valley, is in stark contrast to the busy coastal resorts.

Monte Caplone (Walk 35)

What a fine mountain walk this is! From the attractive hamlet of Cima Rest, you walk up past traditional steep-roofed hay barns and on to the high summer grazings of Cima Tombea amidst a great variety and proliferation of wild flowers.

Monte Caplone has many faces, the easily gained summit contrasting with the sheer cliffs, dramatic spurs and spires seen on the approach.

The best time of year for walking the Italian Lakes

Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October) are generally considered the best times to walk around the Italian Lakes.

In spring the temperatures are mild, there are blooming wildflowers and lush green landscapes.

Visit in autumn to experience the vibrant fall foliage, crisp air, and fewer crowds.

Getting around the region

The Italian Lakes are well-connected by public transport, making it easy to explore without a car. Frequent buses connect towns along the lakeshores, and trains offer scenic journeys between major towns.

Ferries provide convenient access to many lakeside villages and islands.

While a car offers flexibility, parking can be challenging, especially during peak season. Driving in the mountains can also be tiring, with narrow roads and hairpin bends.

Walking the Italian Lakes is an unforgettable experience. With stunning scenery, charming towns, and diverse walking trails, this region offers something for every type of walker. Buy our guidebook to walking the Italian Lakes.

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