Walking in Umbria and the Marche: through Italy’s green heart
Umbria and the Marche, two regions nestled in the heart of Italy, offer a unique and unforgettable walking experience.
With their rolling hills, medieval towns, and charming villages, these regions offer some fantastic walking routes.
Whether you’re looking for a challenging mountain trek or a leisurely stroll through vineyards and olive groves, our guidebook to walking in Umbria and the Marche will help you get the most out of your trip.
Below we have described some of our favourite walks.
Passignano, Lake Trasimeno and Isola Maggiore (Walk 1)
From the little town of Passignano, a pleasant holiday resort on the northern shores of Lake Trasimeno, the first circuit of this walk climbs through olive groves, broom meadows and small woods to a ridge.
Looking back down from here, the wide blue lake, dotted with three tiny islands, is laid out before you.
Back at Passignano, we take the ferry to nearby Isola Maggiore. This unspoilt idyllic islet has no road traffic and only one tiny village, which we discover on the second circuit of the walk.
From Assisi across Monte Subasio to Spello (Walk 5)
Many legends tell of Saint Francis of Assisi’s love of nature and of how he withdrew into the forests of Monte Subasio for prayer and meditation.
This long hike from Assisi to the medieval town of Spello follows in his footsteps.
Past the Franciscan hermitage of Eremo delle Carceri with its ancient holm oaks, we rise up to the mountain pastures of the bleak summit ridge, from where we enjoy a superb panorama. This walk is at its best in early summer, when the wide grassy slopes are blanketed with flowers.
Through the Valnerina from Scheggino to Piedipaterno (Walk 11)
Walking is undoubtedly the best way to enjoy the idyllic scenery of the Valnerina. There’s also the steeply-sloping valley of the river Nera, with its old villages and meadows thick with wild flowers.
To see the loveliest stretch – from Ferentillo in the south, where the valley narrows almost to a gorge, to Borgo Cerreto in the north, beyond which the old trail has disappeared beneath a road – takes two days of easy walking.
The day walk described here covers the middle stretch, from Scheggino to Piedipaterno. It runs a little away above the valley. We walk through oak forests and along meadows full of gorse, with lovely views over the valley.
En route is the remote medieval village of Vallo di Nera, perched on a hill. Anywhere but in Italy, this would certainly be a well-known tourist sight!
On Monte Nerone near Piobbico (Walk 18)
On this hike we explore the varied, sometimes wild landscape on the northern slopes of Monte Nerone.
Winding streams with little waterfalls, rocky limestone cliffs and sombre little woods accompany us through the remote valleys of Fosso dell’Eremita, Fosso Pisciarello and Rio Vitoschio.
The latter is particularly idyllic. Colourful butterflies and shiny blue dragonflies buzz through the fresh green above the clear waters of the stream.
The Gola Della Rossa near Frasassi (Walk 24)
The creation of the Frasassi Nature Reserve has not prevented the construction of an expressway and the continued existence of a large quarry within the protected area.
Nevertheless some pleasant walks through unspoilt countryside still exist around the gorges of the Esino and Sentino rivers, lined by steep limestone cliffs.
This walk leads initially into the remote Valle del Vernino, with its varied vegetation and a cave leading deep into Monte Tordina.
Afterwards we climb Monte Murano for a good view over the mountainous surroundings.
Below the rocky pyramid of Monte Bove (Walk 30)
Monte Bove is probably the most impressive mountain in the entire Sibillini range. Like an Alpine limestone peak, its sheer, mighty northern rock face looms above the Ussita torrent.
This walk follows the shade of its high cliffs through the remote Val di Panico. The route leads you up to the grassy slopes of Pizzo Tre Vescovi, from where we enjoy superb views.
Because of the height gain the walk is quite strenuous. Nowhere along the route are mountaineering skills required.
Above the sea on Monte Conero (Walk 37)
The flat Adriatic coast of the Marche, with its dead straight shorelines full of holiday places, campsites and hotels is definitely not an area for lovely walks through unspoilt nature.
Only the small coastal mountain range of Monte Conero, a nature reserve on the doorstep of Ancona, breaks the scenic monotony.
This walk follows small tracks, trails and paths through typical Mediterranean macchia with evergreen shrubby woods. The sweet-scented pines and broom-filled meadows shining bright yellow in early summer.
At several points we enjoy superb views down to the sea and the steeply-dropping coastal slopes. There’s a chance to swim, too, at Sirolo’s San Michele beach.
The best time for walking in Umbria and the Marche
In the lower mountain ranges, spring (from April to midJune) and autumn (mid-September to the end of October) are the best seasons for walking.
Temperatures are pleasant and often a clear blue sky arches above the undulating hills. But be prepared for rain every now and then, especially from April to mid-May and in October. Although in general wet conditions will not last very long.
During high summer it’s often very hot: only by starting at sunrise, to be back home by noon at the latest, can a walk be enjoyed.
It’s also pleasant to walk from November to March, at least in the lower areas, if the weather is kind to you.
On the high mountains of the Apennines, especially in the Monti Sibillini, conditions are of course a bit different. You can even hike here in high summer, while in winter deep snow often covers the ground.
Getting around Umbria and the Marche
Car hire is available at all airports and also at some railway stations. Trains run from Rome to Florence via Orvieto and Terontola. From Rome they go to Ancona via Terni, Spoleto, Foligno, Fossato di Vico and Fabriano.
From Foligno there are connections to Florence via Assisi, Perugia and Lake Trasimeno. A local line connects Perugia with Todi and Terni.
On the east coast, main line trains run from Bologna to Pescara, stopping at Rimini, Pesaro, Ancona, San Benedetto del Tronto.
Taking your own car (a three-day drive from the UK) is only an option for a long visit.
Details of local buses are given with the walks.
Umbria and the Marche offer a unique and unforgettable walking experience. Buy our guidebook to walking in Umbria and the Marche and find your perfect trails to explore in this beautiful part of Italy.
More Articles
Walking in Umbria and the Marche
Walking in Umbria and the Marche: through Italy’s green heart Umbria and the Marche, [...]
Feb
Walking in Tuscany
Walking in Tuscany: rolling hills and Medieval towns Tuscany, with its rolling hills, vineyards, [...]
Feb
Walking in Slovenia
Walking in Slovenia: a land of diverse beauty Slovenia, a small country nestled in [...]
Feb
Walking in the Scottish Highlands
The Scottish Highlands: a journey through wild landscapes The Scottish Highlands, a vast and [...]
Feb
Walking in Northern Portugal
Adventure in Northern Portugal Northern Portugal is a region of rugged beauty, rich history [...]
Jan
Walking on Jersey
Walking on the Channel Island of Jersey The Channel Island of Jersey, located just [...]
Jan
Walking in the Bernese Oberland & Valais
An adventure in the Bernese Oberland & Valais The Bernese Oberland and Valais regions [...]
Jan
Walking the Italian Lakes
Adventures at the Italian Lakes The Italian Lakes, a shimmering necklace of emerald and [...]
Jan
Walking on Guernsey
Walking on the island of Guernsey The island of Guernsey, located in the English [...]
Jan
Walking in Ireland
Walking on the Emerald Isle Ireland, with its rolling hills, rugged coastlines and charming [...]
Jan
Walking on Lesvos
Discover the hidden gems of Lesvos Lesvos, a picturesque Greek island in the Aegean [...]
Jan
Walking in Ibiza & Formentera
Island walking and cycling on Ibiza and Formentera Ibiza and Formentera, two stunning islands [...]
Jan
Walking in Eastern Provence
Discover Eastern Provence Eastern Provence, a sun-kissed region in southeastern France, offers a diverse [...]
Jan
Walking in Croatia
Discover Croatia’s hidden gems on foot Croatia, a stunning country with a diverse landscape, [...]
Jan
Walking in Cinque Terre
Discover the coastal charms of Cinque Terre and the Riviera di Levante The stunning [...]
Jan
Walking in Western Provence
Wanderlust in Western Provence Western Provence, a region of sun-drenched landscapes, historic villages, and [...]
Dec
Walking on the Costa Blanca
Walking on the Costa Blanca – a Mediterranean delight The Costa Blanca, Spain’s sun-kissed [...]
Dec
Walking in Eastern Crete
Walking in Eastern Crete – a journey through time Eastern Crete, a land of [...]
Dec
Walking in the Pyrenees
The Pyrenees – a mountainous adventure The Pyrenees, a majestic mountain range that forms [...]
Dec
Walking on Sicily
Discovering the walking trails of Sicily Sicily, a sun-kissed island off the southern tip [...]
Dec
Walking on Menorca
Discovering the landscape of Menorca on foot Menorca, a tranquil Balearic island off the [...]
Dec
Walking in the Algarve
The Algarve – a coastal paradise for walkers The Algarve, Portugal’s sun-drenched southern coast, [...]
Dec
Walking on the Costa Brava
Discover the Costa Brava The Costa Brava, a stunning stretch of coastline in northeastern [...]
Nov
Walking in Western Crete
Western Crete – an unspoiled haven for walkers Western Crete, a rugged and unspoiled [...]
Nov
Walking on Corfu
The diverse landscapes of Corfu Corfu, a jewel in the Ionian Sea, is not [...]
Nov
Walking in the Picos de Europa
Conquer the Picos de Europa! The Picos de Europa, a dramatic mountain range in [...]
Nov
Walking in the Azores
Discover the best walking trails in the Azores The Azores, a stunning archipelago in [...]
Nov
Walking in the Basque Country
Discover the magic of the Basque Country The Basque Country, a captivating region nestled [...]
Nov
Walking on Fuerteventura: an introduction
Fuerteventura: a walker’s paradise Fuerteventura, the second-largest of the Canary Islands, is a hiker’s [...]
Nov
Walking on Tenerife: an introduction
Walking on Tenerife: a paradise for hikers Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, [...]
Nov
A guide to climbing Teide on Tenerife
Conquering Tenerife’s Teide: a guide to summiting Spain’s highest peak Tenerife, the largest of [...]
Nov
Walking highlights of Malta & Gozo
The islands of Malta and Gozo Malta and Gozo, two small islands in the [...]
Nov
Walking highlights of Mallorca
A hidden gem in the Balearics The Balearic island of Mallorca, often associated with [...]
Nov
The highlights of walking in Andalucía
Walking through Andalucía Andalucía, with its rich history, culture, and diverse landscapes, is a [...]
Nov
An introduction to walking in the Dolomites
Walking in the Dolomites The Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are a mountain [...]
Nov
Walking highlights of Paxos
Walking on Paxos: a guide to the Green Island Paxos, a small island in [...]
Nov
Walking the best trails in Southern Cyprus
Hiking the mountains and coastline of Southern Cyprus Southern Cyprus, with its diverse landscapes, [...]
Nov
Walking in Sorrento, Amalfi and Capri
An introduction to walking in Sorrento, Amalfi, and Capri The Amalfi coast, a UNESCO [...]
Nov
The crystal-clear waters of Zákynthos
The underwater beauty of Zákynthos In our guidebook Zákynthos, A Complete Guide with Walks, [...]
Nov
Too hot to walk on Zákynthos?
Walking on Zákynthos in the summer Sometimes the summer heat on Zákynthos makes walking [...]
Nov
Walking on Sardinia: an introduction
Sardinia: a hiker’s paradise Sardinia, a Mediterranean island known for its stunning beaches, crystal-clear [...]
Nov
Walking on Corsica: an introduction
Corsica: a walker’s paradise Corsica, a Mediterranean island known for its rugged beauty and [...]
Nov
The Timanfaya guided walk on Lanzarote
Exploring Lanzarote’s volcanic landscape: the Timanfaya guided walk Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands, [...]
Oct
Walking in the Southern Peloponnese
A walking odyssey in the Greece The southern Peloponnese, in Greece, is a hidden [...]
Oct
Walking and eating in and around Nice
Nice: a perfect destination for winter walking Nice, a vibrant city on the French [...]
Oct
Cider houses of the Basque country
Sagardotegiak – Basque cider houses The beautiful Basque coastal city of San Sebastián (or [...]
Oct
Discovering the flysch in the Basque Country
Discovering the flysch rock formations When walking in the Basque Country, don’t miss the [...]
Oct
A Roman town in Provence
Glanum – a Roman town in Provence If you are walking in Provence you [...]
Oct
Walking on Gran Canaria: an introduction
Gran Canaria: a continent in miniature Gran Canaria, the third-largest of the Canary Islands, [...]
Oct
Walking on La Gomera: an introduction
La Gomera: a walking wonderland La Gomera, one of the smaller Canary Islands, is [...]
Oct
Walking on La Palma & El Hierro: an introduction
La Palma and El Hierro: hiking havens in the Canary Islands La Palma and [...]
Oct
Walking on Lanzarote: an introduction
Lanzarote: a volcanic paradise for walkers Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands, is [...]
Oct
Buy Sunflower: this is why…
Over 40 years of experience in each guide Sunflower has been producing guides for [...]
Oct
Walking on Madeira: an introduction
Madeira: a stunning destination for walkers Madeira lies in the Atlantic Ocean off the [...]
Oct
Walking on the Canary Islands
The Canary Islands: a paradise for hikers The Canary Islands are a volcanic archipelago [...]
Sep
The Titsa bus service on Tenerife
Navigating Tenerife: a guide to the Titsa bus service Tenerife, the largest of the [...]
Sep
Walking and eating in and around Avignon
A culinary and walking adventure in Provence Provence, a region in southern France renowned [...]
Sep
Walking in the Tatra Mountains of Poland & Slovakia
A walking adventure in the Tatra Mountains The Tatra Mountains, straddling the border between [...]
Sep
Walking in Eastern Crete in October
Eastern Crete in October: a walker’s paradise Eastern Crete, with its rugged mountains, pristine [...]
Sep
The Southern Peloponnese – a walkers’ paradise
A Walking Odyssey in the Southern Peloponnese The southern Peloponnese, Greece, is a hidden [...]
Sep
