Walking on Lesvos

Walking in Lesvos

 

Discover the hidden gems of Lesvos

Lesvos, a picturesque Greek island in the Aegean Sea, is a hidden gem waiting to be explored.

With its stunning coastline, lush olive groves, and charming villages, it offers a diverse range of walking.

Our guidebook to walking on Lesvos is your perfect companion.

Below is a selection of walks from our book.

Karini Circuit – Walk 1

Karini is barely a settlement but is famous for its deeply shaded tavern, particularly popular in summer.

Karini’s claim to fame is the hollow tree believed to be the summer home of Theofilos, the painter, who died in 1934.

His colourful paintings were primitive but, nevertheless, he became quite famous and his paintings now command huge prices.

This walk makes good use of old cobbled trails which punctuate the hillside around these mountains.

The first part takes you up to the old village of Asomatos and a second trail leads down to an old olive oil factory from where a riverside path takes you back to Karini.

Thermi Circuit via Panagia – Walk 3

This walk meanders gently through delightful countryside. Its archaeological theme gives it an added dimension, and there is more than enough to satisfy the amateur historical detective.

The whole area bristles with ancient material incorporated into later buildings, and the archaeological site of Thermi is unmissable.

Circuit from Agiassos via the Sanatorio – Walk 7

The first part of this walk, the woodland loop, is especially beautiful. The flowers are outstanding in springtime, and many of the island’s specialities grow in this area.

Fritillaria pontica is one of the delightful finds, but there are orchids too – like the pale yellow Orchis provincialis.

All the shade and atmosphere of the woodland disappears as you climb up to the Sanatorio.

The flowers do not disappear, but suddenly there are open views across to the Gulf of Gera and beyond.

Ascent of Mount Olympos – Walk 8

Mount Olympos is one of two mountains on Lesvos rising to an altitude of 968m/3178ft. It shares this distinction with the Vigla peak on Mount Lepetimnos.

But they are very different mountains. Olympos sports a huge bare limestone cap which is a landmark seen from many parts of the island.

The lower parts of this mountain are richly covered in vegetation, chestnut forest, pine forest and olive groves, and the whole of this massive provides some of the best walking on the island.

Mount Lepetimnos is more volcanic in nature and comparatively barren, although the lower slopes do support olive groves.

Like all summits these days, Olympos is forested with masts and aerials, but they only spoil the view of it and not from it.

Asomatos Mountain Circuit – Walk 11

A number of our walks pass through Asomatos but this time we have used it as a starting point.

The mountainous area in this region hides a multitude of footpaths, trails and tracks used as communication routes and for access to olive groves.

This assembly of some of the best footpaths and trails on the island makes for a short but exhilarating scenic walk with tough challenges.

Asomatos is a pretty village worth exploration but it’s now much quieter than in the past, as the younger population has had to move away for work.

The Greeks still remain firmly attached to their family villages and many use their old village homes for holidays.

Circuit from Vatera via Profitis Ilias and Cape Fokas – Walk 18

A little white church perched on top of a hill is usually an irresistible challenge to walkers.

You can guess at two things. It will be called Profitis Ilias and will have brilliant views. Your guesses would be absolutely right in this case; it’s a magical location.

The second feature on this walk, Cape Fokas, is a local beauty spot. Just below, on the eastern side, is a small but picturesque fishing harbour and a taverna.

The taverna, extremely popular with the locals, opens from Easter onwards. Bird-watchers love this point too – it’s a great place to watch for sea birds.

The best time of year for walking on Lesvos

The ideal time to walk on Lesvos is during the shoulder seasons, spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October).

The weather is pleasant, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds.

However, summer (June-August) can also be a great time to visit, especially for those who enjoy swimming and sunbathing.

Getting around Lesvos

Renting a car is a convenient way to explore the island at your own pace.

Buses only connect the main towns and villages on the island.

Ferries connect Lesvos to the mainland and other Greek islands.

Lesvos really is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. With its stunning scenery, rich history, and warm hospitality, it’s the perfect destination for a walking holiday. Buy our guidebook to walking on Lesvos.

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Walking in Ibiza & Formentera

Walking in Ibiza and Formentera

 

Island walking and cycling on Ibiza and Formentera

Ibiza and Formentera, two stunning islands in the Balearic archipelago, offer a unique blend of beachside relaxation, vibrant nightlife, and breathtaking natural beauty.

With our guidebook to walking on Ibiza and Formentera you can discover some fantastic walking and cycling routes.

Below we have described a selection of walks in our book.

Talamanca – Puig d’En Manya – Talamanca: Walk 2

You can enjoy this coastal walk at any time of year; although it’s quite short, allow a full day.

The walk used to run all the way to Cala Llonga, but a landslide has destroyed the beautiful path in the Torres Baixes area, where a villa on the 142m-high hill prevents you going round the damaged area.

Eventually the path will probably be repaired – although it will be a big job!

Cala Jondal to Sa Canal: Walk 5

Make a day of this super walk. There are several lovely picnic spots: on Puig des Jondal, at Sa Caleta or Es Codolar, in the salt pans or in the woods below Puig Falcó.

There are also five restaurants! Two at the start, two in the middle and one at the end

Sant Josep – Sa Talaiassa – Cala Tarida: Walk 7

This walk takes you to the highest point on the island and then down to the west coast. On a clear day you’ll have wonderful views over the whole of Ibiza from the TV transmitter shortly before the summit of Sa Talaiassa.

From here forests and market gardens lead you down to Cala Tarida, where you can end this long but lovely walk with a swim

Torre des Molar from Port de Sant Miquel: Walk 10

This short walk takes you to magnificent viewpoints over the north coast. Your goal is an old watchtower with a viewing platform.

There are three chances to swim: at Cala des Multons, on the south side of the Illa des Bosc peninsula, and at Cala de Sant Miquel.

Sant Antoni – Sant Rafel – Sant Antoni: Cycle tour 2

You’ll see for yourself just how small Ibiza is, when you do this cycle tour across the island.

Starting out from the west coast, you’ll be in the capital in about two hours.

Bays west of Sant Antoni: Walk 11

Ibiza’s picturesque west coast is explored on this walk, where you discover steep cliffs and pretty sandy bays.

The best part of the walk is the stretch to Cala Conta, so the Short or Alternative walk is highly recommended.

Santa Agnes – Penya Esbarrada – Santa Agnes: Walk 13

This walk in the lonely northwest corner of the island takes you to a remarkable coastal landscape and then over Penya Esbarrada – where you’ll enjoy that invigorating feeling of being in high mountains.

This is probably one of the finest walks on Ibiza, but very exposed in places.

Es Pujols – Es Calo, El Pilar – Far de la Mola – Es Pujols: Cycle tour 2

On this delightful tour you travel almost the entire length of Formentera. Your goal is the lighthouse on the east coast.

No picnic places are especially recommended, but there are restaurants at Es Caló and El Pilar.

Some cyclists will find the 3km-long climb beyond Es Caló a bit trying – it’s far easier with a mountain bike.

Es Pujols – Platja de Migjorn – Es Pujols: Cycle tour 2

This cycle tour takes you to one of the most beautiful beaches on Formentera and is especially recommended during the months when swimming is possible.

Take a little rucksack with you, so that you can walk unencumbered as far as you like along the beach. Picnic 4 is en route.

Es Pujols: Circular walk and cycle tour 6

The route is Es Pujols – Sant Ferran – Es Calo – Cami de sa Pujada – El Pilar – Sa Talaiassa – Es Calo – Es Pujols.

This is a combination of a cycle tour and a walk, and keen walkers will agree that the hike is the best part of the excursion.

Besides the walk described, I have shown other possible routes on the map. For instance, from El Pilar you could walk south to S’Estufador and either return the same way or go west to the Caló d’es Ram and return on the Camí d’es Ram.

It helps to have a good sense of direction when following any paths – and it’s a good idea to have our GPS track or a good map.

The best time of year for walking on Ibiza and Formentera

The ideal time to walk in Ibiza and Formentera is during the shoulder seasons, spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October).

The weather is pleasant, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds.

However, summer (June-August) can also be a great time to visit, especially for those who enjoy swimming and sunbathing.

Just be prepared for higher temperatures and larger crowds.

Getting between the islands and around them

Regular ferry services ply the route between Ibiza and Formentera making it easy to explore both destinations.

Both islands have a well-developed bus network, making it simple to get around without a car.

However, renting a car can be a convenient way to explore the islands at your own pace, especially if you want to reach more remote areas.

Be aware that parking can be limited in popular areas.

Ibiza and Formentera offer a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and vibrant nightlife.

By using our guidebook to walking on Ibiza and Formentera, you can confidently explore these islands on foot or bicycle and discover many hidden gems.

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Walking in Eastern Provence

Walking in Eastern Provence

 

Discover Eastern Provence

Eastern Provence, a sun-kissed region in southeastern France, offers a diverse range of walking opportunities, from the stunning coastal paths of the Côte d’Azur to the challenging mountain trails of the Alps. Our guidebook to walking in Eastern Provence is your ideal companion.

Below are some of our favourite walks in the area.

Mont Chauve d’Aspremont – Walk 2

The flanks of Mont Chauve (‘Bald Mountain’) are virtually treeless, so all along this invigorating ridge walk you’ll have unimpeded views.

The sense of isolation is wonderful, too. It’s hard to believe you’re at the edge of the Riviera – until you take in the panorama from the massive fort!

Peille and Peillon – Walk 3

Old trails – some dating from Roman times – are followed in this circuit via the exquisite perched villages of Peille and Peillon.

Which will you prefer? Peille thrills with its via ferrata; Peillon is picture-postcard perfect and home to a top-class hotel, where you could enjoy a coffee on the terrace before the walk.

Circuit above Theoule-sur-Mer – Walk 6

One of the advantages of a break on the Côte d’Azur is the excellent public transport.

There’s plenty of walking in this book for which you won’t need a hire car – especially if you’re based between Cannes and Nice.

This little gem is a perfect example but, by referring to the paths on the map highlighted in lilac (all waymarked), you can make up any combination of routes.

We like to do this walk by train, but you can also return by bus from the beachside restaurant at the end of the walk.

La Turbie to Eze-Bord-de-Mer – Walk 8

On this walk you will enjoy some of the finest views on the whole of the Riviera. The main walk rises gently along the north side of the Grande Corniche crest, with superb views up to the mountains, before crossing the shoulder – to a magnificent coastal panorama.

From here the main walk dives south, with plunging views over Eze and Cap Ferrat.

The Alternative walk contours east along the old corniche military track, with coastal views towards Italy

L’Arpiha – Walk 12

Turini! One of the first places we make for when we arrive at Nice. Surrounded by magnificent forests of firs and spruce, this eyrie is as silent and refreshing as a Christmas morning snowfall, except when there’s a motor rally on the famous hairpin road!

Nearby are the gold-green mountains of the Authion – backdrop for this walk.

Lac de Trecolpas and Refuge de la Cougourde – Walk 13

This is one of the most rewarding walks in the Mercantour National Park – especially considering the little effort involved.

There is ample shade on the lower slopes, and much of the walk follows a foaming stream. But the two highlights are the teal-blue Lac de Trécolpas and the magnificent rock bastion of La Cougourde.

Throughout the walk be alert: you will find many pockets of alpine flora and almost certainly see chamois.

Cole de Fenestre and Pas des Ladres – Walk 14

This classic walk – barren and austere – is steeped in history. It is thought that a Roman temple and travellers’ shelter once existed near the spot where the chapel now stands at Madone de Fenestre.

But the trail we follow to the Col de Fenestre predates even Roman times. For a thousand years, until the end of World War II, this route was often a battleground.

Even in the 16th century, when both sides of the col belonged to the House of Savoy, the breach was closed in a vain effort to stop the plague spreading south from Piedmont to Nice.

The detritus of World War II, barbed wire, rubble and bunkhouses, still menaces the Col de Fenestre, which today marks the border with Italy.

Circuit from Gourdon – Walk 17

The first part of this walk, a descent on the aptly-named ‘Paradise Trail’, is an extravaganza of bird’s-eye views down over the lush Loup Valley and the coast.

We then follow a piped watercourse through aromatic pines, in the company of butterflies and dark red squirrels.

At the end of the walk, there is a gradual climb under the pleasant shade of oaks.

The best time of year for walking in Eastern Provence

The best time to walk in Eastern Provence is during the shoulder seasons, spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October).

The weather is mild, the crowds are smaller, and the scenery is stunning.

However, summer (June-August) can also be a great time to visit, especially for those who enjoy swimming and sunbathing.

Getting around the region

The region is well-connected by train to cities in France, with lines running from major cities like Paris and Marseille to smaller towns like Nice and Cannes.
Buses are a convenient and affordable way to get around, especially for shorter journeys.

However, renting a car is a good option for those who want more flexibility and independence.

Be aware that driving on the winding coastal roads can be challenging, and parking can be difficult in popular tourist destinations.

Eastern Provence offers a unique blend of coastal beauty, alpine grandeur, and cultural heritage. With our guidebook to walking in Eastern Provence you can discover the best that this region has to offer.

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Walking in Croatia

Walking in Croatia

 

Discover Croatia’s hidden gems on foot

Croatia, a stunning country with a diverse landscape, offers a plethora of opportunities for walkers. From the rugged mountains of the Dinaric Alps to the picturesque islands of the Adriatic Sea, there’s something for everyone.

Our guidebook to walking in Croatia is your perfect companion.

The walks in our guide are split into the following areas:

• Elaphiti Islands (Lokrum, Koločep, Lopud and Mljet)
• Adriatic Coast
• Brač
• Hvar
• Paklenica National Park
• Kvarner Gulf
• Rab
• Krk
• Lošinj
• Cres

Described below is a walk in each of these areas.

Highlights of Lopud from Uvala Lopud – Walk 3

Lopud’s historical heritage is the focus of a network of paths and trails linking some of its many churches and chapels (there were 30 in 1700), a fort built in 1653, together with the rugged west coast.

There are signs along Uvala Lopud seafront and inland at many, but not all significant junctions en route to the selected features. However the ‘Walking Track’ signs lack destinations!

A further complication is that vegetation grows, and densely without regular clearing. Nevertheless, do not be deterred.

With these notes you should not run out of a clear path, nor encounter a jungle. Around the harbour, several bars and restaurants help to make the island an ideal destination for a day out from Dubrovnik, preferably an overnight stay, to really savour its peacefulness after the last ferry has sailed.

Makarska to Baška Voda – Walk 8

For a popular, well-developed area, the Makarska Riviera, northwards from the town, offers walks through remarkably secluded woodland and along the coast, interspersed with harbours, quiet coves, waterside cafés and bars.

Views of the Biokovo mountains, the islands, and locally along the indented rocky shore are a constant delight. To continue this walk northwestwards, see Walk 9.

Vidova Gora summit from Bol, on Brač – Walk 13

At 780m (2558ft), Vidova Gora is the highest peak in the Adriatic islands. It towers above the attractive, small town of Bol on Brač’s south coast, its huge grey limestone bluffs and cliffs seemingly inaccessible to walkers.

Yet a skilfully built path finds a way up a series of small valleys below its eastern ramparts, so well designed that steep stretches are rare.

A path to delight the senses, it passes through pine wood, and its lower reaches are lined with aromatic, spring-flowering rosemary; it’s even well shaded on the whole.

The view from the top sweeps round from the Pelješac peninsula and Korčla in the south, past Vis and Hvar – where Sv Nikola is discernible – to take in the Biokovo range and Makarska to the north, and of course, Bol and Zlatni Rat beach below, one of Croatia’s many Blue Flag beaches.

Velo Grablje to Hvar Town, on Hvar – Walk 16

This is a walk marked by extraordinary contrasts, from Hvar’s high, breezy ridge, through old villages and olive groves, to rocky shores and shingle beaches.

The two villages, Velo and Malo Grablje, are living examples of changes that have been happening on Hvar for decades, especially away from the tourist-favoured coast.

Prolonged decline may, until recently, have been terminal, but now there are definite signs of renewal. The two parts of the walk, inland and coast, can be explored separately over two days, either by using the bus – or as out-and-back walks by car.

Velika Paklenica and Planinarski Dom Paklenica – Walk 19

The awesome walls and cliffs of Velika Paklenica are memorably impressive from the floor of the canyon where you feel positively dwarfed by their enormity.

Indeed, it seems miraculous that you can walk through with comparative ease. The wide trail is endowed with several information boards describing the outstanding ecological and cultural importance of the canyon and the park generally.

Bear in mind that Walk 21 offers the opportunity to fully appreciate the scale of the canyon and the surrounding peaks and ridges.

Lužinski Breg from Dobreć, in the Kvarner Gulf – Walk 23

This walk provides a not-too-strenuous introduction to the peaks, ridges and forests of Učka Nature Park, with the reward of panoramic views, especially of much of the coast covered by Walk 22, as well as Vojak (1396m), the highest peak on the entire Dinaric range.

Partly overgrown by the beautiful beech, oak and chestnut forests are the remains of the stone buildings and enclosures of former communities. Depressions and scattered rocky outcrops provide evidence of the local limestone (or karst) landscape.

At about the 1h20min mark, near the main route of the walk, is a memorial to a member of the local anti-fascist resistance force who died nearby during World War 2, a poignant reminder that the area was once much less peaceful.

Kamenjak summit from Rab Town harbour – Walk 28

The highest point on an island is an irresistible lure, especially when it’s only 408m high, as is Kamenjak on the island of Rab. But this is also an interesting walk in its own right.

You start at sea level and walk up through comparatively luxuriant vegetation and past cultivated fields at first, to reach the summit plateau – an utterly different world.

The seemingly barren, lunar landscape on the long ridge forming the island’s spine, dissected by a maze of stone walls, supports stunted thornbush, prickly juniper and incredibly nimble sheep.

The superb view embraces the Učka mountains southwest of Rijeka, the Velebit range to the east, and numerous islands to the south and west.

Obzova summit from Baška, on Krk – Walk 30

There’s much more to this walk than the ascent of the highest summit on the island, in this case Obzova (568m). Rather than being an independent peak, Obzova is the most elevated point on the long broad ridge enclosing Baška’s valley to the west.

The walk is also a classic exercise in contrasts, from the oak and pine woodland in the valley to the prickly bushes and wind-pruned pines on the plateau.

Here the typical karst limestone maze of dissected rock is so pronounced that the gracefully undulating landscape seems to be covered with a whitish glaze or icing.

In the myriad walled enclosures, few of which are still used as pasture or shelter, and deserted stone huts, it is all too easy to see a traditional land use in severe decline – walkers are far more numerous than farmers up here, enjoying this exhilarating, magnificently scenic outing.

Planinarski Dom Svete Gaudent from Osor, on Lošinj – Walk 35

The Osoršćica ridge is one of the highlights of walking throughout the Adriatic islands – high, open, and exceptionally scenic, with fine views north and westwards.

This walk introduces the ridge and provides the opportunity to visit a superbly sited mountain hut at the northern extremity of the ridge. Plan your visit so that you can enjoy suitable refreshments when you arrive; later, back in Osor, it’s well worth allowing some time to inspect the collection of bronze sculptures standing around the prominent 15th-century church of Svete Gaudenico.

With luck, the nearby archaeological museum, with a collection of Roman artefacts, might just be open.

Svete Salvatur and Gavza, on Cres – Walk 37

The cultivation of olives and the production of fine oils has a long and continuing history on Cres; indeed a bottle of the local extra virgin oil, dark golden-green, with an unusual flavour, is as good a memento of the island as you could wish.

This walk takes you through some of the extensive groves on the hillsides north of the town. On the outskirts you will pass a tall round tower, recently restored and open for inspection daily.

It dates from the 16th century when the ruling Venetians built a wall to enclose the town during their long ascendancy, almost unbroken from 1000 to 1797.

Three gates, a fragment of the wall and this tower are the sole surviving remnants of the fortification. The return from Svete Salvatur leads down to tiny Uvala Gavza and the start of the long shoreline promenade to Cres harbour, with many opportunities for a swim.

The best time of year for walking in Croatia

The best time to walk in Croatia is spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). The weather is pleasant, and the crowds are smaller.

However, summer (June-August) can also be a great time to visit, especially for those who enjoy swimming and sunbathing.

Getting around Croatia

Ferries travel between the islands and coastal towns and can often take cars as well as foot passengers.

Public buses connect most places and are cheap.

Renting a car is straightforward and gives you the most flexibility.

There are trains on the mainland, connecting Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik.

Croatia’s diverse landscape and rich cultural heritage make it a fantastic destination for walkers. Use our guidebook to walking in Croatia to get the very best out of your time in the country.

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Walking in Cinque Terre

Walking in Cinque Terre

 

Discover the coastal charms of Cinque Terre and the Riviera di Levante

The stunning region of Cinque Terre and the Riviera di Levante is nestled on the Italian coast between Genoa and Pisa.

It offers a captivating blend of breathtaking coastal scenery, historic towns and delicious cuisine. Our guidebook to walking in Cinque Terre and the Riviera di Levante is an ideal companion for those seeking a memorable walking experience.

Areas covered in our guide

• Cinque Terre
• La Spezia Bay
• The Little Cinque Terre
• The Tigullio Gulf
• The Portofino Peninsula
• Genoa

Below is a small selection of introductions to walks from the book.

Monterosso to Riomaggiore – Walk 1

This is the classic walk in the Cinque Terre National Park, connecting all five villages.

The route follows old coastal paths high above the sea, skirts the edge of steep slopes, crosses small terraces of olive groves and vineyards or runs through shady holm oak forests.

The views down to the blue sea and the villages with their yellow- and red-coloured houses clinging to each other are often breathtaking.

So it is with good reason that this walk from Monterosso to Riomaggiore has become the most popular walking route in all Italy.

From April to October there will be many, many walkers on the paths. So start very early to avoid the big crowds.

Tellaro to Lerici via Ameglia – Walk 10

To the southeast of La Spezia a small but striking mountain range, only 400 metres high, rises like a peninsula between the broad plain of the Magra River mouth and the Ligurian Sea.

This thinly populated coastal area has been part of the Parco Regionale di Montemarcello-Magra since 1995, so it’s protected from overdevelopment.

This walk through the nature reserve follows old cobbled paths and trails across hills covered with small gardens, olive groves and typical Mediterranean macchia.

All along the route you get extensive views across the Gulf of La Spezia and towards the steep marble cliffs of the Apuan Alps in Tuscany.

Lizza to Bonassola via Monte Rossola – Walk 12

On this long and varied walk you feel far away from the touristic coast. Following little-used paths and trails you soon forget the hustle and bustle of the nearby Cinque Terre.

The route starts from a wooded green valley a short way inland from Levanto, where colourful small villages dot the hillside.

A long initial climb takes you up onto barren Monte Rossola, a reddish-coloured isolated mountain rising more than 500 metres from the coast.

From here – but also from many other places along the walk – you enjoy superb views down to the blue sea. So walk on a clear day!

Belvedere di Pratosopralacroceto Gramizza – Walk 19

All the walks in this book have the high Apennines as a constant backdrop. Sometimes we look out to green, wooded slopes, at other times the landscape shows its brown and barren face.

In contrast to all the other walks in this book (which keep to the coast), this hike leads deep into the sparsely inhabited and seldom-visited hinterland, rising to a height of 1800 metres.

Walking through the unspoilt highlands of the Aveto Nature Reserve 40 kilometres north of Chiavari, you feel yourself far away from the Mediterranean warmth of the Ligurian coast.

As you make for Gramizza, you won’t pass a village or permanently inhabited house for several hours. There is plenty of variety, too: you’ll follow both shady forest trails and narrow paths across open grassy slopes, where on clear days you enjoy superb panoramic views. Because this walk lies between 800 and 1500 metres, it’s perfectly feasible in high summer.

But it’s only possible on workdays, as there are no buses to the starting point on Sundays.

San Lorenzo della Costa to Portofino – Walk 22

This easy and varied walk takes you across the beautiful Portofino Peninsula. It follows old mule trails and paved footpaths through farmland with lush gardens and Mediterranean forests.

There are many places with far-reaching views down to the sea. The walk ends at the highly fashionable small harbour town of Portofino, one of the most picturesque – but also most expensive – places in all of Italy.

Traso Alto to Recco – Walk 26

This long walk gives an impression of the contrasting aspects of the Riviera di Levante. It starts from the mountainous green hinterland behind Genoa, where you feel very far away indeed from the warmth of the Ligurian coast — although you’re only a few miles away in reality.

After passing through an abandoned hamlet, you climb onto pastoral grassland grazed by herds of horses and goats.

Many ruins, broken dry stone walls and shepherd’s huts remain from the days when this landscape was the basis for a simple, poor, farming and herding culture which only disappeared gradually during the last century.

From the high pastures you eventually return to the rich Mediterranean coastal scenery with its colourful hamlets and houses standing amidst sweet-scented pine forests and lovely olive groves.

The entire route offers fascinating panoramic views, from the deserted Apennine mountain ranges inland to the densely populated coast around the Gulf of Genoa.

For more than three hours you’re traversing open ridges between the Fontanabuona Valley and the sea at a height of 500 to 900 metres.

The best time for walking in Cinque Terre and the Riviera di Levante

The best time to visit Cinque Terre and the Riviera di Levante is during the shoulder seasons, spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October).

The weather is pleasant, the crowds are smaller, and the scenery is stunning. However, summer (June-August) can also be a great time to visit, especially if you enjoy swimming and sunbathing.

Getting around the region

Ferries are a popular way to travel between the coastal towns of the Riviera di Levante. They offer stunning views of the coastline and can be a relaxing way to travel.

Buses are a convenient and affordable way to get around the region. They connect the major towns and villages, making it easy to explore the area.

Renting a car can be a good option for those who want more flexibility and independence. However, driving on the winding coastal roads can be challenging, and parking can be difficult in popular tourist destinations.

Our guidebook to walking in Cinque Terre and the Riviera di Levante gives you all the information you need for a memorable adventure.

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Walking in Western Provence

Walking in Western Provence

 

Wanderlust in Western Provence

Western Provence, a region of sun-drenched landscapes, historic villages, and fragrant lavender fields, is a fantastic destination for walkers.

Use our guidebook to walking in Western Provence to explore the diverse terrain of the region, ranging from rolling hills to dramatic mountains.

Below is a selection of our favourite walks.

Circuit around Buoux (Walk 4)

Approaching Séguin, a beautiful limestone edge suddenly appears on your left, on the far side of the Aigue-Brun Valley. This walk takes you along the top of the edge and then to a sunny plateau.

From here descend back into the valley beneath the slender tower of St-Symphorien and the ruins of the Fort de Buoux.

Dentelles de Montmirail (Walk 6)

One of the most exquisite walks you will ever take, anywhere. This magnificent hike leads you up, over and between the Dentelles and their glistening vineyards.

There are splendid views to Mont Ventoux.

Pont du Gard (Walk 7)

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Pont du Gard is a colossal work of art. Admire it from all angles, and in different lights.

Plan to devote a full day to this beautiful and varied five-star walk.

Take a long break on the banks of the Gardon – an idyllic picnic spot where you can paddle or swim. Also spend some time at the fascinating visitors’ centre.

Circuit to the Cascades du Sautadet (Walk 9)

This woodland walk, with an optional swim at the end, is ideal for a warm day. Much of the route is in deep shade, on leaf-soft, sunken footpaths, before emerging in vineyards.

The 13th-century arched bridge at La Roque is a beauty, and the village worth a visit.

But without doubt it is the splendid maze of waterfalls the Cèze has cut into the limestone rock at the Cascades du Sautadet that will stay in your memory.

Barbentane and St-Michel-de-Frigolet (Walk 11)

The plain below La Montagnette is a pocket-sized mountain astride the Rhône. It is the setting for a delightful walk through woodlands and beside flower-filled olive groves, with the option of a visit to the abbey of St-Michel-deFrigolet and the charming village of Barbentane with its exquisite château.

St-Remy and Les Baux-des-Provence (Walk 12)

This delightful ridge walk is probably the most popular in the Alpilles, and deservedly so. It’s not too long or too steep, and it leads from a gorgeous lake to one of the most famous beauty spots in France, the magnificently-sited citadel of Les Baux.

Les Antiques and Glanum are close to the lake where the walk begins and ends, so plan to spend the whole day in this area.

Montpellier-le-Vieux (Walk 19)

Montpellier-le-Vieux is a ruiniform chaos writ large. It’s the largest in Europe and since 2011 a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our suggested walk takes in four of the five different routes (waymarked on the ground).

The plan you get on arrival suggests six other routes. Pack a picnic and plan to spend at least half a day enjoying the rock formations.

There are also splendid woodlands and luxuriant displays of mosses, ferns and wild flowers in spring.

Roc des Hourtous (Walk 21)

One of the most spectacular walks in the Tarn, this is an ideal day’s outing. Fortunately there is plenty of shade, so the walk is possible even at the height of summer.

The views from the top are among the finest in the valley. The less energetic can see the best of the sights in the Short walks but, while it’s easier on the legs and lungs, the drive up to Rieisse (via ten hairpin bends) is not for the faint-hearted!

The best time of year for walking in Western Provence

The best time to visit Western Provence for walking is during the spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). The weather is mild, and the crowds are smaller.

However, summer (June-August) can be a great time to visit for those who enjoy warm weather and swimming.

Getting around the region

Renting a car is the most flexible way to explore Western Provence. It allows you to reach remote areas and discover hidden gems.

The region is well-connected by train to other cities in France. Lines run from major cities like Paris and Marseille to smaller towns like Avignon and Aix-en-Provence.

Buses are a convenient and affordable way to get around, especially for shorter journeys.

Western Provence offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and culinary delights. With its diverse range of walking trails, it’s the perfect destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Our guidebook to walking in Western Provence, will ensure a memorable walking adventure in this enchanting region.

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Walking on the Costa Blanca

Walking on the Costa Blanca

 

Walking on the Costa Blanca – a Mediterranean delight

The Costa Blanca, Spain’s sun-kissed Mediterranean coastline, is a walker’s paradise. With its stunning beaches, rugged cliffs, and charming coastal towns, the Costa Blanca offers a diverse range of walking trails for all levels of experience.

Our guidebook to walking on the Costa Blanca helps you to discover the best that this region has to offer.

Below we have described some of our highlights of walking on the Costa Blanca.

Vuelta de Olta (Olta Circuit) (Walk 3)

This clockwise walk around the Oltá peaks undulates roughly between the 300m and 400m contours.

Each time you emerge from the shade of fragrant pine trees you will have spectacular views over Calp and the coastline or towards the serrated ridges of surrounding serras.

Serra Gelada – from Benidorm to Albir (Walk 5)

Despite its proximity to Benidorm, the Serra Gelada is no mean mountain and must be treated with respect.

From the landward side its undulating silhouette appears benign. But from the sea its sheer, stepped cliffs present a formidable picture.

This exhilarating hike follows the cliff edge, with fantastic views.

Serpis Gorge (Walk 6)

This pleasant riverside stroll through the picturesque Serpis Gorge can be enjoyed by anyone.

From the level track you can appreciate the marked contrast between the sheer cliffs surrounding the gorge and the gentleness of the river flowing through it.

The river valley provides an ideal habitat for wild flowers and birds. Allow a full day for picnicking, botanising and birdwatching.

Barranc de la Encantada and Ermita de Santo Cristo (Walk 8)

In addition to exceptional views, this delightful walk offers a peaceful stroll by a stream and deep pools under the imposing cliffs of an impressive gorge.

Plus, there’s an optional detour to Planes with its ancient aqueduct and Moorish castle, and an old pilgrimage trail to an ermita.

Autumn, when the heather is purple on the hillsides and trees in the valleys shine yellow and gold, is the best time of year.

Serra de la Carrasca and the Mozarabic trails (Walk 10)

If you are fit enough to tackle a really long, full-day walk, then do not miss some version of this one. The main walk takes you along the Vall de Laguar, over the barren Carrasca Ridge and into Vall d’Ebo for a break in one of the bars.

After crossing the Barranc del Infern, you return on a pair of Mozarabic trails, one plunging steeply down into the bed of the Ebo, the other thrusting back up again.

Vuelta del Somo (Somo Cicruit) (Walk 11)

For variety of terrain, overwhelming views and outstanding scenery, this walk comes near the top of the list.

While Somo itself is an unremarkable mountain, as you make this anti-clockwise circuit it becomes obvious why this is one of our favourite walks. Look out for golden eagles which hunt in the area and for the tracks of the wild boar so prized by hunters.

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Walking in Eastern Crete

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Walking in Eastern Crete – a journey through time

Eastern Crete, a land of ancient myths and stunning landscapes, offers a unique and unforgettable walking experience.

With its dramatic mountains, secluded coves, and historic sites, this region is a paradise for hikers and nature lovers. Our guidebook to walking in Eastern Crete helps you discover the best this region has to offer.

Below we have described some of our favourite walks in Eastern Crete.

From Kalamafka to Kroustas (Walk 5)

This undemanding country ramble starts and ends in attractive villages and takes us through cultivated hillsides and pastures.

The bus journey to Kalamafka is an experience in itself, as it’s an afternoon school run and they tend to use the older buses. Take time to wander up into Kalamafka and, if you’ve got enough energy, look round the back streets of Kroustas, too – this is real Greece.

Agios Ioannis Point (Walk 7)

Since we first walked on Agios Ioannis Point for the original edition of this guide it’s been transformed by a wind farm which actually adds interest.

It’s discreet, and careful contouring ensures that it doesn’t dominate everything. Whichever version of this walk you do, you’ll have breathtaking views out over ‘big’ and ‘little’ Spinalonga, as well as Kolokithia – all set like precious stones in a sea which changes from pale aquamarine to deepest sapphire blue and glistens and sparkles tantalisingly all around you.

Episkopi – Agios Ioannis – Agia Fotia (Walk 10)

Here’s a walk that leads you gently up and over the Thripti Mountains and to the south coast, where the landscape is very different from the north.

Since it follows tracks or roads all the way, there is no need to watch your footing; you can stride out, enjoying the scenery. To finish, how about a swim in the Libyan Sea?

Kavousi – Thripti – Monastiraki (Walk 12)

This walk requires stamina, but the rewards are great, and you’ll feel tremendously exhilarated – at one with the landscape – as you climb higher and higher into those splendid mountains, spellbound by the views.

You can anticipate a friendly welcome in Thripti and a pleasant contrast of scenery from village to hillside – via vineyards, pasturelands and mountains, where the local people scratch a living high in the hills.

Richtis Gorge (Walk 16)

The jungle-like Richtis Gorge is one of the most exhilarating experiences you can enjoy in Eastern Crete. Its reputation is spreading so quickly that we fear it will become the Samaria of the east.

If at all possible, walk here out of the ‘season’ or very early in the day.

Zakros – Valley of the Dead – Kato Zakros (Walk 18)

This walk through the Valley of the Dead (Faragi Nekron) is one of our favourites. You can either start in the village of Zakros or from the top of the gorge. Starting from Zakros, you get the benefit of a pretty village and some lush gardens, vines, vegetables, olives and flowers.

Not only is the walk splendid, but the goal, Kato Zakros, is a real haven (once the lunchtime coach parties have moved on), with the bonus of a Minoan site.

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Walking in the Pyrenees

Walking in the Pyrenees

 

The Pyrenees – a mountainous adventure

The Pyrenees, a majestic mountain range that forms a natural border between France and Spain, provides an endless number of routes for walkers.

With its diverse landscapes, ranging from lush valleys to snow-capped peaks, you’ll be guaranteed superb views. Our guidebook to walking in the Pyrenees will help you to discover the best that this region has to offer.

Below we have described some of our favourite walks in the Pyrenees.

Circuit in the Garrotxa, and Santa Pau (Walk 4)

Behind the Costa Brava lies one of the most important volcanic regions in Europe, the Garrotxa. The earliest eruption was some 350,000 years ago, the most recent 11,500 years ago.

Our walk takes you first through the Fageda d’en Jordà, a once-great beech wood, into this strange volcanic region which, with its curious light and lush vegetation, has long inspired artists such as Joaquim Vayreda, one of the founders of the Olot School.

A Canigou canter (Walk 7)

A classic walk featuring the summit ascent of Canigou, at 2784 metres (9130 feet), one of the highest mountains of the region and a much-loved landmark, quite clearly visible from many Costa Brava beaches.

Unlike the peaks further west, this is a Mediterranean mountain, free from ski-lifts, resin-scented and saturated with light.

Pedraforca (Walk 10)

Pedraforca is one of the most famous mountains in Catalonia. Inside the beautiful Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park, the bizarre double summits, separated by a so-called enforcadura (fork) of scree, are a landmark challenging you to reach the summit.

There are three main approaches. We are going to take you up the one that poses the least difficulty, which starts from Gósol.

Among the lakes (Walk 14)

This is the Ariège at its most awesome. On a warm, sunny day the high-mountain scenery is uplifting, and the lakes, beginning with the Soulcem, can be an inviting shade of blue.

But if the weather should deteriorate, be warned that these bare, wind-blasted slopes in the shadow of Montcalm and Estats can become quite vicious.

Cirque de Gavarnie (Walk 20)

Gavarnie is a very popular climbing and walking centre in the Pyrenees and its cirque is one of the great spectacles of the world. If you’re in the area on no account miss this.

The glacier-scoured wall of rock, rising more than 1300m/4265ft from the valley floor and with a circumference of over 3km/2mi, is visible from some distance.

As you approach the village, watch out, too, for the famous Brèche de Roland, the gap in the top of this rock wall.

Circuit from the Pont d’Espagne via the Vallée de Marcadau and Lac du Pourtet (Walk 23)

The Marcadau is one of those rare Pyrenean valleys that has something of the ambiance of the ‘Grand Nord’.

It leads to the Refuge Wallon Marcadau, with its feeling of high mountain isolation, and from there the route climbs steeply to the lakes of Nère and Pourtet, before descending again towards Pont d’Espagne.

Ordesa – the Grand Canyon walk (Walk 26)

If you had to choose just one walk in the Pyrenees, this should be it. Amidst unforgettable canyon scenery, the track leads you to the foot of Monte Perdido, the third highest mountain in the range.

The rocks themselves are a main attraction – endless calcareous cliffs, traversed by awesome stone balconies (known as fajas).

But there is also the chance to see rare birds such as lammergeiers, griffon vultures and wallcreepers – while it is almost a certainty that you will spot izards (Pyrenean chamois).

The best time of year for walking in the Pyrenees

The ideal time to explore the Pyrenees on foot is during the shoulder seasons, spring (May-June) and autumn (September-October).

During these months, the weather is mild, the crowds are smaller, and the mountain scenery is at its most vibrant.

Getting around the region

Trains and buses connect major towns and cities in the Pyrenees, making it easy to reach popular hiking destinations.

However, renting a car provides flexibility to explore at your own pace, especially for venturing off the beaten path.

The Pyrenees’ diverse landscapes, rich history, and stunning scenery make it a destination that every hiker should visit. Whether you’re seeking a challenging mountain trek or a leisurely walk through a picturesque valley, the Pyrenees offer something for everyone. Buy a copy of our guidebook to walking in the Pyrenees.

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Walking in Sicily

 

Discovering the walking trails of Sicily

Sicily, a sun-kissed island off the southern tip of Italy, is a captivating blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.

With its diverse landscapes, from volcanic mountains to pristine beaches, Sicily offers countless opportunities for unforgettable walking experiences.

Our guidebook to walking in Sicily is your perfect companion.

Below we have listed some of our highlights of walking in Sicily.

Schiena dell’Asino and the Valle del Bove (Walk 2)

After just a short walk you can escape the crowds at Etna Sud and enjoy fantastic views from below to the active summit craters.

The ridge known as Schiena dell’Asino (‘donkey’s back’) edges the Valle del Bove to the southwest. The huge caldera receives the majority of the lava discharged from the central craters.

In early summer the lower slopes are covered in a myriad of flowers

Monti Sartorius (Walk 4)

The seven volcanic craters of the Monti Sartorius lie all in a row like buttonholes (bottoniera). Due to the altitude (the walk runs at 1600m/5250ft above sea level) the vegetation only took hold again timidly. But in sheltered areas you come upon little birch copses.

A nature trail, marked with (now fading) yellow tags on wooden posts, takes you from viewpoint (punto osservazione PO) to viewpoint through this fascinating volcanic landscape.

The Gran Cratere on Vulcano (Walk 12)

The Aeolian Islands are of volcanic origin; Vulcano even gave its name to all fire mountains. The Gran Cratere is a textbook example of a volcano, with a perfect cone-shaped steaming crater.

The last great eruption took place from 1888-90, the next is still expected. From the crater’s edge you enjoy one of the most beautiful views on the archipelago.

Monte Soro and Lago Biviere (Walk 15)

On this walk you rove through the extensive beech woods at the foot of Monte Soro, the highest peak of the Nebrodi (1847m/6058ft).

The woods are interrupted by streams and clearings where livestock graze. You’ll frequently encounter half-wild Sanfratellani, a local breed of horses introduced by the Normans during the Middle Ages.

Lago Biviere is a paradise for birdwatchers.

Giant hollies on the Piano Pomo (Walk 20)

One of Sicily’s great natural wonders awaits you on the Piano Pomo. More than 200 holly trees (Ilex aquifolium) stand together and form a magical grove.

These trees, hundreds of years old, have grown to a colossal size and are unique in Italy. From November onwards, they are covered with shiny red berries.

Portella della Ginestra and Serre della Pizzuta (Walk 29)

Rugged La Pizzuta stands out clearly in Palermo’s hinterland. It offers great views over the Conca d’Oro and the capital.

The area’s niviere (snow pits) were used to store ice, which was then transported to Palermo in summer for the refreshment of the nobility in the form of granite (sorbets).

Piana degli Albanesi was founded at the end of the 15th century by Albanians fleeing Turkish domination.

To this day the inhabitants preserve their language and Greek Orthodox rites, especially alive at Easter.

The Vendicari Nature Reserve (Walk 38)

More than eight kilometres of untouched sand and rock coast stretch out before you on this walk. Vendicari is one of the most important migration bases in the Mediterranean.

Its pantani, the lagoons, dry out in the summer and fill again with rainwater in winter. Vendicari is not only a paradise for birds, but also for birdwatchers.

More than 230 species have been identified here to date. With a little bit of luck you can see flamingos in all seasons.

The best time of year for walking in Sicily

The ideal time to explore Sicily on foot is during the shoulder seasons, spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October).

During these months, the weather is pleasant, the crowds are smaller, and the island’s natural beauty is at its vibrant best.

Getting around the island

Sicily has a well-connected bus network, making it easy to reach popular walking destinations. Trains also connect major cities like Palermo, Catania, and Messina.

However, renting a car provides flexibility to explore at your own pace, especially for venturing off the beaten path.

Sicily’s diverse landscapes, rich history, and warm Mediterranean climate make it a fantastic destination for walkers. From ancient ruins to volcanic peaks, the island offers a wealth of opportunities for unforgettable outdoor adventures.

With a copy of our guidebook to walking in Sicily, you can discover the best that the island has to offer.

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