Dolomites Guide with Walks

If you are touring the Dolomites by car, you can choose from the huge range of places to stay throughout the area; in the main centres recommended hotels are shown on the town plans.

24 main walks with variations, all with large-scale maps; dozens of other walks and cycle tours
184 pages + 2 area maps; large-scale plans of all the major towns, highlighting hotels, restaurants, night spots and everything from supermarkets to launderettes
2nd ed, 2016; ISBN 978-1-85691-478-9; UK retail price £14.99 / USA retail price $20.00

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Publisher’s note 6

Introduction 8
When to go 8
Travelling to the Dolomites
By air 9
By train 9
By car 10
Driving in the Dolomites 11
Buses 12
Trains 14
Getting around by cycle 14
Where to stay 14
Cuisine 16
Dolomites specialities 17
Sports 19
Walking and climbing 19
Other sports 20
Festivals, customs and events 22
Shopping and souvenirs 24
Miscellaneous 26
Short historical summary 30

1 Eisacktal/Valle Isarco 34
Walk 1: Circuit from Kreuztal via the Telegraph on the Plose summit and the Ochsenalm 39
Walk 2: Around the Aferer Geisler/Odles Deores 45
Walking tips: Zanzer Alm and the Adolf Munkel Weg; ‘Kuchlkirchtag Walk’

2 Seiser Alm area/Alpe di Siusi 47
Walk 3: From Kastelruth to Seis via St. Valentin 51
Walk 4: From the Seiser Alm to Schlern and the Tierser Alpl Hut 55
Walking tips: Tisens and Tagusens; Puflatsch

3 The Rosengarten area/Catinaccio 59
Walk 5: Below the Vajolet Towers 66
Walking tips: ‘Elizabeth Promenade’; circuit round Lake Karer

4 Pustertal/Val Pusteria: the lower valley 69
Walking tips: Lindenweg from Mühlbach; Mills Nature Trail
at Terenten

5 Tauferer Tal and Ahrntal/Val di Tures and Valle Aurina 79
Walk 6: From Kasern to the Birnlücken Hut 86
Walking tips: Kofler zwischen den Wänden; Franziskusweg; Lake Klaus; Kehreralm; Krimmler Tauern; Cycling tip: from Bruneck to Sand

6 Antholzer Tal and Gsieser Tal/Val di Anterselva and Valle di Casies 88
Walking tips: Grentealm and Kumpfleralm; Lake Antholz

7 Hochpustertal/Alta Pusteria 93
Walk 7: From Lake Prags to the Seekofel Hut 99
Walk 8: Drei Zinnen/Tre Cime di Lavaredo 104
Walk 9: Rotwand/Croda Rossa di Sesto 106
Walk 10: Helm/Monte Elmo 107
Cycling tips: from Toblach through the Höhlensteintal; Pustertal cycle path between Mühlbach and Lienz

8 Grödner Tal/Val Gardena 108
Walk 11: From Seceda to the Regensburger Hut and Wolkenstein 114
Walk 12: Circuit round Langkofel/Sassolungo 120
Walking tips: to Wolkenstein on the Luis Trenker Promenade and the old railway; Pra da Rì in the Langental; Cycling tip: from the Seiser Alm down into Gröden by mountain bike

9 Gadertal/Val Badia 123
Walk 13: Piz Boé, the highest peak in the Sella Group 126
Walk 14: From Stern to the Fanes Group and St. Kassian 130
Walk 15: Wengen and the viles 133
Walk 16: Across the Sennes to the Seekofel Hut 138
Walking tips: Rifugio Scotoni; Heiligkreuz pilgrimage church; Val di Molins; Cycling tip: from St. Martin towards Brixen; Fanes and Sennes by mountain bike

10 Fassatal/Val di Fassa 140
Walk 17: From Ciampedié to Paolina 144
Walk 18: From Mazzin to the Vajolet Hut via the Antermoia Hut 146
Walk 19: The Bindelweg 153
Walking tip: Val Contrin; Walking and cycling tip: from Penìa to Pozza and Moèna

11 Fleimstal/Val di Fiemme 156
Walk 20: Laghi di Colbricon 159

12 Primiero Valley 160
Walk 21: Round Pala di San Martino 162

13 Agordino 165
Walk 22: From the Falzàrego Pass round Averau and Nuvolau 169
Walk 23: Under the walls of Civetta 173
Walking tips: stroll through the viles; Col di Lana

14 Ampezzo 175
Walk 24: Round the Drei Zinnen/Tre Cime di Lavaredo 181
Walking tip: Monte Piana from the Bosi Hut

15 Cadore 183

Index (with suggested restaurants, marked as “r”) 186

(Note: the abbreviation r stands for Restaurant; Cl stands for Closed; the number of ¤ symbols indicates the relative cost of a meal.)

Abtei/Badia 129
Abteital see Gadertal
Adolf Munkel Weg 46
Aferer Geisler/Odles Deores, mt. group 44, 44-5
Afers/Éores 40
r Schatzerhütte (14 on Brixen plan); outstanding T ¤¤-¤¤¤
Agordino 164-5
Àgordo 170
r Erice, typical local dishes ¤¤
r Agordina, pizzeria ¤
Agriturismo 16
Ahornach 81
Ahrntal/Valle Aurina 79, 83, 84, 86-7
Airports 9
Alba (Canazei) 148-9, 151, 152
‘Alemagna’, the 94-5, 176, 177
Àlleghe 171
r Rudatis, fine pizzas ¤. Cl Mon
r Bierstube/Birreria, little private brewery (!) with snacks ¤
Alpe Cermis 156
Alpi di Siusi see Seiser Alm
Alta Badia see Hochabteital
Alta Pusteria see Hochpustertal
Ampezzo 175
Andraz 167
Antelao, mt. 182
Antermoia/Untermoi 135
Anterselva di Mezzo see Antholz Mittertal
Antholz Mittertal/Anterselva di Mezzo 88-89, cover
r Anger, T and pizzas from wood fires ¤. Cl Tue
r Egger, pub, ice creams, snacks, many beers ¤. Cl Mon
Antholzer Tal/Val di Anterselva 88
r Camping Antholz, at Antholz-Obertal, rustic rest. with good cooking ¤-¤¤. Op all year. www.camping-antholz.com
Antholzersee/Lago di Anterselva, lake 90
r Restaurant am See, T, fresh trout ¤-¤¤. Op all year
Arabba/Reba 12, 164-5, 166
Armentarola 128
Aufkirchen/Santa Maria 96
Auronzo di Cadore 185
Averau, mt. 165, 169
Badia see Abtei
Becco di Mezzodi, mt. 178
Bindelweg 153, 167
Birnlücke, pass 86-7
Bolzano see Bozen
Bozen/Bolzano 13, 56, 57, 58 (for location of restaurants see red numbers on the plan)
r Arma, family-run (44) ¤
r Kaiserkron (37), innovative cooking ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Sat pm, Sun
r Vögele (23), from T to ‘nouvelle cuisine’ ¤¤; also daily menus ¤. Cl Sat pm and Sun
r Nadamas (13), daily specials ¤, hot food till midnight. Cl Sun
r Walthers’ (35), rest./café ¤¤. Cl Sun
r Laurin (38), interesting menus, ¤¤. Cl Sun lunch
r Mondschein (17), old Austrian cooking, ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Sun lunch
r Anita (20), high-class T ¤¤-¤¤¤, daily menus ¤. Cl Sat pm and Sun
r Hopfen & Co (25), brewery inn ¤. Cl Sun
r Hostaria Argentieri (26), I ¤¤¤. Cl Sun
r Gummer (1), old-style pub ¤¤. Cl Sat pm and Sun
r Batzenhäusl (5), traditional inn, hot food till 2am ¤-¤¤. Cl Tue
r Löwengrube (15), T with a Mediterranean accent ¤¤
r Fischbänke (11), in the old fish market. Cl Sat pm and Sun
r Nussbaumer (12), pizzeria, daily menus ¤. Cl Sat/Sun lunch
r La Posada (58), popular pizzeria ¤. Cl Sun
r Geier (8), pizzeria in Gries. Cl Sat lunch and Sun
r Belvedere Schönblick (3), light, modern cooking ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Thu
r Kohlern (39), T ¤¤. Cl Mon
r Weingartenhof (9), seasonal wine garden; ‘Törggelen’-style
r Ebnicherhof (50), lively, daily, Oct-March. ‘Törggelen’-style.
r Signaterhof (51), ‘Törggelen’ venue. Cl Mon
r Sonnleithenhof (49), ‘Törggelen’ under old trees, seasonal.
Brenner Pass 9, 10, 11, 14, 30, 32, 33, 34
Bressanone see Brixen
Brixen/Bressanone 34, 35, 36-7, 135 (for location of restaurants see red numbers on the plan)
r Finsterwirt (56), panelling, garden terrace, high-quality cooking ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Sun pm, Mon
r Elephant (32), T, famous ‘Elephant special’, book ahead! ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Thu
r Fink (31), bistro/rest., T, ¤¤-¤¤¤; Cl Tue pm, Wed
r Goldenes Lamm (24), traditional tavern ¤¤. Cl Tue
r Valentina (8), I and excellent pizzas; book ahead! ¤¤. Cl Mon.
r Kutscherhof (60), pub; large terrace, ¤-¤¤. Cl Mon
r Senoner (5), high-quality T/I ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Mon
Bruneck/Brunico 71, 74, 75, 56, 78, 80 (for location of restaurants see red numbers on the plan; NB: most restaurants are closed Sat pm and Sun!)
r Künstlerstübele (8), T/I ¤-¤¤
r Tabula (7), in the new town hall, large terrace, T ¤¤. Cl Sun
r Enoteca Bernardi (9), winebar, terrace, ¤-¤¤. Op Mon-Sat 10.00-24.00
r Blitzburg (16), T/I, garden ¤-¤¤. Cl Mon
r Bistrokücherle (23), antipasti, pizzas and high-quality snacks ¤
r Goldener Löwe (13), good pizzas, very full in the evenings ¤. Cl Sun
r Enoteca Bologna (24), wine bar with high-quality snacks, ¤-¤¤. Op Mon-Sat 16.30-22.30, Tue-Sat also 10.00-12.00
r Forst Bierstuben (12), beer garden, interesting menu ¤¤
Brunico see Bruneck
Buchenstein/Pieve di Livinallongo 167
Buffaure, mountain group 145
Bulacia see Puflatsch
Buses 12
Cadin, mt. 185
Cadipietra see Steinhaus
Cadore 183
Calalzo di Cadore 14, 176, 184, 185
Campill/Longiarü 134
r Tlisörahof, T ¤-¤¤
r Lüch de Vanc, T ¤-¤¤
Campitello/Ciampedel 155
Campo Tures see Sand in Taufers
Campolongo Pass 124, 125, 166, 173
Canale d’Àgordo 165, 166, 171
Canazei 148-9 (for location of restaurants see red numbers on the plan)
r De Tofi, Hotel Astoria (7), I/French ¤¤-¤¤¤
r La Stalla (4), fine I/Ladin ¤¤¤. Cl Mon
r Laurin (9), hotel pizzeria ¤
r Obelics (17), I/pizzas ¤-¤¤. Cl Mon
r Rosticceria Gourmet (5), I/pizzas ¤-¤¤
r Cesa Melester (20), T/I ¤¤
Caprile 172, 174
Cassere see Kasern
Castelrotto see Kastelruth
Catinaccio see Rosengarten
Catinaccio d’Antermoia see Kesselkogel
Cavalese 156
r Costa dei Salici, I ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Mon pm and Tue
Chienes see Kiens
Chiusa see Klausen
Ciampàc, mt./ski area 151-2 (also r)
Ciampinoi, mt. 119, 120-1
Cibiana 184
Cinque Torri, mt. 169, 179
Civetta Group 171, 172, 173
Climate and weather 28
Col (pass)
de Mezdi 181
di Lana 168
Raiser 117 (with r)
Colfosco see Kolfuschg
Communications 29
Compatsch 52, 55, 56
r see Seiser Alm
Cortina d’Ampezzo 174-5, 177 (for location of restaurants see red numbers on the plan)
r Tivoli (3) fine I ¤¤¤+. Cl Mon
r Baita Fraina (24), fine I/T ¤¤¤. Cl Mon
r Da Beppo Sello (5), fine T ¤¤¤. Cl Tue
r El Zòco (1), rustic, terrace T ¤¤. Cl Mon
r Cinque Torre (9), pizzeria/T ¤¤. Cl Thu
r La Perla (17), pizzeria, salads ¤
r L’Osteria (26), green oasis, T ¤
Corvara 124, 126-7
r La Stüa de Michil (Hotel La Perla), Michelin s ¤¤¤+. Cl Mon
r La Tambra, fine I/T, one of the best restaurants in the Dolomites ¤¤-¤¤¤
r Stüa (Hotel Zirm), T ¤¤
r Fornella, T/pizzas ¤-¤¤
r Alisander, T ¤¤
r Speckkeller, T ¤¤. Cl Wed
Cristallo, mt. 180
Croda da Lago, mt. 178
Croda Rossa di Sesto see Rotwand
Cuisine 16
Cycling 6, 14
Dantercëpies, lift 119
Deutschnofen/Nova Ponente 86
Dietenheim/San Theodone 76
Dobbiaco see Toblach
Dolomites
High Level Route 1 130-1
Museum of the 184
Dolomiti-Bellunesi National Park 171
Dolomiti Superbike 97
Dolomiti Superski 21
Drau River 103
Cycle path 103
Drei Zinnen/Tre Cime di Lavaredo, mt. 100, 104, 105, 181
Driving 10, 11
Dun 73
r Duner Heuschupfe, farm with haybaths, meals ¤¤. Op all year
Dürrensee/Lago di Landro 100
Dürrenstein, mt. 98
Eggental/Valle d’Ega 61-2
Ehrenburg, castle 77
Eisacktal/Valle Isarco 34, 41,
‘Elizabeth Promenade’ (Empress Elizabeth of Austria) 63
Emergencies 29
Enneberg/Marebbe 135
European Long-Distance Route E5 68
Events 22
Falcade 147
Fàlzes see Pfalzen
Fanes Group 137
Fanesalm 124, 130-1, 137
Fassatal/Val di Fassa 140, 150
Festivals 22
Fiè see Völs
Fiera di Primiero 161
Fischburg, village and castle 117
Fischleintal/Val Fiscalina 105
Fleimstal/Val di Fiemme 156
Fodara Vedla, hut 138-9, 139
Fundres see Pfunders
Gadertal/Val Badia 123, 133, 134,
Geisler Group 25, 34-5, 43, 44, 44-5
Gemärk Pass/Passo di Cimabanche 100
Giessbach 76-7
Gitschberg, mt./ski area 71, 72
Great Dolomite Road 62, 178
Grödner Joch/Passo di Gardena 126-7
Grödner Tal (Gröden)/Val Gardena 108, 115, 116, 122
Gsieser Tal/Valle di Casies 91, 92
r Durnwald, in Unterplanken, Pustertal specialities ¤¤. Cl Mon
Günther Messner Trail 45
Hay baths 49, 53
Helm/Monte Elmo 107
History 30
Hochabteital/Alta Badia 123
Hochpustertal/Alta Pusteria 93
Höhlensteintal/Valle di Landro 94-5, 100, 180
Horse-riding 21
Huts, mountain 16
Ibsen, Henrik 47
Illness 26
Innichen/San Candido 100, 101, 102
r Wiesthaler, dating from 1550 and somewhat below street level (no wonder, it’s so old!); featuring local lamb, T ¤¤
r Sommelier, I ¤¤
r Kupferdachl, T, grills ¤¤
r Uhrmachers, wine bar with snacks ¤-¤¤. Op daily 10am-12pm
r Da Claudia, trattoria-pizzeria, I ¤¤; daily menus ¤. Cl Sun
r Miramonti, grill-pizzeria ¤
Karer
Lake (Karersee)/Lago di Carezza 5, 65
Pass/Passo di Costalunga 12, 62, 140
Karnol 40
Kasern/Cassere 86-7
r Café-Jausenstation Petra, rustic meals and snacks, ice creams ¤
Kastelruth/Castelrotto 2, 50, 51, 52
r Goldenes Rössl, hotel rest. with exquisite T; ¤¤-¤¤¤. Reserve! www.cavallino.it.
r Turmwirt, garden; café; superb T/I. ¤¤. Reserve!
r St. Michael, traditional T and international dishes. ¤-¤¤
Kesselkogel/Catinaccio d’Antermoia, mt. 64, 146-7
Kiens/Chienes 77
Klausberg, mt./ski area 85
r Berggasthof Klausberg, hot meals, snacks, cakes ¤. Op all year
Klausen/Chiusa 40
r Ansitz Fonteklaus, hotel 400 m above Klausen, delicious I/T ¤¤. www.fonteklaus.it.
r Gasthof Goldener Engel, simple inn at the south end of town ¤-¤¤
r Krone, small station hotel, garden, traditional T ¤
Kofler zwischen den Wänden 81
Kolfuschg/Colfosco 125
r La Stria fine T/I ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Sun pm, Mon
r Luianta T ¤¤
r Matthiaskeller T ¤¤
‘Krampus’ 95
Kreuztal/Valcroce 40
Krimmler Tauern, mt. 86-7
Kronplatz/Plan de Corones, mt./ski area 78
La Pli de Mareo (Enneberg Pfarre/ Pieve di Marebbe) 136
r Gran Ciasa, Ladin cooking on request ¤¤. Cl Fri
La Valle see Wengen
La Villa/La Ila see Stern
Lace 25, 85, 110
Ladins 111, 134, 143, 150, 166, 167
Lagazuoi, pass 179
Laghi di Colbricon, lakes 159
Lago (lake)
di Àlleghe 172, 173
di Antermoia 146-7
di Anterselva see Antholzersee
di Braies see Pragser Wildsee
di Carezza see Lake, Karer
di Dobbiaco see Toblacher See
di Fedaia 153, 154
di Landro see Dürrensee
di Misurina 100, 180, 182-3
di Pozze 148
r Miralago, www.dolomiti.com/ miralago
Lagorai Group 156-7, 158
Lajen/Laion 42
Langental/Vallunga 118
Langkofel/Sassolungo, mt. 115, 120-1, 121, 155
Lappach/Lappago 82
Latemar Group 65, 68
Laurin, King 64
Lavarela, mt. 128, 130-1
Lavazè Pass 68
Lifts 8
Lindenweg 70
Longarone 185
Longiarü see Campill
Lüsen/Luson 40
Lüsner Tal/Valle di Luson 40
Luttach/Lutago 84
Mahler, Gustav 95
Malga Ciapela 154
Maps 27
Maranza see Meransen
Marebbe see Enneberg
Maretsch, castle 56-7
Maria Weissenstein 67
r Gasthof Weissenstein, self-service ¤. wwwlpmw.it
Marmarole Group 185
Marmolada Group 154
Mazzin 146-7
Meida 143
Meransen/Maranza 71
r S’Pfandl, local and international cooking ¤-¤¤. Cl Mon
Messner, Reinhold 43, 184
Mills Nature Trail 73
Mining 85, 161
Misurina, see Lago di
Moèna 145, 151
r Malga Panna, I, Michelin s, reserve! ¤¤¤+. Cl Mon
r Nibada, pub/snacks ¤. Cl Mon
Moiazza, mt. 170
Molini di Tures see Mühlen
Money/banks 26
Mongeulfo see Welsberg
Mont de Sëura, mt. 117
Monte (mountain)
Elmo see Helm
Pana 117
Pelmo 174
Piana 94-5, 100, 180
Rite/alpine museum 184
Monzoni Group 145, 147
Moos/San Giuseppe 105
r Martina, rest./pizzeria ¤¤.
r Reider, T ¤
Mühlbach/Rio di Pusteria 69, 103
r Pichler, refined T ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Mon and Tue noon
Mühlen/Molini di Tures 82
Mühlwalder Tal/Val dei Molini 82
Natural Parks
Fanes-Sennes-Prags 96, 130-1, 136, 137, 138-9
Hohe Tauern 86-7
Paneveggio/Pale di San Martino 159, 161, 162-3, 163
Puez-Geisler/Odle 44, 44-5, 114, 118
Rieserferner-Ahrn 82, 86-7,
Schlern 53, 55, 60
Sexten Dolomites 96, 103, 104, 105, 106, 181
Neustift Monastery 38
Niederdorf/Villabassa 97
r Adler, hotel, T ¤¤. Cl Tue. www. hoteladler.com
Nova Levante see Welschnofen
Nova Ponente see Deutschnofen
Nuvolau, mt. 165, 169, 178
Obereggen/San Floriano 68
Odles Deores see Aferer Geisler
Olang/Valdaora 78
r Hotel Post, T ¤¤
Olympic Games 178
Ortisei see St. Ulrich
Ötzi 58
Padon, mt. ridge 153, 164-5, 167
Pale di San Martino, mt. group 161
Palmschoss/Plancios 40
r see Afers
Panascharte 114
Paneveggio 159, 161
Passo (pass)
di Campolongo 167
di Costalunga see Karer Pass
di Falzàrego 168, 169, 178
di Gardena see Grödner Joch
di Valparola 128, 168
Fedaia 154
Giau 178
Pordoi/Pordoijoch 152, 164-5
Rolle 159 (also r)
San Pellegrino 140, 147, 148
Pederoa 132
r La Ciasota T ¤-¤¤
Pederü 138-9
Pedratsches/Pedraces 130, 132
r L’Nagler, bar-pizzeria ¤
r Badia Pub, Guiness!, snacks ¤
Peitlerkofel/Sass de Pútia, mt. 44-5
Penìa 151
r Vecchio Vernel (18 on Canazei plan on pages 148-9), I/grill/ pizzeria ¤-¤¤
Pera 143, 145
Pfalzen/Fàlzes 73
r Tanzer, hotel, excellent T ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Tue, Wed lunch. www.tanzer.it
r Schöneck, in Issing, gourmet temple, one of the best restaurants in South Tyrol ¤¤¤+
Pfunderer Tal 72
Pfunders/Fundres 72
r Gasthof Brugger, simple T ¤-¤¤
r Gasthof Weissteiner, at the end of an access road, quiet, T ¤-¤¤
Piani Pezzé 172
Pieve di Cadore 184
Pieve di Livinallongo see Buchenstein
Piz Boé, mt. 126-7
Piz la Ila, mt. 128
Plan
de Corones see Kronplatz
de Gralba 119
Plätzwiese/Prato Piazza 98
Plose, mt./ski area 39
Ponte Gardena see Waidbruck
Pordoijoch see Passo Pordoi
Porta Vescovo, pass 167
Pozza di Fassa 143, 145, 151
Pragser Tal/Val di Braies 97
r Brückele, in Ausserprags, T ¤¤. Cl Mon. www.hotel-brueckele.it
Pragser Wildsee/Lago di Braies, lake 98, 99
Pralongia, mt. 128
Prato Piazza see Plätzwiese
Predazzo 158
r Ancora, fine I ¤¤¤. Op daily
Predoi see Prettau
Prettau/Predoi 85
Mining Museum 85
Primiero Valley 160
Prösels, castle 49
Puez Group 122, 127, 128-9, 131
Puflatsch/Bulacia, mt. 54
Pustertal/Val Pustria 69, 70-1, 103
Rail travel 9, 14
Raschötz/Rasciesa, mt. ridge 113
Rasen/Rasun 89
Rautal/Valle di Tamores 137
Regglberg 67, 68
Rein in Taufers/Riva di Tures 82
r Florian, pizzeria ¤. Cl Tue
Reintal/Valle di Riva 82
Reischach/Riscone 76
Rienz River 97
Rio di Pusteria see Mühlbach
Riscone see Reischach
Riva di Tures see Rein in Taufers
Rodella/Piz Rodela, mt. 140-1, 155 (also r)
Rodeneck/Rodengo 31, 70
Rodengo see Rodeneck
Rosengarten/Catinaccio Group 8, 59, 60-1, 64, 65, 66,
Rosszähne/Denti di Terrarossa 53, 55, 56
Rotwand/Croda Rossa di Sesto 106
Runch 132
Runkelstein, castle 58
S. Cassiano see St. Kassian
S. Cristina see St. Christina
S. Giovanni see St. Johann in Ahrn
S. Leonardo see St. Leonhard
S. Martino in Badia see St. Martin in Thurn
S. Vigilio see St. Vigil
Säben Monastery 41
St. Andrä/S. Andrea 40
St. Christina/S. Cristina 115, 117
r Bruno, T and pizzeria ¤-¤¤
r Villa Sella, near the Col Raiser lift, café with good pizza ¤
r Iman, T and pizzeria ¤-¤¤
r Susi, T/I ¤-¤¤
St. Georgen/San Giorgio 76
r Hotel Tirolerhof rest., excellent T, good house wines ¤¤
St. Jakob (St. Ulrich/Ortisei) 112
St. Johann in Ahrn/S. Giovanni 84
St. Kassian/S. Cassiano 128
r Saint Hubertus (Hotel Rosa Alpina), fine I/T ¤¤-¤¤¤
St. Leonhard/S. Leonardo 130-1, 131
St. Lorenzen/San Lorenzo 77
r Saalerwirt, T ¤¤. Cl Tue. www. saalerwirt.suedtirol.com
r Zur alten Post, opposite the church, traditional T/I ¤-¤¤
St. Magdalena/S. Maddalena 43
r Ranuimüllerhof, hotel, good rest., specialities of the week ¤¤
St. Martin in Thurn/S. Martino in Badia 134
St. Peter/S. Pietro 42, 43
r Pizzeria Viel Nois (cl Mon ex Aug) ¤
St. Ulrich/Ortisei 15, 109, 110-11 (for location of restaurants see red numbers on the plan)
r Concordia (2), high-quality T/I ¤¤¤. Cl Wed
r Vedi Mulin (15), good T and pizzas, crowded seating. ¤¤
r Dolomiti Madonna (17), grills, T ¤¤
r Mar Dolomi (19), tasty T, pizzas ¤¤. Op daily
St. Vigil/S. Vigilio 135, 136
r Ciolà, fine T/grill ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Thu
r Taberel, light T/wine bar ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Tue
r Les Alpes, rest./pizzeria ¤¤
r Garsun, in Mantena hamlet, Ladin, tiny (book!) ¤¤
r Vigiler Hof, hotel rest., terrace, Tiroler with I accents ¤¤
San Candido see Innichen
San Floriano see Obereggen
San Giacomo see St. Jakob
San Giorgio see St. Georgen
San Giovanni (Vigo) 142
San Lorenzo see St. Lorenzen
San Martino di Castrozza 160, 162-3
r Bel Sito da Anita excellent I/T. ¤¤. Op daily
r La Segheria, rest./pizzeria ¤. Op summer daily, winter weekends
r Malga Ces, 3 km outside town. Michelin rated; I/T ¤¤
San Theodone see Dietenheim
San Vito di Cadore 183
Sand in Taufers/Campo Tures 79, 80
r Drumlerhof popular for meals, snacks and ice cream ¤-¤¤
r Leuchtturm, fine I ¤¤¤. Cl Thu
r Spanglwirt, rustic T ¤¤. Cl Wed
r Sonne, grills/roasts ¤¤. Cl Sun
r Pizzeria Mausefalle ¤. Cl Mon
Santa Maria see Aufkirchen
Sass Maor, mt. 162
Sass Rigais, mt. 43
Sass Sòngher, mt. 124, 127
Sassolungo see Langkofel
Schlern/Sciliar, mt. 48-9, 53, 54, 55, 65
‘Schützen’ 23, 111
Sciliar see Schlern
Seasons 8, 15
Sebatum, Roman site 77
Seceda, mt. 114, 115
Seis/Siusi 47, 51
r Trotzstube, ambitious menu, busy: book! ¤¤. Cl Mon
r Ritterhof, café/rest. ¤¤. Cl Mon
r Steinbock, T/I, terrace ¤¤. Cl Wed
Seiser Alm 47, 52, 53, 54, 55, 115 (also r)
r Spitzbühl Hut, panoramic mountain inn on Spitzbühl, reached by chair lift from near Compatsch ¤
r Rauch Hut, on the road to Salten ¤
Sella Group 121, 125, 126-7, 128-9
Sellajoch/Passo di Sella 120-1
Sella Ronda 122
Selva see Wolkenstein
Sennes Group 137, 138-9, 139
Sesto see Sexten
Sexten/Sesto 103
r Tiroler Stub’n, high-quality T ¤¤¤. Cl Mon
r Grüne Laterne, popular local rest./café ¤-¤¤
r Waldruhe, T ¤
Shopping 24
Siror 163-4
Siusi see Seis
Sonnenburg Nunnery 77
r Schloss Sonnenburg, hotel/rest. ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Mon-Tue. www. sonnenberg.com
Soraga/Sorega 145
Sorapis, mt. 182
Speikboden/Monte Spico, mt./ski area 84
Sports 19, 20
Stallersattel, pass 88, 90
Steinegg 61
Steinhaus/Cadipietra 84
Stern/La Villa/La Ila 128, 129, 130-1
r Blumine (Hotel La Villa) good I/T, tiny (reserve!) ¤¤¤
r Ciastel Colz, fine T/I ¤¤¤
r L’Fana, pizzeria/grill ¤-¤¤
Tagusens/Tagusa 51
r See under Tisens
Taisten/Tésido 92
r Seppila, farmhouse specialities ¤¤. Cl Wed except in summer
Tauferer Tal/Val di Tures 70-1, 79
Taufers Castle 79, 80
‘Teiser Kugeln’ 44
Terenten/Terento 73
Tèsero 157
r Molin, I ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl Tue
r Darial, agriturismo raising goats (fine cheeses!) ¤¤. Cl Mon
Tésido see Taisten
Thurn, castle/Ciastel de Tor 134
Tiers/Tires 59, 60
Tierser Alpl 55, 56
Tierser Tal/Val di Tires 59
Tires see Tiers, Tierser
Tisens/Tisana 51, 52
r Lieg, halfway between Tisens and Tagusens, farmland setting, T and pizzas ¤. Cl Wed
Titian (Tiziano Vecellio) 183
Toblach/Dobbiaco 94, 96, 100, 102
r Gasthof Ranalter ¤-¤¤.Cl Fri
r Ra Stüa, tiny, excellent pizzeria ¤
r Nocker, in Neutoblach ¤¤. Cl Tue
r Seiterhof, in Kandellen, excellent Pustertal cooking ¤¤. Cl Tue
Toblacher See/Lago di Dobbiaco, lake 100
Tofana Group 179 (also r)
Tonadico 160, 164
‘Törggelen’ 18
Transaqua 163
r Simoni, I/T ¤
Transhumance 22, 24
Tre Cime di Lavaredo see Drei Zinnen
Trenker, Luis 111, 112
Trostburg 47
Tschamintal/Valle di Camin 60
Vajolet Towers, mt. 66, 146, 146-7
Val
Badia see Gadertal
Canali 163, 164
Contrin 152 (also r)
d’Ega see Eggental
de Mezdi 126-7, 127
dei Molini see Mühlwalder Tal
di Anterselva see Antholzer Tal
di Fassa see Fassatal
di Fiemme see Fleimstal
di Funes see Villnösstal
di Molins 134, 135
di Tures see Tauferer Tal
di Valles see Valser Tal
Fiscalina see Fischleintal
Gardena see Grödner Tal
Pusteria see Pustertal
Travignolo 158, 159
Valbiois 171
Valdaora see Olang
Valle
Aurina see Ahrntal
di Braies see Pragser Tal
di Camin see Tschamintal
di Casies see Gsieser Tal
di Landro see Höhlensteintal
di Luson see Lüsner Tal
di Riva see Reintal
di San Pellegrino 147
di Tamores see Rautal
di Tires see Tierser Tal
Isarco see Eisacktal
San Silvestro see Wählen
Vallunga see Langental
Valser Tal/Val di Valles 69
Vandoies see Vintl
Vigo di Fassa 140-1, 142, 143, 144-5
r La Grotta, pizzeria ¤
r Vich, pizza and simple dishes ¤
r Osteria Mirella, good I, cl Tue
‘Viles’, the Ladin 132, 133, 134, 166
Villabassa see Niederdorf
Villnöss/Funes 44-5
Villnösstal/Val di Funes 34-5, 42
Vintl/Vandoies 72
r Lodenwirt, hotel-rest. ¤¤. www. lodenwirt.it
r Tilia, at Obervintl, fine I ¤¤¤. Book! Cl Tue, Wed
Völs/Fiè 48
r Emmy, hotel above Völs, rest. ¤¤. www.hotel-emmy.com
r Romantikhotel Turm, fine I/T ¤¤-¤¤¤.Cl Thu. www.hotelturm.it
r Zum Schlern, emphasis on ‘bio’ products, owner-chef ¤¤
Völser Weiher/Lagetto de Fié 50
r Gasthaus Völser Weiher, T ¤¤
Wahlen/Valle San Silvestro 96
Waidbruck/Ponte Gardena 42
Walking 6, 19
Wall paintings 142
Weisslahnbad 60
Welsberg/Monguelfo 90, 92
r Goldener Löwe, T/I, pizza from wood fires ¤-¤¤. Cl Mon
Welsberg Castle 91
Welschnofen/Nova Levante 62, 63
r Mondschein, terrace, T/I, pizzas till 23.00 ¤-¤¤. Cl Mon
r Engel, natural and diet foods at lunch, high-class evening cooking ¤¤-¤¤¤. Op daily
r Rosengarten, rustic to refined cooking, fresh fish Fri ¤¤. Cl Mon
r Weisses Rössl, hotel, good cooking ¤¤. Op daily
r Goldenes Kreuz, large terrace, rest., pizzas ¤-¤¤. Cl Tue
r Grillstube Marion, grilled steaks, etc 18.00 till 22.30 ¤¤. Cl Tue
Wengen/La Valle 132, 133
Winter sports 21
Wolkenstein/Selva 114, 118-9, 120-1, 122 (for location of restaurants see red numbers on the plan)
r Pranives (6), popular pizzeria ¤
r Zum Hirschen (7), T/I, pizzas ¤-¤¤
r Laurinkeller (22), T and international, live music ¤¤-¤¤¤. Cl lunchtimes in winter
r Miravalle (8), T, pizza ¤-¤¤
r Rino (18), T, pizza ¤-¤¤
Wolkenstein Castle (ruins) 118
Woodcarving 25
Zanser Alm 44-5, 46
r Zanser Alm ¤. Op May-Nov
r Gampenalm, on the route from Zans car park to the Rifugio Genova. Op early Jun-early Sep and in the winter ‘season’ ¤.
Zoldano Valley 174

Dolomites and South Tyrol, 1st ed (2010), updated 23/10/13

Updates for walks and all general information given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

Walk 5: A user wrote to me last year about problems reaching the Santner Pass. I went back this year to investigate, and I found the probable mistake: the steep but easy climb begins directly behind the Rosengarten Hut. After about 15 minutes it leads to a more or less flat area just below towering walls. This sort of “gigantic step” in a giant’s staircase is covered with scree – and this is where the proper path to the Santner Pass starts. The path is well marked and signposted all the way up – unmissable. I can only assume last year’s party of walkers started straight from the hut but did not first do the climb up the rockface behind the hut. And it looks like there were no signs telling them it was the wrong way. It’s my fault; I ought to have specified that one must first climb up the rockface behind the hut. (Author, 10/13)