Walking in Andalucia

Most visitors stay on the coast, but if your main interest is walking, it is a good idea to stay in the mountains, for instance at Capileira, Cumbres Verdes, Cómpeta, Viñuela, Colmenar, El Burgo, Grazalema or Benaocaz.

7 car tours, 40 long and short walks, 23 picnic suggestions
144 pages + touring map; plan of Marbella, large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
5th ed, 2015; ISBN 978-1-85691-472-7; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $17.99

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Nature notes 6
Country code for walkers, motorists and picnickers 7
Language (and Glossary) 8
Picnicking 9
Touring 14

THE ALPUJARRA (TOUR 1) 16
Almuñécar · Orgiva · Pampaneira · Bubión · Capileira · Pitres · Pórtugos · Trevélez · Vélez de Benaudalla · Almuñécar

SIERRA NEVADA (TOUR 2) 21
Almuñécar · (Detour 1: Canal de la Espartera) · (Detour 2: Sierra Nevada Visitor Centre · Maitena Visitor Centre) · Granada: the Alhambra · Armilla · Jayena · Otívar · Jete · Almuñécar

THE AXARQUIA (TOUR 3) 27
Cueva de Nerja · Frigiliana · Cómpeta · Canillas de Albaida · Salares · Canillas de Aceituno · Puente Don Manuel · Vélez Málaga · Torre del Mar · Torrox Costa · Cueva de Nerja

ANTEQUERA AND THE LAKES (TOUR 4) 32
Torremolinos · Parque Natural Torcal de Antequera · (Antequera) · El Chorro Nature Reserve · Carratraca · Torremolinos

SIERRA DE MIJAS (TOUR 5) 35
Benalmádena Costa · Mijas · Puerto de los Pescadores · Fuengirola · Benalmádena Costa

SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES (TOUR 6) 38
Marbella · (Istán) · San Pedro · Ronda · El Burgo · Guaro · Monda · Ojén · Marbella

SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA (TOUR 7) 43
Ronda · Villaluenga del Rosario · Benaocaz · Ubrique · El Bosque · Benamahoma · Puerto del Boyar · Grazalema · Ronda

WALKING
Grading and timing 47
Waymarking and maps 48
Where to stay 49
Getting about 49
Weather 49
What to take 51
Potential hazards 52
Organisation of the walks 52

WALKS IN THE ALPUJARRA
1 Busquístar · Baños de Panjuila · Ferreirola · Atalbéitar · Busquístar 53
2 Capileira: the three bridges 57
3 Río Naute and the Mulhacén approach 60
4 Three Andalusian villages: Capileira, Bubión and Pampaneira 66
5 Pampaneira · Soportújar · Carataunas · Orgiva 68

WALKS IN THE SIERRA NEVADA
6 Camino de la Estrella (Pathway to the Star) 71
7 Collado de las Sabinas 75
8 Toma del Canal 77
9 Boca de la Pesca 81

WALKS IN THE AXARQUIA
10 Cueva de Nerja · La Civila · Cortijo Almachares · Cueva de Nerja 85
11 Frigiliana 90
12 Fábrica de la Luz and Cueva de Melero 94
13 Alcaucín Valley: Ventas de Zafarraya to Puente Don Manuel 96

WALK IN EL CHORRO NATURE RESERVE
14 El Chorro Gorge and the Camino del Rey 101

WALKS IN THE SIERRA DE MIJAS
15 Woodland slopes 104
16 The beehive walk 108

WALKS IN THE SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES
17 Marbella · Puerto de Marbella · Olivar de Juanar · El Cerezal · Ojén 111
18 Istán 115
19 Río del Burgo 119
20 Peñón de los Enamorados (Lovers’ Rock) 123

WALKS IN THE SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA
21 Grazalema · Merendero del Boyar · Llano de las Presillas · Llano del Endrinal · Grazalema 128
22 Benaocaz · Casa del Dornajo · Puerto del Boyar · Salto del Cabrero · Benaocaz 133
23 Río El Bosque 139

Bus and train timetables 141
Index (of geographical names) 143
Touring map/plan of Marbella inside back cover

Agrón 22
Alayos de Dilar 78-9, 82
Alhambra 22
Almuñécar 16, 20, 21, 23
Alozaina 41
Alpujarra 16-20, 53-70
Antequera 33
Armilla 22
Arroyo
de Huenes 23, 78-9, 84
de la Cueva de Melero 94
de la Fuensanta 11, 120-1
de las Colmenas 108, 109, 110
del Laurel 108, 110
del Pajarito 11, 130-1, 133, 138
Atalbeitar 53, 54, 56
Axarquía 27-31, 85-98
Baños de Panjuila 53, 54, 55
Barranco
de la Coladilla 85, 86, 88-9
de los Tejos 72-3, 75, 76,
de San Juan 71, 72-3
del Buho 77, 78-9, 80, 84
Bayacas 10, 17, 68-69, 70
Benalmádena 35, 37, 141 (TT)
Benamahoma 11, 45, 130-1, 139, 140, 142 (TT)
Benaocaz 11, 44, 130-1, 133, 134, 138, 142 (TT)
Boca de la Pesca 24, 77, 78-9, 81, 82
Boquete de Zafarraya 30, 96, 97, 98-9
Bubión 18, 59, 66, 67, 141 (TT)
Busquístar 9, 19, 53, 54, 56
Camino
de la Cuesta del Cielo 86, 88-9
de la Estrella 26, 71, 72-3, 74
de las Minas 86, 88-9
de las Nieves 124-5, 126, 127
del Rey 101, 102, 103
Real de Granada 97, 100
Cañada del Cuerno 6-7, 124-5, 127
Canal de la Espartera 24, 77, 78-9, 82
Canillas de Albaida 10, 29, 94
Capileira 2, 9, 12, 18, 57, 59, 60, 61, 65, 66, 141 (TT)
Carataunas 17, 68-9, 70, 141 (TT)
Carratraca 34
Carrigüelas 50, 54, 55
Casa de Prado Redondo 72-3, 75, 76
Casabermeja 32
Cerro de las Pipas 78-9, 81, 82
Cerro Nicolás 42, 112
Churriana 34
Collado
de las Sabinas 72-3, 75, 76
de los Apretaderos 85, 88-9
de Trevenque 77, 78-9
Cómpeta 29
Conejeras 13
Cortijo de Buena Vista 94, 95
Cortijos
de la Civila 85, 87, 88-9
de Panjuila 9, 20, 54, 55
Cueva de Melero 94
El Bosque 45, 130-1, 139, 140, 142 (TT)
El Burgo 11, 40, 119, 120-1, 122
El Chorro Nature Reserve 10, 33-4, 101, 102, 103
El Desvío 25
El Dornajo see Sierra Nevada
El Nacimiento 11, 115, 117, 118
El Pinarillo 85, 86, 88-9
El Tajo 11, 117
El Torcal 13, 33
Embalse
de los Bermejales 12, 22
de Viñuela 12, 27
Entrerrios 36, 108, 110, 142 (TT)
Ermita
de Santa Ana 29, 94
del Calvario 15, 36, 37, 104, 105, 106
Espino 96, 97, 98-99
Estación de San Juan 10, 26, 71, 72-3, 74
Ferreirola 53, 54, 56
Frigiliana 27, 28, 88-9, 90, 92, 93, 141 (TT)
Fuengirola 37, 141 (TT), 142 (TT)
Fuente
Agria 12, 16, 18, 54, 56
del Esparto 85, 88-9
del Hervidero 23, 77, 78-9, 80, 81, 84
Granada 22
Grazalema 45, 46, 128, 130-1, 132, 133, 134, 142 (TT)
Güéjar Sierra 26, 71
Istán 11, 38, 42, 115, 116, 117, 118, 142 (TT)
Jayena 22
Juanar 11, 111, 112, 114
Jete 23
La Cebadilla 59, 60, 61
La Fuensanta 11, 40, 119, 120-1
La Molineta 27, 88-9, 91, 92, 93
La Poza 12, 18
La Ragije 12, 27
La Zubia 21, 24
Las Gabias 22
Maitena Visitor Centre 26, 71, 72-3, 74, 76
Málaga 141 (TT)
Malaha 22
Marbella 10, 38, 42, 111, 112, 141 (TT), 142 (TT)
Maro 88-9
Mijas 10, 35, 37, 104, 105, 106, 107, 141 (TT)
Monda 41
Mulhacén 60, 63-4, 65, 74
Nerja 27, 88-9, 90, 93, 141 (TT)
Cueva de Nerja 27, 31, 85-6, 88-9, 141 (TT); Puente de Aguila 27, cover
Ojén 42, 111, 112, 114, 142 (TT)
Orgiva 17, 66, 67, 68-9, 70, 141 (TT)
Otívar 23
Pampaneira 12, 15, 18, 59, 66, 67, 68-9, 141 (TT)
Parque Natural
de Ardales 33
Montes de Málaga 32
Sierra de las Nieves 13, 39, 123, 124-5, 126
Torcal de Antequera 13, 32-3
Peñon
de los Enamorados 123, 124-5
Grande 129, 130-1, 132
Pitres 18, 54
Pórtugos 12, 18, 54
Prado Llano 25, 26
Puente de los Siete Ojos 10, 24, 77, 78-9,
Puente Don Manuel 30, 96, 97, 100, 141 (TT)
Puerto
de los Pilones 123, 124-5, 127
de Marbella 111, 112, 114
del Boyar 11, 46, 130-1, 133, 137, 142 (TT)
Quejigales 123, 124-5, 127
Río
Alaminos 36, 37, 108, 110
Alcaucín 96, 97, 98
Chico 17, 68-9, 70
Chillar 27, 88-9, 90, 91, 93
del Burgo 11, 41, 119, 120-1, 122
Dilar 78-9, 81, 83
El Bosque 11, 46, 130-1, 139
Fuengirola 36, 37
Genil 26, 71, 72-3, 74, 76
Guadalete 11, 44, 46, 128, 130-1
Guadalfeo 16, 20, 21
Guadalhorce 102, 103
Guadalmedina 32
Guarnón 72-3, 74
Higuerón 88-9, 91-3
Naute 59, 60, 62,
Poqueira 9, 12, 17, 57, 59, 60, 62
Sanguino 87, 88-9
Seco 72-3, 75,
Trevélez 12, 19, 53, 54
Verde 42, 115, 118
Ronda 39, 43, 46, 142 (TT)
Salares 30, 31
Salobreña 16, 21
Salto del Cabrero 45, 130-1, 133, 138
San Pedro 38
Sierra
Blanca 111, 115, 117
de Grazalema 6, 7, 39, 43-46, 128-140
de las Nieves 6-7, 13, 38-42, 111-123, 124-5, 126-7
de Mijas 10, 35, 36, 37, 106
del Caillo 130-1, 134, 135
del Endrinal 130-1
del Pinar 130-1
Nevada 12, 18, 21-26, 71-84; Visitor Centre (El Dornajo) 21, 24, 25, 72-3
Soportújar 68-9, 141 (TT)
Torre del Mar 31, 141 (TT)
Torremolinos 32, 34, 141 (TT)
Torrox 29
Torrox Costa 31
Torviscón 20
Trevélez 12, 19
Trevenque 10, 24, 78-9
Ubrique 44, 142 (TT)
Vega de Granada 4-5, 21
Veleta 2, 25, 62-3, 68
Vélez de Benaudalla 20
Vélez Málaga 31
Ventas de Zafarraya 96, 97, 98, 141 (TT)
Villaluenga del Rosario 44, 130-1
Villanueva 32
Viñuela 12
Yunquera 40

Andalucía, 5th edition, published 2015, updated 15/02/18

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in Andalucía given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

Potential hazards: We had a holiday on the Costa del Sol this February, 2016, based in Nerja and Estepona, and had two weeks of good walking with the help of this guide. Though we personally came to no harm, we feel it might be worth your mentioning in Potential Hazards the Pine Processionary Caterpillars. We found one hand-written warning at the 6 minute point of Walk 15, but did not appreciate its significance and saw no caterpillars. Then on Walk 18 we saw many nests and trails, some as long as 92 caterpillars. Again we thought it a curiosity. It was not until we mentioned it to locals and googled the subject that we realised the potential danger ( from wind- blown, minute but urticarius caterpillar hairs} of walking near pine trees in January, February and March in Southern Spain and Portugal. They can cause symptoms varying from skin irritation to anaphylactic shock, and are particularly dangerous to children and pets. Certainly it reinforces the need for hats, long sleeves and long trousers. (User, 3/16)

Walk 1: no comments, excellent walk, nice canyon and three white villages. (User, 10/17)

Walk 3: some trouble finding the start in Capileira, because it was not clear to me what the mirador was. We went down, that was the start of Walk 2. No big deal. Further on, after Las Tomas (3h35), the slope was full of small cattle tracks, and we did not succeed in finding the right one uphill to the Acequia Alta, and after some stumbling we descended and followed the Acequia Baja (Alternative walk). (User, 10/17)

Walk 11: Cami de las Cabras/Cueva de Nerja: again in the beginning we made a mistake. We were following the (dry) streambed too long, the track to the right uphill at 18m is easily missed, we did not see the Poco the Batán, nor the Information Board. Very beautiful, especially near the river, very tough up to the Collado de los Apretaderes. The part after the 2h01min-point in the Alternative walk 10 (p86) is rather overgrown. (User, 10/17)

Walk 12: We always use your sunflower landscape books. We are now touring in Andalicia and already made great walks and tours. Yesterday March 13th 2017 we did Walk 12. At the junction ( 29 minutes) at Cortijo El Chato you cannot go on because of a closed gate on the road. The farmer told us this is a private road. We returned the same way, not a pity because it is a beautiful path. (User, 3/17)

Walk 14: We visited on 7th October 2015.
As of March 2015 the local authorities opened the renovated Camino del Rey walkway all the way from the electricity substation (39 min point) to El Chorro. This walk includes a new bridge beside the old one, but may be closed during bad weather. This new boardwalk can only be walked under supervision and by obtaining a pre-booked ticket (all days up until Jan 2016 are booked)! When opened it was free but I understand that there will be a small charge introduced next year, also it is one way only, but there is a shuttle bus to return you to the starting point at the restaurant. More information can be found at www.caminitodelrey.info. At the time of our visit there were engineering works being carried out on the electrical substation and the short path around it to view the gorge was blocked off, unless you had a ticket to access the new boardwalk. I could not ascertain if this would be a permanent restriction once the engineering work was completed. (User, 10/15) + At the 39 min mark, it is no longer possible to go past the electricity substation as this is now fenced off as the assembly and starting point for the Camino del Rey. There is now a footpath (signed ‘Caminito del Rey 1.5 km’) through a narrow tunnel on the left of the road back to the start point that appears to go through the hill to a viewpoint for the Camino between the two gorges, unfortunately we didn’t have time to include this extension. (User, 2/16)

Walk 16: URGENT! THIS WALK APPEARS TO BE NO LONGER POSSIBLE. SEE FINAL UPDATE OF FEB 2018 BELOW. At Cortijo del Colmenar, the text says to squeeze between the end of the fence and the bank. If you do this you have to turn back along the fence through an area marked as Private Property (the ruined Cortijo appears to be being restored) and are faced by another tall fence with no way through. The correct route is as in the Fourth Edition but under the fence and downhill. But from the far end of the layby crawl under the padlocked section of fence and take the track which descends along the east side of the gully. This extract from Google Maps shows the route with the correct turn red-arrowed.

It looks as though one could avoid crawling under the fences onto and off the road here as there is a faint path alongside the fence and then following the west side of the Arroyo to meet the main path. This can be seen on the map above and may be an easier route. (User, 2/16) • There is now a more comprehensive bus service. The mini bus does not depart from the main terminus in Fuengirola near the railway station. It deprts for Entrerrios at 08.00, 13.00 and 1730 from a bus stop where the Avienda di Mijas(main street running inland from near the railway station) passes underneath the CN-340. The bus(which terninates about a km beyond Entrerrios) returns from Entrerrios half an our later. The detailed timetable is as follows:
http://www.mijas.es/portal/files/adjuntos/transportes/a5524_LINEAAUTOBUSURBANO.pdf
(User, 11/16) + I wish to report a serious issue with this walk. We attempted to do the walk on 8 February 2018 using the 2010 edition of the Sunflower book. I have since noted that the walk is in the 2015 edition (The beehive walk) and a update on your website dated 29 October 2017 provides an alternative route at the Cortijo del Colmenar but makes no mention of any other issues. At the 1 hour 31 minute point we clambered under a wire fence to the ashphalt road. It was obvious from the fence that other walkers had done the same. We followed the walk instructions to Cortijo del Colmenar and climbed under and over fences to attempt to pick up the footpath. We were stopped by the landowner and taken back to the fences. After this incident we decided to retrace our steps and returned to the 1 hour 31 minute point to get back under the fence. As we were retracing our steps back to the car we became aware of a 4 x 4 vehicle in the distance coming towards us at speed. We were walking along the dry river bed probably only 2 kilometres from our car when the landowner caught us up on foot. We were advised all the land was private and we were trespassing. We were escorted some distance to a low wire fence and the indication was this was where the land became private. I would estimate this was no more than the 20/25 minute point of the walk and that 80/90% of the walk is now on private land. This was not a pleasant experience. Although both gentlemen were courteous it was particularly unnerving being chased by a stranger in unknown territory. We did not know what his intentions were. We suspect the first landowner had contacted the second. (User, 2/18)

Walk 20: there was a problem, because one of the gates was closed, we had to walk some 2km more (and 2 back) to get to the campsite. After we returned the gate was open, but nobody knew why and when. In the walk itself: after 6m we did not see the track right, and missed the clue to go right after 16m. There was no Information Panel, and no cairns and no blue paint. At 2h34, climbing the Enamorados is easy, if you climb it from the left-hand side. (User, 10/17)

Walk 22: Grazalema: we started at Puerto del Boyar. It was indicated that the walk was closed, there was a track to the right of the gate, along the fence. We followed this, but it went nowhere, after some 5km it ended on the road to Benamahoma. Afterwards, we drove to Benaocaz and walked from there to the Salto del Cabrero (beautiful, full of vultures), and it seemed there were people coming from the north. (User, 10/17)