Walking in Picos de Europa
£12.00
25 long and short walks and a car tour with detours
by Teresa Farino
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A guidebook to walking in the Picos de Europa is northern Spain, featuring 25 of the best long and short day walks.
We cover the entire mountain range, consisting of three separate limestone massifs: Urrieles (central Picos), Cornión (western Picos), and Ándara (eastern Picos), showing trekking routes of varying difficulty, all of which are mapped in detail.
Many of the hikes are circular, taking in the top routes through one of Europe’s last mountain wilderness areas.
This guide also includes a car tour with several detour options, a touring map and free downloadable GPS tracks.
When to go: The best months for walking in the Picos de Europa are June to September.
Print book: £14.99 / PDF book: £12.00
Buy as a PDF download today:
The Picos de Europa, one of Europe’s last mountain wilderness areas, are the high point of a long ridge of mountains which runs along the north coast of Spain, the Cordillera Cantabrica.
Rising to 2648m (about 8700ft), the Picos are divided into three spectacular limestone massifs separated from one another, and from the surrounding ranges, by precipitous gorges – a truly spectacular area in which to trek or tour.
This guide contains a wealth of information about the dazzling array of plant and animal life you can expect to see when exploring the range.
The author, an all-round naturalist, has been living and walking in the Picos de Europa for almost 30 years. Together with Mike Lockwood, she has also written Sunflower’s guide to the Costa Brava.
To find out more about the author or to join one of her tours, visit iberianwildlife.com.
We found your book and it became our bible! I don’t think we have ever used a guide book more intensely or enjoyed one so much! (C&LM, Lowestoft)
We have walked and climbed in the Rockies and the Himalaya, but the Picos are unique, and we are so glad that we went. Your book contained so much information, together with the beautiful pictures and the very useful maps, that we felt we were really getting under the skin of this part of Spain. (MH, Glos)
Your walks took us through flower meadows awash with fragrance, buzzing with insect life and clouds of butterflies, through sleepy villages lined with cherry trees so heavily laden that fruit fell to the ground untouched, and up through steep mountain gorges with goats and donkeys for company. Thank you so much. (SP, Harrogate)
I have just returned from my third visit to the Picos de Europa and am writing to tell you what an absolute godsend your Sunflower book has been on all three visits. I am now hardly able to walk at all without poles but even so have been able to enjoy very short sorties from the car and obviously all the breathtaking sights from the miradors. Thank you again for your indispensable book – several of my friends have bought it after seeing my copy.
The best bases are Potes for the southern Picos, Cangas de Onís for the northern side and Arenas for the Cabrales region (including the Cares Gorge).
1 car tour with several detour options,
25 long and short walks, 5 picnic suggestions
136 pages; touring map; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
8th edition, 2022, ISBN 978-1-85691-535-9 UK retail price £14.99 / USA retail price $20.00
Table of contents:
Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Useful books 7
Getting about 8
Picnic suggestions 11
Short walks for motorists 13
TOURING
HIDDEN SECRETS OF THE PICOS DE EUROPA 24
Potes · Puerto de San Glorio · Portilla de la Reina · Puerto de Pandetrave · Posada de Valdeón · Puerto de Panderruedas · Desfiladero de los Beyos · Cangas de Onís · Arenas de Cabrales · Panes · Desfiladero de La Hermida · Potes
Detours
Caín 30
Covadonga 31
Sotres and Tresviso 32
Fuente Dé 34
WALKING
Guides, waymarking, maps 37
Where to stay 37
Weather hints 39
Clothing and equipment 39
Dogs – and other nuisances 40
General advice to walkers 42
Language hints 43
Glossary 44
Organisation of the walks 45
A country code for walkers and motorists 46
THE WALKS
LIEBANA: The sun-drenched southern valleys 47
1 Potes · Frama · Lubayo · Collado de Porcieda · Tudes · Porcieda · Invernal de Tolibes · Potes 48
2 Beges (Puente La Llambre) · Invernales de Panizales · Collado de Pelea · Invernales de la Prada · Allende · Bar El Desfiladero (N621) 56
3 La ruta de Tresviso 61
4 Somaniezo · Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Luz · Luriezo · Somaniezo 67
5 Puerto de San Glorio · Collado de Llesba · Invernal de Conjortes · Cosgaya 73
6 Fuente Dé (cable car) · Refugio de Aliva · Invernales de Igüedre · Espinama · Pido · Fuenfría · Fuente Dé 80
CABRALES AND COVADONGA: The northern reaches 91
7 La Garganta del Cares: Puente Poncebos · Caín · Puente Poncebos 92
8 Puente Poncebos · Bulnes (La Villa) · Bulnes (El Castillo) · Puente Poncebos 99
9 Picos de Macondiú: Jito de Escarandi · Vao de los Lobos · Casetón de Andara · (Pozo de Andara) · Jito de Escarandi 104
10 Lago de la Ercina · Vega Bricial · Vega de Enol · Lago Enol · Refugio Entrelagos · Lago de la Ercina 113
11 Lago de la Ercina · Majada de las Bobias · Llaguiellu · Collado El Jito · Vega de Ario · Majada de Belbín · Lago de la Ercina 118
Index 127
Fold-out map of the Picos de Europa inside back cover
Bus timetables reverse of fold-out map
FLORA AND FAUNA ILLUSTRATED IN THE BOOK:
Alytes obstetricans (male midwife toad) 66
Aquilegia discolor 109
Asphodelus albus (white asphodel) 71
Caltha palustris (marsh marigold) 78
Casina cow and calves 115
Cistus psilosepalus 53
Fraxinus excelsior (common ash) 55
Gentiana acaulis (trumpet gentian) 91
Gentiana lutea (great yellow gentian) 87
Geranium sanguineum (bloody cranesbill) 65
Gymnadenia conopsea (fragrant orchid) 60
Hemaris tityus (narrow-bordered bee-hawk) 42
Hepatica nobilis (hepatica) 71
Lilium martagon (martagon lily) 87
Linaria faucicola 113
Lysandra bellargus (Adonis blue butterfly) 66
Melanargia galathea (marbled white butterfly) 1
Pinguicula grandiflora (large-flowered butterwort) 125
Pulsatilla vernalis (spring pasque-flower) 81
Quercus suber (cork oak) 54
Salamandra salamandra (fire salamander) 64
Saturnia pyri (giant peacock moth) 47
Sempervivum cantabricum (Cantabrican houseleek) 87
Silene acaulis (moss campion) 104
Trollius europaeus (globeflower) 79
Ajero (crags) 56-7
Allende 56-7, 58-9, 60
Andara Massif 3, 24, 34-5, 37, 48-9, 52, 75, 88, 104
Arenas de Cabrales 9, 24, 28, 33, 38
Asiego 28
Asturias 6, 11, 25, 37, 81, 115
Avín 38
Balcón de Pilatos (viewpoint) 41, 61, 65
Bedoya (valley) 19
Beges 29, 56, 58-9, 104, 106-7, 112
Bulnes 94-5, 99, 102-3 see also Naranjo de Bulnes
Cabrales
parish 8-9
valley 8
see also Walks 7-9
Caín 24, 26, 30, 92, 93, 94-5, 98
Camarmeña 32, 93
Canales de Cabrales 16, 27
Cangas de Onís 9, 11, 24, 27, 31, 37-8
Cantabria (province) 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 19, 61, 70-1, 81
Cares Gorge 28, 30-1, 92, 93, 94-5, 97, 99, cover
Carreña de Cabrales 28
(El) Cascajal (peak) 77
Casaño (river) 16
Casetón de Andara (refuge) 104, 106-7, 108-9
Cicera 18-9
Colio 2
Collada (pass)
de la Aldea 106-7, 109
Collado (pass)
de Llesba 11, 12, 73, 74, 75
de Pelea 56, 58-9
de Porcieda 48, 51, 52
El Jito 120-1, 122
(Los) Collados (majada) 94-5
Cordillera Cantábrica 5, 70
Cordiñanes 30
Cornión Massif 3, 24, 37
Cosgaya 35, 73, 74, 78
Covadonga 9, 24, 31, 32
see also Walks 7, 10, 11
Cubo (river) 73, 74, 77, 78
Cuetodave (peak) 63
Desfiladero de La Hermida (gorge) 8, 24, 28, 56-7
Desfiladero de los Beyos (gorge) 24, 27
Espinama 35, 80, 82-3, 85
Frama 48-9, 51
Fuenfría 80, 82-3, 87
Fuente Dé 8, 12, 24, 29, 34-5, 38, 80, 82-3, 85, 87
(La) Hermida 28, 56, 104, 106-7
see also Desfiladero de La Hermida
Horno del Doblillo (zinc ovens) 104, 106-7, 112
Invernal (a barn where livestock spends the winter)
de Conjortes 73, 74, 76
de Tolibes 48, 51, 55
de Hoja 106-7, 111
Invernales
de Igüedre 80, 82-3, 85
de la Prada 56, 58-9
de Panizales 56-7, 58-9
de Prías 61, 66
Jito de Escarandi (crossroads) 33, 104-5, 106-7, 110, 112
Lago (lake)
de la Ercina 11, 32, 113, 117-8, 120-1, 122-3, 126
Enol 32, 112-3, 117, 120-1
León
city 8-9; province 81
Liébana (valley) 8, 47-90, 48-9, 110-1
Llaguiellu (vega) 118, 120-1
Llánaves de la Reina 13, 25
Llanes 9
Llano Los Jitos (pass) 120-1, 122
(Los) Llanos 35, 80, 82-3, 89
Lubayo 48, 50, 51
Luriezo 67, 68-9, 71
Macondiú (mountain peaks) 104-12, 106-7, 108
Majada (a barn where livestock spends the summer)
de Belbín 118, 120-1, 125
de las Bobias 118-9, 120-1
Mirador (viewpoint)
de la Reina 32
de Piedrashitas 12, 26
del Naranjo 93
del Tombo 14, 30-1
Mieses 34, 38
Mogrovejo 80, 82-3, 89
(La) Molina 16
Mosquital (peak) 120-1, 122-3
Mostajal (stream) 12
Naranco (valley) 13, 14-5
Naranjo de Bulnes (mountain peak) 28
Nuestra Señora de la Luz (chapel) 67, 68-9
Ojedo 29
Oseja de Sajambre 22-3, 27
Oviedo (city) 9
Panes 8-9, 24, 28
Peña (mountain peak)
Oviedo 80, 82-3, 88
Remoña 82-3, 86
Sagra 67, 68-9, 72-3
Vieja 12, 88-9
Peñarrubia (mountain range) 63
Pica Ten (peak) 22-3
Picos de Europa National Park 31, 96, 118
Pido 80, 82-3, 85
Póo de Cabrales 28
Porcieda 48, 51, 53
Portilla de la Reina 24, 25
Posada de Valdeón 14, 24, 26, 30
Potes 8, 24, 25, 29, 34, 37, 38, 48-9, 51, 55
Pozo de Andara (marshland) 104, 106-7, 108-9
Puente (bridge)
del Jardu 94-5, 100, 101
de los Rebecos 94-5, 97
La Llambre 56, 58-9
Romano 27
Puente Poncebos 9, 32, 92, 94-5, 98-9, 103
Puerto (pass)
de Panderruedas 12, 24, 26
de Pandetrave 24, 26
de Pembes 80, 82-3, 88
del Pontón 26
de San Glorio 8, 11, 24, 72-3, 74
Pumareña 20
(La) Quintana 110-1
Refugio (mountain refuge)
de Aliva 80, 82-3, 88-9
de Ario 120-1, 123
de Tajahierro 13, 14-5
Entrelagos 113, 117, 120-1
San Miguel (chapel) 34-5
San Pedro de Bedoya 19
San Pelayo 35, 38
Santa María de Lebeña (church) 29, 58-9
Santa Marina de Valdeón 26, 29, 39
Santander (city) 8-9
Santo Toribio de Liébana (monastery) 34
Somaniezo 67, 68-9, 70, 72
Soto de Valdeón 26, 39
Sotres 17, 24, 28, 32, 33, 104, 106-7
see also Vegas de Sotres
Tama 29
Tesorero (peak) 80, 82-3, 84
Tielve 33
Tresviso 24, 28, 32-3, 61, 66
La ruta de Tresviso 41, 61, 62, 63, 64-6
Tudes 48, 51, 53
Turieno 35, 38
Urdón 28, 61, 66
Urrieles Massif 3, 24, 37, 52, 75
Valdeón (valley) 8
Vao de los Lobos 104-5, 106-7, 112
Vega (alpine grassland)
Bricial 113, 115, 120-1
de Ario 118, 120-1, 123
de Enol 113, 116, 120-1
Vega de Liébana (village) 24, 38
Vegas de Sotres 16-7, 33
Picos de Europa, 8th edition (2022); updated 16/08/22
Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in the Picos de Europa given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.
Walks 7 and 8; also Detour 3 on the car tour in 2022:In 2022, the Picos de Europa National Park has, for the first time, restricted access by private vehicle to Poncebos, the starting point for Walks 7 (Ruta del Cares) and 8 (Bulnes), as well as to the more remote villages of Tielve and Sotres (car-tour Detour 3, Walk 9 (Picos de Macondíu), and Short walk 4 (Vegas de Sotres). During Easter week and high Summer (1 June to 16 October 2022), you must park in Arenas de Cabrales and take the bus to your required destination. Buses leave Arenas once an hour, from 08.00 to 19.00, and take 30 minutes to Poncebos, 40 minutes to Tielve and 50 minutes to Sotres. The return route – again hourly – starts at Sotres, running between 09.00 and 20.00. The location of the car parks and bus stop in Arenas, plus bus prices and timetables, are clearly shown on https://parquenacionalpicoseuropa.es/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/plan_transporte_cares-2022_web.pdf, which unfortunately is only available in Spanish at the time of writing. Return bus fare from Arenas to Poncebos is 3 euros (1,55 € one way), and from Arenas to Sotres is 5 euros (2,60 € one way). Prior booking is recommended, on www.alsa.es.
Walk 8: prices for the Bulnes funicular railway as of April 2022:
ONE WAY
Adults: 17,61 euros
Children: 4,32 euros
RETURN
Adults: 22,16 euros
Children: 6,71 euros
The schedules remain as per the information given at the start of Walk 8.
NB You can buy tickets at either end of the funicular or on www.alsa.es
Taxi numbers:
Potes: +34-659662771 (José speaks English)
Panes: +34-659056489 (or 985414023)
Arenas: +34-636360273, +34-985346487, +34-625201900, +34-616961202
Click here to download a zip file of GPS tracks for Picos de Europa.
iPhone users need a free or paid app to open the zip file and see the files stored inside it. There are a variety of apps that can open zip files on the iPhone, but Zip Viewer is one of the easiest to use – and it is free.
