Walking in Western Crete

Hania gives good access by public transport to a wide range of walks. Otherwise Rethimnon could be a suitable base as it, too, has good transport links. Obviously your own wheels give you the opportunity to explore more of Crete by car.

8 car tours, 45 long and short walks, many picnic suggestions
136 pages + two touring maps covering both western Crete and eastern Crete; plans of Hania and Rethimnon; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
9th ed, 2017; ISBN 978185691-490-1
UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $18.00

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Background reading 6

Getting about 7
Plans of Hania and Rethimnon 8-9

Picnicking 10
Picnic suggestions 11

A country code for walkers and motorists 13
Touring 14
Some points worth noting 15

1 THE FAR WEST 16
Hania • (Kastelli-Kissamos) • (Polirinia) • Vathi • Moni • Chrisoskalitisas • (Elafonisi) • Elos • Topolia • Hania

2 PALEOHORA AND SOUTH COAST BEACHES 20
Hania • Tavronitis • Voukolies • Kandanos • Paleohora • Kandanos • (Sougia) • Hania

3 COUNTRYSIDE, COASTAL BACKWATER AND HIGH CRETAN PASTURELAND 22
Hania • Nea Roumata • Agia Irini • Epanohori • Sougia • Omalos • Lakki • Fournes • Hania

4 THE AKROTIRI PENINSULA 25
Hania • Kounoupidiana • Stavros • Agia Triada • Moni Gouverneto • (Souda Bay Cemetery) • Hania

5 THE FOOTHILLS OF THE LEVKA ORI 27
Hania • Aptera • Katohori • Kambi • Mournies • Hania

6 A SLICE OF CRETE 28
Hania • Vrises • Askyfou • Hora Sfakion • Frangokastello • Selia • Asomatos • Moni Preveli • Rethimnon • Episkopi • Georgioupoli • Hania

7 CRETAN TREASURES 33
Hania • (Rethimnon) • Armeni • Spili • Agia Galini • Festos • Agia Triada • Hania

8 THE AMARI VALLEY 35
Hania • Rethimnon • Apostoli • Thronos • Fourfouras • Agios Ioannis • Gerakari • Rethimnon • Hania

Walking (see explanation of symbols on page 38) 37
Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 38
Things that bite or sting 39
What to take 40
Weather 41
Where to stay 41
Walkers’ checklist 41
Greek for walkers 42
Organisation of the walks 44

THE WALKS
1 Circuit via Agia 45
2 Kotsifou Gorge 48
The Diktamos Gorge: from Katohori to Stilos or Nio Horio) 50
4 Kambi • Volika refuge • Kambi 52
5 Georgioupoli circuit 56
6 Lake Kournas circuit 59
7 The Prassanos Gorge 62
8 Rethimnon • Chromonastiri • Myli 66
9 Myli Gorge 69
10 Gouverneto and Katholikou 71
11 Rodopos • Agios Ioannis Gionis • Rodopos 72
12 A circuit from Kolimbari via Moni Gonia 76
13 From Sirikari to Polirinia 78
14 Katsomatados • Mouri • Voulgaro 80
15 Sasalos • Katsomatados • Topolia 84
16 The Agia Irini Gorge 86
17 Sougia • Lisos • Paleohora 88
18 From Paleohora (Krios Beach) to Elafonisi 90
19 Xiloskala • Linoseli Col • Gingilos • Xiloskala 92
20 A high mountain circuit from Kallergi 95
21 The Samaria Gorge 99
22 From Agia Roumeli to Loutro 102
23 Loutro and the Aradhena Gorge 104
24 From Loutro to Hora Sfakion 111
25 The Imbros Gorge • Komitades • Hora Sfakion 112
26 Kares (Askyfou) • Asfendos • Agios Nektarios 115
27 Circuit via Moni Preveli 118
28 Ano Meros • Tripiti • Ano Meros 122
29 Circuit from Mixorouma via Frati 125
30 The Kamares Cave 128
31 Eleftherna 130

Bus timetables 133
Index (of geographical names) 135
Fold-out touring maps inside back cover of Western and Eastern Crete

Ágios Pávlos (chapel on the Rodopoú Peninsula) 73, 74, 75
Akrotíri Peninsula (Ak-ro-tir-ry) 25, 42, 71
Amári Valley (Ah-ma-ree) 12, 13, 34, 36
Ano Méros (A-no Meh-ross) 36, 122, 123, 124
Anópolis (A-no-poh-lee) 31, 105, 106-7, 109
Apóstoli (A-pos-toh-lee) 35
Aptéra (Ap-teh-ra; site) 27, 33
Arádhena (A-ra-day-na) 106-7, 108, 109, 110
Gorge 94, 104, 106-7, 108, 110
Argirimoúri (Ar-gee-ree-moo-ree) 57, 58
Arméni (Ar-meh-nee) 31, 33
Asféndos (Ahs-fen-doss) 112-3, 115, 116
Ask´yfou (Ahs-kee-foo) 28, 29, 115, 166
Asómatos (Ah-so-ma-toss) 12, 28, 30, 119, 121, 134
Astrátigos (As-tra-tee-goss) 76, 77

Chromonastíri (Kro-mo-nas-tir-ry) 66, 68, 69

Díktamos Gorge (Deek-ta-moss) 11, 50-1, 51

Elafonísi (Ella-fo-nee-see) 4, 16, 18-9, 90-1, 134
Eléftherna (El-eff-there-na) 12, 130, 131, 132, 134
Elos (Ell-oss) 16, 19
Epanohóri (Eh-pa-no-ho-ree) 22, 23, 86, 87
Epískopi (Eh-pis-ko-pee) 28, 32
Exópolis (Ex-oh-po-lee) 56, 58

Falasárna (Fah-la-sar-na) 18
Féstos (Fay-stoss; site) 33, 34
Fourfourás (For-for-ahs) 35
Fournés (For-nes) 22, 24, 47
Frangokástello (Fran-go-kass-tel-lo; site) 28, 29, 30
Fráti (Fra-tee) 125, 126, 127

Georgioúpoli (Yeor-you-po-lee) 11, 28, 32, 56, 57, 58, 59, 61
Gerakári (Yer-ra-ka-ree) 36, 122
Gíngilos (Gyn-gee-loss; mountain) 92, 93, 93, 94, 98
Gramvoúsa Peninsula (Gram-voo-sa) 17
Haniá (Han-ya) 16, 20-1, 22, 25, 27-8, 33, 35, 133-4,
town plan 8
Hóra Sfakíon (Ho-ra Sfa-kee-on) 28, 29, 31, 33, 101, 104, 106-7, 111, 112, 113, 114, 116, 113-4

Ida (Eye-da; mountain — and range of mountains; also called Psilorítis) 4, 34, 36, 125, 128-9
Imbros (Eem-bross) 12, 29, 112, 113, 115
Gorge 29, 112, 113
Iráklion (Ee-rak-lee-on) 133-4

Kallérgi (Kal-lair-gee; refuge in the White Mountains) 96-7, 98
Kaloudianá (Ka-loo-dee-a-na) 19
Kamáres (Ka-ma-race) 128, 129, 134
Cave 128, 129, 129
Kámbi (Kam-bee) 11, 27, 52, 55, 56
Kándanos (Kan-da-noss) 20-1
Karés (Kar-ress) 28, 112-3, 115
Kastélli-Kíssamos (usually just referred to as Kass-tel-ly or Kiss-a-mohs) 16, 18, 133-4
Katohóri (Ka-toe-ho-ree) 11, 27, 50-1, 51, 55
Káto Stalós (Ka-to Sta-loss) 16, 44, 45, 46, 47, 134
Katsomatádos (Kat-so-ma-ta-doss) 12, 19, 80, 82, 83, 85
Kédros (Keh-dross; mountain) 34, 36, 121
Kolimbári (Ko-lim-ba-ree) 16, 77, 77, 133
Komitádes (Ko-mee-ta-dess) 29, 112, 113, 115
Kotsífou (Kot-see-foo) Gorge 32, 48, 149
Kounoupidianá (Koo-noo-pee-dee-ah-na) 25-6
Kournás (Kor-nass) 32, 60
Lake 11, 32, 59, 60-1
Kourtaliótiko Gorge (Koor-ta-lee-o-tee-ko) 13, 28, 30, 119, 125-7
Kríos Beach (Kree-oss) 90, 90-1

Lákki (Lak-kee) 22, 24
Levká Ori (Lev-ka O-ree; ‘White Mountains’) 1, 11, 21-2, 27-8, 50, 56, 108, 112
Likotinará (Lik-o-tee-na-ra) 57, 58
Linoséli (Lee-no-say-lee; col below Gíngilos) 92, 93, 94
Lisós (Lee-soss; site) 88-9; 89
Livanianá (Li-va-nee-a-na) 94, 104, 106-7, 108
Loutró (Loo-tro) 94, 102-103, 104, 105, 106-7, 109-10, 111
L´ykkos (Lee-kos) 102-3, 107

Máleme (Ma-leh-meh) 16, 134
Marioú (Ma-ree-oo) 30
Mathés 59, 60, 61
Mávri (Ma-vree; mountain) 95, 96-7
Megalopótamos (river) 120, 119, 126, 127
Melindaoú (Me-lin-dow-oo; mountain) 95, 96-7
Mesara Plain 34, 124
Missíria (Mi-see-ree-a) 64-5
Mírthios (Meer-tee-oss) 30, 35, 49
Mixórouma 34, 125, 126, 127
Moní (Mo-nee; monastery or chapel)
Chrisoskalítisas (Hri-so-ska-lee-tee-sass) 16, 18, 19, 134
Goniá (Gon-yah) 17, 77, 77
Moní (continued)
Gouvernéto (Goo-ver-neh-toh) 12, 25, 71
Katholikoú (Ka-tho-lee-koo) 26, 42, 71
Préveli (Pray-veh-lee) 28, 30, 118, 119, 134
Mourí (Moo-ree) 80, 82-3
Mourné 125, 126
Mourniés (Moor-nee-ess) 27
M´yli (Mee-lee) 64-5, 68, 70
Gorge 11, 68, 69, 70

Néa Roúmata (Nay-a Roo-ma-ta) 23
Nío Horió (Nee-o Hor-yo) 50-1

Omalós Plain (O-ma-loss) 22, 24, 99, 101, 133-4

Paleohóra (Pa-lay-o-ho-ra) 21, 88-9, 90-1, 133
Palm (Preveli) Beach 119, 119, 120
Perivólia (Pe-ree-vo-lee-a) 69, 70
Plákias (Plah-key-ahs) 30-1, 32, 48, 49, 134
Plataniás (Pla-tan-yas) 16, 47, 134
Plátys River (Plah-tiss) 12, 36
Polirínia (Polly-reen-ya) 10, 11, 16-17, 78, 79
Prasés (Prah-sess) 23
Prasiés (Pra-zie-ess) 35, 62, 64, 65
Prassanós Gorge (Pras-sa-noss) 35, 63, 64, 65
Profítis Ilías (Pro-fee-tiss Ill-ee-ass; chapel above Rethimnon) 11, 66, 69
Psilorítis (Psi-lo-ree-tiss) see Ida

Réthimnon (Reth-eem-non) 11, 28, 31, 33, 35-6, 66-7, 69, 133-4
town plan 9
Rodopós (Ro-tho-poss) 72, 74, 75, 76
Rodopoú Peninsula (Ro-tho-poo) 17, 72, 74, 75, 76

Samariá Gorge (Sa-ma-ree-a) 22-3, 24, 98, 100, 101, 101, 104, cover
Sásalos (Sass-a-loss) 81, 82, 84, 85
Seliá (Sel-yah)
near Mírthios 28, 30
near Georgioúpoli 57, 58
Sfinári (Sfee-na-ree) 16, 18
Sirikári (Sirry-ka-ree) 78, 79
Soúda (Soo-da) 25-7
Soúgia (Soo-yah) 12, 20, 23, 86, 87, 88-9, 89, 133
Spíli (Spee-lee) 33
Stalós (Sta-loss) 2, 26, 44, 47
Stavrós (Sta-vross) 26
Stílos (Stee-loss) 50-1

Tavronítis (Tav-ro-nee-tis) 16, 20
Thrónos (Thro-noss) 35
Topólia (Toh-poll-yah) 12, 16, 19, 82, 84-5, 85, 85
Gorge 19, 80, 82, 84-5, 85, 85
Trípiti (Tree-pi-tee; peak) 122, 123, 124

Váthi (Va-thee) 16, 18
Vólika Refuge (Vo-lee-ka) 52, 53, 54, 55
Voukoliés (Voo-ko-lee-ess) 20
Voulgáro (Vool-ga-ro) 19, 80, 82, 83
Vríses (Vree-ses)
near Haniá 28, 33
near Ano Meros 36
Vríssinas (Vree-see-nas; mountain) 67, 69

White Mountains see Levka Ori

Xilóskala (Ksee-lo-ska-la; staircase with wooden railings leading to Samariá Gorge) 22-3, 24, 92, 93, 94-5, 96-7, 99-100, 101

Western Crete, 9th edition (2017); updated 20/5/2022

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in Western Crete given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

Buses: KTEL are operating a much reduced timetable since the start of the pandemic. So the timetables in the book are no longer accurate. We may not even change them in the next edition, which we are preparing now, in the expectation that they will come back to the frequency in the book. We urge you, if you are taking the buses, to go to the nearest station to your base and get up-date-information. [Sunflower]

Walk 2: We this yesterday with the latest edition. The GPX downloads are a great help partnered with the ViewRanger app. We found a problem at waypoint 3, where the path recommended to the stepping stones is impenetrable. By continuing further on the same bank (as others seem to have done) about 100m, just before a stock control fence, it is possible to descend to the stream and cross over some stepping stones, and regain the path to the bridge. (User, 5/19)[Sunflower: paths like this one change from year to year.]

Walk 5: Between points 5 and 6 the way is pretty well impassable. It is well marked with blue dots but appears to be little used. In the end we had to abandon the path and fight our way to the road. From there we used the road to Exopolis and hence to Georgiouploli. Shame as the walk up to there is great. (User, 5/18) + Page 57: from no. 2 on the map, the path which winds uphill going north/north-east and indicated by blue (mainly blue at the moment) or red paint marks on the rocks is extremely difficult to negotiate owing to shoulder/head-height thorn bushes along the way, especially the second half. We had to bend double in several places to try to avoid being scratched. Also page 57: from waypoint 5 on the map, the section beginning ‘Do no follow it, instead, …, take the blue waymarked path downhill to the right ‘ etc. We had to abandon this section and retrace our steps as it was just too overgrown. (User, 6/18) [Sunflower, 2022: Yes, the uphill path to Likotinara and the downhill path to Exopolis can be very scratchy in spring! Do wear long sleeves and long trousers. Take the road to Exopolis if it’s too much – there is virtually no traffic.]

Walk 7: The Happy Walkers no longer do the Prassanos Gorge so they cannot advise about the levels of the water or the weather. (Sunflower)

Walk 8 (and picnic 8): The church of Profits Ilias at the start of the walk is totally fenced off now and inaccessible, so just walk up the road and take the first left turn – heading steeply up the asphalted single-land road into the pines. There is good picnicking there or – even easier – in the pines at the left just as you have passed under the national highway. Later in the walk, do not miss two museums at Chronomastiri: the Military Museum (on the main road) and Prinari’s Mill (olives, olive oil, rural households) in the centre. (Sunflower, 6/17) + After number 4 it is a bit confusing, the book talks about descending but the road climbs first, the road sign to Kapadiana is rather ambigious, best say remain on the road after the left turn. The picnic area at 5 is overgrown and unused. After point 8 the track resembles a stream bed rather than a path, and is very overgrown. We managed to get lost in Chromonostiri (along with every other walker we met!); a clearer description would help as it´s very easy to end up on the wrong road. (User, 5/18) [Sunflower: Waypoint 5 is at the wrong place on the map, sorry! You want the lowest point on the road — a bit further east. Chromonastiri is a maze. If you want to not get lost, stick to the main roads around the village. But we rather enjoyed ‘getting lost’ – it’s a charming place.]

Walk 9: The walk is easy to follow as it´s a gorge. The first wooden bridge has fallen down but it´s possible to clamber over the remains. After the “Banana Bar” there is a signpost to Rethimnon, which we took as this bar is not mentioned. The way is easy to follow but I don´t think it´s the way in the book. We ended up going down the main road. (User, 5/18) [Sunflower: The Banana Bar is new. It is located at the top of the ‘white road’ west of Xirohorio. There were many comments on this update in 2019 when bad storms were experienced in this area. As of April 2022, everything was in order and there was no sign of storm damage.]

Walks 8 and 9 combined: We did 8 and 9 as a circular walk, starting and ending in the old city of Rethimnon. This was 21K and took us 6-3/4 hours and avoided the inconvenience of fitting in buses etc. we are both 74 so any of your younger readers should manage! (User, 5/19)

Walk 10: To start the walk, enter the monastery gardens (very attractive and full of birds) at the gate by the car park (open 9am till 9pm), and walk straight through, past the monastery and out through a gate just before the war memorial… Wonderful walk, as always. We (middle aged couple and teenage son) took just 35 mins coming back up from the beach. 1 hour would be pretty comfortable. (User, 4/19) • The way to the beach is under the arch of the bridge at Katholikou – well waymarked. (Sunflower, 5/22) 

Walk 12: Just before 3 the book mentions the back of a roadsign on the right. In fact the sign is on the left. After 4 (1:45 minutes) you mention a left turn to ignore. In fact there is a right turn shortly before this, where it is unclear which is the main path and so could be confused with the left turn. Took us 20 minutes of head scratching to sort that one out! The left turn now has a gate on it. (User, 5/18) • The ‘road sign’ referred to is the sign denoting the exit from the village. The track to take is 20 metres further on, on the left. (Sunflower)

Walks 14 and 15: At waypoint 1, ignore the hand written sign for Sasalos; it goes nowhere! And if you are allergic to bee stings, it would be a good idea to take the higher (good) track  the first left fork referred to before the 15min-point, since there are beehives (fenced off) some metres above the route we use. (Sunflower, 5/22) Here are some comments that we checked out this April, causing the warning above: “Our first walk was intended to be a cross between nos.14 & 15 – Katsomatados to Sasalos. [Sunflower: in fact, this is Walk 15 in reverse; this user started from Katsomatados, as Walk 14.] The beginning of the description is fine but at waypoint 1 comes the challenge! There is now a sign that suggests Sasalos is straight on (which we  tried and it was a tortuous climb through trees, goat tracks and spiky bushes to reach the ridge. The suggested sharp left turn in the book first passes about 100 beehives and then the path has been obliterated higher up by a landslide. I believe there is a longer track from Katsomatados which is visible on your map – this would be a preferable route. (User 10/19) [Sunflower: In fact the alternative track is only about 400m longer and is good. It is the ‘left fork’ crossing the streambed just before the 15min-point in Walk 14. It would pass the chapel of Ag. Dimitrios (not shown on the map, but on the right, just before the ‘400’ marking the contour). You would rejoin the main route at waypoint 2. If you are doing Walk 15, after waypoint 3, do take the middle track. But then, ‘a few minutes later, at another fork’, do not ‘head left on the track that goes down towards the bottom of the valley’. Instead, go right to take this alternative route and avoid the landslide and the beehives. If you are using our GPS tracks, we have included this route in the download.]

Walk 15: The road through Topolia is busy at times and also has frequent buses and large lorries. We deemed this to be too unpleasant and unsafe. The tunnel is narrow and controlled by lights and we felt any encounter with the larger vehicles would be frightening. There is a good path along the bottom of the gorge (shown on the map) which we took. At the end of the gorge section there is a sign to “The Old Bridge” which is worth a look. There is another sign to the bridge a little further up which takes you to the top of the bridge. Any ascent or descent in the area of the bridge involves a scramble. The path up to Topolia goes through a goat enclosure and then up on tracks to pass the church. Cafenions and tavernas are to the right when you reach the main road. There are signs in Topolia inviting you to explore its old narrow streets above the main road. We did not have time to do this. During our hour or so in Topolia we saw no taxi so don’t rely on finding one. (User, 10/17) • The walk in the gorge this reader refers to is gated off and inaccessible. (Sunflower, 5/22)

Walk 19: This route was pretty straightforward except the suggestion of a 5 min walk from waypoint 6 to the ‘marginally higher’ summit. This is not a 5 minute walk by any stretch. It’s more likely a 20 minute scramble up some very inhospitable rocks! (User, 10/19)[Sunflower: yes, allow 25 minutes!]

Walk 22: We found the scramble down just before Finix hard to spot, and it looks like the way goes over the top which ends up in a dangerous situation. Better waymarking would help here. (User, 5/18)

Walk 23 (and Shorter walk 23): On page 104 (Shorter walk) and 106 (main walk) the book refers to a CHURCH WITH TWO PALM TREES near Fenix beach. The church on the map near Fenix has a Norfolk pine and another tree and not two palm trees. The church with two palm trees is on the headland south of Loutro, not near Fenix… This book was on the whole excellent for me walking the E4, as the maps are superior to the Topo50 Trekking Maps. (User, 5/17)

Walk 29: An example of how things can go wrong… A user (May 2017) wrote the following: ‘Not only was the route described wrong, but we weren’t even able to improvise and get back on track. Page 126 reads: “At the highest point on this road, you reach a crossroads with a sign … ‘To Coast’. Ignore this and continue on.” In fact at this point you are unable to continue at all, as a very solid property gate and high fence prevent crossing the road at any point in either direction for hundreds of metres in either direction. There is even a “Keep out” sign in English. The only options are left or right on the metalled road.’ The user went on to say he tried all ways around the obstruction – a vineyard – but had to give up and retrace steps. (Sunflower, 5/17) + I suspect that your correspondent may be wrong. I recently drove up and down the “to the coast” road between Drimiskos and Mourne several times and did not notice a gate, or vineyard, at the point noted. (User, 6/17) • I’ve just walked (today) Walk 29. I found no problems with the directions/description at point 3. I think your previous correspondent had not reached point 3, they were actually just before that…. ‘turn right on the asphalt road (55 mins)’. At this point across the road are the features they describe; the gate, the ‘beach’ sign and the vines. So I found no issue with the walking notes. However future travellers of this walk should be aware that there is no taverna in Frati and the cafeneion was closed at 1.30pm on a Thursday. So you need to carry provisions/water for the whole walk. (User, 9/17)

Walk suggestion: Palea Roumata is a pleasant village with a busy taverna, a very large church and a little park which sets off a group of olive trees which are reputed to be 3000 years old. The drive down to the village offers spectacular views. There is a short gorge walk from near the olive trees. As you return from the olive trees towards the village centre take the first opening on your right which goes through what appears to be a private courtyard (it is not). You will know you are on the right path when you come to an old well on your left with a roof and a seat nearby (in about 50m). Just follow this path which leads to the (dry in summer) river and keep left to follow the stream bed up. You are soon amongst plane trees and occasionally have to cross the river bed but never leave it. Eventually the gorge forks and make sure you take the left hand branch. There are picnic areas and soon after a large one on the right the path leads up to your right and out of the gorge. It leads to the hamlet of Vavouledo where there is a small taverna where you may get a drink and perhaps a very modest snack courtesy of the host. You may get a meal at weekends. Since this is a short walk this does not matter as the walk back to Palea Roumata along the road is short and comes out at the taverna. Total distance about 5km. (User, 10/17)

GPS files for use with Landscapes of Western Crete:

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