Walking the Italian Lakes
£15.00
75 long and short walks and 5 car tours
by David Robertson & Sarah Stewart
A guidebook to walking the Italian Lakes, featuring 75 of the best long and short day walks. We cover Maggiore, Lugano, Como and Garda, plus some of the lesser-known lakes such as Orta, showing trekking routes of varying difficulty, all of which are mapped in detail.
Many of the hikes are circular, taking you to the best vantage points around these lakes, bounded by high mountains to the north and the Lombardy Plain in the south.
This guide also includes five car tours, two touring maps and free downloadable GPS tracks.
When to go: The best months for walking the Italian Lakes are April, May, June and September.
★★★★★ amazon review ‘We always use Sunflower Guides as a basis for determining where we need to locate ourselves in order to do some walking. We used the walks around Lake Garda. Walk 25 needed no public transport as we were based in Riva del Garda. We decided to use the bus rather than the ferry for Walk 28 as it got us to Malcesine earlier; we even took a packed breakfast with us as we wanted to be in the queue for the cable car as early as possible! For Walk 30 we went by ferry and returned by bus. It was good that these walks could be accessed by public transport. The walks we did were easy to follow using the Sunflower book. The Transport Information is very useful.‘ Jenny Garner
Printed book: £17.99 / PDF ebook: £15.00
This new 4th edition of our guidebook to walking the Italian Lakes has been carefully revised just a few months prior to publication.
The topo maps show waypoints, and free downloadable GPS tracks are available for all the hikes. Colour coding on the Contents page enables you to see at a glance the grading of various treks.
These great expanses of water, bound to the north by high mountains and stretching down towards the Lombardy Plain, all resulted from glacial activity.
While this guide focuses primarily on walking the Italian Lakes, you can gain huge satisfaction from touring the Italian Lakes by car as well.
Whether on foot or by car, you will discover timeless hill villages, ancient mule tracks and panoramic mountain viewpoints.
There are numerous places throughout the region to choose from, though most people booking a package holiday will be staying at a resort decided by the tour operator.
For example, visitors to Lake Garda will possibly be staying at Riva del Garda, Limone, Sirmione or one of the many other villages that border the lake.
For each walk in the book the authors indicate the location of the nearest accommodation.
While public transport (buses, trains, lake steamers, cable cars etc.) is detailed for each walk where available, do note that there are a number of walks in this book which are only accessible by car.
5 car tours, 75 long and short walks
136 pages + 2 touring maps; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
4th ed, 2024; ISBN 978-1-85691-564-9; UK retail price £17.99 / USA retail price $23.00
Table of contents:
Preface 5
Acknowledgements 6
Getting there and getting about 7
Picnicking 8
Picnic suggestions 8
TOURING 11
Car tour 1: ON THE EDGE OF VAL GRANDE 12
Car tour 2: MOTTARONE – THE MOUNTAIN OF TWO LAKES 14
Car tour 3: BORDER HOPPING AROUND LAKE LUGANO 17
Car tour 4: VALSASSINA AND THE TRIANGOLO LARIANO 19
Car tour 5: A TOUR OF FOUR LAKES 22
WALKING
Grades, waymarking, maps, GPS 25
The Italian Alpine Club (CAI) 26
Equipment and Safety 26
Weather 27
Where to stay 27
Nuisances 28
Organisation of the walks 28
Country code 29
Recommended reading; Useful contacts 29
Italian for walkers, with short glossary 30
THE WALKS
Lake Maggiore
1 From Cheglio to Cannobio via Monte Pian Bello 32
2 From Cannero Riviera to Cannobio 35
3 Valle Cannobina circuit from Falmenta 38
4 Monte Spalavera 42
5 Pizzo Pernice circuit with extension to I Balmitt (and Il Pizzo) 44
6 From Biegno to Maccagno 46
7 Circuit from Curiglia 49
8 From Mottarone station to Carciano di Stresa 52
9 From Belgirate to Stresa 56
Lake Orta
10 Circuit from Agrano via Alpe Selviana 58
11 Circuit above Lake Orta 61
Lake Lugano and western Lake Como
12 Three walks by the Parco Val Sanagra 63
13 Monte Grona (and Monte Bregagno) 68
14 Monte Generoso 71
15 Circuit from Alpe di Lenno 74
16 From Pigra to Ossuccio 76
17 San Martino and Il Dossone 79
Lake Como
18 Alpe di Mezzo and Monte Berlinghera 82
19 Sentiero del Viandante 85
20 Grigna Settentrionale 87
21 Cappella and Chiesa San Martino 90
22 Piani d’Erna 92
23 In the Triangulo Lariano 94
24 Parco Monte San Primo 96
Lake Garda
25 Around Monte Brione 98
26 From to Colodri and Monte Colt 101
27 Monte Stivo circuit 104
28 Cima delle Pozzette (Monte Baldo) 106
29 Madonna dell’Accoglienza circuit 109
30 Dalco circuit from Limone sul Garda 112
31 Monte Bestone 115
32 Passo Nota circuit from Vesio 117
33 Monte Cas 119
34 Monte Castello di Gaino 121
35 Monte Caplone 123
36 Moerna circuit via Bocca Cocca 125
37 Rocchetta Giochello circuit 128
38 Nodice circuit from Biacesa 131
Index 134
Fold-out touring maps inside back cover
Transport information inside back cover
Agrano 9, 14-15, 58-60
Alpe Cortetti 49, 51
Alpe del Borgo 96-97
Alpe di Lenno 9, 74-75
Alpe di Mezzegra 74-75
Alpe di Mezzo 82-83, 84
Alpe Gigiai 82-83, 84
Alpe Pescedo 82-83, 84
Alpe Pescio 71, 73
Alpe Selviana 9, 58-60
Alpe Zocca 82-83, 84
Alpino 14-5, 52-53, 54
Alveo Lago Bondo 24, 116-118
Arco 26, 99-101, 103-104, 110, 129
Argegno 17-18, 76
Armeno 14-16, 58, 60
Arogno 17-18
Asso 19, 21
Aurano 12-13
Ballabio 19-20
Barco dei Montoni 71, 73
Baveno 14, 16
Belgirate 56-57
Bellagio 10, 17, 19-20, 21, 77-78, 80, 85-87, 90, 92, 94, 96-97
Bellano 1, 6, 85-86, 87, 90
Bezzecca 22, 24
Biacesa 22, 24, 128-129, 130, 132-133
Biegno 46, 49-50
Bocca di Caplone 122-124, 127
Bocca Cocca 125-126
Bocca di Valle 125, 127
Blevio 63
Bobbio, Piani di 20
Bocchetta dei Guzzi 87-88
Bocchetta di Nava 79-80
Borromean Islands 5, 14, 54-55
Breglia 67, 68-70
Brisino 56-57
Cadenabbia 18, 21, 79
Calogna 56-57
Cambiasca 12, 44
Canelva 76-77, 78
Cangili 46-47, 49
Cannero Riviera 12-13, 32, 35, 37-38, 46, 49
Cannobio 8, 12-14, 32-35, 37-38, 46, 49
Canzo 9, 19, 21
Capolago 17, 71, 73
Capovalle 22-23
Cappella Fina 44-45
Cappella San Martino 90-91, 91
Cappella Votiva 9, 87, 88
Carciano 3, 52-55
Carciano di Stresa 52-54, 55
Carmine Inferiore 8, 12, 35, 37
Carmine Superiore 3, 8, 35, 36- 37
Castello del Castil 104-105
Cheggio 35-36
Cheglio 32, 34
Chiesa San Martino 90-91
Chiodera 66-67
Cima delle Pozzette 106-107
Cima Forcola 33-34
Cima l’Alpe 34, 42
Cima Rest 122-124
Cima Tondone 32-34
Codogna 63, 64-66, 67, 80
Colma 10, 19, 21, 61-62, 94-95, 95
Colodri 101-102
Corniga 76-77
Cortenova 19
Costa 92-93
Croce 17, 67, 79, 81
Croce di Colt 101, 103
Croce Pizzo d’Erna 9, 92
Curiglia 49-51
Cursolo 38-40, 41
Dalco 112-113, 114, 116
Dega 112-113, 114, 116
Dumez 109, 111
Egro 61-62
Esino Lario 19, 87
Esino Valley 19
Falmenta 38-39, 41
Forcoletta 46-47, 49
Fordeccia 82-83, 84
Forte Garda 98, 99
Forte San Alessandro 98-99
Funivia d’Erna 92
Gargnano 22, 119, 121-123, 125
Ghiffa 12
Giardino Alpinia 52, 55
Gignese 14, 16, 58
Gottro 63, 65-66
Gozzano 14, 16
Grandola Ed Uniti 66
Grassona 61-62
Gravona 76-77, 78
Griante 17-18, 79-80
Grigna 9, 19-20, 80, 87, 95, 97
Meridionale 87, 89, 92
Settentrionale 87-88, 88-89
Grotta 98, 100
Gurro 38, 39, 40-41
I Balmitt 44-45
Il Colle 34, 42-43
Il Dossone 79-80
Il Rogolone 63-66
Intelvi Valley 17-18
Intra 12-13, 42
Introbio 19-20
Isola Bella 53-54
Isola Madre 54-55, 57
Isola Pescatori 53-54
Isola San Giulio 9, 14-15, 61
La Forcola 46-47
Laghel 101-103
Lago/Lake
Annone 20, 91
Como 1, 2, 5, 7, 17-20, 25, 27, 43, 67, 69-70, 72, 74-77, 77-79, 81, 83, 85-87, 90-91, 94-97
Elio 46-48
Garda 2, 5-7, 10, 22-27, 98, 98-99, 102, 107, 109-110, 113-114, 115-116, 119-120, 122, 124, 131-132, 133
Garlate 91
Idro 10, 23, 125, 127
Ledro 10, 22, 24
Lugano 5, 9, 17-18, 25, 27, 43, 63, 64-65, 69, 71-72, 75
Maggiore 5, 7-8, 12-15, 25-27, 32-33, 35, 36-37, 42, 44, 47, 50, 53-57, 61, 72, 75
Orta 9, 14-16, 25-26, 52, 58, 60-62
Piano 17, 63, 64-65, 66, 75
Segrino 9, 21
Lanzo d’Intelvi 17-18
Laorca 19-20, 90-91
Le Prese 104-105, 105
Lecco 7, 9, 19-21, 85, 90-92, 96-97
Lemprato 10, 22-23
Lenno 18, 21, 74, 76-77, 77
Levo 14, 52-53, 53, 55
Limone sul Garda 22, 106, 109, 112-115, 117-119, 121, 123, 125
Lombardy Plain 5, 97
Loveno 63, 67
Lugano 17, 71
Luino 8, 43, 49
Maccagno 37, 46-48, 49
Madonna dell’ Accoglienza 109, 111
Madonna del Sasso 14, 16, 62
Madri 65-66, 67
Magognino 56-57
Malcesine 10, 106-107, 108-109, 110-111, 129
Malga Tombea 122-124
Menaggio 17-19, 21, 63, 65-71, 74, 76, 79, 81-82, 85, 87
Mergugna 38-39, 41
Moerna 10, 22-23, 125-127
Molina di Ledro 22, 24
Montalto 82, 83, 84
Monte Baldo 10, 106-107, 109, 116, 122, 124, 129, 133
Cable car station 106-108
San Michele station 108, 109, 111
Monte Berlinghera 82-83, 83-84
Monte Bestone 10, 113-115, 116
Monte Bregagno 68-70
Monte Brione 10, 98, 98-100, 129, 133
Monte Calbiga 9, 74-75
Monte Caplone 122-124, 126-127
Monte Carza 32-33, 35, 43
Monte Castello 10, 22, 119-120, cover
Monte Castello di Gaino 22-23, 121-122
Monte Colt 101, 102-103
Monte Crabbia 58, 60
Monte Croce 94-95
Monte Crocione 2, 74-75, 79-80
Monte di Tremezzo 74-75, 82, 85, 97
Monte Falo 10, 94-95
Monte Generoso 5, 9, 17-18, 43, 71-72, 73, 75, 97
Stazione Bella Vista 71, 73
Stazione Generoso Vetta 9, 71, 73
Monte Grande 10, 106, 109
Monte Grona 65-66, 68-70, 75, 82
Monte Palanzone 94-95, 97
Monte Pian Bello 32-34
Monte Resegone 9, 90, 92-93
Monte San Primo 21, 94-95, 96-97, 97
Monte Sirti 46-48
Monte Spalavera 34, 42-43, 45
Monte Stivo 104-105, 105, 116, 129, 133
Monte Todun I-45
Monte di Tremezzo 5, 74-75, 82, 85, 97
Montereccio 46-47, 49
Monteviasco 46, 49-51
Monti i Prati 76-77
Mottarone 9, 14-16, 42, 52-53, 61, 72
Mulinesc 35, 37
Musignano 46, 48
Naggio 63, 65-66, 67, 80
Navazzo 22-23, 121-122
Nesso 19, 21
Nodice 128-129, 131, 131, 132, 133
Orasso 38, 39-40
Oratorio del Sasso 40
Orrido di Santa Anna 32, 34
Orta San Giulio 9, 14-16, 58, 61
Ospedaletto 7, 18, 42-43
Ossuccio 17-18, 30, 74, 76-78
Paier 108-109, 111
Palestra di Roccia 9, 52
Pallanza 12, 55
Parco Monte San Primo 96-97
Parlasco 19
Passo Nota 116-118
Pella 9, 14, 16, 60-62
Persone 10, 22-23, 125, 127
Pescone 15, 58-60
Pettenasco 14-15, 58, 60
Pian Cavallone 44-45
Piancavallo 8, 12-13, 42
Piani d’Erna 9, 92-93
Pianoni 32-34
Pianure 63, 66-67
Pieve di Ledro 10, 22-24
Pieve Vecchia 22-23
Pigra 74, 76
Pilaster 122, 123-124
Pizzo Pernice 44-45
Ponte Caffero 22-24
Ponte di Piero 49-50
Ponte Spoccia 38-39
Ponte Teia 38-39, 41
Porlezza 17
Porta Prada 9, 87-88, 89
Porto San Nicolo 10, 98-100
Pratolungo 58, 60
Pregasina 10, 24, 131-132, 133
Premeno 8, 12-13, 42
Punta di Crabbia 15
Pusiano 19, 21
Rifugio Arnaldo Bogani 88-89
Rifugio Luigi Bietti 88
Rifugio Luigi Brioschi 87-88, 88-89
Rifugio Martina 96-97
Rifugio Menaggio 66, 68-70, 70
Rifugio Monte Stivo 104-105
Rifugio Passo Nota 116, 118
Rifugio Pian Cavallone 44-45
Rifugio Stoppani 92, 93
Rifugio Venini 9, 74-75
Riva del Garda 10, 22, 24, 26, 98, 100-101, 104, 106, 109-110, 112, 115, 117, 120, 128-129, 131, 133
Rocchetta 99, 128-129
Rocchetta Giochello 128, 129-130
Ronco Inferiore 61-62
Ronco Superiore 61-62
San Alessandro 98-99
San Amate 68, 70
San Bartolomeo 82-83, 84
San Fedele Intelvi 17-18, 74, 76
San Martino 79-81
San Maurizio d’Opaglio 14, 16
Santa Anna 8, 32, 34
Santa Barbara 104-105
Santa Maria Maddalena 7, 18
Santuario della Madonna del Soccorso 30, 76-77, 78
Santuario Madonna di Montecastello 10, 119-120, cover
Sarangio 46, 48
Sarca Valley 98-100, 101, 102-103
Sass Corbee 63-64, 66-67
Scaligeri Castle 109-110
Sentiero del Viandante 85-86
Serta 76-77
Solasco 76-77
Someraro 14, 52, 55
Sommalemna 32-34
Sormano 19, 21, 94-95
Spoccia 38-39, 40-41
Storo 22, 24
Stresa 9, 12, 14-16, 42, 52, 53-56, 57-58
Tignale 22, 119
Torbole 10, 26, 98, 100-101, 104, 106, 109, 112, 115, 117, 120, 128-129, 131, 133
Torrente Cannobino 34, 39, 41
Torrente Pescone 9, 58-59
Torrente Sanagra 63, 64-66, 67
Traffiume 8, 32-34
Tremezzo 17-18, 74, 76, 79
Tremosine 22, 115-116, 118, 120
Triangolo Lariano 19, 94, 96-97
Val Grande National Park 5, 8, 12, 43-44, 45
Val Menaggio 17, 63, 66, 75, 79-80
Val Perlana 74, 77-78
Val Pogallo 45
Val Pura 112-113, 114, 116
Val Sanagra 63, 66
Valle Veddasca 43, 46-47, 48, 50-51
Valle Cannobina 32-34, 38-39, 41
Valle d’Ampola 24
Valle del Singol 112-113, 113, 116, 118
Valle Intrasca 12-13, 42, 43, 45
Valsassina 19-21, 89
Valvestino 10, 22-23, 122
Varenna 6, 17, 19, 85-86, 87, 90, 92
Vesio 22, 116-118
Viasco 49-51
Vo di Moncodeno 9, 87-88, 89
Voltino 22, 115
Zelbio 19, 21
Italian Lakes 4th edition (2025), updated 17/11/2024
Updates for walks and car tours (drives) around the Italian Lakes given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.
General: Paths in the Italian Lakes seem to change more frequently than in some of our other destintions. But they are always very well waymarked. (Sunflower)
Walk 1: Grade: all the waymarks and signs have been re-done. The downhill timings were very optimistic. You will be fine if you stick to the red & white waymarks. If in doubt follow the red & white waymarks rather than the book. Transport: Don’t make the mistake that we did of thinking it was a camper van! It is a white minibus but may not be very obvious (no destination blind or sign on the front) so flag down anything that looks likely. Otherwise there is an extra 2000 feet of ascent from Cannero Riviera to Cheglio if you miss it. In Cheglio the Bar Elios and bakery is very nice; it is just before the bus stop a the road junction for Colle. )[Sunflower: We are not sure this transport detail still holds true (the bus looking looking like a camper van). (User of previous edition, 6/19)
Walk 6: Transport: By far the nearest stop to the ferry terminal is to the right of it in Piazza Roma. The bus then follows the main road (Via Garibaldi) through town stopping halfway and again in Piazza Vittorio Veneto by the train station. We didn’t do this walk in the end due to heavy rain (the mountain was covered in cloud). If this happens to you, there are no easy low-level options in Maccagno. However there is a good low-level walk in Cannobio (linked to Maccagno by boat). You can walk along the lake in Cannobio then up the River Cannobino to Orrido Santa Anna. You can pick up a map of Cannobio from its tourist office next to the Campanile (open till 12.00) and you can follow a different route back to turn it into a circular walk. (User of previous edition, 6/19)
Walk 8: Equipment: if doing Alternative Walk at top of Mottarone before doing main walk we recommend having lunch in the Bar Alpe Eden as there are no refreshments on the way down until near the end. Low level alternative: There are frequent boats from the cable car terminal at Carciano to the Borromean Islands. (User of previous edition, 6/19)
Walk 9: Transport: there are two bus companies operating between Stresa and Belgirate. Some buses go via Stresa station but all buses stop outside Stresa church. The buses take you to Belgirate church which is where the 76 steps start the walk whereas Belgirate train station is further away from the centre. Between Waypoints 8 and 9: near the war memorial you may hear peacocks and zebras from the Villa Pallavicino zoological gardens on your right. If you end up with time to spare these are well worth a visit. To do that, turn right after the zoological gardens to go down to the main coastal road then turn right again to find the main entrance. They are open quite late (till about 6pm) and there is a small admission fee.(User of previous edition, 6/19)
Walk 22: Transport: city bus 5 departs from Via Montello (a very short street opposite the train station); the bus also stops in Piazza Manzoni and Piazza Mazzini. Get tickets in advance from a news kiosk or tobacconist. (User of previous edition, 6/19)
GPS files for use with Landscapes of the Italian Lakes guidebook:
Download GPS files for walking in the Italian Lakes.
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