Walking the Italian Lakes
£10.00
75 long and short walks and 5 car tours
by David Robertson & Sarah Stewart
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A guidebook to walking the Italian Lakes, featuring 75 of the best long and short day walks. We cover Maggiore, Lugano, Como and Garda, plus some of the lesser-known lakes such as Orta, showing trekking routes of varying difficulty, all of which are mapped in detail.
Many of the hikes are circular, taking you to the best vantage points around these lakes, bounded by high mountains to the north and the Lombardy Plain in the south.
This guide also includes 5 car tours, 2 touring maps and free downloadable GPS tracks.
When to go: The best months for walking the Italian Lakes are April, May, June and September.
Print book: £12.99 / PDF book £10.00
Purchase the complete book as a downloadable PDF using the button below:
This new 3rd edition of our guidebook to walking the Italian Lakes has been carefully revised just a few months prior to publication.
The topo maps now show waypoints, and free downloadable GPS tracks are available for all the hikes. Colour coding on the Contents page enables you to see at a glance the grading of various treks.
These great expanses of water, bound to the north by high mountains and stretching down towards the Lombardy Plain, all resulted from glacial activity.
While this guide focuses primarily on walking the Italian Lakes, you can gain huge satisfaction from touring the Italian Lakes by car as well.
Whether on foot or by car, you will discover timeless hill villages, ancient mule tracks and panoramic mountain viewpoints.
There are numerous places throughout the region to choose from, though most people booking a package holiday will be staying at a resort decided by the tour operator. For example, visitors to Lake Garda will possibly be staying at Riva del Garda, Limone, Sirmione or one of the many other villages that border the lake. For each walk in the book the authors indicate the location of the nearest accommodation. While public transport (buses, trains, lake steamers, cable cars etc.) is detailed for each walk where available, do note that there are a number of walks in this book which are only accessible by car.
5 car tours, 75 long and short walks
136 pages + 2 touring maps; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
3rd ed, 2018; ISBN 978-1-85691-505-2; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $18.00
Table of contents:
Preface 5
Acknowledgements 6
Getting there and getting about 7
Picnicking 8
Picnic suggestions 8
TOURING 11
Car tour 1: ON THE EDGE OF VAL GRANDE 12
Car tour 2: MOTTARONE – THE MOUNTAIN OF TWO LAKES 14
Car tour 3: BORDER HOPPING AROUND LAKE LUGANO 17
Car tour 4: VALSASSINA AND THE TRIANGOLO LARIANO 19
Car tour 5: A TOUR OF FOUR LAKES 22
WALKING
Grades, waymarks, maps 25
The Italian Alpine Club (CAI) 26
Equipment and Safety 26
Weather 27
Where to stay 27
Nuisances 28
Organisation of the walks 28
Country code 29
Recommended reading; Useful contacts 29
Italian for walkers, with short glossary 30
THE WALKS
1 Cheglio · Monte Carza · Monte Pian Bello · Cima Tondone Sommalemna · Pianoni · Orrido di Santa Anna· Traffiume · Cannobio 32
2 Cannero Riviera · Cheggio · Carmine Superiore · Mulinesc · Cannobio 35
3 Falmenta · Ponte Spoccia · Spoccia · Orasso · Cursolo · Ponte Teia · Gurro · Mergugna · Falmenta 38
4 Il Colle · Monte Spalavera · col before Cima l’Alpe · col near Ospedaletto · Il Colle 42
5 Cappella Fina · Monte Todun · Pizzo Pernice · Pian Cavallone · I Balmitt · Cappella Fina 44
6 Biegno · Cangili · Montereccio · Forcoletta ·Monte Sirti · La Forcola · Lago d’Elio · Musignano · Sarangio · Maccagno 46
7 Curiglia · Ponte di Piero · Monteviasco · Alpe Cortetti · Viasco · Curiglia 49
8 Mottarone station · Mottarone · Alpino station · Giardino Alpinia · Levo · Someraro · Carciano di Stresa 52
9 Belgirate · Calogna · Magognino · Brisino · Stresa 56
10 Agrano · Alpe Selviana · Pescone · Pratolungo · Monte Crabbia · Agrano 58
11 Pella · Ronco Inferiore · Ronco Superiore · Colma · Grassona · Egro · Pella 61
12 Menaggio · Loveno · Pianure · Codogna · Il Rogolone · Gottro · Naggio · Codogna · Pianure · Loveno · Menaggio 63
13 Breglia · Rifugio Menaggio · Monte Grona · San Amate · Breglia 68
14 Stazione Generoso Vetta · Monte Generoso · Barco dei Montoni · Alpe Pescio · Stazione Generoso Vetta 71
15 Alpe di Lenno · Rifugio Venini · Alpe di Mezzegra · Monte Crocione · Monte di Tremezzo · Monte Calbiga · Alpe di Lenno 74
16 Pigra · Serta · Corniga · Solasco · Monti i Prati · Canelva · Gravona · Santuario della Madonna del Soccorso · Ossuccio 76
17 Griante · San Martino · Il Dossone · Bocchetta di Nava · Croce · (Menaggio) 79
18 San Bartolomeo · Alpe di Mezzo · Alpe Gigiai · Alpe Zocca · Montalto · Fordeccia · San Bartolomeo 82
19 Sentiero del Viandante, from Bellano to Varenna 85
20 Vo di Moncodeno · Porta Prada · Bocchetta dei Guzzi · Grigna Settentrionale · Vo di Moncodeno 87
21 Laorca · Cappella San Martino · Chiesa San Martino · Cappella San Martino · Laorca 90
22 Piani d’Erna · Costa · Funivia d’Erna (lower cable car station) 92
23 Colma · Monte Croce · Monte Palanzone · Monte Croce · Colma 94
24 Parco Monte San Primo · Rifugio Martina · Monte San Primo · Alpe del Borgo · Parco Monte San Primo 96
25 Porto San Nicolo · Forte Garda · Batteria di Mezzo · Forte San Alessandro · San Alessandro · Grotta · Porto San Nicolo 98
26 Arco · Laghel · Colodri · Monte Colt · Croce di Colt · Laghel · Arco 101
27 Santa Barbara · Castello del Castil · Le Prese · Monte Stivo · Santa Barbara 104
28 Monte Baldo cable car station · Cima delle Pozzette (Monte Baldo massif) · Monte Baldo cable car station 106
29 Malcesine · Madonna dell’Accoglienza · Paier · Dumez · Malcesine 109
30 Limone sul Garda · Valle del Singol · Dalco · Dega · Val Pura · Limone sul Garda 112
31 Monte Bestone 115
32 Vesio · Passo Nota · Valle di Bondo · Vesio 117
33 Monte Castello 119
34 Navazzo · Monte Castello di Gaino · Navazzo 121
35 Cima Rest · Monte Caplone · Malga Tombea · Bocca di Caplone · Pilaster · Cima Rest 123
36 Moerna · Bocca Cocca · Bocca di Valle · Persone · Moerna 125
37 Biacesa · Bochet dei Concoli · Rocchetta Giochello · Bocca Giumella · Malga Giumella Inferiore · Biacesa 128
38 Biacesa · Nodice · Pregasina · Biacesa 131
Index 134
Fold-out touring maps inside back cover
Transport information inside back cover
Agrano 9, 14-15, 58-60
Alpe Cortetti 49, 51
Alpe del Borgo 96-97
Alpe di Lenno 9, 74-75
Alpe di Mezzegra 74-75
Alpe di Mezzo 82-83, 84
Alpe Gigiai 82-83, 84
Alpe Pescedo 82-83, 84
Alpe Pescio 71, 73
Alpe Selviana 9, 58-60
Alpe Zocca 82-83, 84
Alpino 14-5, 52-53, 54
Alveo Lago Bondo 24, 116-118
Arco 26, 99-101, 103-104, 110, 129
Argegno 17-18, 76
Armeno 14-16, 58, 60
Arogno 17-18
Asso 19, 21
Aurano 12-13
Ballabio 19-20
Barco dei Montoni 71, 73
Baveno 14, 16
Belgirate 56-57
Bellagio 10, 17, 19-20, 21, 77-78, 80, 85-87, 90, 92, 94, 96-97
Bellano 1, 6, 85-86, 87, 90
Bezzecca 22, 24
Biacesa 22, 24, 128-129, 130, 132-133
Biegno 46, 49-50
Bocca di Caplone 122-124, 127
Bocca Cocca 125-126
Bocca di Valle 125, 127
Blevio 63
Bobbio, Piani di 20
Bocchetta dei Guzzi 87-88
Bocchetta di Nava 79-80
Borromean Islands 5, 14, 54-55
Breglia 67, 68-70
Brisino 56-57
Cadenabbia 18, 21, 79
Calogna 56-57
Cambiasca 12, 44
Canelva 76-77, 78
Cangili 46-47, 49
Cannero Riviera 12-13, 32, 35, 37-38, 46, 49
Cannobio 8, 12-14, 32-35, 37-38, 46, 49
Canzo 9, 19, 21
Capolago 17, 71, 73
Capovalle 22-23
Cappella Fina 44-45
Cappella San Martino 90-91, 91
Cappella Votiva 9, 87, 88
Carciano 3, 52-55
Carciano di Stresa 52-54, 55
Carmine Inferiore 8, 12, 35, 37
Carmine Superiore 3, 8, 35, 36- 37
Castello del Castil 104-105
Cheggio 35-36
Cheglio 32, 34
Chiesa San Martino 90-91
Chiodera 66-67
Cima delle Pozzette 106-107
Cima Forcola 33-34
Cima l’Alpe 34, 42
Cima Rest 122-124
Cima Tondone 32-34
Codogna 63, 64-66, 67, 80
Colma 10, 19, 21, 61-62, 94-95, 95
Colodri 101-102
Corniga 76-77
Cortenova 19
Costa 92-93
Croce 17, 67, 79, 81
Croce di Colt 101, 103
Croce Pizzo d’Erna 9, 92
Curiglia 49-51
Cursolo 38-40, 41
Dalco 112-113, 114, 116
Dega 112-113, 114, 116
Dumez 109, 111
Egro 61-62
Esino Lario 19, 87
Esino Valley 19
Falmenta 38-39, 41
Forcoletta 46-47, 49
Fordeccia 82-83, 84
Forte Garda 98, 99
Forte San Alessandro 98-99
Funivia d’Erna 92
Gargnano 22, 119, 121-123, 125
Ghiffa 12
Giardino Alpinia 52, 55
Gignese 14, 16, 58
Gottro 63, 65-66
Gozzano 14, 16
Grandola Ed Uniti 66
Grassona 61-62
Gravona 76-77, 78
Griante 17-18, 79-80
Grigna 9, 19-20, 80, 87, 95, 97
Meridionale 87, 89, 92
Settentrionale 87-88, 88-89
Grotta 98, 100
Gurro 38, 39, 40-41
I Balmitt 44-45
Il Colle 34, 42-43
Il Dossone 79-80
Il Rogolone 63-66
Intelvi Valley 17-18
Intra 12-13, 42
Introbio 19-20
Isola Bella 53-54
Isola Madre 54-55, 57
Isola Pescatori 53-54
Isola San Giulio 9, 14-15, 61
La Forcola 46-47
Laghel 101-103
Lago/Lake
Annone 20, 91
Como 1, 2, 5, 7, 17-20, 25, 27, 43, 67, 69-70, 72, 74-77, 77-79, 81, 83, 85-87, 90-91, 94-97
Elio 46-48
Garda 2, 5-7, 10, 22-27, 98, 98-99, 102, 107, 109-110, 113-114, 115-116, 119-120, 122, 124, 131-132, 133
Garlate 91
Idro 10, 23, 125, 127
Ledro 10, 22, 24
Lugano 5, 9, 17-18, 25, 27, 43, 63, 64-65, 69, 71-72, 75
Maggiore 5, 7-8, 12-15, 25-27, 32-33, 35, 36-37, 42, 44, 47, 50, 53-57, 61, 72, 75
Orta 9, 14-16, 25-26, 52, 58, 60-62
Piano 17, 63, 64-65, 66, 75
Segrino 9, 21
Lanzo d’Intelvi 17-18
Laorca 19-20, 90-91
Le Prese 104-105, 105
Lecco 7, 9, 19-21, 85, 90-92, 96-97
Lemprato 10, 22-23
Lenno 18, 21, 74, 76-77, 77
Levo 14, 52-53, 53, 55
Limone sul Garda 22, 106, 109, 112-115, 117-119, 121, 123, 125
Lombardy Plain 5, 97
Loveno 63, 67
Lugano 17, 71
Luino 8, 43, 49
Maccagno 37, 46-48, 49
Madonna dell’ Accoglienza 109, 111
Madonna del Sasso 14, 16, 62
Madri 65-66, 67
Magognino 56-57
Malcesine 10, 106-107, 108-109, 110-111, 129
Malga Tombea 122-124
Menaggio 17-19, 21, 63, 65-71, 74, 76, 79, 81-82, 85, 87
Mergugna 38-39, 41
Moerna 10, 22-23, 125-127
Molina di Ledro 22, 24
Montalto 82, 83, 84
Monte Baldo 10, 106-107, 109, 116, 122, 124, 129, 133
Cable car station 106-108
San Michele station 108, 109, 111
Monte Berlinghera 82-83, 83-84
Monte Bestone 10, 113-115, 116
Monte Bregagno 68-70
Monte Brione 10, 98, 98-100, 129, 133
Monte Calbiga 9, 74-75
Monte Caplone 122-124, 126-127
Monte Carza 32-33, 35, 43
Monte Castello 10, 22, 119-120, cover
Monte Castello di Gaino 22-23, 121-122
Monte Colt 101, 102-103
Monte Crabbia 58, 60
Monte Croce 94-95
Monte Crocione 2, 74-75, 79-80
Monte di Tremezzo 74-75, 82, 85, 97
Monte Falo 10, 94-95
Monte Generoso 5, 9, 17-18, 43, 71-72, 73, 75, 97
Stazione Bella Vista 71, 73
Stazione Generoso Vetta 9, 71, 73
Monte Grande 10, 106, 109
Monte Grona 65-66, 68-70, 75, 82
Monte Palanzone 94-95, 97
Monte Pian Bello 32-34
Monte Resegone 9, 90, 92-93
Monte San Primo 21, 94-95, 96-97, 97
Monte Sirti 46-48
Monte Spalavera 34, 42-43, 45
Monte Stivo 104-105, 105, 116, 129, 133
Monte Todun I-45
Monte di Tremezzo 5, 74-75, 82, 85, 97
Montereccio 46-47, 49
Monteviasco 46, 49-51
Monti i Prati 76-77
Mottarone 9, 14-16, 42, 52-53, 61, 72
Mulinesc 35, 37
Musignano 46, 48
Naggio 63, 65-66, 67, 80
Navazzo 22-23, 121-122
Nesso 19, 21
Nodice 128-129, 131, 131, 132, 133
Orasso 38, 39-40
Oratorio del Sasso 40
Orrido di Santa Anna 32, 34
Orta San Giulio 9, 14-16, 58, 61
Ospedaletto 7, 18, 42-43
Ossuccio 17-18, 30, 74, 76-78
Paier 108-109, 111
Palestra di Roccia 9, 52
Pallanza 12, 55
Parco Monte San Primo 96-97
Parlasco 19
Passo Nota 116-118
Pella 9, 14, 16, 60-62
Persone 10, 22-23, 125, 127
Pescone 15, 58-60
Pettenasco 14-15, 58, 60
Pian Cavallone 44-45
Piancavallo 8, 12-13, 42
Piani d’Erna 9, 92-93
Pianoni 32-34
Pianure 63, 66-67
Pieve di Ledro 10, 22-24
Pieve Vecchia 22-23
Pigra 74, 76
Pilaster 122, 123-124
Pizzo Pernice 44-45
Ponte Caffero 22-24
Ponte di Piero 49-50
Ponte Spoccia 38-39
Ponte Teia 38-39, 41
Porlezza 17
Porta Prada 9, 87-88, 89
Porto San Nicolo 10, 98-100
Pratolungo 58, 60
Pregasina 10, 24, 131-132, 133
Premeno 8, 12-13, 42
Punta di Crabbia 15
Pusiano 19, 21
Rifugio Arnaldo Bogani 88-89
Rifugio Luigi Bietti 88
Rifugio Luigi Brioschi 87-88, 88-89
Rifugio Martina 96-97
Rifugio Menaggio 66, 68-70, 70
Rifugio Monte Stivo 104-105
Rifugio Passo Nota 116, 118
Rifugio Pian Cavallone 44-45
Rifugio Stoppani 92, 93
Rifugio Venini 9, 74-75
Riva del Garda 10, 22, 24, 26, 98, 100-101, 104, 106, 109-110, 112, 115, 117, 120, 128-129, 131, 133
Rocchetta 99, 128-129
Rocchetta Giochello 128, 129-130
Ronco Inferiore 61-62
Ronco Superiore 61-62
San Alessandro 98-99
San Amate 68, 70
San Bartolomeo 82-83, 84
San Fedele Intelvi 17-18, 74, 76
San Martino 79-81
San Maurizio d’Opaglio 14, 16
Santa Anna 8, 32, 34
Santa Barbara 104-105
Santa Maria Maddalena 7, 18
Santuario della Madonna del Soccorso 30, 76-77, 78
Santuario Madonna di Montecastello 10, 119-120, cover
Sarangio 46, 48
Sarca Valley 98-100, 101, 102-103
Sass Corbee 63-64, 66-67
Scaligeri Castle 109-110
Sentiero del Viandante 85-86
Serta 76-77
Solasco 76-77
Someraro 14, 52, 55
Sommalemna 32-34
Sormano 19, 21, 94-95
Spoccia 38-39, 40-41
Storo 22, 24
Stresa 9, 12, 14-16, 42, 52, 53-56, 57-58
Tignale 22, 119
Torbole 10, 26, 98, 100-101, 104, 106, 109, 112, 115, 117, 120, 128-129, 131, 133
Torrente Cannobino 34, 39, 41
Torrente Pescone 9, 58-59
Torrente Sanagra 63, 64-66, 67
Traffiume 8, 32-34
Tremezzo 17-18, 74, 76, 79
Tremosine 22, 115-116, 118, 120
Triangolo Lariano 19, 94, 96-97
Val Grande National Park 5, 8, 12, 43-44, 45
Val Menaggio 17, 63, 66, 75, 79-80
Val Perlana 74, 77-78
Val Pogallo 45
Val Pura 112-113, 114, 116
Val Sanagra 63, 66
Valle Veddasca 43, 46-47, 48, 50-51
Valle Cannobina 32-34, 38-39, 41
Valle d’Ampola 24
Valle del Singol 112-113, 113, 116, 118
Valle Intrasca 12-13, 42, 43, 45
Valsassina 19-21, 89
Valvestino 10, 22-23, 122
Varenna 6, 17, 19, 85-86, 87, 90, 92
Vesio 22, 116-118
Viasco 49-51
Vo di Moncodeno 9, 87-88, 89
Voltino 22, 115
Zelbio 19, 21
Italian Lakes 3rd edition (2018), updated 03/05/2022
Updates for walks and car tours (drives) around the Italian Lakes given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.
Grading: Walk 9 is described as “Easy,” Walk 11 as “Easy” and Walk 14 as “Moderate.” There is a very substantial ‘up’ in Walk 9, followed by long stretches of cobbled pathway – tricky downhill, especially if wet. So we found 9 as demanding as 14. (User, 4/19)
Car Tour 3: You write, ‘Keep beside the lake all the way through the city’ (Lugano). We found this to be impossible, as the road leaves the lakeside at several points. It would be simpler to tell people to follow the signs for Chiasso until they are through the city. (User, 4/19)
Walk 9: Returning from the church at waypoint 3, the directions ‘turn sharp right (signposted red/white waymarks)’ are ambiguous. What is a sharp right depends on where you are standing, and the waymark could be seen as pointing to either. If anything, it seems to be pointing to the wrong path. We guessed, happily correctly. (User, 4/19) [Sunflower comments: the turn is at a crossroads just below the church, the first right turn, a narrow lane.] + We took the train from Stresa to Belgirate because the schedule worked out better that way than going by ferry. (There seemed to be lots of ferries in that direction in the afternoon, but not the morning.) If you look at the map, the church is most definitely to the left of the Belgirate train station. The directions in the book tell you to go south from the ferry terminal and along to the end of Via Elena Conelli, “then cross the road to the train station…” which we took to mean that the train station (i.e., where we were) was actually there. But it actually meant the road that leads eventually to the train station. Given that not everyone will arrive by ferry, it would be useful to make this clear and give alternate starting directions for those who do arrive by train. From the train station, there is a tunnel/bridge to take you under the tracks, from which you would presumably turn left and follow that road to the point at the end of Via Elena Conelli. (User, 4/19) + Equipment: we didn’t see any refreshments in Magognino but maybe they were off route. Transport: there are two bus companies operating between Stresa and Belgirate. Some buses go via Stresa station but all buses stop outside Stresa church. The buses take you to Belgirate church which is where the 76 steps start the walk whereas Belgirate train station is further away from the centre. Waypoint 3: in Calogna there is a nice bar up some steps from the T-junction. These steps continue up to the church. The trees planted as a war memorial by the church have gone but the commemorative stones are still there. The previous update has if anything made leaving the church more complicated. Simply come out of the church and go down the steps with the commemorative stones, then turn right (but not sharp right) at the bottom of these steps. The path goes slightly downhill and soon has waymarks though not immediately. Waypoint 5: the petroglyphs are actually on another chapel not mentioned between San Paolo and San Grato. There is a board explaining what they are. Between Waypoints 8 and 9: near the war memorial you may hear peacocks and zebras from the Villa Pallavicino zoological gardens on your right. If you end up with time to spare these are well worth a visit. To do that, turn right after the zoological gardens to go down to the main coastal road then turn right again to find the main entrance. They are open quite late (till about 6pm) and there is a small admission fee. (User, 6/19)
Walk 11: This walk is described as not being waymarked. In fact, the path up from Ronco Inferiore toward Ronco Superiore is now waymarked – it looks as though it might be a newer, wider path. Returning to Pella, the directions keep you on a busy road – we found and followed a path instead. (User, 4/19) [Sunflower: Below waypoint 8, on the first hairpin bend to the left, you can turn right on a track for a few paces, then left down a path – cutting off just one loop of the road.] … The waypoint 6 is missing from the text, when you pass a small CEMETERY, before the church of Santa Maria. After that church, you turn left (not right) on Via Piana d’ebro. (Sunflower)
Walk 14: The directions in waypoint 1 refer to the option of turning left at the summit turnstile and taking a steep path with a cable handrail. This option seems no longer to exist, and I think the turnstile is gone as well: there is just the viewing platform with railing all around it. So the only option is the one you recommend – backtracking to the path that forks left… We did not find either of the signposts mentioned at waypoint 4. It’s possible we did not go far enough in the right direction. (User, 4/19)Walk 22: Distance/time: the route down takes considerably longer than stated so allow plenty of time. Grade: the waymarks are intermittent and have faded so keep a sharp eye out for any combination of red, white or yellow waymarks. Transport: city bus 5 departs from Via Montello (a very short street opposite the train station); the bus also stops in Piazza Manzoni and Piazza Mazzini. Get tickets in advance from a news kiosk or tobacconist (there is one outside the station). Short walk: Sentiero Natura. The nature trail is actually 7km (twice as long) so either it has been extended or there was a mistake in the book. It has been re-signposted in green and white; it is easy to follow and really worth doing but do allow more time. Combining the short and main walks does make a full day as stated. Waypoint 3: the route down starts by following signposted route 7 (there is no sign of route 1A). Waypoint 4: the left hand path is no longer signposted to Rifugio Stoppani but it is obvious. Waypoint 5: this is a critical junction as you switch from route 7 to route 1. (User, 6/19)
Free to visit; 10am to 5pm. We actually arrived at 9.25am and were let in early! (User, 9/19)
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