Discover Eastern Provence
Eastern Provence, a sun-kissed region in southeastern France, offers a diverse range of walking opportunities, from the stunning coastal paths of the Côte d’Azur to the challenging mountain trails of the Alps. Our guidebook to walking in Eastern Provence is your ideal companion.
Below are some of our favourite walks in the area.
Mont Chauve d’Aspremont – Walk 2
The flanks of Mont Chauve (‘Bald Mountain’) are virtually treeless, so all along this invigorating ridge walk you’ll have unimpeded views.
The sense of isolation is wonderful, too. It’s hard to believe you’re at the edge of the Riviera – until you take in the panorama from the massive fort!
Peille and Peillon – Walk 3
Old trails – some dating from Roman times – are followed in this circuit via the exquisite perched villages of Peille and Peillon.
Which will you prefer? Peille thrills with its via ferrata; Peillon is picture-postcard perfect and home to a top-class hotel, where you could enjoy a coffee on the terrace before the walk.
Circuit above Theoule-sur-Mer – Walk 6
One of the advantages of a break on the Côte d’Azur is the excellent public transport.
There’s plenty of walking in this book for which you won’t need a hire car – especially if you’re based between Cannes and Nice.
This little gem is a perfect example but, by referring to the paths on the map highlighted in lilac (all waymarked), you can make up any combination of routes.
We like to do this walk by train, but you can also return by bus from the beachside restaurant at the end of the walk.
La Turbie to Eze-Bord-de-Mer – Walk 8
On this walk you will enjoy some of the finest views on the whole of the Riviera. The main walk rises gently along the north side of the Grande Corniche crest, with superb views up to the mountains, before crossing the shoulder – to a magnificent coastal panorama.
From here the main walk dives south, with plunging views over Eze and Cap Ferrat.
The Alternative walk contours east along the old corniche military track, with coastal views towards Italy
L’Arpiha – Walk 12
Turini! One of the first places we make for when we arrive at Nice. Surrounded by magnificent forests of firs and spruce, this eyrie is as silent and refreshing as a Christmas morning snowfall, except when there’s a motor rally on the famous hairpin road!
Nearby are the gold-green mountains of the Authion – backdrop for this walk.
Lac de Trecolpas and Refuge de la Cougourde – Walk 13
This is one of the most rewarding walks in the Mercantour National Park – especially considering the little effort involved.
There is ample shade on the lower slopes, and much of the walk follows a foaming stream. But the two highlights are the teal-blue Lac de Trécolpas and the magnificent rock bastion of La Cougourde.
Throughout the walk be alert: you will find many pockets of alpine flora and almost certainly see chamois.
Cole de Fenestre and Pas des Ladres – Walk 14
This classic walk – barren and austere – is steeped in history. It is thought that a Roman temple and travellers’ shelter once existed near the spot where the chapel now stands at Madone de Fenestre.
But the trail we follow to the Col de Fenestre predates even Roman times. For a thousand years, until the end of World War II, this route was often a battleground.
Even in the 16th century, when both sides of the col belonged to the House of Savoy, the breach was closed in a vain effort to stop the plague spreading south from Piedmont to Nice.
The detritus of World War II, barbed wire, rubble and bunkhouses, still menaces the Col de Fenestre, which today marks the border with Italy.
Circuit from Gourdon – Walk 17
The first part of this walk, a descent on the aptly-named ‘Paradise Trail’, is an extravaganza of bird’s-eye views down over the lush Loup Valley and the coast.
We then follow a piped watercourse through aromatic pines, in the company of butterflies and dark red squirrels.
At the end of the walk, there is a gradual climb under the pleasant shade of oaks.
The best time of year for walking in Eastern Provence
The best time to walk in Eastern Provence is during the shoulder seasons, spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October).
The weather is mild, the crowds are smaller, and the scenery is stunning.
However, summer (June-August) can also be a great time to visit, especially for those who enjoy swimming and sunbathing.
Getting around the region
The region is well-connected by train to cities in France, with lines running from major cities like Paris and Marseille to smaller towns like Nice and Cannes.
Buses are a convenient and affordable way to get around, especially for shorter journeys.
However, renting a car is a good option for those who want more flexibility and independence.
Be aware that driving on the winding coastal roads can be challenging, and parking can be difficult in popular tourist destinations.
Eastern Provence offers a unique blend of coastal beauty, alpine grandeur, and cultural heritage. With our guidebook to walking in Eastern Provence you can discover the best that this region has to offer.
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