Walking in the Picos de Europa

Conquer the Picos de Europa!

The Picos de Europa, a dramatic mountain range in northern Spain, are a hiker’s paradise. Explore soaring peaks, deep valleys and pristine lakes, in this region which offers a diverse range of trails for all abilities.

Whether you’re a seasoned mountaineer or a casual walker, you’ll find something to challenge and inspire you.

Our guidebook to walking in the Picos de Europa is your ideal companion – below are some of our favourite walks.

Potes circular walk (Walk 1)

This walk is definitely best undertaken in the morning. It will make the most of the splendid views of the Picos de Europa from the Collado de Porcieda. Also, the steep ascent is a killer on a hot afternoon!

The route takes you through three of the most remote villages in Liébana, with charming vernacular architecture. It also gives you a taste of the typically Mediterranean vegetation of this southeastern corner of the Picos.

In particular, the descent through the cork oak forests of Tolibes is a unique experience in the Cordillera Cantábrica. These these trees usually are confined to more southerly regions.

La ruta de Tresviso (Walk 3)

Although the remote mountain village of Tresviso is now connected to the Asturian enclave of Sotres by road, its main link with the outside world for most of the twentieth century was the old mining track that zigzags steeply up from the Desfiladero de La Hermida.

There is no doubt that it is a tough climb, but this is more than compensated for by the splendid views and the feeling of achievement on reaching the top.

The route is a spectacular feat of engineering, considering the terrain through which it passes. It is divided into four sets of zigzags, separated by flatter intervals, but the gradient never exceeds 30 degrees.

La Garganta del Cares (Walk 7)

The route through the Garganta del Cares (literally the ‘throat’ of the Río Cares) is perhaps the classic walk in the Cordillera Cantábrica. However, as its fame is steadily escalating, it is perhaps wise to avoid July and August, as well as weekends throughout the year.

The electricity company Viesgo constructed the trail in the 1940s in order to maintain the hydroelectric canal that runs between Caín and Camarmeña. Nowadays it coincides with the PR-PNPE 3.

The sheltered depths of the gorge enjoy a mild climate, which encourages an essentially Mediterranean flora to flourish.

Picos de Macondíu (Walk 9)

This superb walk takes you across some of the least-visited limestone terrain in Ándara – the eastern massif of the Picos de Europa.

Although fairly long, the gradient is never excessive and the whole circuit takes place on a well-marked track, carved out of the living rock in the last century to provide access to the zinc mines in the heart of Ándara.

It coincides with the PR-PNPE 28, signposted at strategic points. Choose a clear day in early summer and you’ll be rewarded by breathtaking scenery and an incredible diversity of wildflowers. But best of all, you’ll hardly meet a soul.

Lago de la Ercina circular walk (Walk 11)

Head into the heart of the western massif of the Picos de Europa on this route. Walk through some of the most impressive areas of limestone pavement in the whole range, with an alpine flora and fauna to match.

The climb is well worth the effort, as the view of the peaks of Urrieles is magnificent from the Vega de Ario.

When to visit

Situated only about 25km/15 miles from the sea, the northern reaches of the Picos de Europa are profoundly affected by depressions sweeping in across the Atlantic Ocean. This makes the climate warm but wet, and the tops of the mountains are often shrouded in mist.

In contrast, the southern valleys lie in the lee of the highest peaks in northern Spain outside the Pyrenees. Consequently, precipitation is lower and the climate is markedly Mediterranean in character.

In winter snow falls heavily down to about 1000m/3280ft, sometimes persisting until June on the highest north-facing slopes. Thus some of the walks in this book may be impassable in winter. Even the car tour, which crosses four mountain passes, may not be feasible.

Summer clouds

Some mornings in the summer you may wake to find the cloud level barely above your head. This is the result of a temperature inversion, and by midday the cloud has usually dissipated completely. In contrast, I have a marked mistrust of summer mornings that dawn unusually clear, as they often lead to an afternoon thunderstorm. Do make an early start under such conditions.

Be warned that mists can build up in the high mountains at any time of day or in any season, so always take adequate clothing, extra rations and a compass/GPS. Remember, too, that at altitude the rays of the sun are much stronger. So, even if a cool breeze is blowing, make sure you wear your sunhat and apply a high-factor suncream.

Getting around the region

The Picos de Europa are accessible by car, bus, and train. The main towns in the region are Cangas de Onís, Potes, and Arenas de Cabrales.

Explore the region by buses that connect the main towns and villages, but they may not reach all trailheads. Therefore, renting a car is the most convenient way to explore the region at your own pace.

The Picos de Europa are a dream destination for hikers, offering a diverse range of trails and stunning landscapes. Friendly locals, delicious food, and breathtaking scenery, make the Picos de Europa a truly unforgettable destination.

Buy our guidebook to walking in the Picos de Europa.