Walking in Umbria and the Marche

Walking in Umbria and the Marche: through Italy’s green heart

Umbria and the Marche, two regions nestled in the heart of Italy, offer a unique and unforgettable walking experience.

With their rolling hills, medieval towns, and charming villages, these regions offer some fantastic walking routes.

Whether you’re looking for a challenging mountain trek or a leisurely stroll through vineyards and olive groves, our guidebook to walking in Umbria and the Marche will help you get the most out of your trip.

Below we have described some of our favourite walks.

Passignano, Lake Trasimeno and Isola Maggiore (Walk 1)

From the little town of Passignano, a pleasant holiday resort on the northern shores of Lake Trasimeno, the first circuit of this walk climbs through olive groves, broom meadows and small woods to a ridge.

Looking back down from here, the wide blue lake, dotted with three tiny islands, is laid out before you.

Back at Passignano, we take the ferry to nearby Isola Maggiore. This unspoilt idyllic islet has no road traffic and only one tiny village, which we discover on the second circuit of the walk.

From Assisi across Monte Subasio to Spello (Walk 5)

Many legends tell of Saint Francis of Assisi’s love of nature and of how he withdrew into the forests of Monte Subasio for prayer and meditation.

This long hike from Assisi to the medieval town of Spello follows in his footsteps.

Past the Franciscan hermitage of Eremo delle Carceri with its ancient holm oaks, we rise up to the mountain pastures of the bleak summit ridge, from where we enjoy a superb panorama. This walk is at its best in early summer, when the wide grassy slopes are blanketed with flowers.

Through the Valnerina from Scheggino to Piedipaterno (Walk 11)

Walking is undoubtedly the best way to enjoy the idyllic scenery of the Valnerina. There’s also the steeply-sloping valley of the river Nera, with its old villages and meadows thick with wild flowers.

To see the loveliest stretch – from Ferentillo in the south, where the valley narrows almost to a gorge, to Borgo Cerreto in the north, beyond which the old trail has disappeared beneath a road – takes two days of easy walking.

The day walk described here covers the middle stretch, from Scheggino to Piedipaterno. It runs a little away above the valley. We walk through oak forests and along meadows full of gorse, with lovely views over the valley.

En route is the remote medieval village of Vallo di Nera, perched on a hill. Anywhere but in Italy, this would certainly be a well-known tourist sight!

On Monte Nerone near Piobbico (Walk 18)

On this hike we explore the varied, sometimes wild landscape on the northern slopes of Monte Nerone.

Winding streams with little waterfalls, rocky limestone cliffs and sombre little woods accompany us through the remote valleys of Fosso dell’Eremita, Fosso Pisciarello and Rio Vitoschio.

The latter is particularly idyllic. Colourful butterflies and shiny blue dragonflies buzz through the fresh green above the clear waters of the stream.

The Gola Della Rossa near Frasassi (Walk 24)

The creation of the Frasassi Nature Reserve has not prevented the construction of an expressway and the continued existence of a large quarry within the protected area.

Nevertheless some pleasant walks through unspoilt countryside still exist around the gorges of the Esino and Sentino rivers, lined by steep limestone cliffs.

This walk leads initially into the remote Valle del Vernino, with its varied vegetation and a cave leading deep into Monte Tordina.

Afterwards we climb Monte Murano for a good view over the mountainous surroundings.

Below the rocky pyramid of Monte Bove (Walk 30)

Monte Bove is probably the most impressive mountain in the entire Sibillini range. Like an Alpine limestone peak, its sheer, mighty northern rock face looms above the Ussita torrent.

This walk follows the shade of its high cliffs through the remote Val di Panico. The route leads you up to the grassy slopes of Pizzo Tre Vescovi, from where we enjoy superb views.

Because of the height gain the walk is quite strenuous. Nowhere along the route are mountaineering skills required.

Above the sea on Monte Conero (Walk 37)

The flat Adriatic coast of the Marche, with its dead straight shorelines full of holiday places, campsites and hotels is definitely not an area for lovely walks through unspoilt nature.

Only the small coastal mountain range of Monte Conero, a nature reserve on the doorstep of Ancona, breaks the scenic monotony.

This walk follows small tracks, trails and paths through typical Mediterranean macchia with evergreen shrubby woods. The sweet-scented pines and broom-filled meadows shining bright yellow in early summer.

At several points we enjoy superb views down to the sea and the steeply-dropping coastal slopes. There’s a chance to swim, too, at Sirolo’s San Michele beach.

The best time for walking in Umbria and the Marche

In the lower mountain ranges, spring (from April to midJune) and autumn (mid-September to the end of October) are the best seasons for walking.

Temperatures are pleasant and often a clear blue sky arches above the undulating hills. But be prepared for rain every now and then, especially from April to mid-May and in October. Although in general wet conditions will not last very long.

During high summer it’s often very hot: only by starting at sunrise, to be back home by noon at the latest, can a walk be enjoyed.

It’s also pleasant to walk from November to March, at least in the lower areas, if the weather is kind to you.

On the high mountains of the Apennines, especially in the Monti Sibillini, conditions are of course a bit different. You can even hike here in high summer, while in winter deep snow often covers the ground.

Getting around Umbria and the Marche

Car hire is available at all airports and also at some railway stations. Trains run from Rome to Florence via Orvieto and Terontola. From Rome they go to Ancona via Terni, Spoleto, Foligno, Fossato di Vico and Fabriano.

From Foligno there are connections to Florence via Assisi, Perugia and Lake Trasimeno. A local line connects Perugia with Todi and Terni.

On the east coast, main line trains run from Bologna to Pescara, stopping at Rimini, Pesaro, Ancona, San Benedetto del Tronto.

Taking your own car (a three-day drive from the UK) is only an option for a long visit.

Details of local buses are given with the walks.

Umbria and the Marche offer a unique and unforgettable walking experience. Buy our guidebook to walking in Umbria and the Marche and find your perfect trails to explore in this beautiful part of Italy.