Now that we’ve finally got our holiday home in Collioure sorted out we’ve been able to make time to enjoy more walking in the Pyrenees. Recently we revisited another of our favourite walks in the Eastern Pyrenees, Walk 2 in Landscapes of the Pyrenees. One important piece of advice. Don’t think of hiking inland in the Albères (the mountains between the coast and Le Perthus) in August. It’s just too hot and there are few water sources. But along the coast is another matter. It’s always a few degrees cooler and there’s usually a breeze.
Mindful of the heat we opted for the shorter version of the walk and took the ferry from Roses to Cala Jóncols, which saves three hours (compared with starting from Cadaqués). The bar right on the beach at Jóncols was just too tempting so we stopped for a drink and the first swim of the day before heading southish for the next large bay, Cala Montjoi. Swim number two.
This is about as wild a coastline as you can find in mainland Spain and the section from Montjoi to the outskirts of Roses is a real gem. The coastal path (the GR92) hugs the low cliffs, winding its way between shady umbrella pines, and dropping down to little coves, quiet even in high season. We passed through Cala Rostella without getting wet but by the time we reached Cala Murtra the sun was almost overhead. Swim number three. By the way, Cala Murtra is clothing optional – whether or not you dare is up to you.
After a couple of hours of hiking and three more of swimming and lounging on the beaches we rounded Punta Falconera and saw civilisation ahead. Buts that’s not the end of the adventure because there are two more great beaches still to go, L’Almadrava and Canyelles, albeit they’re backed by houses and hotels. Back in Roses, as we sipped long, cool drinks by the marina we agreed there could be no finer walk for a summer’s day.
Paul and Chrissie are making their studio in Collioure available to Landscapes readers at a discount of 10%. Just mention Landscapes when making your booking. You can see full details at http://colliourestudio.com
Photo: Looking back to Cala Jóncols from the path to Cala Montjoi (copyright Mike Lockwood, from Landscapes of the Costa Brava and Barcelona)