Walking in Eastern Crete
£13.00
55 long and short walks and 11 car tours
by Jonnie Godfrey and Elizabeth Karslake, revised by Sunflower Books
A guidebook to walking on the Greek island Crete, featuring 55 of the best long and short day walks. We cover the east of the island: the area around Agios Nikolaos – east to Zakros and south to the coast, showing trekking routes of varying difficulty, all of which are mapped in detail.
Many of the hikes are circular, taking in beautiful old donkey trails, gorges and timeless villages populated with friendly locals.
This guide also includes 11 car tours, two touring maps covering the whole island, plans of Agios Nikolaos and Iraklion, a description of the Samaria Gorge trek as a day excursion from the east by coach and free downloadable GPS tracks.
When to go: The best months for hiking in Crete are April to June, September or October.
Printed book: £15.99 / PDF ebook: £13.00
This new 6th edition has been thoroughly revised on the ground post pandemic – just a few months prior to publication and there is also a description of a new walk to a Minoan peak sanctuary near Sitia and a lovely, uncrowded beach.
The printed maps show waypoints, and free downloadable GPS tracks are available for all the walks. Colour coding on the Contents page enables you to see at a glance the grading of various treks.
Whether you walk, drive or picnic in eastern Crete, the mountains will be your constant companions, changing colour and mood from dawn to dusk, as you move through them, round them and over them. You cannot fail to feel their dramatic attraction.
The stunning colours and heady scent of flowers and herbs, tucked into rough ground or splashed across a hillside, the warm-sounding buzz of hovering bees, and the massed band of a thousand cicadas will all leave a lasting impression – the ‘special effects’ of the total scene.
You may share this rural bliss only with a solitary shepherd, his flocks and dogs, as you walk the hillsides of eastern Crete. Greeks, on the whole, don’t walk — unless they have to for their day’s labour. So be prepared for incredulous looks from the townspeople and faint smiles from the villagers!
If you are relying on public transport, opt for Agios Nikolaos. There is a wide choice of all grades of accommodation and plenty of buses in all directions.
11 car tours, 55 long and short walks, many picnic suggestions
160 pages + two touring maps covering both western Crete and eastern Crete; plans of Agios Nikolaos and Iraklion; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
6th ed, 2023; ISBN 978185691-547-2
UK retail price £15.99 / USA retail price $21.00 / euro €17,50
Table of contents
Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Recommended reading 6
Getting about 7
Plans of Iraklion and Agios Nikolaos 8
Picnicking and a country code 10
Touring 12
Some points worth noting 13
1 THE NORTH AND SOUTH COASTS 14
Agios Nikolaos • Gournia • Pahia Ammos • Sitia • Piskokefalo • Lithines • Ierapetra • Episkopi • Agios Nikolaos
2 THE FAR EAST AND KATO ZAKROS 19
Agios Nikolaos • Sitia • Toplou Monastery • Vai • Palekastro • Kato Zakros • Sitia • Agios Nikolaos
3 UP INTO THE HILLS 22
Agios Nikolaos • Kalo Horio • Kalamafka • Anatoli • Gra Ligia • Ierapetra • Episkopi • Agios Nikolaos
4 A MINOAN ODYSSEY 24
Agios Nikolaos • Malia • (Iraklion) • Gortys • Agii Deka • Festos • Matala • Agii Deka • Houdetsi • (Knossos) • Agios Nikolaos
5 THE AGIOS IOANNIS PENINSULA 28
Agios Nikolaos • Elounda • Plaka • Vrouhas • Loumas • Skinias • Karidi • Pines • Agios Nikolaos
6 FROM HILL VILLAGE TO SHEPHERD
COMMUNITY 31
Agios Nikolaos • Kritsa • Katharon Plateau • Agios Nikolaos
7 THE LASITHI PLATEAU 34
Agios Nikolaos • Neapolis • Mesa Potami • Psychro • Krasi • Mohos • Malia • Agios Nikolaos
8 A CENTRAL SWEEP 38
Agios Nikolaos • Hersonisos • Kasteli • Panagia • ‘Embaros • Ano Viannos • Kato Symi • Ierapetra • Agios Nikolaos
9 THE CRETAN COUNTRYSIDE 40
Agios Nikolaos • Kritsa • Kroustas • Kalo Horio • Agios Nikolaos
10 KNOSSOS AND INLAND VILLAGES 42
Agios Nikolaos • (Iraklion) • Knossos • Arhanes • Vathypetro • Kasteli • Agios Nikolaos
11 TO THE WEST 44
Agios Nikolaos • (Iraklion) • Rethimnon • Hania • Agios Nikolaos
Walking (see explanation of symbols on pages 42-43) 46
Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 47
Things that bite or sting 48
What to take 49
Where to stay 50
Walkers’ checklist 50
Weather 51
Greek for walkers 52
Organisation of the walks 53
THE WALKS
1 Kritsa • Lato • Tapes • Kritsa 55
2 Kritsa Gorge 59
3 Mardati • Kroustas • Kritsa 56
4 From Kroustas to Kalo Horio 65
5 From Kalamafka to Kroustas 68
6 ‘Big’ Spinalonga Island 71
7 Agios Ioannis Point 73
8 From Pines to Elounda 76
9 From Vasiliki to Episkopi 78
10 Episkopi • Agios Ioannis • Agia Fotia 81
11 From Sfaka to Tourloti 85
12 Kavousi • Thripti • Monastiraki 89
13 Ha Gorge 94
14 Stavromenos 96
15 Mesonas Gorge 98
16 Richtis Gorge 102
17 From Zakros to Agios Georgios 105
18 Zakros • Valley of the Dead • Kato Zakros 108
19 Bramiana Reservoir 111
20 Pefki Gorge 113
21 Limnes • Houmeriakos • Vrises • Limnes 116
22 Lasithi • Tapes • Kritsa 119
23 Crossing the Lasithi Plateau 123
24 From Tzermiado to Vrahasi 128
25 Karfi Circuit 134
26 Tzermiado • Kera • Gonies 137
27 Roza Gorge 141
28 Mournies • Mithi • Christos • Males 144
29 Mithi • Metaxohori • Sarakina Gorge (entrance) • Mithi 149
30 Samaria Gorge from Agios Nikolaos 155
Bus timetables 157
Index of geographical names 159
Fold-out touring maps of Eastern and Western Crete inside back cover
Line drawings of island flora 139
Agía Fotiá 18, 81, 82-3, 84, TT10
Agía Triáda 26
Agía Varvára 25, TT19, TT20
Agii Déka 25, 27, TT19, TT20
Agios Geórgios (chapel near Zákros), 105, 106, 107
Agios Geórgios (chapel above Vrahási) 130-1, 133
Agios Ioánnis (village) 81, 82-3, 84
Agios Ioánnis Peninsula (Acra Agios Ioánnis) 28, 73, 74, 74, 75
Agios Nikólaos 14, 19, 22, 24, 28, 31, 34, 38, 40, 43, 44, 50, 155
Town plan 8
Bus timetables TT1-TT8, TT13-15
Agios Stéfanos 113, 114
Ambelos
Valley and Gorge 136, 137, 139, 140-1, 142, 143
Pass 124-5, 135, 137, 138, 139, 142
Amigdali 35, 120-1
Análipsi 18, 114
Anatolí 22
Ano Viánnos 34, TT14
Avdéliako (also called Katharon) 33
Azória 90, 99, 101
Bramiana Reservoir 18, 23, 111, 111, 112
Christós 144, 146, 147, 150
Diktaíon (‘Dikti’) Cave 32, 123, 124-5, TT4, TT16, TT25
Dikti Mountains 18, 26, 39, 79, 80
Eloúnda 28, 30, 71, 72, 76, 77, TT2, TT7
Episkopí 16, 18, 23, 79, 80, 81, 82-3, TT5
Exo Moulianá 16, 102, TT6
Exo Potámi 35, 130-1, TT4
Féstos 26, TT19
Fodéle 44
Galíni 18, 82-3, TT10
Goníes 137, 140, 141, 142, 143
Górtys 25, TT19, TT20, TT21
Gourniá 14, 18, TT5, TT6, TT14, TT15
Grá Ligiá 39, TT14
Ha Gorge 17, 18, 23, 90, 92, 93, 94, 95, cover
Hamiló 55, 56, 59
Haniá 45
Havgas Gorge 90, 98, 99
Hersónisos 24, 38, 43, TT1, TT12, TT25
Hióna Beach 152, 153, 154
Hóra Sfakión 131, 132
Houdétsi 27, 43
Houmeriákos 116, 117, 117, 118
Ierápetra 18, 39, TT5, TT10, TT14, TT22, TT23, TT24
Iráklion 27, 43, 44
Town plan 8-9
Bus timetables TT1, TT8, TT12-TT21, TT24
Istrón 14, 66-7, TT5, TT6
Kalamáfka 22, 68, 70
Kaló Horió 14, 22, 41, 65, 66, 66-7, TT5, TT6
Kárfi (mountain) 130-1, 134, 135, 136, 137, 142
Karídi 29
Kastéli 38, 43
Kástro 81, 82
Katharón Plateau 32-3, 50, 53
Káto Amigdáli 35, TT4, TT16
Káto Eloúnda 72, 76
Káto Goúves 24, TT1
Káto Horió 18
Káto Loúmas 28
Káto Metóhi 36,
Káto Pinés 51, 76, 77
Káto S ́ymi 39
Káto Viánnos 34, TT24
Káto Zákros 21, 108, 109, 110, TT11
Katós 64, 66
Kavoúsi 15, 18, 89, 90, 90, 98, 99, 99, 101, TT6, TT8
Kefalavrísi 23, 68, 69, 70
Kerá 135, 136, 137, 138, 141, 142, 142
Kliros (mountain) 91, 98, 99, 99, 101
Knossós 27, 42, 43
Kolokíthia 27, 63
Krási 36
Kritsá 31, 32, 40, 50, 55, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 64, 119, 122, TT3
Gorge 56, 58, 59, 60, 61
Kroústas 40, 56, 59, 62-3, 64, 65, 66-7, 67, 68, 70
Lasíthi Plateau 1, 33, 34-5, 119, 120-1, 123, 124-5, 126-7, 129, 130-1, 134, 135, 137, 142, TT4, TT16, TT25
Lató 32, 55, 56, 57, 59
Límnes 34, 116, 117, 118
Makrigialós 18, 113, 114, 115, TT10, TT22
Máles 144, 146, 148, 150
Mália 24, 36, 43, TT1, TT12, TT25
Mardáti 32, 62, 63, 64, 65, TT3
Mátala 25, 26, TT1, TT21, TT25
Mavrikianó 76, 77
Mavrokambos Plateau 105, 106, 106-7
Mésa Lasíthi 36, 120-1, 124-5, TT4
Mésa Moulianá 16, TT6
Mésa Potámi 35, 130-1, TT4
Mesara Plain 25, 27
Mesónas Gorge 98, 99, 100, 101
Metaxohóri 144, 146, 147, 148, 149, 150
Mílatos (cave) 36
Míres 24, TT19
Mirsíni 15, TT6
Míthi 144, 146, 149, 150, 151
Móhlos 16
Mohós 36
Monastiráki 18, 23, 89, 90, 92, 93, 94, 95, TT5
Mourniés 144, 146, 150, 147, TT14
Néa Anatolí 39, TT16
Neápolis 34, 43, 117, TT1, TT4, TT8, TT13, TT15
Nísimos Plateau 128, 130-1, 132, 134-5, 135, 136, 137, 142
Oloús 71, 72
Omalós 131
Orno Mountains 14-5, 54, 86, 98, 99
Pahiá Ammos 14, TT5, TT6, TT15
Palékastro 19, 21, 152, 153, TT9, TT11
Panagía 38, 39
Panagía Kéra 32, 40-1, 56, 59, 64
Páno Eloúnda 30, 76
Papadianá 79, 82-3
Péfki 113, 114, 115
Gorge 113, 114, 114, 115
Péfkos 39, TT14
Petsofás 152, 153, 153
Pezá 27, 43
Pírgos 41
Piskokéfalo 17
Pitsídia 26
Pláka 28, 29, 73, 74, 75, TT7
Plátanos (village above Sfaka) 86, 87, 88
Pláti 36, TT4, TT16
Prína 41
Psychró 36, 124-5, TT4, TT16
Réthimnon 44-5
Richtis Gorge 16, 102, 103, 104
Rousakiana 35, 36, 130-1
Rousolakos 152, 153, 154
Roza Gorge 137, 140, 140-1, 142, 143
Samariá Gorge 155, 156
Sarakína Gorge 145, 146, 149, 150, 151
Seléna Mountains 130-1, 132
Selinári 24, 36, TT1, TT8, TT13
Sfáka 14-5, 16, 85, 86, 87
Sitía 19, TT6, TT8-11, TT15
Spinalónga 71, 72, 72, 74
Stavroménos (mountain near Thriptí) 18, 96, 97, 96-7
Stóli 27
Tápes 53, 56, 58, 59, 119, 120-1, 122
Thriptí 16, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 96, 97, 98
Toploú Monastery 19, 21
Tourlotí 15, 85, 86, 87, 88, TT6
Tsamántis 91, 98, 99, 101
Tzermiádo 32, 123, 124-5,127, 128, 130-1, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 141, 142, TT4, TT16, TT25
Vái 19, 20, TT9
Valley of the Dead see Zakros Gorge
Vasilikí 18, 78, 79, 79, 80, TT5
Vath ́ypetro 43
Viánnos Omalós 34
Vrahási 36, 43, 128, 130-1, 133, TT1, TT8
Vríses 34, 116, 117, 118
Vroúhas 28, 73, 74, 75
Xeropótamos Gorge 110
Zákros 21, 105, 106, 107, 108, 110
Gorge (Valley of the Dead) 108, 109, 110
Eastern Crete, 5th Edition (2017); updated 30/5/22
Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in Eastern Crete given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price).
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.
Car tour 2: The Natural History and Water Mill museums at Zakros are now open daily except Mondays from 11.00-18.00.
Car tour 6: We were fortunate enough to take this drive on a clear day in early May and discovered a new viewpoint. While we were there, the shepherds were bringing their goats up to Katharon for the summer, exactly as Jonnie and Liz said – so we were able to see a ‘transhumance’, Cretan-style – lorryload after lorryload of the delightful creatures, travelling at speed. On our other drives, to and from walks, we were stopped by hundreds of sheep and goats travelling the roads under hoof-power. (Sunflower, 5/22)
Walks 17, 18: The Natural History and Water Mill museums at Zakros are now open daily except Mondays from 11.00-18.00.
Walk 19: The water level in the Bramiana Reservoir has been raised, so that it is no longer possible to use the footpaths. But the walk is even lovelier, and there are a few places to get to the water’s edge. (Sunflower, 5/22)
Walk 20: This walk (including Stavromenos) is now part of the E4, but the E4 descends via Aspropotamos at Waypoint 7. (Sunflower, 4/17)
GPS files for use with Landscapes of Eastern Crete:
Download GPS files for Landscapes of Eastern Crete
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