Walking in La Gomera
£10.00
Landscapes of LA GOMERA and SOUTHERN TENERIFE: walks and car tours
by Noel Rochford
This new 8th edition of La Gomera and Southern Tenerife has been carefully revised on the ground just a few months prior to publication. The number of walks has been increased by 30%, and all the maps have been redrawn using OpenStreetMap source material with GPS tracking. The printed maps show waypoints, and free downloadable GPS tracks are available for all the walks. Colour coding on the Contents page enables you to see at a glance the grading of various walks.
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This book is for those staying on La Gomera or in the south of Tenerife (within easy reach of the Gomera ferry). Since the two islands are just a 35-minute ferry ride apart, the book covers walks and tours on both. There are car tours (with picnic suggestions) ranging all over both islands, with pull-out touring maps and plans for the larger conurbations.
Walks are described throughout the whole of La Gomera, while for Tenerife there are walks in the south and west. All walks are illustrated with newly drawn 1:50,000 topo maps based on OpenStreet mapping. GPS tracks are available for all the walks, and there are satnav coordinates to the starting points. All ‘official’ signposted and waymarked government trails have been highlighted and numbered on the walking maps – a real plus: if a walker comes across a signpost for a route not fully described in Noel’s text, it can still be used as a short- (or long-!)cut. (Note: those going to Tenerife for a long walking holiday, who will be based in the south, should ideally have this book and Landscapes of Tenerife.)
Area covered: The book is divided into two parts. The major emphasis is on exploring the whole of La Gomera by car or on foot. But the Tenerife section of the book is also packed with suggestions: there are tours (from Playa de las Américas/Los Cristianos) covering the whole of Tenerife by car, as well as the best walking in Tenerife’s south and west.
The best months for walking on La Gomera and Tenerife are October to June.
For La Gomera, convenient bus services for walks run from Valle Gran Rey, Playa de Santiago and San Sebastián. For Southern Tenerife, the Playa de las Américas/Los Cristianos area makes the best centre.
for La Gomera: 2 car tours, 50 long and short walks; for Tenerife: 4 car tours covering the whole of Tenerife, 20 long and short walks
144 pages + 2 touring maps (La Gomera and Tenerife); plans of San Sebastián (La Gomera), Playa de las Américas, Los Cristianos (Tenerife)
8th ed, 2018; ISBN 978-1-85691-504-5; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $18.00
Table of contents:
Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Useful books 6
Getting about 7
TOURING
TOUR 1: LAS CAÑADAS AND THE NORTHWEST (TENERIFE) 9
Playa de las Américas · Vilaflor · Las Cañadas · La Orotava · Puerto de la Cruz · Icod de los Vinos · Buenavista · Punta de Teno · Masca · Santiago del Teide · Los Gigantes · San Juan · Playa de las Américas
TOUR 2: THE CUMBRE AND THE SUN-BAKED SOUTH (TENERIFE) 14
Playa de las Américas · Guía de Isora · Las Cañadas · El Portillo · Güimar · Arico · Granadilla · Playa de las Américas
TOUR 3: QUIET CORNERS OF THE NORTHEAST (TENERIFE) 17
Playa de las Américas · Tacoronte · Bajamar · Punta del Hidalgo · Cruz del Carmen · Las Carboneras · Taborno · Pico del Inglés ·La Laguna · Playa de las Américas
TOUR 4: BUCOLIC CHARMS OF THE RUGGED ANAGA (TENERIFE) 20
Playa de las Américas · Pico del Inglés · Roque Negro · El Bailadero · Chamorga · Taganana · Almáciga · Benijo · San Andrés · Igueste · Santa Cruz · Playa de las Américas
TOUR 5: LA GOMERA’S SOUTHERN LANDSCAPES 22
Valle Gran Rey · Arure · Las Hayas · Chipude · Alajeró · Playa de Santiago · San Sebastián · El Cedro · Los Roques · Laguna Grande · Valle Gran Rey
TOUR 6: LA GOMERA’S VERDANT NORTH 29
Valle Gran Rey · Las Hayas · Laguna Grande · Hermigua · Agulo · Garajonay National Park Visitors’ Centre · Vallehermoso · Arure · Valle Gran Rey
Walking 32
Grading, signposting/waymarking, maps, GPS 33
Dogs — and other nuisances 35
Weather 35
Where to stay 36
What to take 37
Country code for walkers and motorists 38
Spanish for walkers 39
Walkers’ checklist 40
Organisation of the walks 41
WALKS ON TENERIFE
1 Montaña Guaza 42
2 Roque del Conde 44
3 Barranco del Infierno 46
4 From La Escalona to Adeje 48
5 The Suárez-Topo circuit 51
6 Chavao Trail and fire-watch tower 53
7 Four walks to the Paisaje Lunar 55
8 The Guergues Trail 59
9 Barranco de Masca 61
WALKS ON LA GOMERA (n grade; see page 33)
10 Barranco de Arure 63
11 From Valle Gran Rey to Arure 65
12 From Arure to Valle Gran Rey 67
13 Taguluche circuit via the GR 132 68
14 Tough Taguluche circuit 71
15 Arure • Las Hayas • Los Granados 72
16 Jardín de Las Creces from Las Hayas 75
17 Raso de la Bruma circuit 76
18 Chipude • NS de Guadalupe • Valle Gran Rey 77
19 Circuit from Chipude via NS de Guadalupe and El Cercado 79
20 Barranco de Argaga 80
21 From Lomo del Balo to Chipude 82
22 La Fortaleza 84
23 Cruce de La Zarcita • El Cedro • Garajonay • Chipude 86
24 El Cedro circuit from Las Mimbreras 89
25 From Targa to Playa de Santiago 91
26 Barranco de Guarimiar circuit 93
27 Garajonay circuit from Imada 96
28 Barranco de Benchijigua circuit 97
29 Barranco de Azadoe circuit 100
30 Barranco de Santiago 101
31 Degollada de Peraza circuit via La Laja and Roque de Agando 103
32 Circuit from Jerduñe via Seima and the Casas de Contrera 105
33 From San Sebastián to Playa de Santiago 108
34 From Las Casetas to San Sebastián 112
35 Circuit to the Cuevas Blancas 115
36 From Hermigua to Las Casetas via Enchereda 117
37 El Palmar circuit from Hermigua 119
38 Punta San Lorenzo 120
39 El Cedro Circuit from Hermigua 121
40 From Agulo to Vallehermoso 124
41 Circuit from Agulo to the Centro de Visitantes and Mirador de Abrante 128
42 La Meseta circuit from Vallehermoso 130
43 Circuit from Vallehermoso to the Ermita Santa Clara and Playa de Vallehermoso 133
44 Presa de Meriga 136
Appendix (Tourist information, Timetables) 137
Index 142
Island maps and town plans inside back cover
Drawings of island flora 40, 50, 74, 75
Geographical names only are included here; for non-geographical entries, see Contents, page 3. A page number in italics indicates a map, in bold type a photograph, in bold italics both map and photo. All of these may be in addition to a text reference on the same page. The approximate pronunciation of village names is shown. (T) Tenerife; (G) La Gomera. For timetable index see page 137.
El Cabrito (G) 106, 108-9, 110
El Cedro (G) (Ayl Say-droh) 21, 25, 26, 27, 28, 86, 87, 88-9, 90, 121, 123, 128
El Cercado (G) (Ayl Thair-kah-doh) 22, 66, 73, 74, 77, 78, 79, 82, 83, 85, 88-9
El Guro (G) (Ayl Gu-roh) 63, 64, 67, 78, 81
El Palmar (G) (Ayl Pahlmahr) 118, 119; (T) 17
El Portillo (T) 12, 15
El Rumbazo (G) (Ayl Roombah-thoh) 24, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 97, 98, 99, 102
El Sombrero (G) 22-3, 24
El Teide (T) 5, 7, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 23, 26, 27, 29, 31, 36, 50, 53, 60, 87, 106, 128, 133, cover
El Teón (G) (Ayl Tee-ohn) 124-5, 127
Embalse (reservoir) (Aymbahl-say)
de Agulo 128, 129
de Amalahuigue (G) 32, 112-3, 118, 120-1
de Arure 22, 72, 74
de la Encantadora (G) 130, 131, 132
de los Tiles 121, 122
Enchereda (G) (En-shay-ray-dah) 112, 113, 116, 117, 118
Epina (G) (Ay-pee-nah) 27, 30, 31, 39, 130, 132
Ermita (chapel) (Ehr-meetah) de las Nieves (G) 21, 24, 25, 104
de los Reyes (G) 64, 67, 81
de San Juan (G) 92, 97, 98, 100, 101, 102
del Santo (G) see under Mirador
Nuestra Señora de Coromoto (G) 134
Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (G) 77, 78, 79, 80, 81
Nuestra Señora de Lourdes (G) 88-9, 90
Santa Clara (G) 132, 133, 134, 135
Virgen del Buen Viaje (G) 67, 70-1
Fasnia (T) (Fahs-nya) 16
Forestal Park (T) 16
Garachico (T) (Gah-rahshe-koh) 13
Garajonay (and National Park) (G) 25, 26, 27, 29, 34, 36, 75, 86, 87, 88-9, 90, 92, 96, 124, 126, 128
Gerián (G) (Jeh-ree-ahn) 80, 81
Granadilla (T) (Grah-nahdeel-yah) 15, 16, 36
Guarimiar (G) (Goo-ahr-eemee-ahr) 8, 23, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 99, 100
Guergues, Finca de (T) 59, 60
Guía de Isora (T) (Gee-ah day Ee-so-rah) 15
Güimar (T) (Gwee-mahr) 15, 16
Hermigua (G) (Air-meegah) 24, 25, 27, 28, 37, 86, 90, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123
Icod de los Vinos (T) (Eekod day lohs Bee-nohs) 10, 12, 13
Ifonche (T) (Ee-fohn-shay) 10, 11, 48-9, 50, 51
Igualero (G) 88-9, 96
Igueste (T) (Ee-gwes-tay) 20
Imada (G) (Ee-mah-dah) 23, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100
Jardín de las Creces (G) 24, 27, 31, 74, 75, 76, 111, 131
Jerduñe (G) (Hair-doonyay) 105, 106, 107
Juego de Bolas 34, 124, 126, 128, 129, 136
La Cabezada (T) 59, 60
La Caldera (T) 10, 12
La Calera (G) (Lah Kah-layrah) 64, 65, 66, 67, 78, 81
La Crucita (T) 15, 16
La Escalona (T) (Lah Eskah-loh-nah) 11, 48-9
La Fortaleza (G) 21, 22, 23, 27, 28, 74, 82, 84-5
La Gerode (G) 112-3, 115
La Laguna (T) (Lah Lahgoo-nah) 17, 18, 19
La Laja (G) (Lah Lah-hah) 103, 104
La Mérica (G) 64, 65, 66, 67
La Meseta (G) 130, 131
La Orotava (T) (Lah Oh-rohtah-vah) 5, 10, 12
La Palmita, La (G) (Lah Pahl-mee-tah) 29, 124, 126, 128, 129
La Vizcaína (G) (Lah Beeskay-ee-nah) 73, 74, 75, 77, 78, 81, 82, 83
Laguna Grande (G) 21, 26, 27, 29, 31, 87, 126, 136
Las Bodegas (T) (Lahs Bohday-gahs) 20
Las Cañadas (National Park, Visitors’ Centre, Parador, T) 5, 10, 11, 13, 15, 52, 54, 55, 57
Las Canteras (T) (Lahs Kahn-tay-rahs) 18
Las Carboneras (T) (lahs
Kahr-boh-nay-rahs) 18
Las Casetas (G) 25, 112-3, 115, 116, 117, 118
Las Hayas (G) (Lahs Aieahs) 21, 22, 26, 27, 65, 66, 68, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 131
Las Lajas (T) 10, 11, 24, 25, 26, 49, 103, 104
Las Mimbreras (G) 26, 86, 87, 88-9, 90
Las Rosas (G) (Lahs Rohsahs) 29, 124, 126, 128, 129
Lo del Gato (G) (Lo dayl
Gah-toh) 92, 97, 98, 100, 101, 102
Lomo Blanco (T) 11
Lomo del Balo (G) (Lohmoh dayl Bah-loh) 74, 83
Los Aceviños (G) (Lohs Ahsay-been-yohs) 87, 89
Los Azulejos (T) 11
Los Cristianos (T) (Lohs Krees-t’yan-ohs) 5, 6, 9, 35, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 48, 50, 51, 53, 55, 60
town plan touring map
Los Descansaderos (G) (Lohs Dehs-kan-sah-dayrohs) 74, 78, 82, 83
Los Gigantes (T) (Lohs Heegahn-tays) 10, 14, 50, 60
Los Granados (G ) (Lohs Grah-nah-dohs) 63, 67, 72, 73, 74, 81
Los Manantiales (G) (Lohs Mahn-ahn-tee-ahl-ays) 77, 79, 88-9
Los Pajares (T) 59, 60
Los Roques (G) 21, 27, 86, 93, 103, 104, 112
Los Silos (T) (Lohs Seelohs) 13
Masca (T) (Mahs-kah) 5, 10, 14, 32, 59, 60, 61, 62
Mériga (G) 27, 29, 136
Mirador (viewpoint) (Meerah-door)
Acequía Larga (T) 46, 47, 48-9
Buenavista (G) 132, 135
Chimague and Chipeque 16
Cruz del Carmen (T) 19
de Abrante (G) 29, 124-5, 126, 128, 129
de Agulo (G) 128, 129
de Igualero (G) 22
de La Laja (G) 103, 104, 105
de las Chamucadas (T) 19
de los Manaderos (G) 25, 112-3, 115, 118
de San Pedro (T) 12
de Tajaque (G) 26, 88-9, 92, 101
del Drago (G) 23
El Bailadero (G) 20
El Palmarejo (G) 21
El Rejo (G) 25, 28
Ermita del Santo (G) 21, 22, 27, 30, 31, 64, 65, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71
La Tarta (T) 15
Las Narices del Teide (T) 15, 52, 53, 54
Minas de San José (T) 11
Pico del Inglés (T) 18, 19
Piedra la Rosa (T) 12
Pino Gordo (T) 11
Rosa de las Piedras (G) 27, 29, 124-5, 126
Tabonal (T) 11
Montaña (mountain)
de Guajara (T) 10, 15, 56-7, 58
del Cedro (T) 52, 54
Guaza (T) 42, 43
Monte Los Frailes (T) 16
Monteforte (G) see Hermigua
Paisaje Lunar (Los Escurriales; T) 5, 11, 32-3, 37, 55, 56-7, 58
Pajarito (G) 21, 26, 28, 86, 88-9, 92, 93, 94, 96, 97, 100
Pastrana (G) (Pahs-trahnah) 21, 24, 92, 94, 98, 101, 102
Pavón (G) (Pah-bohn) 2, 78, 84, 85, 88-9
Pico Viejo (T) 15, 53, 54
Piedras Amarillas (T) 10, 11, 15, 56-7
Pista Madre del Agua (T) 11, 56-7, 58
Playa (beach) (Ply-yah)
de Argarga (G) 81
de la Caleta (G) 118, 120
de la Guancha (G) 108-9
de Vallehermoso (G) 30, 132, 133, 135
del Cabrito (G) 108-9
Playa de las Américas (T) (Ply-yah day lahs Ahmay-ree-kahs) 9, 10, 15, 17, 19
town plan touring map
Playa de Masca 60, 61, 62
Playa de Santiago (G) (Plyyah day Sahn-tee-ahgoh) 23, 35, 37, 91, 92, 102, 108-9
Presa (reservoir)(Pray-sah)
de los Gallos 74
de Mériga 136
Puerto de la Cruz (T) (Pooair-toh day lah Krooth) 10, 12
Punta (point) (Poon-tah)
de San Lorenzo (G) 118, 120
de Teno (T) 10, 13, 14
del Fraile (T) 13
Punta del Hidalgo (T) (Poon-tah dayl Ee-dahlgoh) 18
Raso de la Bruma (G) 27, 31, 74, 76, 130
River, River bed see Barranco
Roque (rock) (Roh-kay)
Carmona (G) 7, 88-9, 101, 104, cover
de Agando (G) 26, 28, 87, 88-9, 92, 93, 94, 98, 101, 102, 103, 104
de las Animas (T) 20
de la Zarcita (G) 103, 104
de Ojila (G) 88-9, 104
de San Pedro (G) 121
de Taborno (T) 18
del Conde (T) 44, 45, 51
El Cano (G) 30, 127, 131, 132, 134
Roque de las Bodegas (T) 20
Roque Negro (T) 22
Roques (rocks) (roh-kays)
de García (T) 11, 12
del Cedro (T) 52, 54
Rosa de las Piedras (G)
(Roh-sah day lahs Peeay-drahs) 27, 29, 124-5, 126
San Andrés (T) (Sahn Ahndrays) 19, 20
San Juan (T) (San Hu-an) 14
San Juan de la Rambla (T) (San Hu-an day lah Rahm-blah) 12
San Sebastián (G) (Sahn Say-bahs-t’yan) 7, 13, 21, 23, 24, 26, 37, 84, 93, 101, 103, 105, 108, 111, 112-3, 114, 115, 117, 119, 121, 124, 128, 141
town plan touring map
Santa Cruz (T) (Sahn-tah crooth) 16, 17, 19, 20, 36
Santiago del Teide (T) (Sahn-tee-ah-goh dayl Tay-ee-day) 10, 14, 59
Seima (G) (Say-ee-mah) 105, 106, 107, 108-9, 110
Taborno (T) (Tah-bohrnoh) 17, 18
Tacalcuse (G) 106, 107
Taco (G) (Tah-koh) 24, 91, 92, 102
Tacoronte (T) (Tah-kohrohn– tay) 17
Taganana (T) (Tah-gahnah-nah) 19, 20
Taguluche (Tah-goo-loochay) (G; Hermigua) 118, 119; (G; Valle Gran Rey) 1, 22, 31, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70-1
Tamagarda (G) (Tah-mahgahr-dah) 30
Tamaimo (T) (Tah-my-moh) 14
Targa (G) (Tahr-gah) 21, 23, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 102
Tegueste (T) (Tay-gwaystay) 18, 19
Tejina (T) (Tay-hee-nah) 17, 18
Teno Alto (T) (Tay-noh Ahltoh) 14
Valle Gran Rey (G) (Bahlyay Grahn Ray) 9, 21, 26, 27, 31, 35, 37, 41, 63, 65, 66, 67, 68, 72-3, 74, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 84, 86, 127, 133
Vallehermoso (G) (Bahl-yayhair-moh-soh) 27, 29, 30, 76, 124, 125, 127, 128, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135
Vilaflor (T) (Bee-lah-floor) 10, 11, 48, 55, 56-7, 58
Vueltas (G) 65, 66, 67, 80, 81
La Gomera and Southern Tenerife, 8th edition (January 2018); updated 10/1/2018
Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on La Gomera and in the south of Tenerife given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.
There are no updates as yet for this 8th edition. Below are updates to the 7th edition, published in 2016. We would, however, strongly advise that you upgrade to the 8th edition to take advantage of better maps and GPS tracks.
Southern Tenerife
Motorways: The TF1 has been extended as far as Santiago del Teide. However, it is a divided motorway only as far as 8km north of Adeje. From there to Santiago it is a three lane road: two lanes north and one south. We found it potentially dangerous driving: there are no passing places in the southbound lane, so if a slow driver is leading a long queue, impatient drivers behind may be tempted to cross the solid line and drive into oncoming northbound traffic… The TF5 has been opened to ‘highway’ standard between El Tanque and Icod de los Vinos.
WALKS
I visited Southern Tenerife in February. We stayed near the airport where there are now more tourist developments. So could you include more walks in the south of Tenerife, especially off the north easterly road to the capital, Santa Cruz? (User, 2/17)
Walk 3 The phone number to book Barranco del Infierno was unobtainable. We booked through the website instead and paid with a credit card. The cost is now 8 Euros each. (User, 2/17)
Walk 4 is now a PR walk and way marked yellow/white (PR TF 71.2). (Sunflower, 1/16) + Short walk After 100metres of the walk we found no signpost to Adeje, faded or otherwise. Suggest you say to turn left off the track, to make it clearer, as the track and the path look very similar at this point. Yellow and white flashes in use instead of the green and white flashes and dots. (User, 2/17)
Walk 5. Page 57, first sentence: we totally missed the left turn off, but we found the correct turn off on our return from a wild goose chase. Could you say that the turn off is more accurately 10-20 metres before the right hand curve. We found the boulder but there are no yellow dots anywhere on it. (User, 2/17)
Walk 16: (a) you have taken 20-25 mins off the time to reach the top of the pass at Targa (now showing 1 hr 25 mins) compared to an earlier edition. My walk timings on other walks is only fractionally more than yours and your original 1 hr 50 mins is much more in line with my timing of the ascent, giving time to admire the views, catch breath and drink water. Anyone timing their walk to catch the bus down might like to bear this in mind and / or not be demoralised by your recent more speedy ascenders!
(b) as an alternative route back to Playa de Santiago, turn right on the road for 50 metres or so after emerging from the ascent, and follow signs left down into the gorge on GR132, passing through Antoncojo and heading towards and beside the airport, and eventually down steps off the cliff on the west side of Santiago – taking 2 hrs from Targa. Neither route down is particularly exciting compared to the climb up! (User, 5/17)
Walk 18: Another really good variation to this walk – which works well as it links with the bus – is to take the bus to Las Toscas (above Playa de Santiago towards San Sebastián) and follow the forestry track to Benchijigua (50 mins-1 hr), then proceed either up or down on route 18. It is a very scenic track and the easier surface allows for looking at the views! (User, 5/17)
Walk 22, Alternative: The official, maintained path from La Gerode is very good and we recommended it. It is vertiginous in places because of the drop into the Barranco de las Casas on the NW side, but no more so than experienced on other described walks. The path is good and well-maintained with wooden railings in places. It does go over bare rock in places, but technically it is considerably easier than the ascent of La Fortaleza (Walk 14). The Cuevas Blancas themselves have been uninhabited for at least three years so there are no yappy dogs or other impediments. For your sandwich lunch, you might find an abandoned chair in a cave! (User, 7/17)
Walk 25: The Mirador de Abrante visitors centre and restaurant has been open for at least three years and is worth a visit for the spectacular views over Agulo from its glass floor. It serves snacks and ice creams as well as full meals. (User, 7/17)
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