Walking in La Gomera

La Gomera and Southern Tenerife, 8th edition (January 2018); updated 04/09/2023

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on La Gomera and in the south of Tenerife given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

GENERAL: I have just returned from a visit to La Gomera and Tenerife. I made extensive use of the above guide (17 walks in all) and found it extremely useful, well up to your normal high standard. I have some comments on some of the walks which I hope will be helpful. (User, 3/22)[See this user’s comments dated 3/22 below)

In August 2023 Tenerife suffered the worst wildfires in 40 years. None of the walks in the book are affected, but it is probably not work taking Car tour 2.

Car tour 1: It’s not possible to drive to the lighthouse at Punta de Teno any day of the week now, but Titsa buses leave from the barrier 3km past Buenavista (as well as Buenavista bus station). They run every hour; price only 1 euro. (Sunflower, 6/23)

Car tour 2: In August 2023 Tenerife suffered the worst wildfires in 40 years. None of the walks in the book are affected, but it is probably not work taking Car tour 2.

WALKS

WALK 3: As described. (User, 3.22)

WALK 6: I think there is an error ref which side you pass the ropey lava. I think it should be left not right side. Also although we found the turn at the 50min point the path disappeared on us as we ascended. Even trying to retrace our steps resulted in us being unable to relocate the path back to the track below so we had a tricky scramble down the hillside and just did the alternative walk instead. Perhaps rock movement and lack of repair has made this part of the walk more difficult to identify. (User, 3/19)

Walk 7:  The Paisaje Lunar is really beautiful inspected up close, but as described only variant d goes close by. There is a path down from the first viewpoint, and a path back up to the second viewpoint, which I recommend taking with the other variants. (User, 3/22)

Walk 8: If it is true, this is important news. The Araza path is closed now). The goat farmer has closed it. (User, 2/20) • Spotting me putting my boots on at the Mirador de Masca, a friendly lady selling souvenirs told me that the landowner had closed the trail more than two years ago (confirming the feedback of a user in 2/20 included in the current update). She said there was a similar walk along the ridge on the other side of the Barranco de Masca, starting from the Mirador de Cruz de Hilda. I did this walk and thought it magnificent. The path goes underneath the north side of the Roque de la Fortaleza and then climbs back up to the ridge, from where there are superb views. The path is well-made all the way to this point, although there is sometimes some exposure. One can finish the walk here and retrace one’s steps, but the path continues down the ridge through terraces to Morro de la Galera, which is an excellent viewpoint. The path is not so clear in this section, but the ridge is broad and the direction clear, so it is not difficult to find one’s way. I recommend deleting the Guergues trail in the next edition and replacing it with this walk. (User 3/22) + In add to the other updates to this walk, it is now not possible to do the Alternative walk to Playa de Masca. Speaking to local boat operators, they have been forbidden by the authorities to drop off or collect anyone at Playa de Masca. Therefore if you get a permit for this walk then you MUST go down and climb back up! (User, 1/10/22)

Walk 9, IMPORTANT: This walk was officially closed for repairs but has now reopened. They have introduced a booking system. It is popular, and one needs to book well in advance. I went online in mid February and there were no slots available before mid April. (User, 3/22) [Sunflower comments on why the barranco has to be closed: The straw which broke the camel’s back was a group of walkers who, despite an orange level weather alert for heavy rain and strong winds, still decided to tackle the Masca Barranco. Reaching Masca Bay they found the jetty damaged and no boats waiting to take them back to the safety of civilisation. There was also a weather alert for wild seas which kept the water taxis in harbour. They were lucky a goatherd was seeing out the storm in the area as they would have attempted to walk back up the ravine, possibly resulting in a more tragic end to this tale. The goatherd advised them to stay put, leading the stranded hikers to a cave where he knew they’d be safe, sharing some of his food and water. The following day the emergency services were able to rescue the walkers from Masca Beach. Later that day the goatherd spotted more hikers in the ravine. Within the following week the authorities announced the closure of Masca Barranco, prohibiting members of the public from entering it until measures were put in place to make it safer. ‘It’s easy to blame this group of walkers for the closure of the ravine. There’s no arguing their actions were irresponsible and not something I’d expect from experienced hikers. But even experienced walkers can underestimate the terrain and weather conditions on Tenerife and other Canary Islands [and Madeira!]. But the fact is the walkers in question were only the latest in a long, long line of people who are ultimately responsible for the closure of the Masca Barranco.’ (from a User, 6/19)]

LA GOMERA – GENERAL: The buses run to service the ferries, so mean mid-morning starts from SS, and either early morning (i.e. pre-breakfast!!) or afternoon starts from VGR or PDS. So, planning walks in the middle of the island is difficult, especially if you are not in a large party to fund taxis. I have also read of buses being full, so walkers stranded away from base. It is a good idea to aim for bus to start then walk to base or circular walks for motorists – which you do largely to be fair. My suggestions would be:
• Walks ending in VGR valley could easily be followed downhill into town via the road in 30-75 minutes if no buses around, with a few bars along the way (walks 15, 18, 21).
• Walk 23 can easily be turned into a circuit by following GR131 from Garajonay to Cruce De La Zarcita was a similar time as scheduled to Chipude.
• Walks ending in PDS can be tackled by bus by taking SS bus to Peraza and following GR131 west to, for example, Roque Agando walk 30 (approx. 1 hour). Walks scheduled from Pajarito are possible by extending the walk for Peraza to Casa Olsen instead, but this would make it around 1 hr 45mins. At least PR131 is very well signed.
• Apparently there is a bus route 8 from VGR to Vallehermoso which isn’t mentioned in your book.
(User, 5/20)

Walk 10: As described. (User, 3/22)

Walks 11 & 12: The Mérica cliffs are spectacular, and I would recommend making more of them, at least as an alternative. Doing Walk 11, I took the first available turnoff to look at the cliffs, and liked them so much that I followed the path near the cliff edge (marked on your map) all the way up to where it rejoined the main path shortly before La Mérica. (User, 3/22)

Walk 13: As described. (User, 3/22)

Walk 15: As described. (User, 3/22)

Walk 16: As described. (User, 3/22)

Walk 19: No obvious problems. I didn’t get the threatened vertigo – I am not 100% immune to this, but no concerns at all. Bar La Candelaria seeming to be long shut, but I used the shop/bar opposite in the plaza, and there was another bar open next to that. (User, 5/20) • As described. (User, 3.22)[The user of 3/22, we find from other comments, is totally vertigo-free. Beware!]

Walk 20: IMPORTANT: This walk is officially closed. Apparently there is a death on this walk every year. Last week there was another, and the authorities have posted a sign that anybody walking this path does so at his/her own risk and is responsible for all the consequences and cost of any rescue, which could be substantial if helicopters are concerned. (Sunflower, 3/19) + News today (15/11/20) that a cliff near the mouth of the barranco collapsed, narrowly missing camper vans below. Best to keep away from this barranco! (Sunflower)

Walk 22: The path has been improved. There were made steps (mostly) or rock steps all the way up to the summit plateau, and no need for scrambling or going on all fours. And on the summit plateau there was a path going round, well marked with stones on either side, that one could have followed easily even in thick La Gomera mist.  (User, 3/22)

Walk 26: As of March 2022 there is one very exposed moment on the path up to Targa. The path has fallen away, and you have to step on a rock and onto a small shelf on the cliff to get across. (User, 3/22)

Walk 27: The path up from Imada wasn’t very clear near the start, but other than that, no problems. The bar in Imada was open that day, which was handy after the walk, but I notice it was shut when we went in the car another day. I have since found it is shut on Fridays, so maybe mention that. (User, 5/20)

Walk 32: If you are starting from the Degollada de Peraza, there is a path from there which joins the main path shortly below the km1 marker and saves walking along the road. If you are arriving by car, you can drive a short distance along the track from the km1 marker (where there is now a signpost) and there is space for several cars. Or there is a further layby a little past the marker on the way to Jerduñe. So there are plenty of parking options. (User, 3/22)

Walk 34: At the end of the walk, watch for house No 39 on your right (not house 49!). From here red-tiled steps take you down to San Sebastián – first touching on the road to the parador, from where they lead diagonally right and down to the church. (Sunflower, based on user’s letter of 2/20)

Walk 35: As described. I went both out and back using the exposed Alternative 2 path, so didn’t walk the Jaragán loop. (User, 3/22)

Walk 37: As described. (User, 3/22)

Walk 38: As described. (User, 3/22)

Walk 39: I reached the steps by the water tank when it starting raining heavily, so went back per the warning. Shame, but given how green El Cedro is it must be a regular occurrence. (User, 5/20) • As described. (User, 3/22)

Walk 40: As described. (User, 3/22)

Walk 43: The descent from the ridge to Playa was tough, but not dangerous if you took care as Noel says. There was a refreshment stand at the Playa, serving cold beer and Canarian potatoes amongst a decent range of food and drink, so well worth highlighting the benefit of a left turn at the bottom of the ridge for 100 yards or so. (User, 5/20) •  I liked the sound of the “truly spectacular view of Los Organos”, so turned off for Chiguere. But I couldn’t find the viewpoint. After the houses I got bogged down in terraces, wire fences and prickly pears. (User, 3/22)

GPS files for use with Walking in Southern Tenerife and La Gomera:

Download GPS files for Walking in Southern Tenerife and La Gomera

iPhone users need a free or paid app to open the zip file and see the files stored inside it. There are a variety of apps that can open zip files on the iPhone, but Zip Viewer is one of the easiest to use – and it is free.