Walking in Lesvos
£10.00
65 long and short walks and 5 car tours
by Brian & Eileen Anderson
A guidebook to walking on the Greek island of Lesvos, featuring 65 of the best long and short day walks.
We cover coastal walks and the interior, including around Mt Ólympos, showing trekking routes of varying difficulty, all of which are mapped in detail.
Many of the hikes on this unspoilt island are circular, with highlights including 7th century BC remains, a petrified forest and chestnut and oak forests.
This guide also includes 5 car tours, 2 touring maps, a plan of Mytilini and free downloadable GPS tracks.
When to go: The best months for walking in Lesvos are April, May, June, September and October.
Print book: £12.99 / PDF book: £10.00
Purchase the complete book as a downloadable PDF using the button below:
This new 4th edition of our guidebook to walking in Lesvos was checked on the ground by the authors a few months prior to publication. They have added quite a few new hikes – generally circular and fairly easy, to cater for people who want to birdwatch or search out orchids.
The maps have mostly been redrawn, with waypoints which correspond to coloured waypoints in the text, and free downloadable GPS tracks are now available for all the treks.
A wonderful walking and bird-watching destination in the Mediterranean, Lesvos offers a stunning combination of natural and man-made landscapes to enjoy on foot or by car.
It is a treasure house of very early ancient remains dating from the 7th century BC and boasts one of the finest natural monuments in Europe, the Petrified Forest, created 20 million years ago.
Cloaked with forests of chestnut and oak, the island becomes a riot of flowers in the spring and is renowned for its wild orchids (as many as 65 species) and with its own special endemic, Ophrys lesbis.
The island’s hills and mountains are riddled with little known ancient trails and cobbled donkey paths, many of which form the walks featured in this new guidebook.
Refreshingly free of high-rise hotels and beach-orientated tourism, Lesvos is seizing an opportunity to rediscover itself through ecotourism in its totally unspoilt countryside.
Fascinating sites, often unprotected, allow you to do your own interpretation. Follow the authors’ footsteps into villages still steeped in an old way of life and into a countryside as beautiful as any in the Mediterranean.
The car tours, too, show off the very best the island has to offer and will take you to some secret places they have discovered.
An excellent guide – Walking in Lesvos was the first of the Sunflower guides I bought (I have since bought several more) and it really made a difference to my holiday in Lesvos. My husband and I did not hire a car on this trip, so we only used the walks but they were fabulous walks, taking in the whole variety of Lesvos scenery, off the beaten track but not difficult to get to, very well described in terms of geographical features along the way (so you don’t get lost), fitness level required and duration of walk. I now buy Sunflower guides for every holiday. (M.Kendrick, Amazon)
The drives and walks in the guide are very detailed and full of interesting and useful information regarding the landscape, buildings, where to stop for picnics and good swimming spots. Even without a car you will be able to get to Mytilene, the capital, by bus and do the Mytilene town walk and some of the museums. We did car tours 2 and 4 and enjoyed them both immensely. Skala Simanimias was particularly charming. The walks using ‘kalderimi’ (old donkey paths) are especially atmospheric. As usual the guide is very reliable. (H.Hogg, Amazon)
East coast
Mytilene – a busy town with plenty of hotels, but not really a resort, and not where holidaymakers choose to stay. It is handy for people arriving and leaving by ferry or just in transit. There are three walks which can be reached using the local bus service, and there is not too much travelling to join walks in the Agiassos area.
Thermi – a small but pleasant resort just north of Mytilene town. There is one walk on the doorstep and, again, the walks around Agiassos are not so far away.
Central area
Molyvos, Petra, Anaxos – these three resorts lie close together on the north coast. Molyvos is full of character and the island’s top resort, but the other two are actually better beach resorts. There are four walks immediately to hand with minimal transport requirements. Another four are spread around the Kalloni area and are fairly handy, as are most of the other walks if you’re prepared to do a little more travelling.
Skala Kallonis – located at the head of the Gulf of Kalloni, this is just about the most centrally placed resort on the island. There are four walks available within a reasonably short distance and good access to most of the other walks.
Vatera – this south coast resort lies close to the mouth of the Gulf of Kalloni. It is best-known for its miles of beach and has two walks actually starting out from the beach. There is another walk close by and it has good access to the Agiassos walks, those from Melinda and those around Kalloni. Other walks are a little further afield, but still easily managed.
Ag Isidoros – another south coast resort, but lying east of Vatera. The Melinda walks are not too far away, and the Agiassos walks are reasonably available. Otherwise there is a fair bit of travelling from this resort.
West
Sigri and Skala Eressou – these two resorts are tucked away in the far west of the island. But this side of the island is fairly remote from the bulk of the walks and the least convenient place to stay. There is just one walk which is close by and after that there is over an hour’s driving to get to next nearest group of walks, so we recommend staying on the east coast or in the central area.
5 car tours, 65 long and short walks, many picnic suggestions
144 pages; 2 touring maps; plan of Mytilini; large-scale (1:50,000 topo maps); free GPS tracks for all the walks
4th edition 2019; ISBN 978-1-85691-522-9; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $18.00
Table of contents
Preface 5
Acknowledgements 8
Getting about 9
Further reading 9
A country code for walkers and motorists 10
TOURING AND PICNICKING
Car tour 1: WAY OUT WEST AND PETRIFIED 14
Figures from history 15
Car tour 2: THE NORTHERN SCENE – MONASTERIES, MONOLITHS AND MARAUDERS 19
Short walks for motorists (Skala Sikaminias) 22
Pentapolis 24
Car tour 3: AGIASSOS AND THE TWO GULFS 25
Cheeses 26
Short walk for motorists: the Kasteli from Agiassos 27
Short walk for motorists: the Pesas Waterfalls 28
Car tour 4: MYTILENE – EASTERN PROMISE 32
Plan of Mytilene 36
Walking tour around Mytilene 37
Car tour 5: A WETLANDS WANDERING 38
Hot springs 39
WALKING
The walks 43
Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 43
Weather 44
Walk wisely 44
Photography 45
Things that bite or sting 45
Where to stay 46
Greek for walkers 47
Organisation of the walks 48
THE WALKS
1 Karini circuit 50
2 Loutra • Koundouroudia • Skala Loutron circuit 53
3 Thermi circuit via Panagia 55
Tower houses 57
4 Lambou Mili • Roman aqueduct • Karini • Lambou Mili 58
5 Circuit from Ag Dimitrios via Agiassos and Karini 61
6 Two circuits from Ag Anargyri 64
7 Circuit from Agiassos via the Sanatorio 67
8 Ascent of Mount Olympos 71
Agiassos • Asomatos • Agiassos — eastern circuit 74
10 Southern ridge circuit from the Sanatorio 76
11 Asomatos mountain circuit 78
12 Ag Anargyri • Asomatos • Ag Anargyri 80
13 Ag Anargyri • saddle above Mixou • Ag Anargyri 83
14 Mixou — Ag Theologos circuit 85
15 Paleohori circuit 87
16 Circuit from Skamnioudi via Lisvori 89
17 Circuit from Vatera via Paleopyrgos and Vrissa 93
Some reptiles and mammals on Lesvos 94
18 Circuit from Vatera via Profitis Ilias and Cape Fokas 97
19 Exploring Molyvos 100
20 Petra • Petri • Molyvos • Petra 103
21 Skala Sikaminias from Eftalou 107
22 Alexander’s circuit 110
23 Circuit from Petra via Lafionas 112
24 Ag Paraskevi • Klopedi Temple • Moni Taxiarchis • Ag Paraskevi 115
25 Moni Mirsiniotis • Moni Limonas • Metochi • Kalloni 118
26 Moni Limonas circuit 121
27 From Anemotia to Skala Kallonis 124
28 Anemotia circuit 127
29 Anaxos to Ambelia Beach 130
30 Skala Eresou (Eressos) circuit 132
Index 135
Bus information 136
Fold-out island map inside back cover
Agia/Agios see Ayia/Ayios
Aï Liás (peak of Mt Taygetus); see Profítis Ilías
Alika 23, 96
Alypa (part of Nyfi) 21, 25
Anavrití 34, 39, 101, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109
Ano Boularií 96
Ano Kastaniá (Vátika) 31
Arcádia Province 5, 6, 7, 26-8, 39, 150
Archángelos (beach) 33
Areópolis 7, 14, 18, 21, 25, 39, 41, 86, 87, 88, 95, 96, 150
Artemisía 14, 16, 55, 57, 58
Ayia Iríni (monastery, Vátika) 33, 146-7, 148, 149
Ayia Kateríni (near Neápoli) 32, 142, 143
Ayia Kyriakí (Máni) 22, 28, 92, 93, 94
Ayia Marína (chapel, Vátika) 33, 58, 146-7, 148, 149
Ayia Paraskeví (chapel near Hárakas) 26, 28
Ayia Várvara (chapel near Kiparíssi) 134, 134, 135
Ayios Geórgios (chapel near Anavrití) 105, 107, 108
Ayios Ioánnis (cave-chapel near Velanídia) 30, 32
Ayios Nikólaos (also called Selinítsa) 82-3, 83, 85
Ayios Nikólaos (village near Monemvásia) 138-9, 140
Ayios Níkon (mountain and village) 19
Ayios Pétros (chapel above the Viros Gorge) 72, 73, 74, 75
Ayios Stratigós (chapel near Díporo) 24, 96
Ayios Thomás (monastery near Velanídia) 144, 145, 146-7
Dekoúlou/Dekoúlon (monastery) 19, 87
Díporo (near Geroliménas) 24, 95, 96, 97
Diros Sea Caves 21, 86, 87, 88
Divári Lagoon 10-11, 48, 48
Elafónisos Island 5, 30, 33, 150
Eleohóri 82-83, 85
Elona/Elónis (monastery; see Panayía Elona)
Exohóri 72, 73, 74, 75, 77
Faneroméni (monastery) 110, 111, 112, 113, 114
Farakló 31, 142
Finikoúnda 13
Fonéas/Foniás (cove and beach) 20, 78
Gaïtsés 14, 15, 59, 61, 68
Geráki (Byzantine site, town) 26-7
Geroliménas 7, 21, 22-3, 39, 41, 95, 96, 97, 150
Giálova; see Yiálova
Giátrissa (monastery); see Panayía Yiátrissa
Golden Beach 11, 12, 47, 48, 49, 51
Grigóri, Moni (ruined monastery) 140, 141
Gythio 7, 9, 14, 17, 18, 81
Hárakas (Chárakas/Hárax, village near Kiparíssi) 24, 25, 26, 28
Haravgí (Cháravgi) 12, 52, 53, 54
Hóra 10, 12
Ithómi (mountain) 42, 43, 44
Itilo 7, 18, 19, 86, 87, 88, 150
Kalamáris Waterfall 10, 11, 12, 45, 46, 47
Kalamáta 5, 7, 11, 13, 14, 15, 19, 42, 55, 58, 64, 70, 81, 82, 88, 150
Kalívia Sohás 14, 105, 106-7, 108, 109
Kámbos 114, 15, 63, 64, 66, 68, 70
Kardamyli 14, 18, 20, 39, 41, 64, 65, 67, 71, 72, 76, 77, 78, 82, 89, 103, 150
Kariovoúni 19, 79
Karvéli 16, 55, 56-7, 56-7, 150
Kastaniá (Vátika); see Ano Kastaniá, Kato Kastaniá
Káto Karvéli 55, 56-7
Káto Kastaniá (Vátika) 31
Kelefá (village, castle) 18, 87
Kiparíssi 5, 133, 134-5, 134
Kokkála 21, 25
Kokkinóyia 25, 98, 99, 100
Koróni 10, 11, 13
Koskárakas (river, gorge) 15, 59, 60, 60, 61, 62, 63, 66-7
Kosmás (village, pass) 26, 27
Kremastí 26, 28, 29, 133, 134-5
Krialiánika (Omalés) 87, 88
Kynoúria (region); see Arcádia
Lacónia Province 16, 27, 43, 79, 139, 142, 150
Ladá 16, 55, 56-7, 58, 150
Langáda (village) 19, 89, 91
Langáda (pass, valley) 16, 55, 111, 112, 114, 150
Langadiótissa (cave-chapel, gorge) 14, 15, 16, 105, 110, 111, 114, 115
Láyia 21, 25
Leonídio 7, 26, 27, 28, 29, 34, 35, 39, 120, 124, 125, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131, 133, 150
Leontákis 95, 96, 97
Liméni 14, 18, 87
Livádi (Paralía Livádi) 124, 125, 126, 150
Magne, Grande/Maina (castle, Cape Tigáni) 92-3, 94
Malavázo (mountain) 116, 118
Maléas, Cape 5, 144, 145, 146, 146-7
Malevís (nunnery) 116, 118, 119
Málta 14, 65, 70
Máni Peninsula
Outer Máni 14-20, 59-81
Inner (Deep) Máni 21-25, 82-97
Maráthi (beach) 10, 13
Marmári (village and beach) 23, 24, 25
Mavrinítsa (hamlet and spring) 65, 66
Mavromáti 42, 44
Megáli Toúrla (summit, Mt Párnon) 116, 117, 118
Mélana 124, 125, 126, 150
Mémi (beach) 13
Mesohóri 31, 143
Messene/Messíni (site) 342, 43, 44, 44, 150
Messínia Province 19, 68, 79, 150
Methóni 10, 11, 13
Mézapos 22, 92, 94
Miliá/Mileá 14, 19, 79, 81, 82-3, 84, 85
Mitrópolis; see Kiparíssi
Monemvásia 7, 9, 27, 30, 31, 33, 35, 136-7, 138, 139, 140-1, 150
Mountanístika 23, 95, 96, 97
Mystrás (Byzantine site, village) 14, 15, 16, 19, 39, 105, 110, 111, 111, 113, 114
Navaríno Bay 11
Neápoli 7, 30, 31, 32, 33, 39, 81, 142, 143, 144, 150
Néo Itilo (also called Tsípa) 18, 86, 87
Nestor’s Cave 48, 50, 51
Nestor’s Palace 10, 12
Nyfi/Nymfi 25
Oitilo, Oitylo see Itilo
Odigítria (chapel) 21, 22, 92-3, 94
Paliohóri (Palaiochóri) 120,121, 122
Paliókastro (castle) 11, 48,49, 50, 51
Páliros 25, 98, 99, 100
Panarítis (beach) 33
Panayía Elona/Elónis(nunnery) 27
Panayía Yiátrissa (monastery)79, 80, 81, 82-3
Paradísi 30, 32, 143
Paralía (east coast); see
Kiparíssi
Paralía Romanoú; see
Romanós
Párnon/Párnonas (mountain range) 5, 8, 26, 27, 29, 35, 39, 108, 113, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 122
Paróri 14, 16, 41, 105, 111, 114
Passavá (gorge, castle) 18
Pedinó (part of Tséria) 74
Pépon (village and valley) 95, 96, 97
Pergandéïka 110, 111, 112, 113, 114
Petalídi 10, 13
Petrovoúni 76, 78
Pigádi (near Leonídio) 29, 130, 131, 132
Pigádia (near Kalamáta) 59, 60, 61, 63
Pigadiótiko (bridge) 59, 60, 60, 61, 63, 67
Pílos see Pylos
Pírgos Diroú 21, 87, 150
See also Diros Sea Caves
Pláka (near Leonídio) 29
Plátsa 19
Polilimnio Waterfalls 6, 10,11, 12, 13, 52, 53, 53, 54
Pórto Káyio 24, 93, 99, 100
Poseidon (Temple of) 98, 100
Poúlithra (town and bay) 130-1, 132
Proástio 76, 77, 78
Profítis Ilías (chapel near
Gaïtsés) 59, 60, 63
Profítis Ilías (peak, Mt
Taygetus) 76, 101, 102-3, 104
Profítis Ilías (village and mountain, Vátika) 143, 146-7, 149
Profítis Ilías (chapel, Mt Parnon) 118, 118
Profítis Ilías (chapel near Leonídio) 127, 128
Prosílio 14
Pylos 5, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 39, 48, 150
Refuges
EOS refuge at Arnómousgan Katafígio Refuge, Mt Párnon) 24, 116, 118
EOS refuge (Ayia Varvára, Mt Taygetus) 101, 102, 104
Ríglia, Káto 82-3, 85
Ríndomo/Ríntomo (canyon) 59, 60, 61, 67; see also Koskárakas (gorge)
Rómanos (village, beach) 10, 12
Sangiás (mountain) 21
Schinolakka 12, 45, 46
Símos (beach, Elafónisos Island) 33
Sohá 17, 105, 106-7, 108, 109
Sotiriánika 15, 63, 64, 65, 67, 71
Sotíros (chapel near Itilo) 87, 88
Sotíros (monastery; Viros Gorge) 72, 74, 75
Sparta (Spárti) 5, 7, 9, 14, 16, 17, 150
Stávri 21, 23, 39, 92, 93, 94
Stavropígio 14, 65, 69, 70
Stenosiá 45, 46
Stoúpa 14, 20, 39, 76, 82-3, 85, 150
Taínaron (ancient city) 99, 100
Cape 5, 21, 24, 25, 98, 99, 100
Talanta 30, 31
Taxiarches (monastery near Leonídio) 120, 121, 122-3
Taygéti (village) 110, 111, 113
Taygetus (mountain range) 4, 5, 8, 14, 16, 17, 19, 35, 56, 59, 60, 61, 67, 70, 76, 77, 79, 81, 101, 102-
3, 104, 105, 106, 110
Thalámes 119, 89, 91, 150
Tigáni, Cape 92-3, 94
Trípi 16
Tséria 72, 74
Váthia 21, 23, 25
Vathy (bay and beach near Páliros) 25, 98, 99, 100
Vátika Peninsula 30, 31, 32, 33, 81, 142-9
Vávila (mountain, pass) 32, 142, 143
Velanídia (Vátika) 30, 32, 33, 39, 142, 144, 145, 146-7, 150
Virós (gorge) 71, 72, 73, 74, 77
Voidokiliá (bay and beach) 10-11, 48, 48, 49, 51
Vório (part of Gaïtsés) 15, 59, 60
Vrísi (east coast); see Kiparíssi
Yéfira 137, 138, 139, 140-1
Yeroliménas; see Geroliménas
Yiálova 11, 45, 46, 47
Yiátrissa monastery; see Panayía Yiátrissa
Zágha (beach); see Mémi
Zarnátas (castle) 14, 64, 65, 69, 71
Zizali (mountains) 80
Zómbolo, Cape 146-7, 149
Zoodóchou Pigís (monastery) 17, 108, 110, 113
Lesvos, 4thed (2019); updated 5/5/19
Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Lesvos given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.
There are as yet no updates for this edition, but below are some comments from the authors:
The maps.me app for smart phone has a brilliant map for Lesvos, far better than the google maps app. It is good too for Kefalonia and Algarve. (Authors)
When drawing money from Greek ATMs, after choosing your amount in euros, the next screen offers you an opportunity proceed in pounds sterling. Should you choose the sterling option, the bank sets the exchange rate to their advantage which is not as favourable as the international exchange rate. (Authors)
GPS files for use with the Landscapes of Lesvos guidebook:
Download GPS files for Landscapes of Lesvos
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