Walking in Sicily

The book assumes that most users will be touring Sicily by car. The author suggests hotels or hostels (at least one for every walk, with telephone numbers. However, if you do not want to explore the entire island, you can access several walks from the spectacular resort of Taormina: one is adjacent to the town, two others are within 10km, and there are eight in the Etna area (some 15 to 20km away).

8 car tours, 70 long and short walks, 27 picnic suggestions
176 pages • 2 touring maps (covering all but the far southwestern corner of the island), newly-drawn 1:50,000 topo maps; free downloadable GPS tracks for all the walks
6th ed, March 2019; ISBN 978-1-85691-521-2; UK retail price £14.99 / USA retail price $20.00

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Recommended books; Acknowledgements 7
Getting about 9
Picnicking 9

TOURING 17
AROUND MOUNT ETNA (TOUR 1) 18
Catania (centre) · Nicolosi · Rifugio Sapienza · Piano Provenzana · Bronte · Adrano · Catania (ring road)

TAORMINA, THE PELORITANI MOUNTAINS AND THE AEOLIAN ISLANDS (TOUR 2) 22
Taormina · (Forza d’Agrò · Alì) · Messina · Milazzo · (Lipari · Vulcano) · Milazzo · Novara di Sicilia · Castiglione di Sicilia · Linguaglossa · Fiumefreddo · Taormina

THE NEBRODI MOUNTAINS (TOUR 3) 25
San Fratello · Portella Femmina Morta · Cesarò · Castello Maniace · Randazzo · Floresta · Galati Mamertino · Alcara li Fusi · Sant’Agata di Militello

CEFALÙ AND THE MADONIE MOUNTAINS (TOUR 4) 28
Cefalù · Gibilmanna · Castelbuono · Geraci Siculo · Gangi · Petralia Soprana · Petralia Sottana · Polizzi Generosa · Piano Battaglia · Isnello · Cefalù

PALERMO AND THE WEST (TOUR 5) 31
Palermo · Monreale · Segesta · Scopello · Erice · Trapani · Marsala · Selinunte · S. Giuseppe Iato · Palermo

BETWEEN PALERMO AND AGRIGENTO (TOUR 6) 36
Palermo · Piana degli Albanesi · Ficuzza · Corleone · Prizzi · Palazzo Adriano · Caltabelotta · Sciacca · Eraclea Minoa · Agrigento · Sant’Angelo Muxaro · Cammarata · Caccamo · Solunto · Palermo

CENTRAL SICILY (TOUR 7) 42
Agrigento · Caltanissetta · Enna · Aidone · Morgantina · Piazza Armerina · Villa del Casale · S. Michele di Ganzaria · Caltagirone · Ragusa

SOUTHEASTERN SICILY AND THE MONTI IBLEI (TOUR 8) 44
Syracuse · Penisola della Maddalena · Noto · Portopalo di Capo Passero · Ispica · Modica · Scicli · Donnafugata · Ragusa · Vizzini · Palazzolo Acreide · Pantalica · Syracuse

WALKING 51
Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 51
Weather 53
Safety and equipment 53
Snakes, dogs and ticks 54
Where to stay 55
Organisation of the walks 55
A country code 56
Glossary 57
Useful addresses 58

THE WALKS

AROUND MOUNT ETNA
1 Monti Rossi 60
2 Schiena dell’Asino and the Valle del Bove 62
3 Monte Fontana and the Valle del Bove 66
4 Monti Sartorius 68
5 Serra delle Concazze and the Pizzi Deneri 70
6 Monte Nero and the Grotta del Gelo 73
7 Monte Spagnolo and the Cisternazza 77
8 Monte Ruvolo, Monti Tre Frati and Monte Minardo 80

TAORMINA, THE PELORITANI MOUNTAINS AND THE AEOLIAN ISLANDS
9 Monte Venere 83
10 Forza d’Agrò 85
11 Monte Scuderi 87
12 The Gran Cratere on Vulcano 89
13 Western Lipari 90
14 Rocca Novara 93

THE NEBRODI MOUNTAINS
15 Monte Soro and Lago Biviere 95
16 Cascata del Catafurco 98
17 Bosco di Mangalaviti and Lago Biviere 100
18 Rocche del Crasto 103

CEFALÙ AND THE MADONIE MOUNTAINS
19 The castle rock of Cefalù 105
20 Giant hollies on the Piano Pomo 108
21 Vallone Madonna degli Angeli 110
22 Pizzo Carbonara 113
23 Gangivecchio and Monte Zimmara 116

PALERMO AND THE WEST
24 Monte Pellegrino, Palermo’s holy mountain 118
25 The Castellaccio on Pizzo del Corvo 121
26 Monte Còfano 122
27 The Zingaro Nature Reserve 125
28 Stone Age paintings on Levanzo 128

BETWEEN PALERMO AND AGRIGENTO
29 Portella della Ginestra and Serre della Pizzuta 131
30 Valle del Fanuso and Cozzo Fanuso 134
31 Rocca Busambra and the Bosco della Ficuzza 137
32 Monti di Palazzo Adriano 116
33 Torre Salsa and Eraclea Minoa 142
34 Sant’Angelo Muxaro and Monte Castello 145
35 Caccamo and Monte S. Calogero 122

SOUTHEASTERN SICILY AND THE MONTI IBLEI
36 Papyrus along the Ciane 150
37 Noto Antica and the Cava del Carosello 151
38 The Vendicari nature reserve 154
39 Scicli and the Colle di San Matteo 157
40 Ragusa Ibla and the Cava della Misericordia 158
41 Pantalica 161

Index 165
Fold-out touring map inside back cover

Acqua della Rocca (spring) 9
Adrano 16, 18
Aeolian Islands 19, 20
Agrigento 32, 34, 36, 37
Concordia Temple 34, 36
Hera Temple 10, 34
Aidone 37, 38
Albergo Le Betulle 61
Alcamo 29
Alcantara (gorge and valley 10, 21, 23
Alcara li Fusi 22, 24, 86
Alessandria della Rocca 35
Alì 19, 20
Alì Terme 20
Altofonte 32
Anaktoron 14, 44, 132, 133, 134
Anapo (river and valley) 132, 133, 134
Antica Iato 110-111, 111
Aragona 34
Avola 40
Avola Antica 40

Bagheria 36
Bivio (road junction)
Fondacheli 21
Gigliotti 38
Ramata 38
Bivona 35
Boccadifalco 28
Bonagia, Tonnara di 30
Bosco (wood)
Cerrita 18
della Ficuzza 112-113, 114
di Centorbi 68
di Mangalaviti 84-85
Bronte 16, 18, 66
Buccheri 43

Caccamo 32, 36, 122
Cala Dogana (Levanzo) 108, 109
Calamosche 127, 128
Caltabelotta 13, 32, 33
Caltagirone 37, 38
Caltanissetta 37
Cammarata 32, 35
Campobello di Mazara 30
Capo Bianco 13, 33, 118-119, 119
Capo Murro di Porco 40
Capo S. Alessio 19
Casalvecchio Siculo 20
Cascata del Catafurco 82, 83
Casermetta (forestry house) 62-63, 65, 66, 68
Castelbuono 25, 26, 97
Casteldaccia 36
Castelmola 69, 70
Castellamare del Golfo 29
Castellana Sicula 27
Castello degli Schiavi 21
Castello Eurialo 44
Castelvetrano 31
Castiglione di Sicilia 19, 21
Castroreale Terme 20
Catania 16, 18
Cava della Misericordia 130, 131
Cava Grande del Cassibile 40
Cave di Cusa 10, 12, 30
Cefalù 11, 25, 27, 88, 89, 90, 90
Rocca di 88, 89, 90, 90
Tempio di Diana 11, 89, 90
Cervi Mountains 94-5
Cesarò 11, 22
Christo Signor della Montagna 11
Chiaramonte Gulfi 43
Ciane (river) 12-13, 14, 124
Colle di S. Matteo 129, 129
Conca d’Oro 49
Corleone 32, 33
Cozzo Tondo 112-113
Crateri Silvestri 16
Cuba di S. Domenica 10

Donnafugata 39, 42

Egadi Islands 30
Eloro 127
Enna 13, 37
Enna Bassa 37
Eraclea Minoa 13, 32, 33, 118-119
Eremo della Quisquina (chapel) 35
Erice 28, 30

Faraglioni Islands 109
Ferla 44
Ficuzza 13, 32, 33, 112-113
Fiumefreddo di Sicilia 19, 21
Floresta 22, 24
Fontane Bianche 40
Fornazzo 17
Forza d’Agrò 2, 19, 71, 72

Galati Mamertino 22, 24, 83
Gangi 25, 26
Gangivecchio 98, 99
Geraci Siculo 25, 26 97
Giardini-Naxos 21
Giarratana 43
Gibellina Nuova 31
Ruderi (ruins) di 31
Gravina 16
Grotta del Gelo 61, 62-63
Grotta di Mangiapane 30

Iblei Mountains 40
Isnello 25, 27
Ispica 39, 42
Cava d’Ispica 14, 42

Lago Biviere 79, 80-81, 84-85
Larderia Necropoli 14
Levanzo (island) 108, 109, 109
Linguaglossa 19, 21
Lipari (island) 19, 21, 76, 77

Madonie Mountains 25, 96-7
Maniace 22
Castello Nelson 11, 22, 23
Marausa 30
Marina di Cottone 10, 21
Marinella di Selinunte 31
Marsala 28, 30
Marzamemi 41
Mascalucia 16
Messina 19, 20
Strait of 72
Milazzo 19, 20
Militello Rosmarino 24
Milo 17
Misterbianco 18
Modica 39, 42, 43
Monreale 12, 28, 29, 31, 102
Monte (mountain)
Alveria 40
Cammarata 35
Castello 120, 121, 121
Citadella 14
Erice 15
Etna 1, 16, 17, 19, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 57, 58-59, 60, 61, 62-63, 64, 65, 70
Bocca Nuova 52, 53, 58-59, 60
Cisternazza (cistern) 62-3, 64, 65
Iato 110-11, 111
Lepre 66-7
Minardo 66, 68
Pellegrino 49, 100, 101
Pispisa 104
Pomiciaro 17
Ruvolo 66-7, 68
S. Calogero 122, 123
S. Salvatore 92-93, 94
Scuderi 72, 73, 74
Soro 79, 80-81
Spagnolo 62-63, 64, 65
Tre Frati 66, 68
Venere 69, 70
Zimmara 99
Monteallegro 33
Monterosso Almo 43
Monti (pl. of Monte)
Rossi 9, 16, 51, 51
Sartorius 56, 58-59
Silvestri Superiore 53
Morgantina 11, 14, 37, 38
Scavi di 14, 38
Mozia (island) 12, 13
Imbarcadero di Mozia 15, 30

Naxos, Bay of 70
Nebrodi Mountains 22
Necropoli di Filiporto 133, 134
Nicolosi 9, 16, 51
Noto 39, 40
Noto Antica 14, 39, 40, 125, 126
Novara di Sicilia 19, 21

Oliveri 20

Pachino 41
Palazzo Adriano 32, 33, 116, 117
Palazzolo Acreide 39, 43
Palermo 12, 28, 31, 32, 36, 49, 99, 100
Pantalica 14, 39, 44, 132, 134
Parco (park)
dei Nebrodi 22
dello Zingaro 12, 29, 105, 106, 107
Forza 14, 41
Regionale delle Madonie 25, 96-97
Partinico 29
Paternò 18
Peloritani Mountains 19, 20
Penisola della Maddalena 39
Pergusa 37
Petralia Soprana 11, 25, 26
Petralia Sottana 25, 27
Pian del Vescovo 9, 16
Piana degli Albanesi 32
Piano Battaglia 25, 27, 92-93, 96-7
Piano Provenzana 16, 18, 61
Piano Pomo 91, 92-93, 93
Piano Sempria 26, 91, 92-93
Pianoconte (Lipari) 76, 77
Piazza Armerina 37, 38
Piedimonte Etneo 21
Pietracannone 9, 17, 54, 55, 58-59
Pioppo 29
Pizzi (pl. of Pizzo)
Deneri 57, 58-59
Pizzo (peak)
Carbonara 92-93, 96
del Corvo 11, 12, 28, 102, 102, 105
Polizzi Generosa 25, 27
Portella (pass)
Femmina Morta 10, 22, 79, 80-81
Gazzana 24, 84-85, 87, 88
Mandrazzi 21
Scafi 84-85
Spiria 73, 74
Porticello 36
Porto di Levante (Vulcano) 75
Porto Empedocle 33
Portopalo di Capo Passero 39, 41
Prizzi 32, 33

Quattropani 21, 76, 77

Ragusa 37, 38, 39, 42, 130-1, 131
Ragusa Ibla 14, 43, 130-1, 131
Giardino Ibleo 11, 14
Randazzo 22, 23
Rifugio (inn, refuge, hut)
Alpe Cucco 33, 112-113, 114, 115
Citelli 18, 56, 57, 58-59, 60
Saletti 62-63, 64, 65
Sapienza 16, 52, 58-59
Rocca (rock)
Busambra 112-113, 114, 115
di Cerere 13
Novara 10, 20, 21, 78
Roccapalumba 35
Rocche del Crasto 84-85, 86, 87
S. Agata di Militello 22, 24
S. Alfio 17
S. Angelo Muxaro 32, 35, 120, 121, 121
S. Basilio 82
S. Biagio Platani 35
S. Cipirello 31, 110, 111
S. Fratello 22
S. Giuseppe Iato 28, 31, 111
S. Martino delle Scale 11, 12
S. Michele di Ganzaria 37, 38
S. Stefano Quisquina 35
S. Vito lo Capo 29
Sacova 20
Santuario Maria SS di Gibilmanna 11, 25
Sciacca 32, 33
Scicli 39, 42, 129, 129
Scopello 8, 28, 29, 105
Segesta 28, 29, 102, 103, 104
Selinunte 28, 31, cover
Siculiana 33, 34
Siracusa 39, 44, 124
Scifì 20
Solazzo 10, 79, 80-81
Solunto 32, 36
Sortino 44
Sosio (river and valley) 116, 117
Strada Mareneve (road) 17,
Syracuse: see Siracusa

Taormina 19, 21, 69, 70
Terme Segestane 29
Termini Imerese 36
Tonnara di Scopello 8
Torre (tower)
del Filosofo 52, 58-59
Salsa 118-119
Tortorici 24
Trabia 36
Trapani 15, 28, 30
Tyndaris 20

Valderice 30
Valle (valley)
del Bove 52, 53, 54, 58-59
del Fanuso 112-113, 113
Vallone (small valley)
del Vescovo 9, 16
Madonna degli Angeli 92-93, 94-5
Vendicari Nature Reserve 41, 127, 128
Villa del Casale (Villa Romana) 37, 38
Vizzini 39, 43, 44
Vulcano (island) 19, 74, 74

Zafferana Etnea 17

Sicily, 5th edition (January 2016) ; updated 16/11/2018

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Sicily given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have the third or an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

A NEW EDITION, WITH GPS TRACKS, WILL BE PUBLISHED IN SPRING 2019. It will, of course, take into account all the updates below.

Sicily photos: Log onto the author’s Instagram account to see his photos and whet your appetite!: https://www.instagram.com/walksicily/

General: We’ve just been using Sicily 5th edition. One common grump we’ve had is that it can be difficult to locate a walk. It’s fine if you can arrive ‘from town X as the book says, following the signposts to Joe’s restaurant but turning off just after the green gate’. If you’re arriving from a different direction then actually locating the book’s map with any accuracy can take lots of time. I tried to set up my satnav before leaving the hotel but it was very time-consuming.
A solution is to publish GPS or satnav coordinates. These could be added to the update sheets or put on the web as a separate page. As a starter I’d supply (degrees north then degrees east)
Walk 4 37.77074 15.06066
Walk 9 37.86090 15.27688
Walk 15 37.92478 14.66578
Walk 20 37.90247 14.06870
Walk 21 37.84795 14.01244
Walk 22 37.87937 14.02855
Walk 41 had 2 distinct entrances. The west was at 37.13694 15.02404 and the east was at 37.14421 15.03827. Some of these were stored on the spot in our satnav when we reached the car parks. Others I’ve recreated by using Google maps when we got home. (User, 4/16) + Sunflower responded that there are GPS tracks for most of the walks, to which this user replied: What I want is a simple way of telling my car’s satnav where to find the start of the walk (or at least somewhere pretty close to it). That’s why I’m suggesting a centralised list saying ‘Walk x starts from xx.xxx North and yy.yyy East’. Half the hotels we used didn’t have usable wi-fi, because they either needed an Italian mobile phone number or, better still, sent the login password by email which I couldn’t read until I had wi-fi access. What I was not asking for was a set of waypoints to guide me round the walks. Generally (but not always) the book’s text and map (and my sense of direction) was adequate. I agree that the author’s website shows a map of each walk from which a file of waypoints for a handheld GPS device can be downloaded. I don’t have a device which can use them but after downloading and decompressing a sample file I can see roughly what data is provided. I could extract the first set of coordinates and assume it corresponds to the starting place. Alternatively the coordinates can be taken from the author’s map’s web address but that may well not be centred on the starting point. As an example I wanted to get to the start of walk 4 after driving round Etna clockwise, rather than anticlockwise as described in tour 1. Essentially what I did was display the TomTom map and the book/website map side by side and then matched them visually. + Sunflower thinks this is all a good idea and we will try to post these coordinates in future editions of our books. (4/16) + As of late 2017 all new books have GPS coordinates for parking. The new edition of Sicily (spring 2019) will have the parking coordinates.

Walk 1: The agriturismo Azienda Trinità has changed its name to Etna Botanic Garden (Tel. 0957275259, www.etnabotanicgarden.com). I can still highly recommend it. (Author, 1/18) + This walk was not possible when we attempted it on 27/04/18. The green iron barrier at the start was padlocked and there was a notice saying that the Monti Rossi area was strictly out of bounds as of 30/03/18. (User, 5/18)

Walk 2: Please state at the start of the walk instruction that this should not be attempted before June (or at least in the description of the alternative walk 1) as when we tried in March, we got to the 1hr15min point & had to turn back. Very frustrating! (User, 9/17)

Walk 3: The agriturismo La Cirasella changed its website: www.cirasellaetna.it. (Author, 1/18) + We found the instructions towards the end of Walk 3 confusing around the 2 hour point. There were several crossings and we weren’t sure at which one to turn right. (User, 5/18) + Walked 23/08/18: Page 54 – We couldn’t see or find the stone cannon in front of the shelter. Page 55 – We failed to find the track to the summit after the first open lava flow. We crossed the lava field which was wrong. It would have be useful if the instructions had said turn right at the start of the lava field. We saw the track on the way back when we realised that we had gone wrong somewhere. (User, 9/18)

Walk 4: At 30min, the track is very indistinct and no yellow markers can be seen now (not just a few missing as stated). We abandoned our walk. (User, 9/17) + Even without markers the cinder cones of Monti Sartorius offer beautiful strolls all year round – even in snow! The paths are well walked and obvious. (Author, 1/18)

Walk 6: (I only did the Monte Nero Circuit so can’t comment on the rest of the route.) A key direction is omitted between the 15min and 30 min points, which is that where the path forks at a signpost, take the right fork, the left fork being the return route. (I went left and ended-up doing the circuit in reverse.) The left fork is signposted “Rifugio do M. Timparossa & Grotta del Gelo” but the right fork isn’t signposted at all, hence it’s natural to take the left fork unless told otherwise, particularly as the instructions refer to following the waymarked path. (User, 11/18)

Walk 7: Walked 27/08/2018. The start was very difficult to find as I think that you should head towards Etna Nord and not Etna Sud!! When we followed the signs to Etna Nord, we were able to locate the start of the walk. The walk was easy to follow; timings were good; lava fields interesting; excellent views. (User, 9/18)

Walk 8: The former casermetta at the starting point has become the refuge Piano dei Grilli, open from June to September Thursday to Sunday and from September to May Saturdays and Sundays; mobile 347190220, 3288388782, www.etnadintorni.it. They offer great Sicilian food, rustic accommodation and lot of helpful walking tips. (Author, 1/18)

Walk 10: After the 15min point the junction with the return path is signposted “ Recavallo & Chiesa Pietro E Paolo” (blue and yellow waymarks) and not ‘Rocca Scala, Recavallo’ as stated in the book. It also joins the road about 250m SE of the point shown on the map in the book, and I didn’t see a “little piazza”. (User, 11/18)

Walk 11: If you’re looking for an easier way to reach the summit of Monte Scuderi, follow the broad gravel track from the 50min-point to the left. The ascent from the 1h-point to the Porta del Monte (2h-point) is best suited for more adventurous souls. (Author, 1/18)

Walk 14: We drove way over the mountains to do walk 14, Rocca Novara. Unfortunately it was really disappointing from two points:
1) It was difficult to locate the start of the walk, there is no km24.600 road marker on the SS185 ( we went up and down the road)
2) But then when we did start the path has been fenced off, the picnic area is neglected and not accessible. We climbed over a wire fence which has clearly been designed to keep people out and we managed to find the track but couldn’t stick with it as it was overgrown and had to give up the walk without reaching the foot of Rocca Novara. (User, 9/16) + The road marker clearly exists – twice. Somebody even took the trouble to write „24 + 600“ on the guardrail! As for the overgrown path, that really is a common problem in southern Italy. Paths are clearer in early spring and late autumn. (Author, 1/18)

Walk 15: Closer to the Portella Femmina Morta lies the rustic Hotel Rifugio del Parco (Tel. 09411935239, mobile 3774130875, www.rifugiodelparco.it) at the road-marker 28.695 on the SS 289. (Author, 1/18)

Walk 16: The tennis court has been demolished and is no longer on the right by the bend near the iron cross. However it is confusing because there is a sports area further back up the road opposite a turn off, this is next to a shrine that could be taken for an iron cross. (User, 11/17)

Walk 17: At the very end, once you reach the Casa Machiazza, the route is completely barred. The owner of the house was very friendly but we believe that he was telling us that the river valley was impassable. This resulted in a 7km detour back to the Portella Gazzana and a long slog in the dark up the road to our car at the Case Mangalaveti (which incidentally is no longer ruins). (User, 11/17)

Walk 18: Walked 29/08/2018. Very difficult to find the start at Portella Gazzana – we needed directions from SP157 via Lungi/Stazzonne/Crocetta. Page 87 – After 30 minutes, turn left, fine; descend to trough, 50 minutes, fine; then, the path disappears. We tried to continue but to no avail. We couldn’t see or find the next junction to walk right uphill between fences. So, we had to retrace our steps back to the main path at the 30 minute turn off and follow the short walk path. This was extremely frustrating and very disappointing. (User, 9/18)

Walk 19: The entrance fee of 4 euro has been introduced. You can only pay by coin at the machine; notes & cards are not accepted. We were not carrying enough coinage and neither were many others. After much debate with the attendant (who told us to walk back into town to get change!), we were all waived through without paying. (User, 9/17) + Admission is from 9.00 to 19.00 from April to October, otherwise from 9.00 to 16.00. And it’s true: have small change ready. (Author, 1/18) + Walked 02/09/2018. There is no parking near the lighthouse – we parked here and then realised it was for residents/locals only so had to return back around the rock to the main town. The walk was very easy to follow. We did the complete longer version and the best views were from the side overlooking the harbour and the mountains. (User, 9/18)

Walk 20: I’d also like to recommend the friendly B&B Casa del Sole (Tel. 0921600924, mobile 3404771387, teresalangona@gmail.com) in the Contrada Scondito Alta 26 above Castelbuono. (Author, 1/18) +  Page 93: “Here the path (easily missed) bends sharp right ..”:  in my opimion it is the main track, no doubt at all, even did not see another track. In addition: there are some fences now, the sharp bend right (I guess) is just after crossing the gate in the fence. (User, 5/18)

Walk 21: Apart from the very good agriturismo Donna Lavia I can also recommend the excellent restaurant I Templari in Polizzi Generosa with four friendly rooms (Piazza Castello 7, mobile 3203531229, www.facebook.com/itemplari.polizzi/). (Author, 1/18) + Page 95: After crossing the floor of the Vallone, I had great problems recognising the description. “The path ascends in earnest once more, first through an oak grove”: I never met this. What happened was that we were climbing, crossing a small stream near a source, and then the path took a straight westerly direction, until we came to a crossing with waymarks. But because we did not know what was right and what was wrong, we went back the same way. On our way back, I never noticed a going east or NE, as the map suggests. Nonetheless it is a nice valley. Suggestion: walking back the forest-trail (rather dull) there seemed to be a track (waymarked red/white) descending down to the place the car was. But we did not explore this. (User, 5/18) + Walked 01/09/2018. Easy to find the start although it was only 1200 metres beyond the km7 road marker. There was more space to park 100 metres back down the road from the green gate; near a bend, off road parking. Easy to follow route. Excellent views. The descent back down was easy- a very good path to follow. (User, 9/18)

Walk 22: Walked 03/09/2018 The start was easy to find and there were excellent views from the top.
Page 96 – after the chain barrier, there wasn’t a dilapidated stone house. The instructions after this were confusing. Excellent views at the peak of Pizzo Carbonara. Page 96 – descend the same way and continue down the ridge – we got lost here! There weren’t any blue flashes to follow. We did follow cairns but this wasn’t the correct route as we were lower than the ridge. From the peak to the Refugio was challenging underfoot. Page 97 – there are no wooden posts. The route downhill was clearly marked even though the book says it isn’t. There were red dots to follow and even an arrow pointing to the right which made the descent very easy to follow. (User, 9/18)

Walk 24: In the summers of 2016 and 2017 fires damaged the forests on Monte Pellegrino and destroyed most of the sign posts and information boards en route. (Author, 1/18) + Grade:  Needs mention of quite a few scrambly bits and the general requirement to be surefooted on the Vallone path.
Page 100, Start of walk:  Both the sign at the entrance and the bus timetable show ‘Casa Natura’. 2nd para:  It should be ‘eucalypts’ not eucalyptus trees (as a still self-respecting Aussie I can’t let this pass). Page 101: At  S Rosalia, line 2:  ‘hot dog stands’ !!!  There’s a trattoria, pizzeria, gelateria which include a couple of bars. 2nd para:  ‘right turn at information board’ should be at the second info board (I think).  But then there’s no sign to Pizzo Monaco (maybe not replaced after the fires a couple of years ago, mentioned in updates, but then there were scant signs of fires in this area anyway.) But then I lost it – seems to be something missing from the description.  But, thanks to the notes at the end about Shorter Walk, I found the pilgrim’s path and followed it down to the alarmingly busy road – where it would have been helpful to know on which side of the road buses for Palermo stop. (User, 5/18) + Walked 05/09/2018. We arrived by car so parked it at the only car park in the one way system of the Parco della Favorita, at the Ippodrome end of Viale Diana. We then walked to the start. Steep ascent with good views. Views were also good from the terrace at the shrine of Santa Rosalia. Page 101 – Follow the sign ‘Pizzo Monaco’; there wasn’t one. We did have lunch at a spot overlooking Palermo but it wasn’t the correct place. We noticed the path lined with stones by chance as we were checking that we were in the right place and then saw them! The ascent was very difficult and the path was extremely hard to follow due to fire damage, fallen trees and waist high prickly thistle bushes.  Excellent views on the descent.  We were much closer to our parked car at the end of the route. The book recommends using a bus but we were staying 45 minutes outside Palermo so chose to drive in. (User, 9/18) + There is no Pizzo Monaco sign pointing left on the track after the 1h15min point, and I could not find the path going left or the path lined by stones going right which is supposed to lead to Monte Pellegrinio. I followed a grassy track/path going continuing ahead assuming that I’d see these paths eventually, but the path eventually petered out at a viewpoint above the sea.  I then had to back-track and follow the shorter alternative route down instead. (User, 11/18)

Walk 25: Walked 04/09/2018. Start okay to find. However, no steps at the start of the walk; we followed a stony track then a cobbled path which led to a stony/soil track. The actual path up to the castle was very easy to follow. Excellent views at the top. We were confused with the direction walk a short way North away from the castle to descend – should it be East? We followed the wrong track around the castle so descended the same way as we came up. (User, 9/18)

Walk 26: As in case of the Zingaro Nature Reserve a small entrance fee is asked for visiting the newly established Monte Còfano Nature Reserve. Access is daily from 8am until two hours before sunset. The Hotel Cortile is still there, but the street changed its name: it’s now Via Padre F. Randazzo 33/b. (Author, 1/18) + Page 104: Shortly after the watchtower (Tonnaro di Còfano, 1h25) there is a fence and signs of Vietato (forbidden), indicating there is danger of rocks falling. We ignored it, as most people did, and had a lovely walk, not looking dangerous at all. On the approach to Cornino is the complementary fence. The Torre di S. Giovanni is shut with locks. After the 2h33 point, “tak the broad gravel road up to the left”: the road is tarred. Entrance to the Grotta Mangiapane is 3 euro. (User, 5/18) + Walked 12/09/2018. Start easy to find. Good walk. Nice views. The lake at 50 minutes dries up in the summer. There are 2 paths at the top and we went wrong! We took the path on the right and had a much longer descent. Parts of the track had no entry signs due to falling rocks but this was ignored by a group with a guide so we did the same. You can’t climb up the Torre Di San Giovanni as other walkers have mentioned. It’s locked and even the tiles have been removed from the floor. (User, 9/18)

Walk 27: Walked 09/09/2018. We kept to the low coastal track which was very easy to follow and walked 7.5 miles. €5 pp entrance. The small houses/museums were interesting. Thought we’d have lunch at the Cala dell’Uzzo but loads of wasps stopped us from doing this! (User, 9/18)

Walk 38: Walked on 19/09/2108. Great walk! Very easy to find. Saw flamingoes. Walked from the car park to Calamosche beach & back; had a swim. Route & path easy to follow. Can go as far as you like in two directions. (User, 10/18)

Walk 30: There are new telephone numbers for the Rifugio Alpe Cucco: mobile 3351647717, 3277614772. (Author, 1/18)

Walk 32: The agriturismo Casale Borgia is temporarily closed. I recomend Francesco Traina’s Azienda Agricola Traina (mobile 3394594895, www.aziendaagricolatraina.it) in the Contrada Torre Sosio 5 km northeast of Palazzo Adriano along the SS 188. (Author, 1/18)

Walk 33: The Relais Briuccia has changed its website: www.capitoloprimo.it. Dont’t miss a meal in this exeptional restaurant! (Author, 1/18) + I had major problems even finding the start. Having eventually found it I can advise the following. The turn off at the Visitors’ Centre is about 3km from the SS15 exit, rather than 2km as stated. Also, the map showing SP75 is wrong as it shows the road always being on the N side of SS115 until the turn-off, whereas the 1^st 1.5km is actually on the S side. The sign for ‘Riserva Naturale Torre Salsa’ is also very difficult to see if exiting SS115 from the W rather than the E (as I was). Also, having turned-off at the visitors’ centre I found the road to be so rough that I thought it unsafe to drive and had to park at the visitors’ centre. Better directions would be to exit SS115 at km 159,700, and at the roundabout on the S (coast) side of the junction follow the lane (signed ‘Riserva Naturale Torre Salsa’) SE for 3km, crossing over to the N side of SS115 after about 1.5km. Then at the visitors‘ centre on the right (signed for the World Wildlife Fund) turn-off and park. Now comments on the actual walk itself. The instructions after 10min say “The gently descending track leads across an unpaved parking area” but also ought to say that at this point it’s necessary to turn right on a crossing track for a few metres before turning left and following a path beside a fence down to the cliffs. The worst aspect of this walk however is that after I descended to the beach, I found that the way right along the beach was impassable as the sea was right at the foot of the cliffs at the headland at the end of the beach. This was very near high tide and presumably the route is passable at lower tide, but I think that it’s unacceptable and dangerous to publish a route which can be cut-off by the tide without even warning people. I would have been very unhappy if I’d found the route to be blocked by the sea on the way back rather than on the way out – and I might have, if I’d not had problems finding the start and hence started earlier! (User, 11/18)

Walk 34: It’s always a good idea to ask Pierfilippo Spoto from Val di Kam for advice. He knows best the current condition of the path. Dont’t miss the small archeological museum in the main piazza! (Author, 1/18)

Walk 37: This walk was delightful – no problems – and took us to areas that we would not have otherwise discovered. (User, 11/17) + Walked 20/09/2018. Getting to the starting point – we got to San Corrado di Fuori fine; it would have helped to have a kilometre marker for the left turn off to Santa Maria delle Scala. Page 126, reference to the open field; it would have been more helpful to direct us to walk parallel with the green fence, 20 metres away from it as we were unsure if we were on the right track and were guessing. We actually went wrong and had to retrace our steps. Page 126 – the stile is now a mesh kissing gate… The directions need to be made clearer from the pool, e.g. return to the pool and cross the stream to the left hand side, heading upstream. Page 126 – we missed the turn off to the right. The directions need to be much clearer as to where this turning actually is. It would be helpful to know how far up the hill you go before looking for red arrows and the marked path to the right called Sentiero Saccari Concerie. You won’t see this sign unless you look behind you! We missed the turn off and walked uphill too far. The sign was obvious on our return when we realised that we were still on the wrong side of the valley and retraced our steps. Basically you almost climb up and out of the valley on the left hand side of the stream before then descending right following Sentiero Saccari Concerie.
When you re-enter Noto Antica a sign says “Vietato il transito a tutte le persone non autorizzate”, telling you don’t go where you’ve just come from! There wasn’t a similar sign on the opposite side of the valley where you start to descend the footpath. (User, 9/18)

Walk 38: The Agriturismo Calamosche (Tel. 0931836648, mobile 3478587319, www.agriturismocalamosche.it) close to the 1h10min-point serves great food with farm-produce. It can also serve as an alternative entrance to the nature reserve. (Author, 1/18)

Walk 39: The circular route is no longer possible, as access has been blocked via locked tall gate after passing 10 minute point (via Rapida). We tried following route upwards by via Timpanello but no joy. You can see from the locked gate where the path goes above the rooftops but we think it has been blocked due to landslip as it looked in poor condition. We restarted the walk by following the return route backwards to reach the summit. We checked from the top to see if we were mistaken but the path no longer exists to descend to the rooftops from the old church. It is still worth doing as a ‘there & back again’ walk as the views were magnificent! (User, 9/17) + Walked 18/09/2018. As previous walkers have mentioned, gates bar access to the route. A very helpful local told us that this has been the case for more years than he can remember. We navigated our way back to the start and followed the local signage up the paved hill to Chiesa San Matteo. The view was okay but nothing spectacular.
We came back down the same way. If we’d read the additional walkers’ notes about this walk then we wouldn’t have bothered doing it, not being able to access the route provided which should have been a circular walk. (User, 9/18)

Walk 40: The Italian Alpine Club (CAI) and other associations seem to take good care of the network of paths in the Cava della Misericordia. Unfortunately that is not often the rule in Sicily! Don’t miss these two ice-cream parlours in Ragusa Ibla: Gelati DiVini below the Duomo di San Giorgio and Mastrociliega opposite the entrance of the Giardino Ibleo. (Author, 1/18) + Please note the exit from Ragusa via Discesa San Leonardo is blocked by a locked gate for safety reasons. There is an alternative path down and across San Leonardo to the east adjacent to the Chiesa San Rocco. Maps show an alternative path down to the west of Piazza della Repubblica but that is also blocked off. (User, 6/18)

Walk 41: New website for the agriturismo Porta Pantalica: www.agriturismoportapantalica.eu. (Author, 1/18) + Walked Sept ’18. Start easy to find but we travelled to the Sortino starting point as we were staying close to this side. This meant that we started the walk at the 2hr 10min time slot on Page 134 so we had to readjust timings to make sure that we were on track. There were very new signs recently put up which were extremely thorough and made this the easiest walk to follow out of the 14 that we completed. Page 134 – The cave entrance was open ( if it’s the correct one) and was called the Church of the Crucifixion. Everything was great until after the confluence of the two rivers on Page 134; we were meant to turn left by a stand of aspens – as there were so many trees we were unable to recognise or locate them. The instructions were confusing and we ended up rejoining the disused railway line after the second tunnel. After about 40 minutes of not being able to find where we should have been, we retraced our steps back down to the river. A much more useful direction would have been to “at the fork, stay left with the river until you cross it”. The stepping stones aren’t very visible or obvious – they look like someone has thrown some small stones in the river to try and start building a dam. When we crossed over to the other side, the path was very overgrown with brambles and nettles and wasn’t at all obvious until after 25 metres when it joined the widening track. (User, 9/18) + It would be helpful to say in the access instructions that the road signs to Pantaclia from Sortino take you to the 2h10min point. Many new path signs have been erected since the book was published. When reaching the floor of the Calcinara at 2h40min the stepping stones aren’t visible and I had trouble finding them. They’re on the right of the most obvious pool and the way is pointed by a triple sign to various places including “Anaktoron – Pantaclia” (although as it was leaning against some bushes it might not be there in the future). Having crossed the stepping stones there are some rock-cut steps going up left. After the 1h30min point the path taken before the 2^nd tunnel seems to have been destroyed by a landslide (after the path has descended to the riverside). I ended-up going through the tunnel and then rejoining the route from there – the path down to the river crossing can be seen a few minutes back along the path bypassing the tunnel. (User, 11/18)

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