Walking in the Basque Country
£12.00
52 walks and 8 car tours
by Philip Cooper
A guidebook to walking in the Basque Country of Spain and France, featuring 52 of the best long and short day walks. We cover the area from Bilbão to Biarritz, showing trekking routes of varying difficulty, all of which are mapped in detail. This new fourth edition has been updated on the ground since the pandemic and includes free downloadable GPS tracks.
Most of the hikes are circular with sections of the Camino de Santiago included. Trek along the beautiful rugged coastline, in the mountains of the interior, and visit Iruña-Pamplona and San Sebastián.
This guide also includes eight car tours and a touring map.
When to go: The best months for trekking in the Basque Country are from May to October, but many of the walks can be done all year round.
★★★★★ amazon review ‘I’m a big fan of the Sunflower books and they are usually one of the first I reach for when we’re planning a holiday. The Basque Country book is no exception to the usual quality of the series. We didn’t spend as much time in the Basque Country as it deserved but we had enough info from the book to cherry pick some of the best spots. Particular recommendation was Walk 32 from Col de la Pierre-St Martin which was an absolutley amazing and quiet spot on a super sunny and warm October afternoon. This (and the other walks we had time to do) was indicative of the usual quality of the directions which you find throughout the series. Highly recommended as always with Sunflower!‘ cubegame
Printed book: £14.99 / PDF ebook: £12.00
This is the first guidebook to bring together hikes and tours in the Basque Country, which runs east from Bilbão in Spain to Biarritz in France and takes in famous places like Pamplona and stages on the Camino de Santiago.
The entire Basque coast is mostly very rugged, with many thriving fishing towns and villages, plus the added attraction of splendid beaches. Inland the countryside is more mountainous, with lush green countryside.
Don’t miss the award-winning Guggenheim Museum in Bilbão, the Pilgrims’ Route to Santiago, the San Fermines fiestas at Iruña-Pamplona, or stunning coastal resorts like Donostia-San Sebastián and Biarritz. But most of all, explore the remote picture-postcard villages and lush mountainous countryside straddling both sides of the Pyrenees — preferably on foot.
Another great book in the blue bible series. Info is great and useful. (Big red bus, Amazon)
Excellent… Using this guide book really enhanced my walking holiday in the Basque Country, a region which has to be one of Europe’s best kept secrets. The practical details given are first class and the book is an essential
companion for anyone planning to visit the area. (Mr M, Amazon)
For the traveller with limited time but who wants to get to know the Basque Country beyond its cities, it’s hard to know what more you could reasonably ask for. I’ve lived in the area for decades and have used this guide to get to know some unfamiliar corners better… Excellent. (MW, Amazon)
There’s wealth of information on the author’s page of iberianwidlife.com.
The book covers a very large area; touring the Basque Country by car is the best way to access all the walks in the book. Suggestions are given for accommodation, with details of how to make advance reservations on the web.
52 long ans short walks (some specially suited to motorists), 8 car tours
136 pages + touring map; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
4th ed, 2023; ISBN 978-1-85691-536-6; UK retail price £14.99 / USA retail price $20.00 / euro €16,50
Table of contents:
Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Useful books 7
Short walks and picnic suggestions 8
Touring 10
Car tour 1: GIPUZKOA (with Short walks 1 and 2 for motorists) 12
Car tour 2: BAZTAN VALLEY AND PYRENEAN FOOTHILLS (with Short walk 3 for motorists) 17
Car tour 3: CENTRAL BIZKAIA (with Short walks 4-6 for motorists) 21
Car tour 4: SOUTHERN BIZKAIA AND WESTERN ARABA (with Short walks 7-9 for motorists) 26
Car tour 5: RIOJA ALAVESA AND THE NEARBY SIERRAS (with Short walks 10-12 for motorists) 31
Car tour 6: NORTH/CENTRAL NAFARROA (with Short walks 13-16 for motorists) 36
Car tour 7: THE FRENCH BASQUE COAST AND LAPURDI (with Short walks 3 and 17 for motorists) 42
Car tour 8: XIBEROA/ZUBEROA (with Short walks 18 and 19 for motorists) 47
Walking 52
Maps; Waymarking; Where to stay; Weather; Clothing and equipment; Dogs and other animals; Safety and responsible behaviour; Language hints; Glossary; Getting about; Organisation of the walks
THE WALKS
1 Gros beach • Sagües • cliff top walk around Mt Ulia • Illurgita • aqueduct • Fuente del Inglés • Faro de la Plata • Pasai San Pedro harbour 62
2 Besabi • Montefrio • Arroyo de Sorotxota • Menhir de Eteneta • Adarra • Matale • Besabi 64
3 Alkiza • Itxurain • Irumugarrieta • Zelatun • Ernio • Zelatun • Alkiza 66
4 Larraitz • Oria Iturria • Bordas de Zirigarate • Egurral •
Txindoki • Egurral • Larraitz • Detour to Gaztelu 70
5 Aldaola • San Adrián refuge • San Adrián tunnel • Mt Aitzkorri • Mt Aketegi • Mt Aitxuri • Urbia refuge • Oltza • Calzada Romana • San Adrián tunnel • San Adrián refuge • Aldaola 72
6 Eskas • Elizmendi path via Erroiarri waterfall • Artikutza village and reservoir • old railway line • balcón natural • Eskas 76
7 Aiako Harriak (Peñas de Aia) circuit: Aritxulegi • Domiko irrigation channel • Castillo del Inglés • Elurretxe • Aritxulegi 78
8 Etxalar • Sarriko Erreka • Bagoleko Borda • Aizkolegi • Azkua • Etxalar 80
9 Erratzu • Iñarbegiko Erreka • Xorroxín waterfall • Dolmen de Iñarbegi • Barrenetxea • Erratzu 82
10 Aurtitz • Embalse de Mendaur • Buztiz Lepoa • Mendaur • Buztiz Lepoa • Embalse de Mendaur • Aurtitz 84
11 Bilbao • San Adrián • Larraskitu • Igertu • Cruz de Artabe • Pagasarri • Biberdi • Ganekogorta • Pagasarri • Bilbao 86
12 Santuario de Urkiola • Urkiolagirre • Fuente de Pol-Pol • Pagozelai • Detour to Anboto • Pagozelai • Asuntza • Larraona and Santa Barbara chapel • Santuario de Urkiola 89
13 Lezika • Cueva de Santimamiñe • Bosque de Oma • Valle de Oma • Bolunzulo • Lezika 91
14 Urigoiti • Ojo de Axular • Itxina • Supelegor cave • Urigoiti 93
15 Lendoño Goitia • La Piedra del Cojo • Senda Negra • La Barrerilla • Fuente de Iturrigorri • Tologorri • Lendoño Goitia 96
16 Lalastra • Ribera • Desfiladero del Río Purón • Herrán • Campas de Santa Ana • Ribera • Lalastra 98
17 Okina • Río Ayuda • Barranco de Arrola • Saseta • Río Ayuda • Okina 100
18 Nuestra Señora de Okón (Bernedo) • Bonete de San Tirso • Ermita de San Tirso • La Ruta de los Caleros y la Carbonera • Nuestra Señora de Okón 102
19 Santuario de Kodes • Gendarmes • La Llana • Ioar • La Llana • Santuario de Kodes 104
20 Antoñana • Korres gorge • Korres village • Soila • Antoñana 106
21 Baquedano • Río Urederra • waterfalls • Balcón de Pilatos • Baquedano 108
22 Casa Forestal de Aralar (Guardetxe) • Pagomari • Errenaga • Igaratza • Trikuarriko Lepoa • Irumugarrieta • Trikuarriko Lepoa • Unako Putzua • Urdangoene • Albia • Guardetxe 110
23 Monasterio de Leire • Cañada Real de los Roncaleses • La Cerrada • Castellar • El Rallar • Arangoiti • El Rallar • Monolito de Leire • Monasterio de Leire 113
24 Casas de Irati • Camino Viejo a Koixta • Embalse de Koixta • Camino Viejo a las Casas de Irati • Mirador de Akerrería •
Nuestra Señora de las Nieves • Casas de Irati 115
25 Fábrica de Armas de Orbaitzeta • Soroluze • Arnostegi • Urkuku • Soroluze • Azpegi • Fábrica de Armas de Orbaitzeta 117
26 Olhette • Larrungo Erreka • Trois Veaux • Larrun • Zizkuitz • Larrun Txiki • Venta Yasola • Deskargahandiko Lepoa • Olhette 119
27 Pas de Roland • Legarre • Amezketa • Pic du Mondarrain • Legarre • Itxassou • Pas de Roland 121
28 Arouchia • Harpeko Saindoa • Martikoena • Peñas de Itsusi • Beherekoetxea • Sumusako borda • Bernatenea • Arouchia 123
29 Urcuray/Urkoi • Iramalda • Ursuia • Iramalda •Urcuray/Urkoi 126
30 Logibar • Passarelle d’Holtzarte • Holtzarte Forest • Olhadübi Gorge • Olhadübi bridge • Plateau d’Ardakotxia • Logibar 128
31 Santa Grazi/Ste-Engrâce • Gorges d’Ehüjarre • Grottes de Molerse • Erraitz • Utzigaina • Bois d’Utzia • Santa Grazi/Ste-Engrâce 130
32 Col de la Pierre-St Martín • Col d’Arlas • Arlas • Col de
Pescamou • Arlas valley • Col de la Pierre-St Martín 132
Index 134
Fold-out map/transport timetables inside back cover
Adarra 64, 65, 65
Agina 18
Aiako Harriak 17, 43, 78, 79, 79
Ainhoa 44
Aita-Donostia 18
Aittola 14
Aitzkorri 73, 74, 75
Aizkolegi 80
Albia 34, 110
Albistur 13
Aldaola 72
Alkiza 66, 68-9
Anboto , 90
Antoñana 33, 106, 107
Arangoiti 37, 113, 112
Arantzazu 72, 74
Arbaiun, Foz de 38, 112, 114
Arette 49
Aribe 41, 117
Aritxulegi 18, 78, 79
Aritzakun, valley 123, 124-5
Arlas 132, 133
Armintza 25
Arouchia 123, 124-5
Arraba 60-1
Artea 26
Artikutza 7, 77, 77
Astigarraga, cider houses 20
Atxular Ate 93
Auritz/Burguete 41
Aurtitz 20, 84, 85
Ayuda, Río 100, 101
Azkua 80, 81
Azpegi, Col d’ 118, 119
Azpeitia 13
Balcón de Bizkaia 21
Balcón de Gipuzkoa 13
Balcón de Pilatos 33, 108, 109
Balcón de Rioja 32
Baltzola, caves 26, 27
Baquedano 108, 109
Bayonne/Baiona 10, 42
Baztán, valley 19
Bermeo 24
Bernedo 33, 102, 103
Bertsolariak 6
Besabi 64, 65
Beunde 72
Biarritz 5, 10, 42, 55
Bidarrai 45, 46
Bidouze, Source de la 51
Bilbao 5, 10, 21, 26, 86-7
Bolibar 22
Bosque Pintado, see Oma Butrón, Castillo de 25
Calzada romana (near Aldaola) 73, 74
Cambo-les-Bains 45
Castillo del Inglés 79
Chabola de la Hechicera 32
Contrasta 33
Corniche, La 43
Delika 28
Domaine d’Abbadie 43
Domiko, Canal 79, 79
Doneztebe/Santesteban 20
Donostia-San Sebastián 5, 10, 12, 17, 54, 62-3, 65
Durango 21
Duranguesado Massif 21, 89
Ehüjarre, Gorges d’ 48, 130, 131
Elantxobe 23, 24
Elizondo 19, 82
Ermua 25
Ernialde 68-9
Ernio 13, 65, 66, 67, 68-9, 68-9
Erratzu 19, 82, 83
Errezil 13, 68-9
Escaróz 39
Eskas 76, 77
Espelette 44, 45
Eteneta 65
Etxalar 9, 18, 19, 20, 30, 80
Faido 31, 32
Faro de la Plata 62-3
Gallipienzo 37
Ganekogorta 86-7, 88
Gaztelu 13, 70
Gendarmes 104, 105, 105
Gernika 24
Getaria 15, 16
Goiuri/Gujuli 28
Gorbeia, Parke Naturala 26, 93, 94, 95
Gorliz 25
Gorostapalo 82, 83
Gotein 50
Grottes de Molerse 130
Guardetxe 34, 110
Guethary 42
Harpeko Saindoa 123, 124-5
Hendaye/Hendaia 43
Herrán 98, 99
Holtzarte 48, 128-9, 129
Ibañeta, Col de 41
Igaratza, chapel and refuge 110, 111
Igeldo 15
Iñarbegi, valley and dolmen 83
Ioar 104, 105
Iramalda, ridge and col 126, 127
Iratí, Casas de 115, 116, 116
Iratí, river 38, 39, 41, 115, 116
Iratí, Selva de 41, 47, 115, 116
Iraty, Chalets de and Lacs d’ 48
Iribas 35
Irumugarrieta 110, 111, 112
Iruña-Pamplona 5, 10, 35, 36
Itxassou 45, 121
Itxina 26, 93
Izki, Parke Naturala 106, 107, 107
Javier, Castillo de 37
Kakueta, Gorge de 48, 49
Kanpezu 33
Karraspio 22
Kodes, Santuario de and Sierra de 104, 105
Koixta, reservoir 115, 116
Korres 106, 107, 107
Kortezubi 24, 91
Kripan 32
Laga; Playa de 24
Laguardia 1, 32
Laida, Playa de 24
Lalastra 26, 98, 99
Larra 132, 133
Larraitz 13, 70
Larrau 48
Larrun 61, 119, 120
Lastur 14, 15
Leire, Monasterio de 37, 112, 113, 114
Lekanda 93, 94, 95
Lekeitio 22
Lendoño Goitia 96, 97
Lesaka 18
Lezika 91
Logibar 48, 128, 129
Lumbier, Foz de 38, 39
Madeleine, La 50
Mauléon 50
Mendaur, mountain and reservoir 20, 84, 85, 85
Mendoza 30
Mondarrain 121, 122, 122, 127
Montaña Alavesa 31, 100, 101, 106, 107
Monte Santiago 29
Mougerre 46
Mundaka 24
Munitibar 21
Muskilda, Santuario de 40
Ochagavía 39, 48, 115
Ogoño 23
Oiartzun 17, 76, 78
Okina 100, 101, 101
Olhadübi 128, 129
Olhettte 44, 119
Olite 36, 37
Oma, valley and painted forest 24, 91, 92
Ondarroa 21, 22
Orbaitzeta 41, 117, 118
Orduña 28, 30, 96
Orio 15
Ordizia 13
Orozko 26
Orreaga/Roncesvalles 41
Otsondo, pass 19
Otzaurte 72
Pagasarri 86-7
Pagomakurre 93
Pas de Roland 45, 121, 122, 122
Pasai Donibane 62-3, 63, 65
Pasai San Pedro 62-3, 65
Peñacerrada 31, 33
Peñas de Itsusi 123, 124-5, 124-5
Pic d’Anie 131, 133
Pierre St Martin, col and ski resort 49, 133
Población, La 32, 34
Ratón de San Antón 15, 16
Rioja Alavesa 11, 32
Ribera 28, 98, 99
St Jean-de-Luz/Donibane Lohizun 10, 43
St Jean-Pied-de-Port/Donibane Garazi 10, 41, 47, 50-1, cover
Salinas de Añana 29, 39
Salto del Nervión 28, 29, 30
San Adrián, tunnel and refuge 73, 74
San Antón, Embalse de 17, 18, 78, 79
San Ignacio de Loyola, basilica 13
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe 24
San Miguel de Aralar 12, 34
San Pedro de Atxarre 23
San Prudentzio 16
San Tirso, monolith and cave-chapel 103, 103
Sangüesa 37
Santa Clara, island 12
Santa Colomba, Foz de 40, 41
Santa Grazi/Ste-Engrâce 48, 130
Santimamiñe, cave 24, 91
Sara 43, 44
Sara, caves 19, 43,
Saseta 100, 101
Segura 75
Senda Negra 96, 97
Señorío de Bertíz, gardens 19, 80
Sierra de Aralar 11, 12, 34, 70, 71, 100, 101
Sierra de Toloño-Cantabria 11, 32, 103, 106, 107
Sierra de Urbasa 11, 33, 108, 109, 109
Soila 106, 107, 107
Soudet, col de 49
Supelegor 93
Tapla 115
Tologorri 96, 97
Txakoli 16
Txindoki 13, 56, 70, 71, 111
Ujúe 37, 38
Ulia 62-3
Urbia, refuge 74
Urcuray/Urkoi 46, 126, 127
Urdaibai, estuary 21,23, 24
Urederra, Nacedero del 108, 109, 109
Urgull 12
Urigoiti 26
Urkiola, Santuario de and Parke
Naturala 89, 90
Urkiolagirre 89
Urkulu 117, 118, 118
Ursuia 126, 127
Uzpuru, Collado de 76
Valderejo, Parke Naturala 29, 98, 99
Varonas, Torre-Palacio 29
Venta Yasola 119, 120
Villados 30
Vitoria-Gasteiz 5, 10, 30, 310
Xorroxin 82, 83
Zandueta 41
Zarautz 15
Zelatun 67, 68-9
Zenarruza, Colegiata de 22
Zubieta 20
Zugarramurdi 18, 20, 19, 44
Zumaia 7, 15
Basque Country, 3rd edition, 2016 (updated 3/10/2017)
Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in the Basque Country given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.
General: The Basque “fronton”: In response to a comment made about the absence of an explanation about the word frontón, which appears in many of the walk descriptions in the book, I would like to clarify that this refers to the traditional pelota court found in every town and village throughout the Basque Country. In the USA, the sport pelota it is referred to as jai alai (literally meaning “happy fiesta” in Basque), and is played everywhere around the world where Basques have traditionally emigrated and settled (Florida, Oklahoma, Idaho and Nevada in particular in the USA, throughout South America and the Philippines, for instance). It is something like a Basque version of outdoor squash and can be played as singles or doubles. The frontón is one of the most iconic images of the Basque provinces and I would highly recommend seeing a match to anyone visiting the region – it is a very fast game and huge bets are sometimes placed on big matches. (Author, 10/17)
Walk 2: At Besabi there is a very new (possibly only this season) plinth with 3 information boards, opposite the Bar/Restaurant. There are also a number of very new finger post signs erected at all of the footpath junctions we came across, detailing both long distance and local paths… We found the time allowed to Menhir de Etemeta (1 hour and 5 minutes) a little over ambitious. Without breaks we took 1 hour and 20 minutes and the new finger post gave a time of 1 hour and 25 minutes… We failed to find the return route from the summit and found that we had followed the black dotted route, as shown on the map, which returns you to a junction marked by a finger post. In our opinion, since the new sign posts have been erected walkers are now following those routes and thus the paths are very defined. (User, 9/17)
Walk 21: Please note that at peak times (summer every day and weekends throughout the year) it is now necessary to book a time to visit the Urederra nature reserve through the website http://www.nacederourederra.com/. This is intended to control visitor numbers (limited now to 450 a day) so as to keep the area pristine, and the policy seems to be working. Click on “reservar entradas” on the left side of the home page and then click where it says “pincha aqui para hacer tu reserva”. Then you can choose the English language option at the top of the page that appears with dates. Simply click on the date and complete a short form with personal details and you will be sent a confirmation reference number by email shortly afterwards which you need to show on arrival at the car park entrance in Baquedano village, where you will be given a sticker to authorise you to enter. Visitors must arrive by 12:00 noon or the booking will be cancelled and given to someone else. This procedure should not put anyone off visiting as the walk is delightful! (Author, 10/17)
Walk 26: This was the first attempt at a walk on our visit but we could not find the start as we did not know what a fronton was. We had read all the information in the book about the Basque country (but not the car tours and individual walks) and found no definition of a fronton. It is actually a bell shaped wall as part of a court used for playing a local game, pelota. This fronton is actually outside of the main development of the village. (User, 9/17)
Walk 25: The “unsurfaced” road is actually smooth concrete sections from the old church to a cattle grid and then tarmac, which is in superb condition, up to and beyond the Col d’Azpegi. There would be no problem in driving it and parking at the Refuge… The track to follow at the 2 hour 40 minute point was unclear, but a scramble up to the road and a left turn led to the cromlech and information boards. (User, 9/17)
Short walk for motorists 16: The instructions say to re-enter the forest on the SL.NA65. There was no finger post at this point but a new plastic topped red/white/green marker indicated the path. (User, 9/17)
GPS files for use with the Basque Country guidebook:
Download GPS files for the Basque Country.
iPhone users need a free or paid app to open the zip file and see the files stored inside it. There are a variety of apps that can open zip files on the iPhone, but Zip Viewer is one of the easiest to use – and it is free.
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