Walking & Eating around Nice
£7.00
12 walks, 2 excursions and recommended restaurants
by John & Pat Underwood
A guidebook to walking and eating in and around Nice in southern France, featuring 12 walks and two excursions – one on the famous Chemin de Fer de Provence narrow gauge railway and the other by bus.
Besides Nice itself, the book describes walks and excursions in the most beautiful coastal and inland areas easily reached by public transport – from the Esterel in the west to Cap Martin in the east and from the coast north to the Alps.
All walks are mapped in detail and include restaurant suggestions and recipes.
We also feature a plan of Nice, information on markets and regional produce for those who are self-catering – as well as free downloadable GPS tracks.
When to go: The best months for walking in Nice and the Côte d’Azur are from mid-September until early June – high summer is far too hot.
★★★★★ amazon review ‘An essential guide covering some of the walking routes in the more extensive Sunflower Eastern Provence Landscape guide, but with the addition of restaurant tips for each of the walks covered plus favourite recipes of the authors, representative of the region. The guide is especially useful for a short stay in or around Nice and although we had hired a car, if you are staying in Nice itself there is no need to do so as the purpose of the guide is to provide walking routes which are easily accessible by public transport. As such it is handier to use than the Landscapes guide for a stay in Nice itself. The walks we did were stunning. Can thoroughly recommend – buy it!‘ Andrew Pleass
Printed book: £8.99 / PDF ebook: £7.00
This pocket-sized full-colour guide to walking in Nice and the Côte d’Azur is designed for short-break walking holidays using the excellent public transport services.
Nice is easily and inexpensively reached by several budget airlines, and the climate makes for brilliant walking and excursions all year round.
Even ‘non-walkers’ will appreciate the large-scale plan of Nice centre, descriptions of the sights, and recommendations for restaurants in Nice and places like Cap Ferrat, La Turbie, Menton, Théoule-sur-Mer.
For each suggested restaurant there is a photograph of the décor and one of their dishes, sample menu, price guide, opening times, and a recipe for one of their specialities.
Other sections include: planning your trip, logistics on arrival, local markets and specialities, a glossary of local food terms, and a restaurant mini-vocabulary.
A special feature is an emphasis on natural local foods suitable for those with food intolerances.
All recipes have been made by the authors and are known to ‘work’.
Just discovered this gem of a book while on holiday in Cote d’Azur — this book was a revelation — it provided just what we wanted: walking routes around some of the most attractive coastal and inland locations near Nice. On top it gave some great tips about restaurants along these routes… Walk/Eat is a niche book; great format, easy to use, light to carry on walk, usable maps.! (CG, Amazon)
Sunflower has led the field for years with their brilliant Landscapes walking and car touring guides. Now they have raised their game even higher with a superb new Walk & Eat series. (Frank Barrett, Mail on Sunday)
Your choice of where to look for accommodation will be governed by several factors. For instance, if you intend to hire a car you will benefit from a much wider choice. On the other hand if you plan to rely on public transport, you will need to choose a centre offering good access to the walk routes or excursions you plan to do. There is also the factor of what type of accommodation you plan to use, for example whether you plan to stay in a hotel or in a self-catering apartment or villa. The author provides useful advice on the various options in the Where to Stay chapter which will be found in the introductory pages of the book.
12 walks and 2 fairly long excursions — one by train and one by bus, with walks from each
144 pages + plan of Nice; area map; 1:35,000 topo maps for the countryside walks
6th ed, 2020; ISBN 978-1-85691-532-8; UK retail price £8.99 / USA retail price $15.00
Table of contents:
PLAN OF CENTRAL NICE inside front cover
INTRODUCTION 4
the walks 5
the excursions 5
the restaurants 6
the recipes 6
planning your visit 7
when to go 7
where to stay 8
what to take 8
planning your walks 10
verifying timetables in advance 12
on arrival 15
city bus pass 15
tourist information 15
shopping for self-catering 16
markets 17
Walk 1 · on the rooftops of nice 20
restaurants: café de turin and rené socca in nice 26
recipes: socca and petits farcis (stuffed vegetables) 30
Walk 2 · mont chauve d’aspremont 32
restaurant: hostellerie d’aspremont 39
recipe: roast leg of lamb with juniper, garlic and rosemary 41
Walk 3 · peillon and peille 42
restaurant: auberge de la madone in peillon 48
recipe: christmas-day pheasant (in brandy cream sauce) 49
Walk 4 · around cap ferrat 50
restaurants: various around cap ferrat, le pot d’étain in nice 55
recipes: cassoulet, potato cake, chocolate cake 58
Walk 5 · to the esterel 62
restaurants: various in théoule, la mère besson in cannes 66
recipes: chicken with tarragon and cream, bourride (fish stew) 67
Walk 6 · la turbie and èze 70
restaurants: various in la turbie and èze 76
recipe: caramelized rabbit with lemon 78
Walk 7 · ste-agnès and castellar 80
restaurants: various in ste-agnès, monti, castellar, menton 85
recipe: menton lemon tarte 87
Walk 8 · cap martin 88
restaurants: roquebrune, le canne à sucre in nice 91
recipes: turbot or halibut, in wine or à la provençale 92
EXCURSION 1 · train des pignes 94
MAP OF THE NICE HINTERLAND 96
restaurants: various in entrevaux and annot 101
recipe: daube à la provençale (beef stew in red wine) 102
restaurant: caffé promenade in nice 103
Walk 9 · above puget-théniers 104
restaurants: various in puget-théniers 108
recipe: lamb stew with chestnuts 109
Walk 10 · grès d’annot 110
recipe: osso bucco nice-style 115
EXCURSION 2 · gorges du cians 116
Walk 11 · above beuil 120
restaurants: various in beuil 125
recipes: various chestnut recipes, blettes (chard) à la provençale 126
Walk 12 · cime de l’arpiha 128
restaurant: les trois vallées at the col de turini 132
recipe: venison steaks with blackberry sauce 133
EAT GF, DF 134
eating in restaurants 135
self-catering 136
gf, df shopping 137
gf, df cooking; conversion tables 138
GLOSSARY (menu items, shopping terms) 140
INDEX 143
IN the restaurant (pocket vocabulary) inside back cover
The following is the index of places; the book also contains an index of recipes (which is not shown here). Page numbers shown in bold are where photographs appear; those shown in italics are where maps appear.
Annot 96-97, 99, 110, 111, 112, 113
Grès d’Annot 110, 111, 112, 113
Aspremont 33, 34, 35, 38
Authion, L’ 128
Balcons de la Côte d’Azur 34, 63, 64-5, 65, 83
Beuil 116, 118, 120, 121, 122, 123
Cannes 63
Cap Ferrat 50, 52, 53, 55
Cap Martin 88, 89, 90
Castellar 80, 82, 83, 84
Cians Gorge 96-97, 99, 116, 117, 118, 119
Cime d’Arpiha 129, 131
Colline du Château, Nice 22, 23
Daluis Gorge 96-97, 99
Digne 96-97, 100
Entrevaux 96-97, 98, 99
Esterel, L’ 62, 64-65
Eze Village 70, 71, 72-73, 75
Eze-Bord-de-Mer 72-73
Grande Corniche 72-73
Menton 86, 88
Monaco 75
Mont Alban 21, 22, 23, 24
Mont Boron 21, 23, 24
Mont Chauve d’Aspremont 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38
Monti 83
Nice 9, 14, 20, 23, 27, 95
city plan inside front cover
map of hinterland 96-97
Peille 42, 44, 45, 46
Peillon 42, 43, 44, 48
Pointe de l’Aiguille 64-65
Pointe de St-Hospice 51, 52, 53
Puget-Théniers 94, 96-97, 99, 104, 105, 106, 107
Roquebrune-Cap-Martin 89, 90
Scaffarels, Les 113
St-Agnès 80, 81, 83
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat 51, 53, 54
Théoule-sur-Mer 63, 64-65, 66
Train des Pignes (Nice/Digne) 94, 95, 96-97
Trophée des Alpes 71, 72-73, 74
Turbie, La 71, 72-73, 74, 76, 77
Turini, Col de 129, 130, 131
Var River 32, 35, 96-97, 99, 118
NICE, 6th edition (2020); updated 23/01/2025
Updates for walks and car tours (drives) given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.
Walk 4: A section of the west side has collapsed and has been closed for the past two years. So you either have to retrace your steps, or return to St-Jean along the M125, which gives you a good chance to see how the 1% live… (User, 1/25)
GPS files for use with Walk & Eat Nice:
Download GPS files for Walk & Eat Nice
iPhone users need a free or paid app to open the zip file and see the files stored inside it. There are a variety of apps that can open zip files on the iPhone, but Zip Viewer is one of the easiest to use – and it is free.
Related products
