Walking in Southern Cyprus

Cyprus, 9th Edition (2023), updated 12/11/2024

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Cyprus given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have the 5th or an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested.

Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you.

Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

NB: THIS BOOK COVERS SOUTHERN CYPRUS ONLY; for north Cyprus see ‘Walk & Eat North Cyprus‘.

Walk 11: The path down to the monastery was wide at the beginning but became narrower and started to zig zag downhill. We eventually arrived at the water tank and car park. A good walk but marred by quantities of dumped rubbish on the path on Melissovounos. (User 2/23)

We could not find the 90˚ left turn 800m after waypoint 3. There had been a forest fire from this area down towards the monastery and it appeared that bulldozers had created a new access to fight the fire, presumably obliterating the previous tracks. The rubbish on the way up from the monastery – as mentioned by another reader – was appalling. We certainly would not recommend this walk. (Users, 10/23)

It was a very enjoyable walk until we were on our way down and at the 90˚ left point, we tried all the tracks branching off from here, including the one signed as a no through road. We couldn’t find a way to get back down to the Monastery, even though we could at one point see it below us. It would appear that since the forest fire the route has been obliterated from this point and not re-instated. We had to climb back up to Koili and go back the way we came. We wondered whether some other route could be devised as it was a really good walk and worth climbing up to the Masts on Melissovounos. Next year we are going to go again and explore to see if there are any further tracks in this area. The cakes at the cafe near the monastery are delicious. (User, 11/24) [Sunflower: this is a satellite photo from Google Earth dated August 2024 – so just two months ago. It clearly shows the 90° left turn of the track, the path on the right to ignore at that point, and then the track turning right and descending. If you enlarge the picture by clicking on it you can even see the path zigzagging down to the monastery. It is hard to understand where this user went wrong.]

Walk 13: We saw no gate (5) on the right or a fence on the right and found no zig zag path through orange trees.  We eventually came to the end of the track and could see the overflow channel coming from the dam.  We had obviously gone too far so walked back quite a way and found a track now on our right winding down to the bottom of the valley through banana groves. We followed it along walking away from the dam. There was no junction facing a shed at (6). The track  finally brought us out on the metalled service rd where we turned sharp right uphill (7). (User, 2/23)

(Sunflower) The gate at waypoint 5 and the fence are gone. Users are missing the path ‘though orange trees’ – probably because it is now though banana groves! Do not miss waypoint 4: the track off to the right. You can check that it is the correct track: it makes a tight hairpin turn to the left and runs parallel with the main track, but a bit above it. The path though the banana groves is on the left, no more than 100m past this track off right.

The path zig zags down into the valley, passing a small corrugated metal shed to reach a tarmac road. This is much more substantial than would be expected for a “rough metalled service road” to the dam. (User, 3/23)

At the 50min point, the guide says to ignore a track to the right. At this point there was a T-junction with the track and the watercourse turning 90˚ right. We turned left, downhill into a banana plantation. There was no gate, no fence, no citrus grove and no tin shed and we could not find a way to access the road. We retraced our steps and followed the original track and watercourse but this ended at an overflow for the dam. Having given up, we returned the way we came but, from above, it did appear possible to access the road by heading to the far side of the valley and heading south-west away from a ruined chimney. (User, 10/23)

(Sunflower) It appears that these users above did not refer to the previous update of 3/23, but they seem too have turned left at the correct point and we really don’t know how they missed the way. Pity they weren’t using GPS tracks, but we must do better maps for the 10th edition. Here is a picture of this section from Google Earth:

Walk 17: One area that we sometimes find difficult to judge while planning and before setting out to drive to a walk is whether we can drive to the start (or how close we can get) using a hire car which stipulates ‘No Off-road usage’. We are nervous about going along gravel/dirt roads even if they are ‘smooth’. But it is ok to get all the way to Kato Arkhimandrita in a hire car. The road is single track but concrete or tarmac all the way. (User, 11/23)

Walk 20: Google could not identify CTO Restaurant neither was it apparent at the Baths. Parking is available opposite the Aphrodite Baths Restaurant. To access the start point of the trail, go through the gate to the Baths and Botanical gardens and bear right. The first sign is shortly after passing the Baths. (User, 10/23)

[Sunflower: The Baths restaurant is run by the CTO; we will make that clear in the new edition.]

Walk 21: One area that we sometimes find difficult to judge while planning and before setting out to drive to a walk is whether we can drive to the start (or how close we can get) using a hire car which stipulates ‘No Off-road usage’. We are nervous about going along gravel / dirt roads even if they are ‘smooth’. The road to Agios Minas is perfectly ok in a hire car – in fact, we followed a coach up to the church.  The stretch from there to the picnic site is very rough – but it is only 10 minutes walk (at the most).

Being able to drive up to Agios Minas meant we cut cut out 80 minutes ‘boring’ walking – which meant we could do a much longer circular walk including Adonis trail and Pissourmomouti Peak (highly recommended).  PS The notice at the bottom of the ‘peak’ suggests 90 minutes to 2 hours – but your 1 hour  is just about right. (User, 11/23)

Walk 22a: The route to and from the waterfall is now a one-way system. The exit is signposted to the opposite side of the valley and rejoins the track to the waterfalls above the upper waterfall.

Walk 22b: There is no sign to Odos Karis but the route is straight ahead with the open air theatre below and to the right. Similarly, there is no E4 arrow at the left turn although there is one on the left higher up the track as it rises below the fire station. (User, 10/23)

The following are suggestions for new routes, not corrections to the current edition:

New walk: Vaouni Panagias Trail (9.8km) European Long distance trial path E4 – on page 23 in the handbook from the CTO . We found an excellent new circular route of reasonable length which was on the whole very well sign posted. Little risk of getting lost. Starting point is opposite the cultural centre near the church in Pano Panagia village. Take a steep concrete road which climbs steeply up the hillside before turning to the right when the road starts to level off after 20mins or so (turn off is sign posted, although sign is pointing between the road and the turn off). Follow a well sign posted stony route which is narrower (4x4s use it) which winds up and around the hillside until it passes below the partially completed Vouni fire lookout station (small detour). Follow the well signed posted level track which passes through vineyards with south east views to the Troodos, before gradually turning and descending to come down the other side of the mountain. Choice of two tracks one to Panagia Chrysorrogiatissa monastery. This passes through countryside before ending rather unsatisfactorily at the concrete turn onto a main road. Turn right along road and reach the monastery which is visible and then follow the road into Pano Panagia village. The alternative choice leads directly to Pano Panagia village which we did not do. (User, 5/11)

Additional “short” walk: Before or after visiting Ayios Yeoyios (north of Coral Bay) it is possible to explore the Aspros Gorge. Take the turning off the Ayios Yeoyios road at Namos Snack Bar (see map page 78). Park at the end of the tarmac on the right or on a little and up left. The track can be followed across the gorge (on an old or new bridge) and onwards, or before crossing the gorge an indistinct path goes up at the end of a dry stone wall and left enabling exploration along the top of the gorge past some farms. (User, 4/12)

From a user in January 2017: We thought others might benefit from some less muddy walks, especially with the recent weather there. We couldn’t do either of the Aphrodonis trails and even the Smigies was a bit slippy. Although we had rain every day we were lucky we didn’t get too wet. We hear they’ve closed off roads to Troodos due to snow. Below are some ideas:

Variation for walk 22 Kritou Tera. Cataracts and Waterfalls. We wanted a walk that was not too muddy, this one we found is mostly on concrete. We found it best to access it from the opposite direction to Kritou Tera as, although we went through the village a number of times in the car, we often took the wrong turning. Access: From the B7 Paphos to Polis road heading north take the road on the left just after the sign to Akourdaleia, signposted Agia Ekaterina (mentioned on p97, but no longer a ruin). Drive up the winding road past the monastery (the road swings right here) and continue on until just past a left hand bend there is a sign on the right to the waterfalls. There is space just before the sign to park off the road without obstructing any fields, although you may have to turn round as you will probably have already passed the sign.

Take the very steep concrete track down the side of the valley, crossing to the other side and following the signposts. Ignore a track coming in from the left and after a little while you will reach a fork signposted left (straight on) to the waterfall and right to the cataracts.

Choose the right turn and drop very steeply to the river where there is a shady picnic area. There is a monopatia signposted Tis & Yis to the left of the bridge but in December it looked rather overgrown and muddy so we didn’t explore it. To the left of the picnic area is a wide earthen track which again we did not explore but it looked promising, if muddy at the time.

After admiring the pools retrace your steps past the remains of a water mill up to the fork and then take the road to the right signposted waterfall. To our disappointment we discovered that this is just a viewpoint as the waterfall cannot be reached from this side of the valley. However on the other side of the river to the left we could see steps with a handrail going down into the gorge, hence our suggestion that someone needs to explore the monopatia and the wide track from the picnic site.

The concrete road ends at the waterfall sign but the earth track goes round the hillside following the contours. Keep straight ahead and the track eventually returns to concrete and starts to wind its way up the hill towards Kritou Tera. Tera can be seen in the distance and the road between the two villages comes into view. You are walking between fields here.

Pass a sign pointing left to the waterfall which could be a shortcut (we suspect if you follow this you will end up back at the first track that came in to your left and have to climb back up to the car). Then when you come to a T junction cross the road and look behind you to see a sign to the waterfall facing you on the right hand wall pointing back the way you have come (a good sign you haven’t got lost). You need to turn left here, up towards Kritou Tera. More houses appear as you approach the village and pass the metal grating and small chapel mentioned at the beginning of walk 22 but going in the opposite direction. After exploring the village (which appears to be closed in winter) follow the signs to the left by the church to the museum and Agia Ekaterina.

Head out of the village on the tarmac road, past new villas and crumbling ones, going downhill and crossing to the other side of the valley until you reach the car.

Of course you could do this the other way round or park in Kritou Tera although both of these options end with a climb!

Picnic walk. To Agios Savvas from F616 – 2.5km each way
Access: Between Agios Georgios and Prastio heading from Asprokremmos Dam towards Mandria there is a small sign to Agios Savvas Monastery which is on the eastern side of the valley. There are two tracks here, the right hand one appears to be part of the old road so you can park here or go down the main concrete road a little and park there.

Follow the concrete road downhill as it winds a little to the left then crosses over the Diarizos river. You will see the chapel of Agios Mammas to your right but keep straight on at the crossroads just after the river crossing as there is no access to the chapel from the right hand path.

The road swings up behind the chapel, which is small but worth a visit and with good views down the valley. Continue along the road which now winds its way up into the hills. Stay on the main track which for a time becomes earthen. As you approach the monastery the road surface improves and splits in two, the right track goes up to the monastery. The buildings are ruined but the church is intact. Use the door opposite the large tree to access the church and use the tree trunk seat to enjoy your picnic. The other track continues towards the F612 between Mousere and Pano Archimandrita if you want to continue exploring. (User, 1/17)