An adventure in the Bernese Oberland & Valais
The Bernese Oberland and Valais regions of Switzerland offer dramatic Alpine scenery, charming villages, and a wealth of walking trails.
Our guidebook to walking in the Bernese Oberland & Valais gives you an introduction to the best walks in each of these popular regions.
Below we have described some of our favourite walks:
First, Faulhorn and Schynige Platte (Walk 1)
This walk is a classic in the Bernese Oberland, and rightfully so. Legion are the hikers who cross from First to Schynige Platte (or vice versa) – among some of the most splendid scenery in the Alps.
This high traverse runs entirely above the tree line, so pay attention to the weather forecast when you choose your day!
Eigertrail (Walk 3)
The Eiger north face of the ‘triumvirate’ Eiger (3970m), Mönch (4107m) and Jungfrau (4158m) is one of the world’s most famous walls.
No rock face has more recorded history of tragedy and triumph. The walk described below is among the finest in the Alps.
Undertaking the entire hike is strenuous, although not particularly difficult. But it can easily be broken into various stretches that allow the epicure to savour one of the greatest Alpine experiences at a leisurely pace.
Schilthorn (Walk 5)
Schilthorn rose to world fame as the film location for the James Bond film ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’. A 10-minute clip from the film can be seen at the revolving restaurant on top of Schilthorn.
But even without 007, Schilthorn is a mountain not to be missed. The 360° view from the summit is among the most fabulous in the Alps.
The restaurant at the top goes through one revolution per hour, allowing you to watch 200 mountain peaks pass by while you relax from the ascent. Only a few hardy hikers walk up here from Mürren, but naturally throngs come up by cable car.
Great St-Bernard Pass (Walk 7)
The Great St-Bernard Pass (2469m; Col du Grand St Bernard in French, Colle del Gran San Bernardo in Italian) connects Switzerland and Italy.
It’s the most ancient pass through the Western Alps, travelled by pilgrims, traders and entire armies – from Julius Caesar to Napoleon, who crossed the pass into Italy in 1800 with 40,000 men.
Napoleon’s bill with the hospice was not settled until 1984! At this time French President Mitterand made a token gesture (see plaque in Bourg-St-Pierre).
A hospice on the pass for travellers, founded almost a thousand years ago in 1049, is still operational. There is a museum and a kennel for the famous St-Bernard dogs (open daily June-September).
This is a fantastic hike above the treeline: lakes and mountain passes amidst majestic scenery in an historic setting.
Grande Dixence Dam (Walk 10)
Driving up the Val d’Hérémence, you suddenly see an immense structure at the head of the valley – the Barrage de la Grande Dixence.
The Grande Dixence is one of the world’s highest dams. From its base you stare up at this 285m-high (1000ft-high!) wall of concrete in disbelief.
If you do the longer walk to the top of Mont Blava, the view from the peak lets you take in the true dimensions of the Lac des Dix, the artificial lake held back by the dam, set amidst delightful Alpine scenery.
Höhbalmen Ridge Path (Walk 13)
Matterhorn – magical, mysterious, miraculous, marvellous, magnificent, moving.
The Höhbalmen ridge path is a classic walk with breath-taking views over the whole of the Zermatt Valley. From the Mischabel range as far as the Monte Rosa and Breithorn massifs, with the famous Matterhorn north face staring you straight in the face.
As on the north face of the Eiger, fame and tragedy go hand-in-hand on the Matterhorn.
One of Zermatt’s mountain guides became a celebrity: Ulrich Inderbinen (1900-2004), who was still climbing the Matterhorn at the age of 90. His grave is in Zermatt’s cemetery.
Gornergrat Traverse (Walk 14)
Gornergrat is Zermatt’s most popular destination. It’s one of the most famous, awe-inspiring and humbling vistas in the Alps – if not the world.
About two-thirds of Swiss mountains above 4000m are almost within reach – from the gigantic icy masses of the Monte Rosa massif just opposite in the south or the Matterhorn to the west.
Aletsch Glacier and Eggishorn (Walk 19)
The Aletsch Glacier is the largest glacier in the Alps. It covers about 120km sq km, is more than 20km long and has an ice cover more than 900m deep.
The Jungfrau/Aletsch/Bietschhorn UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site is (to quote UNESCO) ‘the most glaciated part of the Alps, containing Europe’s largest glacier and a range of classic glacial features such as U-shaped valleys, cirques, horn peaks and moraines’.
The best time for walking in the Bernese Oberland & Valais
The best time to walk in the Bernese Oberland and Valais is during the summer months, from June to September.
The weather is mild and dry, with long days and plenty of sunshine. However, even in the shoulder seasons of May and October, the weather can be pleasant, and there are fewer crowds.
Getting around the region
The Bernese Oberland and Valais have an excellent public transport system, making it easy to explore without a car. Trains, buses, and cable cars connect all the major towns and villages.
Of course, a car offers more flexibility and allows you to explore more remote areas. However, parking can be challenging, especially in popular tourist destinations.
Driving in the mountains can also be tiring, with narrow roads and hairpin bends.
With our guidebook to walking in the Bernese Oberland & Valais you’ll have an unforgettable experience. The stunning scenery, charming villages and diverse walking trails offer something for every type of walker.
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