Walking in Croatia - Sunflower Books

Discover Croatia’s hidden gems on foot

Croatia, a stunning country with a diverse landscape, offers a plethora of opportunities for walkers. From the rugged mountains of the Dinaric Alps to the picturesque islands of the Adriatic Sea, there’s something for everyone.

Our guidebook to walking in Croatia is your perfect companion.

The walks in our guide are split into the following areas:

• Elaphiti Islands (Lokrum, Koločep, Lopud and Mljet)
• Adriatic Coast
• Brač
• Hvar
• Paklenica National Park
• Kvarner Gulf
• Rab
• Krk
• Lošinj
• Cres

Described below is a walk in each of these areas.

Highlights of Lopud from Uvala Lopud – Walk 3

Lopud’s historical heritage is the focus of a network of paths and trails linking some of its many churches and chapels (there were 30 in 1700), a fort built in 1653, together with the rugged west coast.

There are signs along Uvala Lopud seafront and inland at many, but not all significant junctions en route to the selected features. However the ‘Walking Track’ signs lack destinations!

A further complication is that vegetation grows, and densely without regular clearing. Nevertheless, do not be deterred.

With these notes you should not run out of a clear path, nor encounter a jungle. Around the harbour, several bars and restaurants help to make the island an ideal destination for a day out from Dubrovnik, preferably an overnight stay, to really savour its peacefulness after the last ferry has sailed.

Makarska to Baška Voda – Walk 8

For a popular, well-developed area, the Makarska Riviera, northwards from the town, offers walks through remarkably secluded woodland and along the coast, interspersed with harbours, quiet coves, waterside cafés and bars.

Views of the Biokovo mountains, the islands, and locally along the indented rocky shore are a constant delight. To continue this walk northwestwards, see Walk 9.

Vidova Gora summit from Bol, on Brač – Walk 13

At 780m (2558ft), Vidova Gora is the highest peak in the Adriatic islands. It towers above the attractive, small town of Bol on Brač’s south coast, its huge grey limestone bluffs and cliffs seemingly inaccessible to walkers.

Yet a skilfully built path finds a way up a series of small valleys below its eastern ramparts, so well designed that steep stretches are rare.

A path to delight the senses, it passes through pine wood, and its lower reaches are lined with aromatic, spring-flowering rosemary; it’s even well shaded on the whole.

The view from the top sweeps round from the Pelješac peninsula and Korčla in the south, past Vis and Hvar – where Sv Nikola is discernible – to take in the Biokovo range and Makarska to the north, and of course, Bol and Zlatni Rat beach below, one of Croatia’s many Blue Flag beaches.

Velo Grablje to Hvar Town, on Hvar – Walk 16

This is a walk marked by extraordinary contrasts, from Hvar’s high, breezy ridge, through old villages and olive groves, to rocky shores and shingle beaches.

The two villages, Velo and Malo Grablje, are living examples of changes that have been happening on Hvar for decades, especially away from the tourist-favoured coast.

Prolonged decline may, until recently, have been terminal, but now there are definite signs of renewal. The two parts of the walk, inland and coast, can be explored separately over two days, either by using the bus – or as out-and-back walks by car.

Velika Paklenica and Planinarski Dom Paklenica – Walk 19

The awesome walls and cliffs of Velika Paklenica are memorably impressive from the floor of the canyon where you feel positively dwarfed by their enormity.

Indeed, it seems miraculous that you can walk through with comparative ease. The wide trail is endowed with several information boards describing the outstanding ecological and cultural importance of the canyon and the park generally.

Bear in mind that Walk 21 offers the opportunity to fully appreciate the scale of the canyon and the surrounding peaks and ridges.

Lužinski Breg from Dobreć, in the Kvarner Gulf – Walk 23

This walk provides a not-too-strenuous introduction to the peaks, ridges and forests of Učka Nature Park, with the reward of panoramic views, especially of much of the coast covered by Walk 22, as well as Vojak (1396m), the highest peak on the entire Dinaric range.

Partly overgrown by the beautiful beech, oak and chestnut forests are the remains of the stone buildings and enclosures of former communities. Depressions and scattered rocky outcrops provide evidence of the local limestone (or karst) landscape.

At about the 1h20min mark, near the main route of the walk, is a memorial to a member of the local anti-fascist resistance force who died nearby during World War 2, a poignant reminder that the area was once much less peaceful.

Kamenjak summit from Rab Town harbour – Walk 28

The highest point on an island is an irresistible lure, especially when it’s only 408m high, as is Kamenjak on the island of Rab. But this is also an interesting walk in its own right.

You start at sea level and walk up through comparatively luxuriant vegetation and past cultivated fields at first, to reach the summit plateau – an utterly different world.

The seemingly barren, lunar landscape on the long ridge forming the island’s spine, dissected by a maze of stone walls, supports stunted thornbush, prickly juniper and incredibly nimble sheep.

The superb view embraces the Učka mountains southwest of Rijeka, the Velebit range to the east, and numerous islands to the south and west.

Obzova summit from Baška, on Krk – Walk 30

There’s much more to this walk than the ascent of the highest summit on the island, in this case Obzova (568m). Rather than being an independent peak, Obzova is the most elevated point on the long broad ridge enclosing Baška’s valley to the west.

The walk is also a classic exercise in contrasts, from the oak and pine woodland in the valley to the prickly bushes and wind-pruned pines on the plateau.

Here the typical karst limestone maze of dissected rock is so pronounced that the gracefully undulating landscape seems to be covered with a whitish glaze or icing.

In the myriad walled enclosures, few of which are still used as pasture or shelter, and deserted stone huts, it is all too easy to see a traditional land use in severe decline – walkers are far more numerous than farmers up here, enjoying this exhilarating, magnificently scenic outing.

Planinarski Dom Svete Gaudent from Osor, on Lošinj – Walk 35

The Osoršćica ridge is one of the highlights of walking throughout the Adriatic islands – high, open, and exceptionally scenic, with fine views north and westwards.

This walk introduces the ridge and provides the opportunity to visit a superbly sited mountain hut at the northern extremity of the ridge. Plan your visit so that you can enjoy suitable refreshments when you arrive; later, back in Osor, it’s well worth allowing some time to inspect the collection of bronze sculptures standing around the prominent 15th-century church of Svete Gaudenico.

With luck, the nearby archaeological museum, with a collection of Roman artefacts, might just be open.

Svete Salvatur and Gavza, on Cres – Walk 37

The cultivation of olives and the production of fine oils has a long and continuing history on Cres; indeed a bottle of the local extra virgin oil, dark golden-green, with an unusual flavour, is as good a memento of the island as you could wish.

This walk takes you through some of the extensive groves on the hillsides north of the town. On the outskirts you will pass a tall round tower, recently restored and open for inspection daily.

It dates from the 16th century when the ruling Venetians built a wall to enclose the town during their long ascendancy, almost unbroken from 1000 to 1797.

Three gates, a fragment of the wall and this tower are the sole surviving remnants of the fortification. The return from Svete Salvatur leads down to tiny Uvala Gavza and the start of the long shoreline promenade to Cres harbour, with many opportunities for a swim.

The best time of year for walking in Croatia

The best time to walk in Croatia is spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). The weather is pleasant, and the crowds are smaller.

However, summer (June-August) can also be a great time to visit, especially for those who enjoy swimming and sunbathing.

Getting around Croatia

Ferries travel between the islands and coastal towns and can often take cars as well as foot passengers.

Public buses connect most places and are cheap.

Renting a car is straightforward and gives you the most flexibility.

There are trains on the mainland, connecting Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik.

Croatia’s diverse landscape and rich cultural heritage make it a fantastic destination for walkers. Use our guidebook to walking in Croatia to get the very best out of your time in the country.